SO, GM customer service has contacted me about the steering shaft on the 06 5.3 ltr Silverado. They are will ing to pay for half of the claimed repair bill $390.xx dollars, My share of this repair would be approximately $190.xx dollars. Is this good ? this is the steering shaft problem on the 03-07 Silverados.. i dont know if im being taken for a ride, if this is a good deal, or what to think. Ive got replys stating this repair takes less than 30 minutes to complete and its a easy job. The GM customer service claims rep claims this newest part to be installed is far superior to the original. ? B.S ??? I NEED YOU GM AND TECH EXPERTS INPUT ON THIS.. AM I BEING GIVEN A GOOD DEAL OR TAKEN FOR A RIDE ?
New Problem : UPDATE
- Thread starter OtisBlkR1
- Start date
- Status
You are being taken for a ride if this is the intermediate shaft going thru the firewall.
The latest part number has been out for quite awhile and it is superior and cost under $100 with a 15-20 min install time.
Even if they add the bushing at the bottom of the steering column that sometimes breaks - that only adds a few bucks to the bill.
I just did my shaft on my 2006 and it took no time at all and the shaft was $70 with my GM discount. Rockauto has Dorman brand shafts with the same configuration for about $50.
The latest part number has been out for quite awhile and it is superior and cost under $100 with a 15-20 min install time.
Even if they add the bushing at the bottom of the steering column that sometimes breaks - that only adds a few bucks to the bill.
I just did my shaft on my 2006 and it took no time at all and the shaft was $70 with my GM discount. Rockauto has Dorman brand shafts with the same configuration for about $50.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
You are being taken for a ride if this is the intermediate shaft going thru the firewall.
The latest part number has been out for quite awhile and it is superior and cost under $100 with a 15-20 min install time.
Even if they add the bushing at the bottom of the steering column that sometimes breaks - that only adds a few bucks to the bill.
I just did my shaft on my 2006 and it took no time at all and the shaft was $70 with my GM discount. Rockauto has Dorman brand shafts with the same configuration for about $50.
So is this just extreme parts and labor markup ? or is the OEM replacement just that much more expensive than a parts store replacement ? also i DO NOT know if this is just the one shaft going through the firewall or if this is both shafts... I was on my way into work talking to them and simply ran out of time. I do know one way to look at this is if i have them use there parts and complete the work.. i will have a warranty. i guess i need more details.
You are being taken for a ride if this is the intermediate shaft going thru the firewall.
The latest part number has been out for quite awhile and it is superior and cost under $100 with a 15-20 min install time.
Even if they add the bushing at the bottom of the steering column that sometimes breaks - that only adds a few bucks to the bill.
I just did my shaft on my 2006 and it took no time at all and the shaft was $70 with my GM discount. Rockauto has Dorman brand shafts with the same configuration for about $50.
So is this just extreme parts and labor markup ? or is the OEM replacement just that much more expensive than a parts store replacement ? also i DO NOT know if this is just the one shaft going through the firewall or if this is both shafts... I was on my way into work talking to them and simply ran out of time. I do know one way to look at this is if i have them use there parts and complete the work.. i will have a warranty. i guess i need more details.
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
You are being taken for a ride if this is the intermediate shaft going thru the firewall.
The latest part number has been out for quite awhile and it is superior and cost under $100 with a 15-20 min install time.
Even if they add the bushing at the bottom of the steering column that sometimes breaks - that only adds a few bucks to the bill.
I just did my shaft on my 2006 and it took no time at all and the shaft was $70 with my GM discount. Rockauto has Dorman brand shafts with the same configuration for about $50.
So is this just extreme parts and labor markup ? or is the OEM replacement just that much more expensive than a parts store replacement ? also i DO NOT know if this is just the one shaft going through the firewall or if this is both shafts... I was on my way into work talking to them and simply ran out of time. I do know one way to look at this is if i have them use there parts and complete the work.. i will have a warranty. i guess i need more details.
