I use a little Syntec 5w-30 and Rem-oil
Best gun oil?
- Thread starter DrDusty86
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I have a mix of M1 0W-20 and Break-Free
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Me,I`ve been using Royal Purple Max Film and Rem Oil for my 380.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Hoppes works REALLY well.
No it doesn't.
I got into a new quart of regular Hoppe's #9. This stuff doesn't clean worth a hoot. In fact it really hit me on the second round of cleaning, that after cleaning I still had residue from the last cleaning and it won't budge. In fact even Amsoil MP cleaned some of the junk off that the NEW Hoppe's #9 wouldn't touch. Another good product gone to pot.
I'll give something else a try...........
Hoppes works REALLY well.
No it doesn't.
I got into a new quart of regular Hoppe's #9. This stuff doesn't clean worth a hoot. In fact it really hit me on the second round of cleaning, that after cleaning I still had residue from the last cleaning and it won't budge. In fact even Amsoil MP cleaned some of the junk off that the NEW Hoppe's #9 wouldn't touch. Another good product gone to pot.
I'll give something else a try...........
They did change the formula a while back for Hoppe's #9. They took some of the really bad stuff out. It seems to work pretty well for me. But some range guys now recommend stuff like the Winchester Powder Blaster. I might be willing to use that stuff (outside) in the bore of the barrel, but not on the entire guy. Maybe try the Winchester Powder Blaster spray in the bore of your gun barrels and see what you think.
I have a S&W M&P 9 mm. There is a part in the striker assembly that is not supposed to have any carbon, oil, grease, or oil on it. So I use Hoppe's Elite gun cleaner on that area of the gun. But a bottle of Hoppe's Elite does not last very long, so I use it only in that area.
I have a S&W M&P 9 mm. There is a part in the striker assembly that is not supposed to have any carbon, oil, grease, or oil on it. So I use Hoppe's Elite gun cleaner on that area of the gun. But a bottle of Hoppe's Elite does not last very long, so I use it only in that area.
whale oil... Hard to get now a days though.
Think i'll just stick to good 'ol RemOil. Has never let me down
I have dealt with conditions like Kuwait and Iraq, and live in Las Vegas, where there is almost a constant breeze blowing a baby powder fine dust into the Valley those lubes do not cut it. I have worked on too many firearms that were lubed with Remoil,Hoppes etc and it's a nightmare at times. At least there is large amounts of coating removal from the slide, to completely wearing guns out. So many of these lubes have vaporized off the barrel, and other items... I don't know how I can convince you guys, there really IS a difference between sporting goods store / Walmart lubricants, and the exotics like Gunbutter and SlideGLide, which BOTH have proven to save lives in the sandbox.
So if you buy by price and availability, I guess that is how much your life may be worth.
At least check out the Gunbutter site, there are some cool videos , some great testimonials and some great info.
So if you buy by price and availability, I guess that is how much your life may be worth.
At least check out the Gunbutter site, there are some cool videos , some great testimonials and some great info.
Originally Posted By: Thingfish
So if you buy by price and availability, I guess that is how much your life may be worth.
At least check out the Gunbutter site, there are some cool videos , some great testimonials and some great info.
Thank you. I shall try..
So if you buy by price and availability, I guess that is how much your life may be worth.
At least check out the Gunbutter site, there are some cool videos , some great testimonials and some great info.
Thank you. I shall try..
The best I've found is DiamondLube.
It actually embeds synthetic diamonds into the metal pores. Amazing how slick an action becomes after using a little of this.
Expensive, but I use very little.
NanoLube™ the Mechanical Lubricant™ with HyperDiamond®
It actually embeds synthetic diamonds into the metal pores. Amazing how slick an action becomes after using a little of this.
Expensive, but I use very little.
NanoLube™ the Mechanical Lubricant™ with HyperDiamond®
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
is REM oil and Hoppes #9 solvent good combo?
That's part of my regular routine. I will use whatever aerosol spray "action cleaner" is on sale be it Remington or whatever to spray the actions down. Then I use either Hoppes #9 or their semi-auto solvent to clean barrels. Then I lube with Rem oil. I do stay away from the old fashioned Hoppes oil as it just goes stale and gums up. I've never had that happen with RemOil and the stuff is readily available and never any rust in my guns.
