http://www.conocophillipslubricants.com/...20TDS%20Web.pdf
Besides this one, is there anyone else who makes a synthetic blend or mineral 0w-20?
Besides this one, is there anyone else who makes a synthetic blend or mineral 0w-20?
0w-20 Oils That Are Not Full Synthetic
- Thread starter The Critic
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There was a rumor that Motorcraft was going to market a SynBlend in 0w-20, but as CP provides the oil for Ford, it is probably the same.
Else, every other 0w-20 that I see online is full synthetic:
Google Search for 0w-20
Else, every other 0w-20 that I see online is full synthetic:
Google Search for 0w-20
Originally Posted By: tig1
Just bought M1 0-20 for my next OC in the Focus.
And how is this relevant to my thread?
Just bought M1 0-20 for my next OC in the Focus.
And how is this relevant to my thread?
There are some that wonder if the M1 is truly a synthetic?
Originally Posted By: kballowe
There are some that wonder if the M1 is truly a synthetic?
That wasn't the point of this discussion. The point of this discussion was to identify 0w-20 oils that are not marketed as full synthetics. Debating the accuracy of Mobil 1's full synthetic claim is not relevant to this discussion.
There are some that wonder if the M1 is truly a synthetic?
That wasn't the point of this discussion. The point of this discussion was to identify 0w-20 oils that are not marketed as full synthetics. Debating the accuracy of Mobil 1's full synthetic claim is not relevant to this discussion.
Critic - what manufacturers have YOU checked for the conventional 0w-20?
Ramble_
Since marketed "full synthetic" only means group III PERFORMANCE and greater, are you looking for an oil that would cold crank and be a groupII+? I wouldnt think this would be a stable oil compared to a group 3/4/5 syn 0w. The great thing about a 5w-20 it can be made without excessive, unstable, gummy, dirty VII. If you build a 0w-20 in a group II base you will need a fair % ester and polymethacrylate to prevent an early cloud point and then most likely employ a much light(ER) base stock than whould be utilised building a 5w. Then you add the VII again to reach desired KV100. You're back to the terrible 5w30esque conventional, unstable, junk oil construction again. I say avoid a non-syn 0w anything, unless they are just being honest to not advertise a premium conventional base stock product as a "full synthetic".
Ramble_
Since marketed "full synthetic" only means group III PERFORMANCE and greater, are you looking for an oil that would cold crank and be a groupII+? I wouldnt think this would be a stable oil compared to a group 3/4/5 syn 0w. The great thing about a 5w-20 it can be made without excessive, unstable, gummy, dirty VII. If you build a 0w-20 in a group II base you will need a fair % ester and polymethacrylate to prevent an early cloud point and then most likely employ a much light(ER) base stock than whould be utilised building a 5w. Then you add the VII again to reach desired KV100. You're back to the terrible 5w30esque conventional, unstable, junk oil construction again. I say avoid a non-syn 0w anything, unless they are just being honest to not advertise a premium conventional base stock product as a "full synthetic".
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Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: tig1
Just bought M1 0-20 for my next OC in the Focus.
And how is this relevant to my thread?
tig is like an EXxon-Mobil pop up
They pay 25c a mention
Originally Posted By: tig1
Just bought M1 0-20 for my next OC in the Focus.
And how is this relevant to my thread?
tig is like an EXxon-Mobil pop up
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Critic - what manufacturers have YOU checked for the conventional 0w-20?
The 76 0w-20 that I listed in the original post.
I am just looking for a lower cost option than the full synthetic oils, and personally, I could care less as to whether or not it's known as a "good" product as long as it is API certified and won't void any warranties. The manufacturers (Toyota and Honda) only ask for a 0w-20, and do not specify that it needs to be a full synthetic product. So in good faith, I can use any API certified 0w-20 product.
Critic - what manufacturers have YOU checked for the conventional 0w-20?
The 76 0w-20 that I listed in the original post.
