Oil for 6.0L Powerstroke?

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Buddy of mine just got this in a 2006 F250. He is doing changes himself but knows nothing about diesel oil (Much like me) I told him about Rotella T6, Valvoline Premium Blue, and Kendall GT-1 Diesel. Which would be best for his truck (60K miles) Also, what should the OCI's be with each of the oil's I suggested? Thanks in advance!
 
If he wants to run dino 15W40 pretty much any of the big 3 (Delo, Rotella, Mobil Delvac 1300) can handle 7500 miles under normal service, 5000 under severe conditions, and 10W30 dino is better in winter if you can't plug in the block heater nor run an oil pan heater. I run 5W40 synthetic in my co.'s '05 6.0 because I usually can't plug it in, and it really doesn't like starting cold, even with 10W30. The fact it has over 230K miles on it now is probably part of the reason it has trouble starting & running cold, even though the oil has been religiously changed every 5K.
 
Thanks for the reply, he was planning to run a synthetic in it, so he could have longer OCI's. I have read that on oils like T6 synthetic you can go up to 20-30K. Is that true?
 
I doubt you'll be able to go 20 - 30k miles on T6 without some major oil filtration.

From what I've heard, Schaeffer 9000 5w40 is an excellent oil for the HEUI engines as the HPOP really shears the snot out of most oils, but S9k is far more resistant to shear thinning.

Buddy of mine runs Mobil 1 TDT in his 6 leaker with excellent results - but any of the CJ-4 oils should do fine. In Iowa, you really should run a 5w40 synthetic in cold weather.
 
Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Thanks for the reply, he was planning to run a synthetic in it, so he could have longer OCI's. I have read that on oils like T6 synthetic you can go up to 20-30K. Is that true?


If he plans to run synthetic so he could have longer OCI...make sure he understands he needs a good by-pass filtration system also. I would also recommend he has his oil sampled at 5K, 10K, 15K and 20K especially the during the first 20K to see how things are going. Some oils and engines don't play well together and he needs to how the oil is doing in his truck.

Griz95
 
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Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Thanks for the reply, he was planning to run a synthetic in it, so he could have longer OCI's. I have read that on oils like T6 synthetic you can go up to 20-30K. Is that true?
I just want to echo Griz95's comment that your friend will need to install a bypass filtering system in addition to synthetic oil to make 20K OCIs plausible. Without it, 10K is as far as he'd want to go.
 
He has a 6.0 which will shear the [censored] out of the oil, no bypass filter can fix that. IMHO even on a stock truck I would only go 7500 miles on a 10w30 like rotella T5. I have seen UOAs of 6.0 shearing 40wt oil down to the 30s in 3500 miles. 30 weight oils in the 6.0 seem more resistent to shearing.

He also NEEDS a coolant filter before his oil cooler clogs with junk.
 
FWIW, I suggest deleting the EGR on this truck based on the experience my buddy Jon and others have had with the EGR coolers. They are a nightmare.

Also a +1 to rufushusky's advice above. This engine is very hard on oil, I have a UOA of my buddy's '05 6.0L PSD on Delvac 1 5w40, and it hammered it.
 
I agree with rufshusky... Does your friend live in Iowa also? I beleive it gets pretty dang cold there... will the 6.0L be kept in a garage overnight? Reason I ask is on those very cold winter days and nights... A 5W-40 or 10W-30 or makes a big difference when starting compared to a 15W-40...

Alot of good advice from above... tell him to keep his OCI between 3K and 5K miles and his 6.0L will last along time...
{With a good 5W-40 he might beable to push 7K mile OCI}.
If he chooses to stay with a 15W-40 or 10W-30
? I would tell him to keep his OCI between 3K-5K miles.

I'm also a firm beleiver in the coolant filters...

Change that fuel filter between 10K and 15K miles, or just once a yr...whichever comes first...

Also: Have him look into an EGR delete kits...One major flaw in the 6.0L...
 
And another thing with 6.0s, use good filters. Like Syn said change the fuel filters every 15k miles. I would recommend motorcraft filters since I have heard of other brands having clearance and fit issues with the drop in oil filters and the fuel filters lacking the water stripping of the factory filters. I would look online for the MC filters, you will save a lot. Most Wally Worlds have MC oil filters and rotella T5 so you should be good with that.

Really, the 6.0 gets an undeserved bad rep. Yes it pops head gaskets and EGR coolers but Dodge and Chevy have their own flaws too.


Ok I am off my soap box!
 
