AC compressor LOUD rattling / kicking on and off?

[SOHCman]

99 Taurus, 3.0 24valve OHC Duratech. The rattling was so loud I thought all the lifters had failed and the valve train was eating itself!

Luckily, its "just" the AC compressor making all the racket. Even with the AC completely shut off, the compressor will cycle on and off every 15 seconds or so, sometimes longer. When the clutch is engaged, all is quiet, but when it releases it looks like the disc between the pulley and the outer part of the clutch it rattling around between the two pieces. Does the disc usually have a spring holding it away from the pulley or something?

My first thought with the cycling was Iow system pressure, checked the AC system pressure, and its right where it should be. In the mean time I have removed the AC clutch fuse to keep it from cycling.

Any ideas before I throw a new clutch/pulley on? And that still wouldn't help with the cycling I believe...

 

[Colt45ws]

The spring is part of the disc. Its usually flat springs parallel to the plate that allow the plate to be pulled to the pulley. They look like arms holding the plate to the hub. At the interface between the springs and the plate are rubber bushings that allow the movement somewhat as well as buffering vibration I suppose. What usually happens is eventually the clutch wears to the point it starts slipping a bit, this overheats the bushings and they melt. Now the plate is loose to the hub and wobbles on them.

 

[SOHCman]

Originally Posted By: Colt45ws
The spring is part of the disc. Its usually flat springs parallel to the plate that allow the plate to be pulled to the pulley. They look like arms holding the plate to the hub. At the interface between the springs and the plate are rubber bushings that allow the movement somewhat as well as buffering vibration I suppose. What usually happens is eventually the clutch wears to the point it starts slipping a bit, this overheats the bushings and they melt. Now the plate is loose to the hub and wobbles on them.


So a new clutch would alleviate the problem completely you think?

 

[Colt45ws]

Yes. As long as you can do the change out without hurting the compressor. Watched someone bash one so hard it cracked the case around the rear bearing.

 

[volvomix]

I am sure you considered this, but why put a bandaid on the problem? Just get a new/used compressor. I did just that on a Honda Civic. Got a refurbished one on ebay for $100 and did the install.

 

[SOHCman]

Originally Posted By: volvomix
I am sure you considered this, but why put a bandaid on the problem? Just get a new/used compressor. I did just that on a Honda Civic. Got a refurbished one on ebay for $100 and did the install.



So a going bad compressor made the clutch go bad? how is a new clutch a bandaid? the car cools fine, the clutch just makes a ton of racket, or am I missing something?

I suppose if I could get a whole compressor/clutch/pully for the price of a clutch I would do it, but that will require draining and refilling the cooling system as an extra expense.

 

[punisher]

Duratechs are not the easiest to replace compressors on.

If you can get by with a new clutch/pulley, go for it. No way would I put any used FS10 on a FoMoCo vehicle. New only.

I forget the exact procedure (its been 11 years since I was with Ford) but you should be able to do a clutch/pulley in the car without having to loosen/remove the compressor. 8mm on the clutch bolt, external snap ring on the pulley. The actual coil that pulls the clutch in is pressed on, and a bit of a pain to install without the proper tool, especially in cramped quarters. If the coil is OK, leave it be.