I am just looking for a lower cost option than the full synthetic oils, and personally, I could care less as to whether or not it's known as a "good" product as long as it is API certified and won't void any warranties. The manufacturers (Toyota and Honda) only ask for a 0w-20, and do not specify that it needs to be a full synthetic product. So in good faith, I can use any API certified 0w-20 product.
oh boy.
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Critic - what manufacturers have YOU checked for the conventional 0w-20?
The 76 0w-20 that I listed in the original post.
... The manufacturers (Toyota and Honda) only ask for a 0w-20, and do not specify that it needs to be a full synthetic product. So in good faith, I can use any API certified 0w-20 product.
Did ya get a new ride?! In the past was not the Toyota or Honda service part relatively "cheap" ?
aside: My yaris was doing well on the SN mc-ss, but now it sounds like its going to disassemble itself very soon. Been getting HORRID gasoline locally lately with bizarre and poor drivability. If I wasnt lazy about this I sample the gas and check for excessive ethanol and pond water. It is really bad! I think this bad gas wrecks the oil, I know my catcon stinks like hades in the car getting on the highway lately.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Critic - what manufacturers have YOU checked for the conventional 0w-20?
The 76 0w-20 that I listed in the original post.
... The manufacturers (Toyota and Honda) only ask for a 0w-20, and do not specify that it needs to be a full synthetic product. So in good faith, I can use any API certified 0w-20 product.
Did ya get a new ride?! In the past was not the Toyota or Honda service part relatively "cheap" ?
aside: My yaris was doing well on the SN mc-ss, but now it sounds like its going to disassemble itself very soon. Been getting HORRID gasoline locally lately with bizarre and poor drivability. If I wasnt lazy about this I sample the gas and check for excessive ethanol and pond water. It is really bad! I think this bad gas wrecks the oil, I know my catcon stinks like hades in the car getting on the highway lately.
Shell Helix Racing Engine Oil 0W-20 is a semi-synthetic high performance lubricant
developed to provide high levels of engine protection and maximum engine power
output for Formula 3 type engines.
Shell Helix Racing Engine Oil 0W-20 was developed with Mugen to meet their stringent
requirements for their engines used in Formula 3 events throughout the world. The product
is therefore dedicated to racing engines only. It is not appropriate for on-highway
applications.
Viscosity Grade
Kinematic Viscosity
Viscosity Index
Dynamic Viscosity
Density
Flash Point COC
Pour Point
These characteristics are typical of current production. Whilst future production will
conform to Shell’s specification, variations in these characteristics may occur.
Shell Helix Racing Engine Oil 0W-20 was painstakingly developed specifically for the
engine technology of high performance F3 racing engines.
The formulation was carefully optimised to maximise engine power output without
detriment to engine wear.
Shell technologists developed the lubricant formulation, which exploits advanced Shell
XHVI base oils and a unique combination of performance additives.
The product has been extensively tested in the laboratory, on the test bench and in
competitive Formula 3 racing.
Shell Helix Racing Engine Oil 0W-20 is unlikely to present any significant health or safety
hazard when properly used in the recommended application, and good standards of
industrial and personal hygiene are maintained.
Avoid contact with skin. Use impervious gloves with used oil. After skin contact, wash
immediately with soap and water.
For further guidance on Product Health and Safety refer to the appropriate Shell Product
Safety Data Sheet.
Take used oil to an authorised collection point. Do not discharge into
drains, soil or water.
SAE 0W-20
@ 40°C 35.1 mm2/s
@ 100°C 7.35 mm2/s
182
@ –35°C 4340 mPas
@ 15°C 857 kg/m3
218°C
–51°C
Application
Specification
Physical Characteristics
Characteristics
High Power/
Wear Protection
Unique Technology
Dedicated Testing
Health, Safety and
the Environment
Protect the Environment
Racing Engine Oil 0W-20
Shell
RacingSolutions
developed to provide high levels of engine protection and maximum engine power
output for Formula 3 type engines.
Shell Helix Racing Engine Oil 0W-20 was developed with Mugen to meet their stringent
requirements for their engines used in Formula 3 events throughout the world. The product
is therefore dedicated to racing engines only. It is not appropriate for on-highway
applications.