Get all the facts and report back. The OEM part is still about $90 so given even an hour's labor and that's too high still. There must be more to this. If it is just the one shaft then buy the part yourself and install it or take it to a local shop for a few bucks.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
You are being taken for a ride if this is the intermediate shaft going thru the firewall.
The latest part number has been out for quite awhile and it is superior and cost under $100 with a 15-20 min install time.
Even if they add the bushing at the bottom of the steering column that sometimes breaks - that only adds a few bucks to the bill.
I just did my shaft on my 2006 and it took no time at all and the shaft was $70 with my GM discount. Rockauto has Dorman brand shafts with the same configuration for about $50.
So is this just extreme parts and labor markup ? or is the OEM replacement just that much more expensive than a parts store replacement ? also i DO NOT know if this is just the one shaft going through the firewall or if this is both shafts... I was on my way into work talking to them and simply ran out of time. I do know one way to look at this is if i have them use there parts and complete the work.. i will have a warranty. i guess i need more details.
Get all the facts and report back. The OEM part is still about $90 so given even an hour's labor and that's too high still. There must be more to this. If it is just the one shaft then buy the part yourself and install it or take it to a local shop for a few bucks.
Their half amount to zero $, in other words.
You pay all.
Try bringing up that this is a known problem . It is a known defect, not wear and tear.
You pay all.
Try bringing up that this is a known problem . It is a known defect, not wear and tear.
Are you currently having steering problems as a result of this shaft? If not, you have time to call their bluff. A courtesy recall is usually done at no charge to the customer. (Even BEYOND the expiration of the factory warranty.)If it is a safety recall, it should be paid 100% regardless of time or mileage. I would check the GM truck forums for any additional info. FWIW--Oldtommy
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Their half amount to zero $, in other words.
You pay all.
Try bringing up that this is a known problem . It is a known defect, not wear and tear.
Im sorry, i should have mentioned this is part #2 (second thread) of the New Problem Thread, I explained in the first thread what my trouble was and the swhole story up to this point. I will get more details or possabley stop by tomorrow at the chevy dealer to get full disclosure on what there planning to do and what parts there intending to install. and will update again tomorrow.
Their half amount to zero $, in other words.
You pay all.
Try bringing up that this is a known problem . It is a known defect, not wear and tear.
Im sorry, i should have mentioned this is part #2 (second thread) of the New Problem Thread, I explained in the first thread what my trouble was and the swhole story up to this point. I will get more details or possabley stop by tomorrow at the chevy dealer to get full disclosure on what there planning to do and what parts there intending to install. and will update again tomorrow.
Originally Posted By: GMBoy
Originally Posted By: 2oldtommy
)If it is a safety recall, it should be paid 100% regardless of time or mileage.y
Not a safety recall, but a pain in the rear for sure.
Exactly.
There is more to the story. If GM pays any part of the bill, it is done at warranty cost and labor for the repair and you pay X amount of $$$ or % of the repair after warranty expiration.
Originally Posted By: 2oldtommy
)If it is a safety recall, it should be paid 100% regardless of time or mileage.y
Not a safety recall, but a pain in the rear for sure.
Exactly.
There is more to the story. If GM pays any part of the bill, it is done at warranty cost and labor for the repair and you pay X amount of $$$ or % of the repair after warranty expiration.
OK, I stopped at Chevy today and asked for a detailed break down of the cost of the job, the Main service manager was manning the floor and all other staff were at lunch, she said she would be happy to give me a breakdown but was not able to at the current time as she had to stay out on the floor. She said she could get back to me this after noon with the information. I told her i appreciated all there efforts but i wanted a breakdown on the price as i was told that it seemed high, especialy considering im only suppose to be paying half. .
SO, I called another respected mom and pop shop, and was quated $142.00 for the job (just for a reference)
My question to all of you (as the man behind the counter at NAPA didnt know, i asked today) are all of the steering shafts availiable over the counter the "NEW AND IMPROVED" units or does Chevy have something that the parts stores dont ? thus making it a higher priced job ?
