Valvoline Maxlife 10w40

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Oct 22, 2003
Messages
13,131
Location
By Detroit
This is straight Maxlife 10w40 with NO additives:

F150 300 cid inline six with 108,528 miles at oil sample time. Oil has 3012 miles on it. Typical driving is 15 mile trips. Blackstone comments:

"PAUL: Your first-ever oil analysis looks great! The universal averages column shows typical wear from a Ford 4.9L V-6 engine after about 3200 miles on the oil. Your oil was in use 3012 miles, and your wear levels are reading well below those averages. You could run this oil longer, if you wanted to. We'd suggest trying 4500 miles for the next oil change. Your engine can take it! The oil can take it! Your oil & air filtration systems are working well too--note silicon and insolubles. All in all, things look great. Check back next oil change to establish solid wear trends."

Aluminum 3
Chromium 1
Iron 7
Copper 6
Lead 4
Tin 0
Moly 0
Nickel 0
Manganese 0
Silver 0
Titanium 0
Potassium 0
Boron 2
Silicon 12
Sodium 4
Calcium 2382
Magnesium 10
Phosphorus 732
Zinc 881
Barium 0

210F SUS Viscosity: 68.2
Flashpoint: 385
Fuel: Antifreeze: 0.0
Water: 0.0
Insolubles: 0.4

I think I will run this to the 4500 miles they suggest. So I am wondering if I should top up with:

STP 6000 Mile Oil Extender to beef up the zinc phosphorus which is much lower than the Valvoline tech data sheets say is is for new Maxlife.

Maxlife Engine Protector which includes moly and would thicken the oil up a bit, since the SUS viscosity by my conversion chart says it is about 12.5 cSt or down from the spec sheet for this oil, which says 13.5 cSt.

Or just top up with more Maxlife 10w40?

What about their comment to do another UOA next oil change to establish wear patterns? I likely would be using a different oil, Durablend, next change and should the next UOA also be at 3000 miles? Do I need to do that or just be happy with what I have here and do it again next year?

Thanks

[ March 29, 2004, 08:46 PM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
 
I would just top it off with the regular oil. This is a very good report. You can do an oil analysis at 4500 miles next time even with another brand. This looks like a good engine. Its your choice what to do with the analysis thing. For most of us its an obsessive habit. Whatever you do you will be fine at 4500 miles.

[ March 29, 2004, 10:06 PM: Message edited by: Al ]
 
I went ahead and topped up with the remaining 12 oz Maxlife 10w40.

I am suprised there was not more comment on this thread (I know it's only been 14 hours since I posted this UOA), especially since Valvoline is not a favorite of this site. Would love to hear more comments from the BIOTG folks--positive or negative. Have at it.

This Maxlife 10w40 is great stuff (that ought to get a reaction from BITOG folks
grin.gif
). But seriously, in 3000 miles on a 6.5 qt fill it only used 1/2 quart. That is excellent IMHO.

[ March 30, 2004, 11:28 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
 
Thanks, Also for a 10w40 the viscosity held up remarkably well. Now I am having second thoughts about running the Valvoline Durablend 15w40 for the summer, but I will. Then I probably will go back to the Max. Intereresting idea to run Maxlife 10w30 with the Engine Protector. Wonder what that gets you--a 10w40? Love to see an analysis on that.
 
Just curious, did you have any oil leaks you were trying to stop with the MaxLife?

Right now I'm running MaxLife 10w30 in my 1999 Suburban 5.7L, trying to stop a small leak...it's been in only about 10 days with about 300 miles on it. The MaxLife did an excellent job stopping a leak in my 1993 Chevy Silverado 5.0L.

Previous to the MaxLife in the Suburban, over the past 3 months I tried the Mobil Drive Clean Plus 10w30 high mileage formula to stop the same leak...used it instead of the MaxLife due to the underwhelming opinions on here concerning Valvoline oils...the Mobil did nothing to stop the leak.

