I was wondering if the cheapest Full Synthetic oil (walmart brand probably) is still better than the best dino oil available.
Any one have any opinions on this?
Any one have any opinions on this?
Cheapest Full Synthetic vs Best dino oil
- Thread starter skip029
- Start date
- Status
just because an oil has GRP III base stocks doesnt mean that it will out perform a well balanced GRP II.
I would have to say most likley a marginal difference if any. GpII+ base oils are really good.
Originally Posted By: electrolover
just because an oil has GRP III base stocks doesnt mean that it will out perform a well balanced GRP II.
The oil with the best add package would be the best in this comparison ,,, what would you say electrolover?
just because an oil has GRP III base stocks doesnt mean that it will out perform a well balanced GRP II.
The oil with the best add package would be the best in this comparison ,,, what would you say electrolover?
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: electrolover
just because an oil has GRP III base stocks doesnt mean that it will out perform a well balanced GRP II.
The oil with the best add package would be the best in this comparison ,,, what would you say electrolover?
agreed!
Originally Posted By: electrolover
just because an oil has GRP III base stocks doesnt mean that it will out perform a well balanced GRP II.
The oil with the best add package would be the best in this comparison ,,, what would you say electrolover?
agreed!
QSUD is still a pretty good price (just went up at WalMart). Really the difference between it and the high quality dino is almost negligible.
The additive package makes a difference, better additive quality could make a difference in edging out a grp II vs Grp III. I think any difference would be small.
I always go back to some of the oils produced for Fuch's (one of the best oils on the market), which produces very good UOA's with very "light" additive content. So both base oil and additives are important.
PYB SN vs Peak Syn= PYB (SN) for me.
I always go back to some of the oils produced for Fuch's (one of the best oils on the market), which produces very good UOA's with very "light" additive content. So both base oil and additives are important.
PYB SN vs Peak Syn= PYB (SN) for me.
PYB SN vs Peak Syn= PYB (SN) for me. [/quote]
AGREED
AGREED
Originally Posted By: Old Mustang Guy
QSUD is still a pretty good price (just went up at WalMart). Really the difference between it and the high quality dino is almost negligible.
I disagree...I think QSUD is a top shelf synthetic (as good as PP, Syntec, Synpower or M1).
I do agree that PYB SN is probably as good as Peak syn. or ST syn.
QSUD is still a pretty good price (just went up at WalMart). Really the difference between it and the high quality dino is almost negligible.
I disagree...I think QSUD is a top shelf synthetic (as good as PP, Syntec, Synpower or M1).
I do agree that PYB SN is probably as good as Peak syn. or ST syn.
Originally Posted By: Old Mustang Guy
QSUD is still a pretty good price (just went up at WalMart). Really the difference between it and the high quality dino is almost negligible.
QSUD is a top notch synthetic! dont let price fool you.
QSUD is still a pretty good price (just went up at WalMart). Really the difference between it and the high quality dino is almost negligible.
All depends on the OCI you want to run.
Long 5+k OCI: Synthetic.
Short 3-5k OCI: Conventional/SynBlend.
Long 5+k OCI: Synthetic.
Short 3-5k OCI: Conventional/SynBlend.
Originally Posted By: electrolover
just because an oil has GRP III base stocks doesnt mean that it will out perform a well balanced GRP II.
+1
just because an oil has GRP III base stocks doesnt mean that it will out perform a well balanced GRP II.
+1
Originally Posted By: skip029
I was wondering if the cheapest Full Synthetic oil (walmart brand probably) is still better than the best dino oil available.
Any one have any opinions on this?
No such thing as a "best" oil, nor can a high-end dino be compared to a low-end synthetic. The answer will be different for different applications.
I was wondering if the cheapest Full Synthetic oil (walmart brand probably) is still better than the best dino oil available.
Any one have any opinions on this?
No such thing as a "best" oil, nor can a high-end dino be compared to a low-end synthetic. The answer will be different for different applications.
An oil like PYB still has a better add pack than lets say SuperTech syn. At least you can get moly with PYB.
Seems like the consensus is Cheap Full Synthetic > Great Dino.
As for different applications, I should just say this is for a daily commuter car. Not racing or anything speedy like that.
Sure, oil is oil, but i want to min/max. Thanks for the input guys.
As for different applications, I should just say this is for a daily commuter car. Not racing or anything speedy like that.
Sure, oil is oil, but i want to min/max. Thanks for the input guys.
Napa SYN still $3.38 a quart and can't be beat. Try it you might like it.
Originally Posted By: skip029
Seems like the consensus is Cheap Full Synthetic > Great Dino.
As for different applications, I should just say this is for a daily commuter car. Not racing or anything speedy like that.
Sure, oil is oil, but i want to min/max. Thanks for the input guys.
I couldn't disagree more.
When you're talking "synthetic" versus "dino," you're only talking about the base stocks. You're not even mentioning the additive package. Sometimes, base stock trumps all; other times, you need the right additive package. Don't paint everything with the same brush.
