Thanks Falcon, I'm already at a 40 grade oil and would rather not bump it up more than that. I'll wait until I change the oil, and run it for a full 5000 miles with either a 20 or 30 grade oil.
Lubro Moly Oil Saver
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No problem, glad it helped.
As I'm now using Motor Oil Saver at every oil change on the Grand Marquis, I try and pick the thinnest possible synthetic I can get. The oil I have in there now (Liqui-Moly Synthoil Longtime 0W-30) meets ACEA A3/B4, yet its viscosity at 100 C is 10.1! With the Motor Oil Saver added, I reckon its about 15.2 cSt at 100 C. So it's more like a thick end 40 weight. But when I check my oil first thing in the morning, the oil is thin enough to literally drip off the dipstick!
Worth mentioning, I use both Motor Oil Saver and MoS2 at every oil change.
As I'm now using Motor Oil Saver at every oil change on the Grand Marquis, I try and pick the thinnest possible synthetic I can get. The oil I have in there now (Liqui-Moly Synthoil Longtime 0W-30) meets ACEA A3/B4, yet its viscosity at 100 C is 10.1! With the Motor Oil Saver added, I reckon its about 15.2 cSt at 100 C. So it's more like a thick end 40 weight. But when I check my oil first thing in the morning, the oil is thin enough to literally drip off the dipstick!
Worth mentioning, I use both Motor Oil Saver and MoS2 at every oil change.
^I'd REALLY like to see a UOA of that!
Yes, I will be getting a UOA once it's completed its 6,250 mile service life and see if I can run it any longer.
At the moment, I'm waiting for the UOA report for my previous fill (Liqui-Moly TopTec 4200 5W-30 with MoS2 and Motor Oil Saver) from Germany.
At the moment, I'm waiting for the UOA report for my previous fill (Liqui-Moly TopTec 4200 5W-30 with MoS2 and Motor Oil Saver) from Germany.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
When added to motor oil, it will thicken the oil by half. E.g. if the oil is 9 cSt at 100 C, it will be 13.5 cSt after Motor Oil Saver has been added. Hope this helps.
So if added to a thin 20 grade, the oil would go from, say, 6 cSt to 9, but when added to a thin 50 grade, the oil would jump from, say, 17 to 25.5?
That's, well, impossible.
When added to motor oil, it will thicken the oil by half. E.g. if the oil is 9 cSt at 100 C, it will be 13.5 cSt after Motor Oil Saver has been added. Hope this helps.
So if added to a thin 20 grade, the oil would go from, say, 6 cSt to 9, but when added to a thin 50 grade, the oil would jump from, say, 17 to 25.5?
That's, well, impossible.
The 2.slow has a nasty habit of clogging it's rings with carbon, and nothing you can do really to stop it. VW built the factory pistons cheap, atleast on this Beetle it was number 4 and the rings were baked, and it only has 180,000Km.
You basically need to use Amsoil Powerfoam, through the intake system, blow it in through a vacuum line running into the intake, while you have a full bottle of their Flush and 2 cups of Varsol poured into the crankcase. Switch it over to Redline 5w40 and use the Passat 1.8t filter M1-301, I have yet to find a better filter for these cars.
That's really the only shot you have at stopping that car from roasting oil, besides rebuilding the engine. Well... You can run Rotella T6 5w40 in it, and accept that it will burn a little.
Edit: The rings on this '98 were all installed right side up... The upside down ring thing is just a cover excuse for very poor engineering, who makes a piston without oil drain back holes for the oil ring... VW sure does, well did every other engine, ditched that feature.
You basically need to use Amsoil Powerfoam, through the intake system, blow it in through a vacuum line running into the intake, while you have a full bottle of their Flush and 2 cups of Varsol poured into the crankcase. Switch it over to Redline 5w40 and use the Passat 1.8t filter M1-301, I have yet to find a better filter for these cars.
That's really the only shot you have at stopping that car from roasting oil, besides rebuilding the engine. Well... You can run Rotella T6 5w40 in it, and accept that it will burn a little.
Edit: The rings on this '98 were all installed right side up... The upside down ring thing is just a cover excuse for very poor engineering, who makes a piston without oil drain back holes for the oil ring... VW sure does, well did every other engine, ditched that feature.
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If uncomfortable with using a mineral spirit in the crank case, you can double down on the 'new' Amsoil Flush.
You may also want to run a new filter while doing this, as it will more than likely clog a filter.
You may also want to run a new filter while doing this, as it will more than likely clog a filter.
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