Rotella T6

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It works in any engine that recommends a 40 weight oil, e.g. NOT most modern Japanese and American car/truck gas engines which recommend a thin oil like 5w20 or 5w30.

That said, many European cars still take a 40w like 5w40, I run T6 in my gas Audi A4 2.0T, which the factory recommends a 5w40 or 0w-40 for.
 
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Gas as well. I am using it now.


I gotta ask what you have ran in that cavalier to acheive 300k ?

impresive
 
Originally Posted By: wsar10
Originally Posted By: qdeezie
Gas as well. I am using it now.


I gotta ask what you have ran in that cavalier to acheive 300k ?

impresive
It gets driven!!!
 
Rotella is dual rated-that is, it's API rated for diesels, and has a couple gas-engined ratings also (just look on the back of the bottle).

I run it in my WRX, with no issues. A small (1mpg) drop in mileage after the changeover from running 5w-30 syns (tried a couple different brands). After running it all winter without problems but I did a change at 3k and it still looked quite new.

IMO, I think your xterra could use it, but I would have reservations about putting it in your jeep. I'm no expert on either of those cars however.
 
Originally Posted By: Mfrank84
Hi all!

Is Rotella T6 5W-40 for diesel engines only or can it be used in gasoline engines as well? Thanks.

As others said it's perfectly fine for gasoline engines as it carries a API gasoline use classification SL,SM

great oil!
 
The T6 in my Jeep held good pressure yesterday when I ran the thing on a track for Watkins Glen opening weekend. Coolant temps were running around 212*, and I was turning between 2500 and 4000 rpm most of the time, with a few runs up to 4800 or so, and lots of heavy throttle. Pretty sure I burned through 2 gallons of fuel in about 3 laps at one point.

I would guess my oil temps were around 230 - 240* (although I don't have a gauge). Oil still looked, smelled and felt fine on the stick when I checked it later that day.
 
Rotellas (both the T6 and T) don't have friction modifiers. I wouldn't used them in my gasoline engine for that reason, even though they are good oils otherwise. But they are a good choice for motorcycle engines, which require the absence of friction modifiers.
 
Originally Posted By: smonska
It works in any engine that recommends a 40 weight oil, e.g. NOT most modern Japanese and American car/truck gas engines which recommend a thin oil like 5w20 or 5w30.

That said, many European cars still take a 40w like 5w40, I run T6 in my gas Audi A4 2.0T, which the factory recommends a 5w40 or 0w-40 for.


Where did you get your info on Japanese engines? 40wt is in use in Europe and it is recommended for Outback/Subaru engines. It is even in the owners manual for use here. I have been using 5w-40 since my first oil change in my Outback 4 banger. I have almost 3 years and 75,000 miles on her with no issues. 5w-40 is a great oil and we should be using it more here IMHO...
 
Oh, I am using T6 5w-40 for the past year. I was using Pennzoil Platinum 5w-40 European but it is to hard to find and pretty expensive to boot.
 
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Rotellas (both the T6 and T) don't have friction modifiers. I wouldn't used them in my gasoline engine for that reason, even though they are good oils otherwise. But they are a good choice for motorcycle engines, which require the absence of friction modifiers.


Why would friction modifiers (or lack thereof) be an issue in motor oil that's being used in a motor and not in a differential, clutch, etc.?

T6 contains more zinc than most oils marketed for gasoline engines, so it has enough EP additives. It uses Shell's XHVI Group III+ base oil which is excellent. It carries API gasoline ratings.

If you have a gas vehicle that needs or benefits from a 5W40 synthetic oil, it's probably the best value out there. Not necessarily the best oil if cost is no object, but the best bang for the buck.
 
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+1 There are a lot of Toyota vehicles in Europe and other parts or the world, with the same engines as here in the US and Canada, and they run 40 weight oil.



Originally Posted By: thunderchild
Originally Posted By: smonska
It works in any engine that recommends a 40 weight oil, e.g. NOT most modern Japanese and American car/truck gas engines which recommend a thin oil like 5w20 or 5w30.

That said, many European cars still take a 40w like 5w40, I run T6 in my gas Audi A4 2.0T, which the factory recommends a 5w40 or 0w-40 for.


Where did you get your info on Japanese engines? 40wt is in use in Europe and it is recommended for Outback/Subaru engines. It is even in the owners manual for use here. I have been using 5w-40 since my first oil change in my Outback 4 banger. I have almost 3 years and 75,000 miles on her with no issues. 5w-40 is a great oil and we should be using it more here IMHO...
 
Originally Posted By: dbrowne1
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
Rotellas (both the T6 and T) don't have friction modifiers. I wouldn't used them in my gasoline engine for that reason, even though they are good oils otherwise. But they are a good choice for motorcycle engines, which require the absence of friction modifiers.

Why would friction modifiers (or lack thereof) be an issue in motor oil that's being used in a motor and not in a differential, clutch, etc.?

T6 contains more zinc than most oils marketed for gasoline engines, so it has enough EP additives. It uses Shell's XHVI Group III+ base oil which is excellent. It carries API gasoline ratings.

If you have a gas vehicle that needs or benefits from a 5W40 synthetic oil, it's probably the best value out there. Not necessarily the best oil if cost is no object, but the best bang for the buck.

Friction modifiers (such as moly) increase the fuel economy and horsepower by reducing surface friction. They also reduce wear by increasing the effectiveness of antiwear agents (such as ZDDP). I like having them in the oil I use.

Delo has plenty of friction modifiers; Delvac has a moderate amount, and Rotella has none.

Rotella is a good oil and shows good wear protection, like all Shell oils (Pennzoil, Formula Shell, etc.).

There are a lot of things that affect wear protection. A balanced antiwear and friction-modifier package is one of them. HTHS viscosity is also very important, larger being better. I prefer 15W-40 for that reason because it has a substantially higher HTHS viscosity than 5W-40. Synthetic or conventional base stocks makes no difference as long as you change your oil before it goes bad (synthetic might last longer).

Coming back to friction modifiers, personally I would use an oil containing them for peace of mind. Others might not care. For wet clutch applications (motorcyles, automatic transmissions, etc.) though, you need to choose an oil with the correct surface friction, and you might be stuck with an oil with no friction modifiers (such as Rotella). Rotella is nicely certified for JASO motorcycle category.

Regarding xW-40 weight oil, you can use it virtually in any engine. It will reduce fuel economy with respect to xW-20 and xW-30 on the downside. It has superior wear protection (increased film strength, especially important for bearings) than thinner viscosities. Higher HTHS viscosity simply means higher oil-film strength. 15W-40 works very well in my gasoline engine and is the standard for diesel engines.

For newer engines you probably don't need to sacrifice fuel economy for slightly enhanced wear protection, unless you're doing a lot of high-speed, high-acceleration, and/or high-temperature driving, which could result in a lot of wear with xW-20 or even xW-30 if that is the case for your driving conditions.
 
Stating that Rotella T6 has no friction modifiers is incorrect. It does in fact contain some Mo-DTC, usually showing between 50 and 100ppm.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Stating that Rotella T6 has no friction modifiers is incorrect. It does in fact contain some Mo-DTC, usually showing between 50 and 100ppm.

Thanks. I had seen that Rotella T Triple Protection dino had no moly (and is JASO certified) and assumed that Rotella T6 synthetic (which is also JASO certified) had no moly either.

In that case it's relieving that Rotella T6 has moly. It's surprising because synthetic oils have usually less moly than their dino counterparts.

You can always add aftermarket ZDDP and moly into an oil but should be careful as you might throw off the balance of the antiwear additives, which is hard to know when you are doing it yourself with an aftermarket additive.
 
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