2004 Toyota Sienna engine oil recommendation

[Tikon]

A warm hello from me to you. This is my first post here.

And like many before me, I begin with asking for your help.

Just bought a 2004 Sienna 4WD for my growing family. It has 216000 kms (135000 miles). We live in Vancouver, BC, Canada. This is for the usual daily short trips, school, grocery, lessons, .... My wife will drive it mostly. She is a timid driver. There will be some long 5 hours vacation trips to Oregon. The manual recommends 5w30 type.

I don't know what oil is used by the previous owner. I will do an oil change. Here are my options on craigslist:

1. Castro SLX pro synthetic 5w30, 12L for $30. 30 minutes trip.

2. Pennzoil Platinum 5w30 full synthetic. $28 for 4.4L. 20 minutes trip.

3. Shell Rotella T5 Synthetic blend, 0w30, $16 per 4L. 30 minutes trip.

Of these tree options, which one is the best option? Is there something else better than these three that I should keep an eye for?

Many thanks for your inputs.

 

[bepperb]

I assume it's the 3.3 and not the 3.0?

If that's the case the 12L for 30 dollars! Was that a typo?

Or, make sure to pick up some oil in Oregon. 30 bucks will get you 5 quarts of just about anything here.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Welcome to the forum! I would probably run the Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30. It's a proven product and will meet all of your needs. What choices are available to you at the retail level? Is your oil that much more expensive at the retail level than on Craigslist? I'm not sure I'd buy oil from someone I didn't know, but I assume you'd check the seal on the bottle first.

 

[lexus114]

Mobil-1 0W30 afe works great in those motors.

 

[ChiTDI]

Welcome, but share the wealth.
How do you get 12 liters of a synthetic for $30?

 

[Tikon]

Quick reply, awesome!

NO. 12L of Castro SLX for $30 is correct.

I am experimenting to find the right oil, and flushing the old oil (guessing it to be mineral base).

Don't want to pay full price while playing around.

the engine is a VVT-i V6 3.3L

3 replies, 3 answers.

 

[bepperb]

Well, some background to my answer would be that the Toyota 3.3 doesn't really require any special oil to perform well, and being that you'll probably cut this change short to "flush" out whatever's in there I'd buy on price, but really any of the 3 would work fine (so my answer would be all of the above). The 3.0 more or less requires a synthetic or premium oil as it's very sludge prone, the 3.3 doesn't seem to have this issue.

I hope the timing belt was replaced at some point.

 

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: lexus114
Mobil-1 0W30 afe works great in those motors.

+1
I've been using it in my Sienna since it was first introduced. An excellent oil and outstanding for use year around in your climate. In my 2WD 2005 I have gotten as high as 27.4 MPG on the highway using this oil, 93 octane fuel, and 40 PSI in the tires. BTW, the van runs fine with 87 octane and it is what I generally use.

 

[weebl]

Your engine is the Toyota 3MZ-FE. I have essentially the same van (only a 2006 with FWD). When I lived in Vancouver, I always ran dino, except on my TDI Golf which required synthetic.

Since you also live in Vancouver, and based on the use you describe, so long as you stick to the 8,000km OCI, you should be good with a quality dino such as PYB.

That said, the 3MZ-FE is an evolution of the sludge monster 1MZ-FE. I haven't heard of widespread sludging of the 3MZ-FE, but it may be a little more prone to do so than the average engine. First couple of oil changes, maybe go with PP, before settling on a good dino.

If your use involves what is considered severe, then use a synthetic. Severe would be extreme hot or cold ambient temperatures, extensive idling, frequent short trips without reaching operating temperature or towing.

Also note that Toyota has backspec'd 5W-20 as suitable on this engine. I believe they may have also backspec'd 0W-20. Regardless if they did or not, suitable viscosities are 5W-30, 0W-30, 5W-20 and 0W-20. The 0W-xx likely won't provide you much benefit in your climate anyway.

For filters, I recommend either the Toyota/Denso or Napa Gold. Both good filters for this engine and for the money.

 

[addyguy]

That SLX deal is amazing - jump on that for sure!

.....but I think you might find it's 6L for $30 - most syns come in 6L cases, not 12L.

The Rotella T5 0W-30 is also a great deal at $4/L. Persoannly, that's the one I'd get. 0W-30 HDEO's are great oils for all conditions.

 

[HTSS_TR]

I would jump on Castro SLX synthetic 5w30, you can not beat the price of less than $3/L. Make sure you check every bottle/container to be sure it wasn't open before or at the very least doesn't contain used oil.

 

[Tikon]

The Castro SLX Pro is sold. The ad was posted yesterday. Ignorance is expensive!

In the future, should I try 0w-XX? If yes, which one, 0W-20 or 0W-30? What brand, Mobile 1 or something else?

How about this deal--CASTROL SYNTHETIC OIL, TXT 505.01, 7 LITERS for $45? How suitable it is for my 04 Sienna? Am I wrong to think that 505.01 is made for VW?

I am having the feeling that the more I know by asking questions, the little I know.

 

[OldCowboy]

ANY xW-30 oil will be fine for that engine. The only difference in 0W, 5W, and 10W is in cold weather. They are all 30 weight oil at normal engine operating temperature.

Severe Service: If you do a lot of short trip driving (i.e. less than 15 km) then use a non-synthetic and change the oil every 5000 km.

Normal Service: If most of your trips are 15 km or more then use a non-synthetic or synthetic blend and change the oil every 10000 km.

If you are going to spend the money on a full synthetic oil, then plan on doing a UOA (used oil analysis) at either 5000 km (severe service) or 10000 km (normal service) and base your oil change intervals (OCIs) on the results of the UOA.

