Sportster oil for engine & trans/primary

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I have a '06 sportster 1200 Custom and I'm not sure what to use for oil in the crankcase or the primary/transmission I've heard all sorts of opinions I want to hear from people what have you used and what worked or didn't work? I'm looking at mobil1 vtwin 20w-50 or valvoline vtwin 20w50 also heard rotella and valvoline vr1 are good too. advice please?
 
Mobil One V-Twin 20W-50, Valvoline RACING 20W-50, or Valvoline 20W-50 4-stroke MC oil for the crankcase. Some will chime in for Amsoil as well. HD formula+, Spectro Chaincase or even the above oils for the Tranny. Gear oil can also be used if its GL1 rated NOT gl5.
 
Because the Sportster's primary and transmission share a common sump, be careful what you put in there. I found Formula+ gave me excellent clutch and shift feel in my 07 Sportster.
 
Hmm... I'm liking amsoil but the availability (off the shelf)thing kinda make it hard to see fit. I've heard clutch slipping troubles from some using anything other than formula+ just can't see spending $8/QT granted I only need 1qt but would rather use a synthetic at that price or a cheaper Dino alternative.
 
If you're wanting to stay with dino in the trans/primary...find a local independent shop and pick up a quart of Revtech gear and chaincase lube. Retails in the catalog for $5.49. But most indies will sell it cheaper.
 
I am new to the Sportster world,but when I bought my 2004 1200 custom I used mobil twin 20w50 in both holes and it runs and shifts great.My next change will be valvoline vr1 synthetic in the engine(because of the free case rebate) and probably still use molil v twin in primary.I have thought about using rotella 15w40 in primary and also found that napa carries a gl-1 lube in gallon jug.Anyone have opinions on these in the primary?
 
Your sporty is a generation newer than mine, but Formula+ is the only thing I've used that doesn't cause the clutch to stick, since HD discountinued Sport-Trans fluid. I've tried HD SYN3 and M1 V-Twin. As far as the engine, I've run M1 V-Twin since break in. Any quality oil in the proper weight will be fine for the engine. I think the FI Evos run leaner, so you'll want something that can take the heat.
 
would really be curious to see how that gl-1 lube would work but the rotella seems to be a common ground will try that probably then keep them coming though I like hearing the different thoughts on this topic.
 
Originally Posted By: cbear
Your sporty is a generation newer than mine, but Formula+ is the only thing I've used that doesn't cause the clutch to stick, since HD discountinued Sport-Trans fluid. I've tried HD SYN3 and M1 V-Twin. As far as the engine, I've run M1 V-Twin since break in. Any quality oil in the proper weight will be fine for the engine. I think the FI Evos run leaner, so you'll want something that can take the heat.


The Harley shop near me is loaded with the Sports-trans fluid.Is it better/worse than the Formula+?I have not looked at the price on it.
 
Originally Posted By: Jjones
The Harley shop near me is loaded with the Sports-trans fluid.Is it better/worse than the Formula+?I have not looked at the price on it.

It was specifically designed for the Sportster tranny, vs a catchall that can be used on all the bikes. As far as the newest Sportsters, I don't know if they redesigned them in any significate way that Formula+ would be preferred. (I doubt it though)
 
Formula+ is nothing more than a 50 weight mineral oil with virtually no additives.

Virgin Oil Analysis - HD Formula+

Eh, but don't fret - most (automotive) manual transmission lubes are like this (but thinner) and they never even change the fluid. What this means is that your Harley transmission is not a candidate for high-tech lubrication.

We are currently using Valvoline VR1 Racing Conventional oil 20W50 in Sportster crankcases and transmission/primaries.

You can use the Mobil 1 V-Twin 20W-50 in that shared transmission. Same for Amsoil MCV. You could probably use Rotella conventional 15W-40.

Do not use gear oil. Gear oil may not be friendly to yellow metals and your stator (copper windings) is in the primary chaincase. Just sayin'

There are a lot of things you could use in the shared transmission/primary. Think about it this way - most japanese bikes have a sump where everything shares the same oil and they typically run a xW-40 grade oil. The newer ones are spec'ing a 10W-30 oil.

Crankcase? Kinda depends on how often you want to change the oil.
Believe it or not, there's a UOA here that shows Genuine HD 360 conventional oil after 5,000 miles and it performed well. Valvoline VR1 Racing Conventional oil also does well. Oh, and you should probably stick with the manufacturer's recommendation of 20W-50
 
When my kid had an '07 883 I did all the service on it and used Syn3 in the engine and Formula+ in the tranny/primary. If I was still maintaining it (traded it awhile back) I'd be using what I use in my '07 Electra Glide- VR1 20W-50 dino in the engine and either F+ or Rotella 15W-40 in the tranny. The Sporty always liked F+ in the pri/tranny, so I'd likely stick to that. Get your VR1 on sale for $2.50-$3/qt & you'll save 20-25 bucks over M1-VT and still have a top shelf oil in the motor. Then $8 for the F+ doesn't seem so much.

VR1 vs M1-VT & Syn3 in a Harley...
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1967684#Post1967684
It is what it is...
wink.gif
 
anyone have a good idea for the filter for a sporty I've heard it has to be one for use on a sporty or the bypass will kick in?
 
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Do not use gear oil. Gear oil may not be friendly to yellow metals and your stator (copper windings) is in the primary chaincase. Just sayin'


This is why I said if you use a gear oil, use GL1, NOT GL5...
 
Originally Posted By: Tim H.
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Do not use gear oil. Gear oil may not be friendly to yellow metals and your stator (copper windings) is in the primary chaincase. Just sayin'


This is why I said if you use a gear oil, use GL1, NOT GL5...


I found a napa brand that says gl-3,gl-4,gl-5....I am going to assume there is something added to stop the problems with the yellow metals.How do these gear oils work with a clutch?How would the plain gl-1 oil work with a clutch?
 
Originally Posted By: Jjones
Originally Posted By: Tim H.
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Do not use gear oil. Gear oil may not be friendly to yellow metals and your stator (copper windings) is in the primary chaincase. Just sayin'


This is why I said if you use a gear oil, use GL1, NOT GL5...


I found a napa brand that says gl-3,gl-4,gl-5....I am going to assume there is something added to stop the problems with the yellow metals.How do these gear oils work with a clutch?How would the plain gl-1 oil work with a clutch?


Do NOT use any type gear oil in the Sportster tranny. It's almost impossible to find plain GL-1 any more anyway.
 
Originally Posted By: G-MAN
Originally Posted By: Jjones
Originally Posted By: Tim H.
Originally Posted By: kballowe
Do not use gear oil. Gear oil may not be friendly to yellow metals and your stator (copper windings) is in the primary chaincase. Just sayin'


This is why I said if you use a gear oil, use GL1, NOT GL5...


I found a napa brand that says gl-3,gl-4,gl-5....I am going to assume there is something added to stop the problems with the yellow metals.How do these gear oils work with a clutch?How would the plain gl-1 oil work with a clutch?


Do NOT use any type gear oil in the Sportster tranny. It's almost impossible to find plain GL-1 any more anyway.


Napa has it by the gallons for $9.99
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Jjones
Napa has it by the gallons for $9.99


If the ONLY rating on the jug is GL-1 it would be okay. Any other ratings and it's a no-go.

One of the reasons I like my Big Twin is the separate primary. I can run ATF in that and GL-5 in the transmission.
 
Yes the only rating is gl-1.Would there be any benefit to use this over a 50w motor oil?Would most of today's 50w motor oil meet the gl-1 specs?I know motor oil does not use gl ratings but the oils that claim to be ok do not have a gl-1 rating
 
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