The fact that it's just for a "daily commuter" doesn't say much. Some cars need synthetics no matter what.
"Oil is oil" isn't true in any meaningful sense.
If you want to min/max, blanket questions like this won't get you anywhere. A synthetic might be the best way to go, or there might be a dino that does just as well for a lot less money.
Seems like the consensus is Cheap Full Synthetic > Great Dino.
As for different applications, I should just say this is for a daily commuter car. Not racing or anything speedy like that.
Sure, oil is oil, but i want to min/max. Thanks for the input guys.
I couldn't disagree more.
When you're talking "synthetic" versus "dino," you're only talking about the base stocks. You're not even mentioning the additive package. Sometimes, base stock trumps all; other times, you need the right additive package. Don't paint everything with the same brush.
The fact that it's just for a "daily commuter" doesn't say much. Some cars need synthetics no matter what.
"Oil is oil" isn't true in any meaningful sense.
If you want to min/max, blanket questions like this won't get you anywhere. A synthetic might be the best way to go, or there might be a dino that does just as well for a lot less money.
^+1, couldn't agree more.
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
I couldn't disagree more.
When you're talking "synthetic" versus "dino," you're only talking about the base stocks. You're not even mentioning the additive package. Sometimes, base stock trumps all; other times, you need the right additive package. Don't paint everything with the same brush.
The fact that it's just for a "daily commuter" doesn't say much. Some cars need synthetics no matter what.
"Oil is oil" isn't true in any meaningful sense.
If you want to min/max, blanket questions like this won't get you anywhere. A synthetic might be the best way to go, or there might be a dino that does just as well for a lot less money.
So which additive package should I be looking for in a Dino oil vs the cheapest Full Synthetic?
I always figured Full Synthetic was the way to go over 'any' dino oil. But since yall are saying there is a difference, I'm confused now.
I couldn't disagree more.
When you're talking "synthetic" versus "dino," you're only talking about the base stocks. You're not even mentioning the additive package. Sometimes, base stock trumps all; other times, you need the right additive package. Don't paint everything with the same brush.
The fact that it's just for a "daily commuter" doesn't say much. Some cars need synthetics no matter what.
"Oil is oil" isn't true in any meaningful sense.
If you want to min/max, blanket questions like this won't get you anywhere. A synthetic might be the best way to go, or there might be a dino that does just as well for a lot less money.
So which additive package should I be looking for in a Dino oil vs the cheapest Full Synthetic?
I always figured Full Synthetic was the way to go over 'any' dino oil. But since yall are saying there is a difference, I'm confused now.
Unfortunately it's hard to tell in advance what oil has what you need and what oil doesn't; most of the knowledge to make that call is proprietary. The thing to decide from here is whether you want to spend time and money figuring out what the best oil for your car is, or whether you're satisfied to make a reasonable guess.
If all you want to do is to make a safe bet, read the sticky in this forum and post back with more info. Make sure you give lots of detail on the part that refers to your owner's manual, as that will provide valuable information on what your car's specific needs are. To be perfectly honest, our collective knowledge is limited, but it's about as good as it gets outside of paid forums, and certainly better than the Internet at large.
If you want to find out for sure what the best oil for your application is, do the above to find a good starting point, and then drain a sample for used oil analysis (UOA) at about 3,000-5,000 miles. Based on the results from that, you can either stay with the same thing or switch; then, pull another sample at whatever interval you chose before, and repeat until you're happy with the results. If you post the results here, we can interpret the data, albeit crudely; alternatively, Dyson Analysis offers a paid service that provides you a MUCH better customized interpretation by a real expert with decades of experience, who will also help you on an ongoing basis not only to find the right oil but also to make sure your engine is in good running order. Expect to pay at least $60 per sample for raw data; the more you can spend, the better, as more money can buy you a better suite of tests that will produce a better informed decision. The full-on Dyson analysis with the expert interpretation will run you $130. There are plenty of other options in that ballpark.
If all you want to do is to make a safe bet, read the sticky in this forum and post back with more info. Make sure you give lots of detail on the part that refers to your owner's manual, as that will provide valuable information on what your car's specific needs are. To be perfectly honest, our collective knowledge is limited, but it's about as good as it gets outside of paid forums, and certainly better than the Internet at large.
If you want to find out for sure what the best oil for your application is, do the above to find a good starting point, and then drain a sample for used oil analysis (UOA) at about 3,000-5,000 miles. Based on the results from that, you can either stay with the same thing or switch; then, pull another sample at whatever interval you chose before, and repeat until you're happy with the results. If you post the results here, we can interpret the data, albeit crudely; alternatively, Dyson Analysis offers a paid service that provides you a MUCH better customized interpretation by a real expert with decades of experience, who will also help you on an ongoing basis not only to find the right oil but also to make sure your engine is in good running order. Expect to pay at least $60 per sample for raw data; the more you can spend, the better, as more money can buy you a better suite of tests that will produce a better informed decision. The full-on Dyson analysis with the expert interpretation will run you $130. There are plenty of other options in that ballpark.
- Status
Similar threads
