I read several times recently that M1 changed and is no longer true synthetic. It would make sense actually due to that law suit because it would seem they'd just say screw it and join castrol in having the advantage of calling itself synth but making no synth to compete. anyways, regardless of my speculation, does anyone know if M1 bike oil changed it's formula in the last few years?
Is it true or not...M1 changed it's formula
- Thread starter daz
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AFAIK its they use group III base stocks now, so technically no its not a true synthetic, but its able to be called "synthetic" in America..
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I am not sure if it was ever a true synthetic , and yes a group III is still a dino base
Grp III is hydrocracked dino oil-AFAIK the only "true" syns left are Redline, Amsoil, & Royal Purple-possibly Delvac 1? I'm sure someone will chime in as well.
What about PP?
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PP is a group III
Mobil 1 has a mixture of GrpIII and Grp IV base stocks, and the actual amounts vary across the product line. I have read in other threads here that up to 15 base stocks are used, but they won't say exactly which ones. So to say it is not truly synthetic is an unprovable assertion. Oil formulations are always changing and trying to keep up with them is like trying to hold back the ocean with a broom.
Its nice to see some straight talk regarding oils....especially the myth of about '6 months or X amount of miles'. He was very clear that it should not be a problem in running such oils for one year (or X amount of miles)....with a good mid-tier filter.
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03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 98,800
PP 5w20 / Purolator PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/- or 1 year
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03' Ford Focus (2.3L Duratec PZEV) / 98,800
PP 5w20 / Purolator PureOne / OCI: 8,000 +/- or 1 year
I have to do research on Redline and RP as for being PAO or Esters. Yamalube 15W-50 Full Synthetic oil has Esters and so does Motul 7100. Motul 5100 is an Ester Blend. So much to learn about oil and so little time.
Yes, and i just read the article about oils in another thread which confirmed that motul 7100, thier full synth, truly is just that....
Quote:
elvac-1, AMSOil, Redline and Motul synthetics contain no petroleum oils - they're pure synthetic.
Good article. it also answered another question i asked here recently about whether it's ok to blend oils because i have a bike that takes just over a gallon and want to buy oil in gallon jugs....
Quote:
I'm sometimes asked if it's ok to blend your own oils. Yes, it is. Oils are all made out of pretty much the same chemicals, and nothing really bad will happen
Quote:
elvac-1, AMSOil, Redline and Motul synthetics contain no petroleum oils - they're pure synthetic.
Good article. it also answered another question i asked here recently about whether it's ok to blend oils because i have a bike that takes just over a gallon and want to buy oil in gallon jugs....
Quote:
I'm sometimes asked if it's ok to blend your own oils. Yes, it is. Oils are all made out of pretty much the same chemicals, and nothing really bad will happen
I'm not so sure.
I think that the base stock on most Mobil 1 oils is still group IV. Group IV's turn bright purple with some surfactants. And the color/brightness of the reaction is related to percentage of content.
While this is an admittedly unscientific test, it still proves, without a doubt that there is substantial Group IV in the Mobil 1 oils I use.
Certainly, M1 Racing 4t, 10W-40 and 20W-50 and 5W-40TDT and 5W-20 and 0W-30 and 15W-50 all show Group IV.
I think that the base stock on most Mobil 1 oils is still group IV. Group IV's turn bright purple with some surfactants. And the color/brightness of the reaction is related to percentage of content.
While this is an admittedly unscientific test, it still proves, without a doubt that there is substantial Group IV in the Mobil 1 oils I use.
Certainly, M1 Racing 4t, 10W-40 and 20W-50 and 5W-40TDT and 5W-20 and 0W-30 and 15W-50 all show Group IV.
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All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Quote:
M1 changed and is no longer true synthetic.
It doesn't matter. What does matter is the protection it gives the engine, and that remains excellent.
M1 changed and is no longer true synthetic.
It doesn't matter. What does matter is the protection it gives the engine, and that remains excellent.
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Define Better ?
All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Define Better ?
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Define Better ?
More good
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Define Better ?
More good
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Define Better ?
Oil spec and PRICE!!!!
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Define Better ?
Oil spec and PRICE!!!!
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Define Better ?
Good answer or should I say vague question.
Cost wise you aint going to match T6. Performance wise do you need anything that performs a little better and costs a whole lot more???? If you are racing then maybe I would be asking. For street duties I'd go for the 15w40 unless your riding through winter. Then use the T6. UOAs are not going to show much difference to a you beaut synthetic.
Originally Posted By: sm00thpapa
All this talk about synthetics got me excited. Now which one is better Delvac 1 or Rotella T6 for sport bikes.
Define Better ?
Good answer or should I say vague question.
Cost wise you aint going to match T6. Performance wise do you need anything that performs a little better and costs a whole lot more???? If you are racing then maybe I would be asking. For street duties I'd go for the 15w40 unless your riding through winter. Then use the T6. UOAs are not going to show much difference to a you beaut synthetic.
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