There may be better lubes - but I'm happy with Rem Oil combined with a sensible gun maintenance schedule.
is REM oil and Hoppes #9 solvent good combo?
That's part of my regular routine. I will use whatever aerosol spray "action cleaner" is on sale be it Remington or whatever to spray the actions down. Then I use either Hoppes #9 or their semi-auto solvent to clean barrels. Then I lube with Rem oil. I do stay away from the old fashioned Hoppes oil as it just goes stale and gums up. I've never had that happen with RemOil and the stuff is readily available and never any rust in my guns.
There may be better lubes - but I'm happy with Rem Oil combined with a sensible gun maintenance schedule.
Originally Posted By: Thingfish
I have dealt with conditions like Kuwait and Iraq, and live in Las Vegas, where there is almost a constant breeze blowing a baby powder fine dust into the Valley those lubes do not cut it. I have worked on too many firearms that were lubed with Remoil,Hoppes etc and it's a nightmare at times. At least there is large amounts of coating removal from the slide, to completely wearing guns out. So many of these lubes have vaporized off the barrel, and other items... I don't know how I can convince you guys, there really IS a difference between sporting goods store / Walmart lubricants, and the exotics like Gunbutter and SlideGLide, which BOTH have proven to save lives in the sandbox.
So if you buy by price and availability, I guess that is how much your life may be worth.
At least check out the Gunbutter site, there are some cool videos , some great testimonials and some great info.
I am sure gunbutter and slideglide are fine lubes, but are you saying that the gov issued CLP is a no-go over in the sand box? (or in vegas)?
I have dealt with conditions like Kuwait and Iraq, and live in Las Vegas, where there is almost a constant breeze blowing a baby powder fine dust into the Valley those lubes do not cut it. I have worked on too many firearms that were lubed with Remoil,Hoppes etc and it's a nightmare at times. At least there is large amounts of coating removal from the slide, to completely wearing guns out. So many of these lubes have vaporized off the barrel, and other items... I don't know how I can convince you guys, there really IS a difference between sporting goods store / Walmart lubricants, and the exotics like Gunbutter and SlideGLide, which BOTH have proven to save lives in the sandbox.
So if you buy by price and availability, I guess that is how much your life may be worth.
At least check out the Gunbutter site, there are some cool videos , some great testimonials and some great info.
I am sure gunbutter and slideglide are fine lubes, but are you saying that the gov issued CLP is a no-go over in the sand box? (or in vegas)?
You will get all kinds of suggestions for best gun oil and I simply do not know what is the best. I have tried all kinds of stuff and I pretty much have settled on Hoppes No. 9 and Hoppes Elite for cleaning, and Breakfree for lubrication.
I personally believe in cleaning and lubricating a gun everytime after shooting. The oldtimers said to never leave a dirty gun sit overnight. Most people use too much solvent and too much oil. You can clean a gun pretty well just using clean cloth rags and some Hoppes No. 9 down the barrel. I have a Smith & Wesson Military & Police 9 mm, and I use Hoppes Elite on certain parts of the gun because there is a component in the striker assembly that should not have any oil, carbon, grease or oil on it. I also use Hoppes Elite if I have to clean indoors. Hoppes No. 9 stinks up a house.
I own a video about S&W M&P semi-autos and the professional gunsmith in the video says that Breakfree is still the best gun oil. A lot of other gunsmiths seem to prefer Breakfree. I don't know if it makes all that much difference. But RemOil seems too thin for me. I figure Breakfree is about as good as anything else. And I can get it locally and not have to order through the internet, or pay for some expensive product with claims that is supposed to be magical and who really knows if it is magical or not.
I once owned a gun that would malfunction if I used Breakfree. If I used any other kind of oil, such as Hoppes, it functioned fine. Weird, but that is a true story. I stopped using Breakfree for a long time after that but I have never had a problem like that since with any other gun.
There are of course guns that require something else. For example, the M1 rifle required grease.
I apply gun oil using Q-Tips. They are cheap and it keeps you from applying too much oil. Oil just the areas you are supposed to oil and put a little oil on any metal that is shiny (indicating that it needs to be oiled). Don't get oil into areas it does not need to be.