Could anyone be a pall and give me the Part number of the steering shaft that i want installed ? (the replacement Chevy would be installing)
for the record this is way deeper than i thought i was going to have to go with this..
SO, I called another respected mom and pop shop, and was quated $142.00 for the job (just for a reference)
My question to all of you (as the man behind the counter at NAPA didnt know, i asked today) are all of the steering shafts availiable over the counter the "NEW AND IMPROVED" units or does Chevy have something that the parts stores dont ? thus making it a higher priced job ?
Could anyone be a pall and give me the Part number of the steering shaft that i want installed ? (the replacement Chevy would be installing)
for the record this is way deeper than i thought i was going to have to go with this..
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
OK, I stopped at Chevy today and asked for a detailed break down of the cost of the job, the Main service manager was manning the floor and all other staff were at lunch, she said she would be happy to give me a breakdown but was not able to at the current time as she had to stay out on the floor. She said she could get back to me this after noon with the information. I told her i appreciated all there efforts but i wanted a breakdown on the price as i was told that it seemed high, especialy considering im only suppose to be paying half. .
SO, I called another respected mom and pop shop, and was quated $142.00 for the job (just for a reference)
My question to all of you (as the man behind the counter at NAPA didnt know, i asked today) are all of the steering shafts availiable over the counter the "NEW AND IMPROVED" units or does Chevy have something that the parts stores dont ? thus making it a higher priced job ?
Could anyone be a pall and give me the Part number of the steering shaft that i want installed ? (the replacement Chevy would be installing)
for the record this is way deeper than i thought i was going to have to go with this..
Here is the newest TSB info I could find( from Jan 2007 ). The part # is 19153614. You can buy it online from any number of sources. Cost will range anywhere from $55-$80 + shipping
Quote:
Document ID# 1893252
Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)
Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)
2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models
2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)
2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models
2003-2006 HUMMER H2
Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.
This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.
• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).
• Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.
Correction
DO THIS
DON'T DO THIS
Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.
Important:
• I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.
• Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.
For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.
8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
19153614
Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Upper -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Document ID# 1893252
OK, I stopped at Chevy today and asked for a detailed break down of the cost of the job, the Main service manager was manning the floor and all other staff were at lunch, she said she would be happy to give me a breakdown but was not able to at the current time as she had to stay out on the floor. She said she could get back to me this after noon with the information. I told her i appreciated all there efforts but i wanted a breakdown on the price as i was told that it seemed high, especialy considering im only suppose to be paying half. .
SO, I called another respected mom and pop shop, and was quated $142.00 for the job (just for a reference)
My question to all of you (as the man behind the counter at NAPA didnt know, i asked today) are all of the steering shafts availiable over the counter the "NEW AND IMPROVED" units or does Chevy have something that the parts stores dont ? thus making it a higher priced job ?
Could anyone be a pall and give me the Part number of the steering shaft that i want installed ? (the replacement Chevy would be installing)
for the record this is way deeper than i thought i was going to have to go with this..
Here is the newest TSB info I could find( from Jan 2007 ). The part # is 19153614. You can buy it online from any number of sources. Cost will range anywhere from $55-$80 + shipping
Quote:
Document ID# 1893252
Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)
Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)
2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models
2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)
2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models
2003-2006 HUMMER H2
Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.
This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.
• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).
• Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.
Correction
DO THIS
DON'T DO THIS
Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.
Important:
• I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.
• Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.
For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.
8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
19153614
Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Upper -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Document ID# 1893252
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
OK, I stopped at Chevy today and asked for a detailed break down of the cost of the job, the Main service manager was manning the floor and all other staff were at lunch, she said she would be happy to give me a breakdown but was not able to at the current time as she had to stay out on the floor. She said she could get back to me this after noon with the information. I told her i appreciated all there efforts but i wanted a breakdown on the price as i was told that it seemed high, especialy considering im only suppose to be paying half. .