Viscosity Grade
Kinematic Viscosity
Viscosity Index
Dynamic Viscosity
Density
Flash Point COC
Pour Point
These characteristics are typical of current production. Whilst future production will
conform to Shell’s specification, variations in these characteristics may occur.
Shell Helix Racing Engine Oil 0W-20 was painstakingly developed specifically for the
engine technology of high performance F3 racing engines.
The formulation was carefully optimised to maximise engine power output without
detriment to engine wear.
Shell technologists developed the lubricant formulation, which exploits advanced Shell
XHVI base oils and a unique combination of performance additives.
The product has been extensively tested in the laboratory, on the test bench and in
competitive Formula 3 racing.
Shell Helix Racing Engine Oil 0W-20 is unlikely to present any significant health or safety
hazard when properly used in the recommended application, and good standards of
industrial and personal hygiene are maintained.
Avoid contact with skin. Use impervious gloves with used oil. After skin contact, wash
immediately with soap and water.
For further guidance on Product Health and Safety refer to the appropriate Shell Product
Safety Data Sheet.
Take used oil to an authorised collection point. Do not discharge into
drains, soil or water.
SAE 0W-20
@ 40°C 35.1 mm2/s
@ 100°C 7.35 mm2/s
182
@ –35°C 4340 mPas
@ 15°C 857 kg/m3
218°C
–51°C
Application
Specification
Physical Characteristics
Characteristics
High Power/
Wear Protection
Unique Technology
Dedicated Testing
Health, Safety and
the Environment
Protect the Environment
Racing Engine Oil 0W-20
Shell
RacingSolutions
Mobil 1 0w-20, Mobil 1 0w-20, just made me 50 cent. Google can do it so can I.
Mag1 0w-20 ain't non fully synthertic,but it may be cheeper, which was the point of relevance I believe stated was the requirment to be able to speak freely here on this here privately owned thread..
Mag1 0w-20 ain't non fully synthertic,but it may be cheeper, which was the point of relevance I believe stated was the requirment to be able to speak freely here on this here privately owned thread..
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Originally Posted By: tig1
Just bought M1 0-20 for my next OC in the Focus.
And how is this relevant to my thread?
Oops, sorry! I was reading two or three treads on 0-20 oils and posted hear when I thought I was posting else where.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Just bought M1 0-20 for my next OC in the Focus.
And how is this relevant to my thread?
Oops, sorry! I was reading two or three treads on 0-20 oils and posted hear when I thought I was posting else where.
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I was under the impression any "Zero Weight" oil HAD to be synthetic......let alone synthetic "blend" - due to the pure "nature" of mineral based conventional dino oil.....
I guess, you could "consider" a 0W-X oil "blend" - but I'd imagine their would have to be more concentration of "synthetic" than dino in the mix
If you get what I mean.
I guess, you could "consider" a 0W-X oil "blend" - but I'd imagine their would have to be more concentration of "synthetic" than dino in the mix
Honda makes a 0W-20 SynBlend
Honda and ESPECIALLY Toyota 0w20 blend just use a huge amount of VII's. There would be no way that stuff would touch my engine. After my Civic Hybrid is flushed a little bit more I may just pay the extra $$ for Amsoil until I find out who is making a good 0w20. I do think the accessibility of the M1 AFE is nice and the 0w30 was excellent in my Altima, so I assume the 0w20 is good as well.
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Honda and ESPECIALLY Toyota 0w20 blend just use a huge amount of VII's. There would be no way that stuff would touch my engine. After my Civic Hybrid is flushed a little bit more I may just pay the extra $$ for Amsoil until I find out who is making a good 0w20. I do think the accessibility of the M1 AFE is nice and the 0w30 was excellent in my Altima, so I assume the 0w20 is good as well.