If you clean a gun right it only takes a short time to clean and oil a gun. And you don't have to buy all kinds of strange expensive stuff or use extremely powerful solvents or 'magical' gun oils. RemOil, Breakfree, or Hoppes would all work for oil. I often use almost no solvent to clean a gun except for a little down the gun barrel. And only a few drops of oil.
Cleaning and lubricating this way I have never had a malfunction (except for deliberately setup malfunctions) shooting thousands of rounds of ammunition. So it seems to work.
I personally believe in cleaning and lubricating a gun everytime after shooting. The oldtimers said to never leave a dirty gun sit overnight. Most people use too much solvent and too much oil. You can clean a gun pretty well just using clean cloth rags and some Hoppes No. 9 down the barrel. I have a Smith & Wesson Military & Police 9 mm, and I use Hoppes Elite on certain parts of the gun because there is a component in the striker assembly that should not have any oil, carbon, grease or oil on it. I also use Hoppes Elite if I have to clean indoors. Hoppes No. 9 stinks up a house.
I own a video about S&W M&P semi-autos and the professional gunsmith in the video says that Breakfree is still the best gun oil. A lot of other gunsmiths seem to prefer Breakfree. I don't know if it makes all that much difference. But RemOil seems too thin for me. I figure Breakfree is about as good as anything else. And I can get it locally and not have to order through the internet, or pay for some expensive product with claims that is supposed to be magical and who really knows if it is magical or not.
I once owned a gun that would malfunction if I used Breakfree. If I used any other kind of oil, such as Hoppes, it functioned fine. Weird, but that is a true story. I stopped using Breakfree for a long time after that but I have never had a problem like that since with any other gun.
There are of course guns that require something else. For example, the M1 rifle required grease.
I apply gun oil using Q-Tips. They are cheap and it keeps you from applying too much oil. Oil just the areas you are supposed to oil and put a little oil on any metal that is shiny (indicating that it needs to be oiled). Don't get oil into areas it does not need to be.
If you clean a gun right it only takes a short time to clean and oil a gun. And you don't have to buy all kinds of strange expensive stuff or use extremely powerful solvents or 'magical' gun oils. RemOil, Breakfree, or Hoppes would all work for oil. I often use almost no solvent to clean a gun except for a little down the gun barrel. And only a few drops of oil.
Cleaning and lubricating this way I have never had a malfunction (except for deliberately setup malfunctions) shooting thousands of rounds of ammunition. So it seems to work.
The one thing I better add to this is that in certain parts of the world, like in Iraq, there is so much fine dust that conventional oils and grease might not work very well. In conditions like that people have used various dry lubrication products or like Thingfish says, something like Gunbutter. I tried Gunbutter and I did not like it.
But in the USA except maybe in certain desert areas I think what I said above is good enough.
In extreme cold some lubricates will not work well. They had problems in very cold weather in World War II with the grease in the M1 rifle. Synthetic lubrication that can flow in extreme cold would help.
The stuff that I stay away from are all of these supposedly magical products that usually contain some sort of potentially dangerous chemicals that may have a cancer risk to the gunowner. I will buy a new gun before I will risk getting cancer. The gun is replaceable. Or you see people use very poweful solvents on guns that are not dirty enough to justify such powerful solvents. At least go outside and don't use stuff like that in your house!
I like to keep it simple. I am not in Iraq and I am not shooting my gun in -40 weather conditions.
If you do not wipe the gun down before spraying all kinds of solvent all over it you will have a mess. Try it and see. Spray Hoppes No. 9 or some over solvent all over a dirty gun without wiping the gun down first and you will see for yourself what kind of a mess you are creating. Just wiping the gun down with clean rags is usally good enough to clean most guns except for the barrel bore.
But in the USA except maybe in certain desert areas I think what I said above is good enough.
In extreme cold some lubricates will not work well. They had problems in very cold weather in World War II with the grease in the M1 rifle. Synthetic lubrication that can flow in extreme cold would help.
The stuff that I stay away from are all of these supposedly magical products that usually contain some sort of potentially dangerous chemicals that may have a cancer risk to the gunowner. I will buy a new gun before I will risk getting cancer. The gun is replaceable. Or you see people use very poweful solvents on guns that are not dirty enough to justify such powerful solvents. At least go outside and don't use stuff like that in your house!
I like to keep it simple. I am not in Iraq and I am not shooting my gun in -40 weather conditions.