Yes, I do realize I could have a leak that's too big to be stopped by a motor oil additive....but I wanted to at least try, given the great results with MaxLife on my pickup a couple of years ago.

One other thing re: Bluebird....where did you get the info concerning MaxLife being 12-22% Group IV? This bit of info goes a long way toward improving my opinion of Valvoline oils....otherwise I tend to agree with the some of the others that the add pack could be improved.

[ March 30, 2004, 01:31 PM: Message edited by: cheeks ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by cheeks:
Just curious, did you have any oil leaks you were trying to stop with the MaxLife?

No leaks of any significance if any, that is, no drips on the ground, just the usual staining around some of the seams. I went to Maxlife because I don't want this politically correct starburst/energy conserving oil in my crankcase. Just a personal issue, but I'm going to have it my way.
wink.gif


I recently searched this site for the CAS numbers off the MSDS on Maxlife. I couldn't come up with anything conclusive, but it seemed Maxlife was a Group I base oil with some PAO added. I could be wrong and hope I am wrong, because many are saying it is a Group II and well it should be for the price. Bottom line, though, is I am a Valvoline nut and probably always will use Valvoline (just not All Climate).

Next change will be Valvoline Durablend 15w40 just because I want to try a 15w40.
 
What? Nobody? I'll tell you why I don't like Vavoline, or at least why I choose M1 over it and don't feed me the cost difference factor. If you noticed my 02 Accord UOA thread, look at the difference. The ZDDP amounts are higher with M1, that's with a vehicle with more miles on the UOA. The lead is coming in higher than 1 ppm per 1K miles with Maxlife, too high. Calcium is higher with M1 as well. All this PLUS MOLY. I'll pass on the Valvoline. IMHO, it doesn't offer the same level of protection. I feel, as others have in the past of this oil, that a better oil is out there. Also, why would you want additives? There are better and cheaper oils around.

[ March 30, 2004, 02:09 PM: Message edited by: Schmoe ]
 
I don't care for valvoline. Why???? Because I think there are better oils for the money. I would choose Pennzoil or castrol High mileage over max-life. Does that mean that valvoline won't get the job done?.......no, valvoline will work fine, but if you can get something better for the same price.........why not?

IIRC,the high mileage oils have Group V oil (esters for seal swelling and cleansing)in them......not Group IV.
 
Cheeks ,
From the MSDS i used a little deductive reasoning:
Synpower Oil has 53 % - 63% CAS # 64742-54-7
Durablend Oil has 23% - 33% CAS # 64742-54-7
Hydrotreated Heavy Paraffinic Distillate ...these would be group III

Maxlife Oil has 12% - 22% CAS # 68037-01-4
Synthetic Lubricating Oil ... Group IV , plus i learned from another discusscion about additives i have going on that CAS # 68037 is PAO.
 
Schmoe and SBC350gearhead: You guys might sway me yet. I did wonder why the zinc phosphorus were so low. Do they deplete over time? Anyway, I have four bottles of STP oil extender ZDDP additive to use up, which will get me thorough my Maxlife stock. I suppose I could eventually change to another brand. BITOG discussion did get me off Rislone Engine Treatment. The Maxlife 10w40 has some good, if not outstanding, properties, but also some apparent weaknesses.
 
quote:

Originally posted by novadude:
Maxlife is A-OK. Look at the wear numbers... how much ZDDP do you really need??? Why change?

Not changing, yet, if at all. Like I said, I am a Valvoline nut, but I thought the low ZDDP was for GF-4 oils, but maybe the calcium makes up for it. It will take a lot to make me change, though it is possible. Thanks.
 
Thank you, Bluebird.

Glad you're the one with the deductive reasoning....I wouldn't be able to "deduce" anything from that info
grin.gif


That's why there are people on this board like me who receive a lot more than they are able to contribute, unfortunately.
 
You know, if this was a Redline oil analysis it seems that there would be many people saying it was a great result from a great oil, but since it is a Valvoline product there is the usual chorus of bad mouthing.

Harumph!