SO, I called another respected mom and pop shop, and was quated $142.00 for the job (just for a reference)
My question to all of you (as the man behind the counter at NAPA didnt know, i asked today) are all of the steering shafts availiable over the counter the "NEW AND IMPROVED" units or does Chevy have something that the parts stores dont ? thus making it a higher priced job ?
Could anyone be a pall and give me the Part number of the steering shaft that i want installed ? (the replacement Chevy would be installing)
for the record this is way deeper than i thought i was going to have to go with this..
Here is the newest TSB info I could find( from Jan 2007 ). The part # is 19153614. You can buy it online from any number of sources. Cost will range anywhere from $55-$80 + shipping
Quote:
Document ID# 1893252
Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)
Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)
2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models
2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)
2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models
2003-2006 HUMMER H2
Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.
This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.
• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).
• Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.
Correction
DO THIS
DON'T DO THIS
Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.
Important:
• I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.
• Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.
For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.
8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
19153614
Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Upper -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Document ID# 1893252
THANK YOU !!!!!!!
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
OK, I stopped at Chevy today and asked for a detailed break down of the cost of the job, the Main service manager was manning the floor and all other staff were at lunch, she said she would be happy to give me a breakdown but was not able to at the current time as she had to stay out on the floor. She said she could get back to me this after noon with the information. I told her i appreciated all there efforts but i wanted a breakdown on the price as i was told that it seemed high, especialy considering im only suppose to be paying half. .
SO, I called another respected mom and pop shop, and was quated $142.00 for the job (just for a reference)
My question to all of you (as the man behind the counter at NAPA didnt know, i asked today) are all of the steering shafts availiable over the counter the "NEW AND IMPROVED" units or does Chevy have something that the parts stores dont ? thus making it a higher priced job ?
Could anyone be a pall and give me the Part number of the steering shaft that i want installed ? (the replacement Chevy would be installing)
for the record this is way deeper than i thought i was going to have to go with this..
Here is the newest TSB info I could find( from Jan 2007 ). The part # is 19153614. You can buy it online from any number of sources. Cost will range anywhere from $55-$80 + shipping
Quote:
Document ID# 1893252
Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)
Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)
2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models
2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)
2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models
2003-2006 HUMMER H2
Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.
This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix.
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.
• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).
• Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.
Correction
DO THIS
DON'T DO THIS
Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.
Important:
• I-shaft P/N 19153614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.
• Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.
Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.
Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.
Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.
For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.
6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.
6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.
From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.
8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.
Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).
Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.
Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.
Parts Information
Part Number
Description
19153614
Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering
Warranty Information
For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:
Labor Operation
Description
Labor Time
E7700
Shaft, Steering Intermediate - Upper -- Replace
Use Published Labor Operation Time
GM bulletins are intended for use by professional technicians, NOT a "do-it-yourselfer". They are written to inform these technicians of conditions that may occur on some vehicles, or to provide information that could assist in the proper service of a vehicle. Properly trained technicians have the equipment, tools, safety instructions, and know-how to do a job properly and safely. If a condition is described, DO NOT assume that the bulletin applies to your vehicle, or that your vehicle will have that condition. See your GM dealer for information on whether your vehicle may benefit from the information.
WE SUPPORT VOLUNTARY TECHNICIAN CERTIFICATION
© Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
Document ID# 1893252
THANK YOU !!!!!!!
I printed this and read the directions, It took me all of 8-10 minutes to disconnect the lower bolt (under the hood) grease, and reasemble.. after reading in detail your post this sounds like a opperation i can easly do myself in the garage. Is there any reason i should let the garage do this ? it sounds to me like once you disconnect the two shafts, its a matter of sliding the upper steering shaft up, CRAWLING UNDER THE DASH and taking out one more bolt, then removing the steering shaft. follow the directions in reverse to install the new one. Have i got this about right ?