If you do not wipe the gun down before spraying all kinds of solvent all over it you will have a mess. Try it and see. Spray Hoppes No. 9 or some over solvent all over a dirty gun without wiping the gun down first and you will see for yourself what kind of a mess you are creating. Just wiping the gun down with clean rags is usally good enough to clean most guns except for the barrel bore.
Originally Posted By: SOHCman
Originally Posted By: Thingfish
I have dealt with conditions like Kuwait and Iraq, and live in Las Vegas, where there is almost a constant breeze blowing a baby powder fine dust into the Valley those lubes do not cut it. I have worked on too many firearms that were lubed with Remoil,Hoppes etc and it's a nightmare at times. At least there is large amounts of coating removal from the slide, to completely wearing guns out. So many of these lubes have vaporized off the barrel, and other items... I don't know how I can convince you guys, there really IS a difference between sporting goods store / Walmart lubricants, and the exotics like Gunbutter and SlideGLide, which BOTH have proven to save lives in the sandbox.
So if you buy by price and availability, I guess that is how much your life may be worth.
At least check out the Gunbutter site, there are some cool videos , some great testimonials and some great info.
I am sure gunbutter and slideglide are fine lubes, but are you saying that the gov issued CLP is a no-go over in the sand box? (or in vegas)?
I am going to tip toe around that question as I used issued lubricants when I served in the first Gulf war, and weapons were cleaned constantly,yet were still somewhat unreliable.
I can tell you that the exotics last longer in brutal conditions and honestly,even if it's placebo I just feel better about putting an exotic on my firearms, especially with the money invested in my collection. I have searched out what works for me best, and have a box of some of the best and worst lubes to prove it.
To be 100% honest and fair, I am a personal friend of the owner of an exotic blender but will not say which. I buy my lube at the local gun store, do not receive anything from him, and am in no way here to promote any lubricant. Shoot, I love 0/40 Mobil1 on my 1911 rails.
Originally Posted By: Thingfish
I have dealt with conditions like Kuwait and Iraq, and live in Las Vegas, where there is almost a constant breeze blowing a baby powder fine dust into the Valley those lubes do not cut it. I have worked on too many firearms that were lubed with Remoil,Hoppes etc and it's a nightmare at times. At least there is large amounts of coating removal from the slide, to completely wearing guns out. So many of these lubes have vaporized off the barrel, and other items... I don't know how I can convince you guys, there really IS a difference between sporting goods store / Walmart lubricants, and the exotics like Gunbutter and SlideGLide, which BOTH have proven to save lives in the sandbox.
So if you buy by price and availability, I guess that is how much your life may be worth.
At least check out the Gunbutter site, there are some cool videos , some great testimonials and some great info.
I am sure gunbutter and slideglide are fine lubes, but are you saying that the gov issued CLP is a no-go over in the sand box? (or in vegas)?
I am going to tip toe around that question as I used issued lubricants when I served in the first Gulf war, and weapons were cleaned constantly,yet were still somewhat unreliable.
I can tell you that the exotics last longer in brutal conditions and honestly,even if it's placebo I just feel better about putting an exotic on my firearms, especially with the money invested in my collection. I have searched out what works for me best, and have a box of some of the best and worst lubes to prove it.
To be 100% honest and fair, I am a personal friend of the owner of an exotic blender but will not say which. I buy my lube at the local gun store, do not receive anything from him, and am in no way here to promote any lubricant. Shoot, I love 0/40 Mobil1 on my 1911 rails.
Ok i don't think this one has been discussed yet, but I like slide glide. Oils are to this to actually protect your metal parts and the TW-25 is great for your internals but for the slide the slide glide is great. I purity on thick when I go shoot and really light if its meant to defend.
http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html
http://brianenos.com/pages/slide-glide.html
bperry,
I can't find an MSDS anywhere for Slide-Glide and Mr. Enos won't give one to me. He says it is a dual soap grease with some EP additives, but we will never know for sure.
Brad
I can't find an MSDS anywhere for Slide-Glide and Mr. Enos won't give one to me. He says it is a dual soap grease with some EP additives, but we will never know for sure.
Brad
Clarification.. I was told his manufacturer prefers to only give the MSDS to distributors. Didn't mean to speak poorly of Brian Enos, not my intent at all, I am sorry if that was implied!
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