Rotella 10w-30 dino CJ-4 6.5k miles; Dmax LBZ

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dnewton3

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May 14, 2007
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Location
Indianapolis, IN
2006 LBZ Duramax UOA
All readings zero if not noted
No make-up oil added
TBN not tested as oil dumped at 6.5k miles (~1 year interval).
This is the "Triple Protection" 10w-30 conventional oil and not the T5.

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Date 2011 2010 2009

Oil (dino) 10w-30 15w-40 10w-30

Brand Rotella Delvac Rotella

Oil Mileage 6.5k 7.0k 6.0k 6.6k

Truck mileage 33.5k 27k 20k

Filter PureOne Wix Wix



Al 2 n/a 3 9

Fe 14 n/a 10 12

Cu 3 n/a 5 10

Pb 5 n/a 2 3

Tn 0 n/a 1 1

Molyb 14 n/a 2 29

Potas 11 n/a 13 3

Boron 35 n/a 24 54

Silicon 11 n/a 11 9

Calcium 2336 n/a 2358 2661

Magn 113 n/a 10 229

Phos 1115 n/a 1001 1090

Zn 1314 n/a 1201 1290



SUS @ 210F 67.6 n/a 72.5

cSt @ 100C 12.31 n/a 13.6

FP 415 n/a 425

Fuel 0 n/a 0

Water 0 n/a 0

Coolant 0 n/a 0

Insolubles 0.2 n/a 0.3


OCI notes:
The truck is a secondary vehicle for me; most miles are accumulated during summer vacation trips pulling a full size travel-trailer. Our vacation trip this year was ~4.4k miles, representing 67% of the total miles on this 6.5k mile UOA. This summer’s trip was from IN out through the CO Rockies, all over the southern half of UT, down into AZ and back through CO. We saw daily significant changes in elevation and extreme heat in the canyons.

I wanted to see how the new pyrometer would perform and just how high the EGTs ran with a stock engine, so I was purposely merciless in flogging it up all those mountain passes every day. (I was never unsafe in my driving, and I am courteous to others, but more often than not, I was the guy doing the passing uphill and very few people ever found it necessary to pass me).

I also wanted to see how well the host oil would hold up in the UOA with no outside influence, so no make-up oil was added whatsoever for the entire OCI. I am diligent about checking the fluid levels, but since it was always in the safe range, I just left it alone. When I was ready to OCI, it was just a hair above the add mark. (For reference, the range on the dipstick from Full down to Add represents approximately 2 quarts of volume). In effect, I was down 20% of the sump volume at the end of the OCI.

Check the viscosity; even though I harangued this oil as best I could, the vis didn’t thicken as much as the last time; it’s just a hair out of grade, but not by much. After all that heating and 20% sump loss, it’s better than two years ago. Had I topped off the sump, it would have easily been in spec.

The Fe and Pb are a tiny bit over the universal averages, but not enough to warrant concern. Given the way I rode this mule every day, I'm suprised they're not higher .... In fact (and again) had I topped off, they probably would have been at or below average.

I continue to be impressed, both with the Rotella and the engine. I tried my best to frag that lube. I stacked the deck against it with high heat loads, sustained uphill pulls at WOT, zero make-up oil and a sump at less than full capacity, yet the oil/engine combination performed admirably.



Fear not the lighter dino HDEOs!
 
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Thanks for whipping up on that LBZ, and posting this uoa. Would have been nice to see what the Delvac numbers were sanwiched between the 10w30.
 
Ok so between your consistently boring (read: good) UOA and the possibility of better MPGs and my mechanic recommendations, who I would trust to house sit much less recommend oils....my truck is getting some Rotella T5. I can't find the dino oil locally and T5 is all over wally world.

Thanks for sharing!
 
As for the Delvac 1300, I didn't UOA that because, frankly, it's been done many times before. A Dmax engine with Delvac 1300 15w-40 is one of the more predominant UOAs at some of the other sites I visit. There would be nothing "new" to learn from a UOA like that. I'm not going to spend money to find out what I can learn from other UOAs. I can assure you that the numbers would be very typical of what you see in my two UOAs. I understand what you mean, it's just that I'm not going to pay $25 to see an echo of what's already posted many times before. I'd rather do something "different" with a 10w-30, and slay some mythology. (BTW - I do have a sample of the Delvac OCI on the shelf; I'm just not going to spend the money for the UOA. I saved it in case there was an "issue" and I needed a control point to fall back on for informational reference. I ALWAYS take a sample of the used oil from my equipment, I just don't always send them in).

As for the T5, I think it's a very viable option. Decent price and very available at most every W/M. I would say, to get your money's worth, you'd have to run it a bit longer than the dino.


Overall, I'm just about to the point where I'm going to stop all this nonsense and just buy what's on sale. There is simply too much evidence from Delvac, Delo, Rotella, VPB, Tection Extra to show that the brand/grade simply mean nothing to a Dmax. If you choose a spec'd fluid, it will work. Period.

That is why you see the Delvac run in the middle of my Rotella runs. It was BOGOF two years ago. How can I pass up great oil like that when it's $6.50/gallon?!?!?! I've really just been doing the 10w-30 because, frankly, some people say it can't be done. Some people think a diesel will disintegrate internally if you don't run a 40 grade. I beg to differ.

Right now there is a fresh load of dino 10w-30 Rotella in there. It's my last of the current stash, as I have ear-marked the remaining 1.5 gallons for my Kubota. So, I'll likely have another UOA for next year. But after that, I think I'm just finding the nearest rebate/sale/promotion and not putting another thought into it.
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3


As for the T5, I think it's a very viable option. Decent price and very available at most every W/M. I would say, to get your money's worth, you'd have to run it a bit longer than the dino, just to get your money's worth.