I'm sure, so is every other major ladeling in the vii in their fake synthetics. If I was serious about my car lasting and I wanted to run a 20 it would be redline or amsoil or a euro oil and I dont know if Elf or Fuchs or Pentosin market any lubricants in this "water" weight. Maybe they are sane and understand that hot oil needs to exhibit some viscosity resembling that of oil. Also, they may use more of the engines capacity more regularly than we do Stateside. People drive and accelerate and stop very slow around here - especially since gas prices have jumped.
Honda and ESPECIALLY Toyota 0w20 blend just use a huge amount of VII's. There would be no way that stuff would touch my engine. After my Civic Hybrid is flushed a little bit more I may just pay the extra $$ for Amsoil until I find out who is making a good 0w20. I do think the accessibility of the M1 AFE is nice and the 0w30 was excellent in my Altima, so I assume the 0w20 is good as well.
I'm sure, so is every other major ladeling in the vii in their fake synthetics. If I was serious about my car lasting and I wanted to run a 20 it would be redline or amsoil or a euro oil and I dont know if Elf or Fuchs or Pentosin market any lubricants in this "water" weight. Maybe they are sane and understand that hot oil needs to exhibit some viscosity resembling that of oil. Also, they may use more of the engines capacity more regularly than we do Stateside. People drive and accelerate and stop very slow around here - especially since gas prices have jumped.
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Honda and ESPECIALLY Toyota 0w20 blend just use a huge amount of VII's. There would be no way that stuff would touch my engine. After my Civic Hybrid is flushed a little bit more I may just pay the extra $$ for Amsoil until I find out who is making a good 0w20. I do think the accessibility of the M1 AFE is nice and the 0w30 was excellent in my Altima, so I assume the 0w20 is good as well.
I'm sure, so is every other major ladeling in the vii in their fake synthetics. If I was serious about my car lasting and I wanted to run a 20 it would be redline or amsoil or a euro oil and I dont know if Elf or Fuchs or Pentosin market any lubricants in this "water" weight. Maybe they are sane and understand that hot oil needs to exhibit some viscosity resembling that of oil. Also, they may use more of the engines capacity more regularly than we do Stateside. People drive and accelerate and stop very slow around here - especially since gas prices have jumped.
Arco, you said"If I was serious about my car lasting and I wanted to run a 20 it would be Redline or Amsoil etc". Now you can't possibly be serious about that statement? Yes both of those oils are very good, but to imply that if you don't use them his engine will not last very long? Please tell us you are jokeing. These kind of statements are of course silly at best and flies in the face of reality.
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
Honda and ESPECIALLY Toyota 0w20 blend just use a huge amount of VII's. There would be no way that stuff would touch my engine. After my Civic Hybrid is flushed a little bit more I may just pay the extra $$ for Amsoil until I find out who is making a good 0w20. I do think the accessibility of the M1 AFE is nice and the 0w30 was excellent in my Altima, so I assume the 0w20 is good as well.
I'm sure, so is every other major ladeling in the vii in their fake synthetics. If I was serious about my car lasting and I wanted to run a 20 it would be redline or amsoil or a euro oil and I dont know if Elf or Fuchs or Pentosin market any lubricants in this "water" weight. Maybe they are sane and understand that hot oil needs to exhibit some viscosity resembling that of oil. Also, they may use more of the engines capacity more regularly than we do Stateside. People drive and accelerate and stop very slow around here - especially since gas prices have jumped.
Arco, you said"If I was serious about my car lasting and I wanted to run a 20 it would be Redline or Amsoil etc". Now you can't possibly be serious about that statement? Yes both of those oils are very good, but to imply that if you don't use them his engine will not last very long? Please tell us you are jokeing. These kind of statements are of course silly at best and flies in the face of reality.
No I said, "if I was serious"
But true, I would not run a non-synthetic 0w-20 or 0w-30 oil to 5% OLM. I have no way of telling if anything marketed Stateside is a group IV/V synthetic, so going Redline or Amsoil or Elf, etc would assure that it is, also I like redline high HTHS. This may not be to any any practical effect to anyone but me, given I beat the engine to death daily, but, as a personal choice I wouldn't want vii in my synthetic LL oil, period. And that may just be silly stubborness on my part
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