John
 
quote:

Originally posted by TallPaul:



Would love to hear more comments from the BIOTG folks--positive or negative. Have at it.



Paul I'm glad you pulled an analysis cause I've told you directly and indirectly if you wanted to you a heavier oil that a HD Diesel oil was not the ticket and now you can see why .

The PAO in the Maxlife acted more like a cold start aiding additive here since you have great results running through winter as you did .

These results are excellent but I'm confused if or not it was a running sample . If so and the truck were mine I would spin the filter off and run it on up aways for fun ...but thats me .

Thats STP stuff they don't make anylonger . Give to a neighbor
grin.gif


Valvoline no lookee so bad in this motor and how ir's driven .
 
quote:

Originally posted by Motorbike:
Paul I'm glad you pulled an analysis cause I've told you directly and indirectly if you wanted to you a heavier oil that a HD Diesel oil was not the ticket and now you can see why .

Thanks, I have resisted going with a Diesel motor oil for various reasons. I am planning to run 15w40 next for the summere, but it is Valvoline Maxlife, a PCEO. Assume this shows I don't need a diesel oil because PCEO is adequate. I am quite happy how the 10w40 held its viscosity almost to the spec sheet level.

quote:

The PAO in the Maxlife acted more like a cold start aiding additive here since you have great results running through winter as you did .

Well I cheated a bit. Had a 250 watt oil pan heater for all early morning cold starts, but did see some afternoon cold starts down to around 10F, of course that did not have a long time for cold soak.

quote:

These results are excellent but I'm confused if or not it was a running sample . If so and the truck were mine I would spin the filter off and run it on up aways for fun ...but thats me .

It is a running sample and I overzealously drained off about 1/2 quart before I took the sample and so it now has nearly a quart of fresh oil in it. I am at 3300 miles and plannning to go the whole 4500 miles. Not sure what you mean on the filter? Drain it and reinstall it? Replace it? Analyze it? I plan to leave it alone since it is the big one (Wix version of the 7-inch FL299).

quote:

Thats STP stuff they don't make anylonger . Give to a neighbor
grin.gif


I just can't stand it. Gotta play with something. I think the STP extender was their best product ever. Mainly because it is not a thick gooey mess like their oil treatment. And I couldn't stand it until I put half a bottle in. At this point it can't hurt, may help. But you are right, I have to wean myself from these additives. Just the oil should be enough.

quote:

Valvoline no lookee so bad in this motor and how ir's driven .

I do like Valvoline. So does NAPA. Hey I was just at the NAPA store and they have high mileage for $1.79 and the guy said it is the same as Maxlife. I wonder. Also they had a new NAPA (Ashland) oil: 15w50 Full Synthetic. Wow! That sounds like a great oil. About $3.50 a quart is a deal too.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Schmoe:
The ZDDP amounts are higher with M1, that's with a vehicle with more miles on the UOA.

Maybe so, but look at the recent virgin sample of the Chevron Supreme 10w30, a brand highly regarded at BIOTG:
http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=11;t=000121#000012
Zinc is only 879 and Phosphorus is only 732. My Valvoline has about that much after 3000 miles. Guess the Valvo stands up pretty good next to Chevron and that's saying a lot. Yeah the Chev has moly but it does not look like much and the Chevron is cheaper, though I supposedly can get the Maxlife under NAPA label for $1.79.

Not sure about the iron. Is 7 really that high?

[ March 31, 2004, 12:18 AM: Message edited by: TallPaul ]
 
Well you know im using it . I'm using 10w-30 and adding 8oz of MLEP instead of using 10w-40. Maxlife is 12% to 22% group IV oil and with the MLEP additive im thinking this could be great oil.
10w-40 sure seems to be working in your truck, 4500 to 5000 is a interval im looking to do too.
 
Looks fine. Not a lot to comment on here. If you like Maxlife, why not run it to 4,500 and stay with that?

I think the level of insolubles would be a limiting factor to going too much beyond 4.5K

I don't think the Engine Protector or STP would gain you a thing. Wear looks good.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top