Steering and Suspension - with or w/o zerk

[Johnny248]

I used to always thing that chassis parts that had zerk fittings and are greasable are better than the sealed parts. Now I am starting to wonder. Is a "sealed" factory style tie rod end or ball joint a better way to go than a "premium greasable" style part?

When I look at how long some of the oe parts last, and then I see greasable parts that need to be replaced. Are they really better?

I've heard peoples thoughts that a greasable part is not really sealed, and can let contaminates through when greasing along with subpar boots.

Your thoughts?

 

[440Magnum]

IMO, its something of a draw for a street car. Most "sealed" tie-rod ends and balljoints seem to last over 100k miles, and all of the greaseable ones I've had really started to feel like they could do with a replacement before 200k miles. So if you maintain the greaseable ones REALLY well, they may do just a tick better, but most people don't maintain them and they probably don't last as long.

Now for a 4x4, different story. When you go offroad and submerge suspension components, its really nice to be able to pump fresh grease in and force the waterlogged grease out through the boot bleed slots.

 

[defektes]

I grease fittings twice a year on my vehicles, or whenever I have the tire off for whatever reason.


So far the suspension components on my truck are still tight after 150k miles.

 

[Chris142]

I greased my Jeeps tie rod ends at every oil change and whenever I had a tire off and they were sloppy and loose @ 90,000 miles.

 

[1999nick]

There are millions more vehicles on the road now. How would the road surface be if all cars had greasible connections like cars of 40 or 50 years ago dripping droplets of grase on the roadways.

 

[eljefino]

^ I think the rope rear main seals did more for that magical black smear on the concrete lane. Remember it was between the tires.

 

[Johnny248]

Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
IMO, its something of a draw for a street car. Most "sealed" tie-rod ends and balljoints seem to last over 100k miles, and all of the greaseable ones I've had really started to feel like they could do with a replacement before 200k miles. So if you maintain the greaseable ones REALLY well, they may do just a tick better, but most people don't maintain them and they probably don't last as long.

Now for a 4x4, different story. When you go offroad and submerge suspension components, its really nice to be able to pump fresh grease in and force the waterlogged grease out through the boot bleed slots.


That is what I am kinda thinking.

I have 40k on this vehicle. Everything is tight, however I had ruined the factory tie rod ends and ball joints. Currently I am doing some suspension work. I removed the control arms to replace the factory bushings with Energy Suspension bushings.

While doing so, I replaced the factory ball joints with some Japan made aftermarket's(sealed, hope I can trust them) and and packed them full of Amsoil Polymetric Offroad hoping they will stay tight for a long time. At the same time, I will be replacing the tie rod ends also. I am just trying to decide if I should use Moog greaseable or OEM outers. I trust the OEM sealed, but I am just wondering if I should go with the Moogs. I don't know if I have great faith in Moog, but they are my only option if I wanted to be able to grease them.

 

[51Plymouth]

I think steering and suspension components without grease fittings are really stupid. Sealed components may work well in ideal dry climates, but up here where we have winters and snow they use road salt and calcium chloride on roads. The salt and calcium chloride comes into contact with snow and ice and melts it but it results in a liquid salt. That stuff gets everywhere under a vehicle and rusts everything. Water getting into a sealed component is bad enough, but the salty water from the road surface really rusts components if it gets past the boots.

My 1989 2000 GTX (Mitsubishi) has aftermarket greaseable ball joints and tie rod ends. Whenever I grease them, especially after winter, the first thing that comes out of the boot is water, followed by a bit of brown rusty looking grease, and then fresh tan coloured grease. In my case, regular greasing is essential for long component life. I use Valvoline Multi-Purpose Grease NLGI #2 Grade GC-LB Lithium Complex EP Grease.

I think another key to sucessful greasing is not using too thick of a grease. I am still using the above grease which is nice and creamy in my car but I may go thinner.

I had to replace front wheel bearings in my wife's 2005 Toyota Echo. I had to separate the ball joints and tie rod ends for the job. They did not have grease fittings. During disassembly a bit of grease came out around the tapered studs sticking out of the boots. It looked like a very thin grease. I got some NLGI #1 grease which I believe has some moly in it. I used a grease needle and added grease into the boots around the tapered studs before reattaching the ball joints and tie rod ends. I think if the joints are tight with no play, a thin grease would be essential to easily get everywhere inside the joint.

I have seen greasable and non-greasable joints totally rusted inside and loose, but most often it is a non-greasable joint with no grease left in it. If it was greasable, the previous owner forgot to grease it regularly.

My 1951 Plymouth car is loaded with grease fittings on the front steering and suspension. There must be a total of about 30 fittings. I bought the car used with unknown total high mileage. All of the front end components look original and are good and looked to have received regular greasing over the years.

I have noticed that a lot of new front end components are made offshore and some domestic ones can also be cheap quality. Maybe I am cynical but I believe they use the cheapest grease they can find.

From what I have noticed over the years working on various cars, the best thing is greasable fittings with regular greasing. By regular I mean every couple of months.

 

[440Magnum]

Originally Posted By: 1999nick
There are millions more vehicles on the road now. How would the road surface be if all cars had greasible connections like cars of 40 or 50 years ago dripping droplets of grase on the roadways.


It doesn't happen. You put the grease in, some old grease squirts out, you wipe it off with a rag, and that's it. No dripping on the roads at all.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Our vans have about 20 Zerks on the front end.

Since we work in the driveways of million dollar homes a grease spot could be a BIG deal.

Simply wipe with a paper towel and no drips.

 

[Johnny248]

Well,

The ball joints are sealed (packed them full of Amsoil Polymetric #2 OR) and the Moog tie rod end showed up as a CTR replacakaged sealed, made in Korea. That is going back. I have OEM Mitsu sealed tie rods, and I'll use a needle between the boot and threaded section while it is loose and not installed to pump some Amsoil grease in there. So that part is settled. Sealed BJ's and TRE's due to what is available.

What about Sway Bar Links? They seem to go bad before anything. Greasable? Prob I see is that 99.9% of the cars that have had greasble tie rod ends installed and bone dry and shot. No one ever maintains them.

Again, OEM or Aftermarket links with grease fittings?

 

[51Plymouth]

For me it's no question, greasable everything.

I've too seen a lot of sway bar links, and other front end parts go bad. As for with or without grease fittings, I see it this way. For the first year, or maybe two, the parts with or without fittings may have comparable wear and deterioration rates. After that, the non-greasable parts will have old grease in them hardening in drying out. Even "disappearing". You will even have rust inside the joints in salted road areas.

Now if this same part had grease fittings and the owner greased them regularly, after two years or more the part would still be good because it would have had a supply of fresh grease and all the water and salt would have been pushed out whenever it was greased. (And by regular greasing I mean every month or two, NOT annually.)

Johnny248 is right about most people never maintaining and greasing their parts. What does a tube of grease cost compared to replacing parts that with some care could have lasted much longer?

I think Johnny248 has also done a great thing by greasing his new sealed parts with some good grease. I would also advise, even though it will be a lot of work, to take the joints apart in the future and re-grease the same way.

Whatever happened to the convenience of grease fittings? Can't they have a good boot and seal AND be greasable? Are OEM's and replacement part manufacturers only trying to save pennies? (I think yes.)