Ok Im confused. GM is offering to pay for 190 dollars worth for the repair. Which is reasonable. But the dealer is charging u 390 for the repair. Which is way too much. So the dealer is trying to get paid twice for the repair. U need to try a new dealer if im understanding this correctly
^Yep.
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
I printed this and read the directions, It took me all of 8-10 minutes to disconnect the lower bolt (under the hood) grease, and reasemble.. after reading in detail your post this sounds like a opperation i can easly do myself in the garage. Is there any reason i should let the garage do this ? it sounds to me like once you disconnect the two shafts, its a matter of sliding the upper steering shaft up, CRAWLING UNDER THE DASH and taking out one more bolt, then removing the steering shaft. follow the directions in reverse to install the new one. Have i got this about right ?
It isn't difficult to do if you have at least minimum mechanical skills. You have already done 1/2 of it. Save yourself the money and do it yourself. Unless you can get the GM dealer to be hoenst and do it at no charge. I agree they are trying to double dip.
Flat rate for most shops on ISS is 1 hour. Unless this dealer charges $200+ p/hour they are trying to screw you.
I printed this and read the directions, It took me all of 8-10 minutes to disconnect the lower bolt (under the hood) grease, and reasemble.. after reading in detail your post this sounds like a opperation i can easly do myself in the garage. Is there any reason i should let the garage do this ? it sounds to me like once you disconnect the two shafts, its a matter of sliding the upper steering shaft up, CRAWLING UNDER THE DASH and taking out one more bolt, then removing the steering shaft. follow the directions in reverse to install the new one. Have i got this about right ?
It isn't difficult to do if you have at least minimum mechanical skills. You have already done 1/2 of it. Save yourself the money and do it yourself. Unless you can get the GM dealer to be hoenst and do it at no charge. I agree they are trying to double dip.
Flat rate for most shops on ISS is 1 hour. Unless this dealer charges $200+ p/hour they are trying to screw you.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: RH+G
Ok Im confused. GM is offering to pay for 190 dollars worth for the repair. Which is reasonable. But the dealer is charging u 390 for the repair. Which is way too much. So the dealer is trying to get paid twice for the repair. U need to try a new dealer if im understanding this correctly
Yes you have it correct, But i have new information. I stopped in at the dealers again Saturday and presented all my newfound information to them. (Friday the service manager i was dealing with quit) so i was dealing with someone altogether new. and yes that makes 2 staff at the service center quit this week.. SO this new girl was more than willing to break down the price and help me understand the $390.00 repair. the documentation she showed me states there going to replace the entire steering shaft (upper and lower) $197.00 in OEM parts. plus labor is a total of $390 2 hours of book labor plus a warranty charge of 1 hour of "cushion" labor. so yes im getting charged 3 hours of labor but she claims warranty jobs always get billed a hour of cushion.. so anyways as i was tired of playing Sherlock Holmes i agreed and asked if they had the parts in stock. She said she believed they did but would double check (the previous service manager assured me the parts were in stock) I was only asking to confirm. So she says she will check. Im told i will recieve a call when she can verify the parts are in stock and we can make the appointment for repair. You guessed it, I never got a call. SO, this afternoon i get a call from Chevy customer service wanting to know if i was satisfied and if all had went well with the repair.. I gave them the skinny that it hadnt been done, i was still waiting on a call for a verification of parts in stock so we could set a appointment. and yeah, i mentioned there had been two staffers quit this week so i wasnt all that suprised that i hadnt gotten a call back..
So with all that said, ive began asking myself, DO i realy need both shafts for this repair ? do i need to spend the $190.00 or just order the upper shaft for under $90 and do this myself ? is there any positive side to installing the lower shaft? or is the lower shaft still the original part #
Is this just Chevy being safe replacing both shafts ? or with both shafts am i getting """the shaft""" ???
Again for the record.. im realy over this....
