VR1 conventional oil change interval

[armos]

Today I bought conventional Valvoline VR1 gray bottle 10w30 "Racing" oil. As expected it does not have official API certification, just a statement claiming that it meets SL/SM wear standards. I bought it for ZDP on an old flat tappet engine, not racing.

My understanding is that this oil is advertised for a 3000 mile interval. But I think most people here would agree that 3000 miles is an excessively short interval in most cases.

So my question - is this oil any less durable, or more prone to sludge, than typical passenger car oil? I would likely run it about 4-5000 miles, as I have on the last fill. But since this stuff has the unfortunate label of "Racing" oil, I want to make sure it's not going to sludge up faster than normal oil in a street application.
Note to Valvoline marketing: Your "Racing" label doesn't impress me, it scares me. If this isn't truly racing oil, then stop calling it that!

I've read that this is the same as Valvoline's standard conventional white bottle oil but with higher ZDDP. If that's 100% true, then it would imply that 5000 miles isn't a problem, but I want to make sure. Thanks.

 

[Xstang]

I do remember reading a UOA of the 10w-30 synthetic in a supercharged Scion Tc for ~1300 miles, some of it track-Visc and TBN were on the low side.

You're right-it does look like they take a regular oil and boost it with Zinc.

Also, what in the world are you running it in?

 

[A_Harman]

It is their Premium Conventional Motor oil with extra zddp.
You can run it 5000 miles.
The Valvoline racing oil with low TBN is called NSL.

 

[armos]

Originally Posted By: Xstang
I do remember reading a UOA of the 10w-30 synthetic in a supercharged Scion Tc for ~1300 miles, some of it track-Visc and TBN were on the low side.

I remember that also, it concerned me a bit. I know it's generally acknowledged to be "normal" oil that can handle a typical OCI, but was a bit worried how well that's been tested in reality.
I probably shouldn't worry about it, but I'll keep an eye on people's UOAs. I haven't seen much on this oil that was used in a street car.

Quote:
Also, what in the world are you running it in?

86 Fiero, Chevy 60 degree 2.8. The original spec is SF. Based on it's condition I believe it was rebuilt by a previous owner but I don't know if anything unusual was done to it.
The lifter pressures should be relatively mild compared to the engines people really worry about, but I still prefer to run something with a ZDDP content that's closer to what was expected back when the engine was current.

 

[A_Harman]

Interesting car. I just saw a Fiero driving in Michigan yesterday. It had been a few years since I had seen one.

 

[armos]

Unfortunately I think rust has killed most of them in your area. The ones left are probably summer-only garage queens, and I don't think many of these cars got that treatment.

I had an 84 model before this one, which I bought in Illinois in 96 and moved out to California with a few years later.
About a year ago I tore it down intent on doing major work to it. Then I discovered why it felt so unstable - the frame rails above the rear wheels were almost severed by rust. From what I've read that's the typical point where these cars rust out.
Somebody before me had put tar on the frame, but they didn't get that area, probably because it's difficult to reach.

Out here rust is practically a non-issue so it was easy to find another one in much better condition. I think people thought I was strange for even looking for rust, they don't even think about it out here. But it's a nightmare to those of us who have lived in the rust belt.