I plan on throwing a ELF7405 on my PSD to give some added filtration and capacity, they aren't THAT much more than the FL-1995 and make the total sump capacity 16 quarts even. I can finally stop having a bunch of gallon jugs with a quart in them. Then run a uoa at 5k and see how it goes. I hope to get 7500-10,000 miles out of the T5. I think that a realistic goal.
 
Originally Posted By: rufushusky
I hope to get 7500-10,000 miles out of the T5. I think that a realistic goal.


I think you're right.


BTW - I actually saw some dino 10w-30 Rotella in an O'Reilly's on the shelf in Alamosa, CO. Have never seen it anywhere but farm supply stores and Menards in the midwest. This may be the start of a trend?
 
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Your results were as I had expected, excellent, as are mine with 10w-30 (in my 6.0). I agree with you that a syn or a syn blend is not needed for excellent results.

I use the Deere Plus 50 10w-30 out of convienence, its a very good HDEO and readily available close to me, I also use it in several different applications, so I buy in bulk.
 
Over the past couple years, we've purchased a couple pieces of equipment that have had Caterpillar engines in them. One with a C9, one with a C7, and one with a 6.6L. According to the engine manual that came with each of them, they come from the factory with 10w-30 oil in them. They recommend going the full OEM OCI for the first oil change. After that 10w-30 is recommended but you can also use 15w-40. I bought a couple pails of T3 10w-30 for some of the trucks and cars on our farm.
 
Dave,

Long time, no post on my end.....I'll respond to your email you sent me here in a bit.

You UOA looks perfectly fine. As I've said for a long time....any properly spec'd oil will protect your engine perfectly fine. Your UOA is many among thousands of other UOA's that prove my point.

Can't believe you only have 33.5K miles on your DMax. I'm about to roll over 100K on my '07.5. Boy, my truck has been a good one. Hard to beat a Duramax's performance, especially with a load tied behind it.

Shawn
 
Nice UOA on the run of Shell Rotella Triple Protection 10W-30 Diesel Dino. What a strong oil to hold up so well with your D-max and pulling a load through the mountains!

I'm currently running a mixed blend of 50/50 Shell Rotella, Triple Protection, 10W-30 and Formula Shell Dino, 5W-30.

Although I'm not hauling loads through mountain passes, I have some rough conditions with city driving and open highway conditions. At almost 5K miles on the oil, the condition is still very clean and my engine runs nice and smooth. The Formula Shell gives me a larger dose of Moly than what the regular Shell Rotella would provide, so I mixed the two after calling Shell to see if they would be compatible for my application.

I also wish that Shell Rotella, Triple Protection, 10W-30 was more readily available, along with the other major brands of Diesel Dino in 10W-30.

I had thought about running this Shell Rotella, Diesel Dino 10W-30 in a 50/50 mix with Formula Shell Full Synthetic in 5W-20 during the winter but I will instead run either Pennzoil Platinum or Ultra.

I'm sold on using these Diesel Dino oils, with a mix of conventional oil during the hot summer months for their ability to stay in grade and give great protection.

Thanks again for your Posted Results on running Shell Rotella, Triple Protection, 10W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3


BTW - I actually saw some dino 10w-30 Rotella in an O'Reilly's on the shelf in Alamosa, CO. Have never seen it anywhere but farm supply stores and Menards in the midwest. This may be the start of a trend?


I just found out the advance auto parts by me now carries the dino 10w-30 as well. You might be right, energy saving oils are all the rave now.
 
Hi dave! I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one being "merciless" to my batch of oil while going uphill with a load...I'm currently running 15w40 rotella cj-4 in my duramax LBZ and have been towing a large load (11,000-12,000 lbs) all summer in michigan. I'm at 7,300 miles currently, and only added about 3/4 of a quart around 6,000 miles. I'm going to run until at least the time the OCI monitor tells me it's time...and then maybe a little longer..I'm also am running bosch's new "distance plus" oil filter with a filtermag attached to it..I will definately post the UOA on here this year. By the way...just how high did your EGT's get? I touched 1300 F this summer on an uphill climb in this insane heatwave with A/C blasting with about 12,000 lbs in tow. Truck has a 4 inch turbo back exhaust and also a tuner...but I was running on "stock" power when towing.
 
My EGTs never got to the factory limit of 1350 deg F. I did see a hair over 1300 almost daily, on the big, long hills. No tuner; factory stock.

Will be looking forward to you UOA when it comes up!
 
Dave...I will now be using two "filtermags" for the UOA...I have one for fuel filter and oil filter..I changed out my metal canister fuel filter last night to my last plastic filter...so I am curious how the iron levels will be with these two strong magnets!?
 
You can order Rotella Dino 10w30 from Advance Auto like I did when Rotella was on sale. The part number is 5073790. Hope this helps.
 
Thanks for posting the link, with the item number, to order Rotella 10W-30 from Advance Auto.

Originally Posted By: Scramblerguy
You can order Rotella Dino 10w30 from Advance Auto like I did when Rotella was on sale. The part number is 5073790. Hope this helps.
 
Would the Shell Triple 10W-30 CJ-4 work in a stock LMM? Would you expect to see MPG gains over 5W-40 Mobil 1 TDT?
 
Originally Posted By: Duramax_LMM
Would the Shell Triple 10W-30 CJ-4 work in a stock LMM? Would you expect to see MPG gains over 5W-40 Mobil 1 TDT?


Yeah I think it would work just fine. I running the T5 and I haven't noticed any MPG increase in my 7.3.
 
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