Ok Im confused. GM is offering to pay for 190 dollars worth for the repair. Which is reasonable. But the dealer is charging u 390 for the repair. Which is way too much. So the dealer is trying to get paid twice for the repair. U need to try a new dealer if im understanding this correctly
Yes you have it correct, But i have new information. I stopped in at the dealers again Saturday and presented all my newfound information to them. (Friday the service manager i was dealing with quit) so i was dealing with someone altogether new. and yes that makes 2 staff at the service center quit this week.. SO this new girl was more than willing to break down the price and help me understand the $390.00 repair. the documentation she showed me states there going to replace the entire steering shaft (upper and lower) $197.00 in OEM parts. plus labor is a total of $390 2 hours of book labor plus a warranty charge of 1 hour of "cushion" labor. so yes im getting charged 3 hours of labor but she claims warranty jobs always get billed a hour of cushion.. so anyways as i was tired of playing Sherlock Holmes i agreed and asked if they had the parts in stock. She said she believed they did but would double check (the previous service manager assured me the parts were in stock) I was only asking to confirm. So she says she will check. Im told i will recieve a call when she can verify the parts are in stock and we can make the appointment for repair. You guessed it, I never got a call. SO, this afternoon i get a call from Chevy customer service wanting to know if i was satisfied and if all had went well with the repair.. I gave them the skinny that it hadnt been done, i was still waiting on a call for a verification of parts in stock so we could set a appointment. and yeah, i mentioned there had been two staffers quit this week so i wasnt all that suprised that i hadnt gotten a call back..
So with all that said, ive began asking myself, DO i realy need both shafts for this repair ? do i need to spend the $190.00 or just order the upper shaft for under $90 and do this myself ? is there any positive side to installing the lower shaft? or is the lower shaft still the original part #
Is this just Chevy being safe replacing both shafts ? or with both shafts am i getting """the shaft""" ???
Again for the record.. im realy over this....
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
I printed this and read the directions, It took me all of 8-10 minutes to disconnect the lower bolt (under the hood) grease, and reasemble.. after reading in detail your post this sounds like a opperation i can easly do myself in the garage. Is there any reason i should let the garage do this ? it sounds to me like once you disconnect the two shafts, its a matter of sliding the upper steering shaft up, CRAWLING UNDER THE DASH and taking out one more bolt, then removing the steering shaft. follow the directions in reverse to install the new one. Have i got this about right ?
It isn't difficult to do if you have at least minimum mechanical skills. You have already done 1/2 of it. Save yourself the money and do it yourself. Unless you can get the GM dealer to be hoenst and do it at no charge. I agree they are trying to double dip.
Flat rate for most shops on ISS is 1 hour. Unless this dealer charges $200+ p/hour they are trying to screw you.
I believe you. and im sure i could easly handle this install myself, im no ASE certified tech, but im a fair parts changer, most things that bolt on to a block i can handle. with that being said read what i just posted a few moments ago and give me your opinion.
Thanks Otis
Originally Posted By: OtisBlkR1
I printed this and read the directions, It took me all of 8-10 minutes to disconnect the lower bolt (under the hood) grease, and reasemble.. after reading in detail your post this sounds like a opperation i can easly do myself in the garage. Is there any reason i should let the garage do this ? it sounds to me like once you disconnect the two shafts, its a matter of sliding the upper steering shaft up, CRAWLING UNDER THE DASH and taking out one more bolt, then removing the steering shaft. follow the directions in reverse to install the new one. Have i got this about right ?
It isn't difficult to do if you have at least minimum mechanical skills. You have already done 1/2 of it. Save yourself the money and do it yourself. Unless you can get the GM dealer to be hoenst and do it at no charge. I agree they are trying to double dip.
Flat rate for most shops on ISS is 1 hour. Unless this dealer charges $200+ p/hour they are trying to screw you.
I believe you. and im sure i could easly handle this install myself, im no ASE certified tech, but im a fair parts changer, most things that bolt on to a block i can handle. with that being said read what i just posted a few moments ago and give me your opinion.
Thanks Otis
- Status
Similar threads