Check out the HDEO UOA section. I've been running 10w-30 for the last 40,000mi., year around with excellent results. Synthetic isn't required.
 
Originally Posted By: renegade_987
Thanks guys, he decided on Rotella T6 5w40 with 7-10K OCI's.


I would do a UOA at 5k, 6.0s are very tough on oil.
 
Originally Posted By: rufushusky
And another thing with 6.0s, use good filters. Like Syn said change the fuel filters every 15k miles. I would recommend motorcraft filters since I have heard of other brands having clearance and fit issues with the drop in oil filters and the fuel filters lacking the water stripping of the factory filters. I would look online for the MC filters, you will save a lot. Most Wally Worlds have MC oil filters and rotella T5 so you should be good with that.

Really, the 6.0 gets an undeserved bad rep. Yes it pops head gaskets and EGR coolers but Dodge and Chevy have their own flaws too.


Ok I am off my soap box!
Dunno, at least the problems with the Cummins & Dmaxes usually don't require taking the cab (or in my company van's case, the ENTIRE BODY) off to fix!!
http://s87.photobucket.com/albums/k129/meb727/?action=view&current=DSC00172.jpg
 
First a little background on my truck. 2006 F-350 6.0 PSD that will be 6 years old this September. 96,000 mile on the odo (2600+ hours on the engine) and the truck is stock except for a Magnaflow turbo back exhaust(lost the cat),FS2500 Oil Bypass Filter,DieselSite coolant and tranny filter kits, and a few other items. Truck is used daily and has towed some various loads, and has been trouble free. Operated mostly in Northern Nevada where the weather can be extreme(-20 F to 100+).I do all my own maintenance. Here are my recomendations. Use a synthetic such as Rotella T6 5w-40 or Mobil 1 TDT. I use the Rotella myself, and both are readily available. HEUI injectors like the synthetic when it is cold. Use Racor (OEM supplier)or Motorcraft filters only for the oil and fuel system, Donaldson (OEM supplier)or Motorcraft air filters. I would not exceed the 7500 oil change interval as the HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump)will shear the oil to about a 30w at 5K. I change my oil at the 5K interval. Change fuel filters at 20k if you can get fresh clean diesel fuel, otherwise you will have to change them more often. Fuel supply is crucial for injector life. Treat the diesel fuel with Stanadyne Performance Formula or another high quality fuel treatment that acts as a water de-mulsifier, improves lubrication, and boosts cetane. Fuel treatment helps with keeping the EGR system clean. Avoid excessive idle time with this engine...bad for EGR system. Maintenance is crucial on these engines and there is no cheap way around that fact. If you skimp on maintenance you will probably suffer for it. And get a good set of guages or a monitor of some type to watch the Engine coolant temp, Engine oil temp,Exhaust gas temp (EGT),and Fuel Pressure. Get a coolant filter installed and now is the time to do a coolant flush...ignore the recommended 100k change interval. Any questions just ask.
 
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Originally Posted By: Jakebrake
Any questions just ask.


OK - Here's a few questions:

* Are you aware that thiner oils (10w-30) perform really well in the cold for cold-start and "romp" issues, and they are OEM approved?
(BTW - your average low in DEC in Fallon is +17 deg F; same as all of us in the central mid-west. You don't "need" synthetic in your area; dino 10w-30 would perform just as well.)

* What's wrong with a 30 grade anyway? I've seen very good UOAs with these engines when 30 grade was the starting point.

* Did you know that 30 grade lubes don't shear much, if any, at all in the PSD? The HEUI seems to prefer 30 grades, and if you don't feed it one, it will take your 40 grade and make you one in about 5k miles or so. (There is nothing wrong with using either grade; I just am trying to dispell the myth that 30 grades are undesireable. Shearing of oil without proof of detrimental wear is simple rhetoric and unfounded fear.)

* How in the world will fuel treatment keep the EGR clean? (I've never seen that claim from any of the major fuel treatment makers such as Howes, Stanadyne, PowerService, etc. I think that's a bit of a stretch; if that were a direct benefit, I'm sure they'd all claim it.)

* You run T-6 and bypass FS2500, but still OCI at 5k miles?

* Do you do UOAs?
 
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Originally Posted By: dnewton3}\


* How in the world will fuel treatment keep the EGR clean? (I've never seen that claim from any of the major fuel treatment makers such as Howes, Stanadyne, PowerService, etc. I think that's a bit of a stretch; if that were a direct benefit, I'm sure they'd all claim it.)



Yeah that is a new one on me too. Only way to keep the EGR clean is to actually clean it.
 
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