 

[CarNewb]

We have the exact same car and from what ive seen, our van loves Valvoline White Bottle and Pennzoil Yellow Bottle. I have run the old SL flavor QS winter synblend 5w30 and that was good so this winter ill either run my stash of SM Pennzoil Platinum or Rotella T5 0W30. But so far the car is easy on any oil and doesnt require any makeup oil.

 

[CaspianM]

0w-xx was not a good choice for my 03 Sienna. The engine when cold sounded bad. I never was able to find out the source of rattle but when I switched to 5W-30 it stopped.
Amoung many oil that I have tried M1 5W030EP, Castrol syntec or Edge have worked best in terms of MPG, smoothness and quietness. I have always used OEM filter since I get them cheap. $4.00 from my local Toyota dealer.
AFA sludge.. I believe there was a fix by Toyota in late 2001 and then after models..

 

[weebl]

Originally Posted By: CaspianM
0w-xx was not a good choice for my 03 Sienna. The engine when cold sounded bad. I never was able to find out the source of rattle but when I switched to 5W-30 it stopped.
Amoung many oil that I have tried M1 5W030EP, Castrol syntec or Edge have worked best in terms of MPG, smoothness and quietness. I have always used OEM filter since I get them cheap. $4.00 from my local Toyota dealer.
AFA sludge.. I believe there was a fix by Toyota in late 2001 and then after models..


Was the '03s the 3.0L 1MZ-FE?

Yes, I believe their fix was to replace rubber oil lines with metal ones. The rubber ones I think had a tendency to get pinched/collapse, blocking oil flow and contributing to the formation of sludge.

 

[Quest]

@OP:

Your vechicle still needs to go through aircare every 2 years or no?

What's the HC reading on it? pass or fail (or borderline)?

I'd change it with Castrol GTX from wallymart if I were you (for the 1st couple of changes, just to see how the engine behaves and also to see if previous owner has added oil thickeners to "calm" some noise, mask some mech issues, etc.

I personally don't believe in buying motor oil from craigslist, citing too many scammers on it nowadays.

Q. (not too far from you)

 

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: weebl

I believe their fix was to replace rubber oil lines with metal ones. The rubber ones I think had a tendency to get pinched/collapse, blocking oil flow and contributing to the formation of sludge.

The Toyota engine with the external oil line is the 3.5L GR series V/6 used in the newer 07 and up Siennas (among many other models). Toyota has replaced the rubber oil line with metal because the rubber one had a bad habit of cracking and blowing the oil out.
To fix the sludge problem with the earlier engine, when Toyota enlarged MZ series V/6 from 3.0L to 3.3L in mid 2003 they changed the cylinder head design and made some internal changes to the oiling system, cooling passages, and oil return passages. They also reduced the recommended OCIs from 7500 miles to 5000 miles.
The 3.3L V/6 makes a characteristic noise when it is cold. From about 2400 to 2800 RPMs there is a rattle that comes from the VVT mechanism. I have tried different oils to see if I could reduce or eliminate the rattle but it didn't make any difference. The noise is only there for a couple of minutes after a cold start and it is normal, so I have learned to live with it.

 

[lexus114]

Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: weebl

I believe their fix was to replace rubber oil lines with metal ones. The rubber ones I think had a tendency to get


formation of sludge.

The Toyota engine with the external oil line is the 3.5L GR series V/6 used in the newer 07 and up Siennas (among many other models). Toyota has replaced the rubber oil line with metal because the rubber one had a bad habit of cracking and blowing the oil out.
To fix the sludge problem with the earlier engine, when Toyota enlarged MZ series V/6 from 3.0L to 3.3L in mid 2003 they changed the cylinder head design and made some internal changes to the oiling system, cooling passages, and oil return passages. They also reduced the recommended OCIs from 7500 miles to 5000 miles.
The 3.3L V/6 makes a characteristic noise when it is cold. From about 2400 to 2800 RPMs there is a rattle that comes from the VVT mechanism. I have tried different oils to see if I could reduce or eliminate the rattle but it didn't make any difference. The noise is only there for a couple of minutes after a cold start and it is normal, so I have learned to live with it.



Mine only did this when I switched to Synthetic.

 

[CaspianM]

Originally Posted By: wag123
Originally Posted By: weebl

I believe their fix was to replace rubber oil lines with metal ones. The rubber ones I think had a tendency to get pinched/collapse, blocking oil flow and contributing to the formation of sludge.

The Toyota engine with the external oil line is the 3.5L GR series V/6 used in the newer 07 and up Siennas (among many other models). Toyota has replaced the rubber oil line with metal because the rubber one had a bad habit of cracking and blowing the oil out.
To fix the sludge problem with the earlier engine, when Toyota enlarged MZ series V/6 from 3.0L to 3.3L in mid 2003 they changed the cylinder head design and made some internal changes to the oiling system, cooling passages, and oil return passages. They also reduced the recommended OCIs from 7500 miles to 5000 miles.
The 3.3L V/6 makes a characteristic noise when it is cold. From about 2400 to 2800 RPMs there is a rattle that comes from the VVT mechanism. I have tried different oils to see if I could reduce or eliminate the rattle but it didn't make any difference. The noise is only there for a couple of minutes after a cold start and it is normal, so I have learned to live with it.


Those changes were on 04 model.
On 2001~3 Toyota installed oil cooler in valve assembly chamber and they were not qualified for their extended warranty any more.
I had also the 87 v6 Camry but I never had any sludge issue and was sold last year with 120k miles.