Best oil choice for high mileage Chevy S10

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Raleigh, North Carolina USA
1. I have a 1989 Chevy S10 4x4 with a 4.3L and 205k miles on it
2. I do not have my owners manual but I know that it calls for 10-30W or 5-30W depending on the climate.
3. I live in Charlotte, North Carolina in the USA where the summers or moderately hot and the winters can get pretty cold (ie. Low 20's)
4. I usually drive at a moderate speed. Never really follow the speed limit and I like to go fast on the highway (ie. Upper 70's to 80's)
5. Daily drive consists of mostly city driving with some highway in between. But mostly city
6. I don't really have any known problems with the engine itself other than some ticking here and there but not sure of the actual location of the ticking. Minor oil leak as well.


I would love to continue my venture with Synthetic as that is what I have been using along with some MMO every once in a while for te sludge problem I have. Although if there is a Dino oil that may better suite me than I'm all for it. As far as where to get it I would prefer store-bought for convenience. I have been changing the oil roughly every 3k miles since I got the truck with 180k miles on it. My first oil change was Penn Ultra 10-30W then it went to Mobile 1 10-30w then it went back to the Penn ultra and then my last oil change was the Penn Ultra 5-20W combined with a bottle of MMO and a bottle of V6 restore.

My next oil change is due and need some recommendations on what I should do in terms of best oil for my application. I'd love to have something with a lot of cleaning capabilities and I was looking at the rotella line of products for diesel engines but I'm not too knowledgable on this subject.

Here is a picture of my current sludge problem. This is on the drivers side head -


http://yfrog.com/h48vdmj


Thanks guys! I look forward to hearing from you!!

-Billy
 
That sludge is not too bad. Any good synthetic will help clean, just do it slow and i would not use an engine "flush". Mobil 1 hm advertises cleaning. Pennzoil platinum would be good too. I would use 10w 30 pennzoil yellow bottle and a can of mmo for 3k then a good syn like above. Change filters every 1500 x 2 filters (purolator classic maybe). Then go 5000 on the syn.
 
Wonder what the heck is going on with the sludge?? It does have some miles on it but with those short intervals I think you would be better served with a conventional oil like PYB, VWB, Maxlife. I am not a proponent of HDEO's in most gasoline engines except ones where they are specified to be used in both gas and diesel. Try rotella 10w30 if it floats your boat, and change the PCV valve if you haven't already.
 
My wife's 2001 GMC Jimmy SLE 4.3l engine I believe is the same one. I have her owner's manual and the Haynes book and it shows it's for Chevy S-10 & GMC Sonoma pick ups '94 thru '04 so that's not yours exactly but I'm thinking they are probably similar. I've ran quite a few otc synthetics in this truck of late as it's a pretty noisy truck and I can tell you unequivocally that Castrol Edge 10w30 has been a definite standout in smoothness and especially quietness for that thing. To the point when I took it out one day for another name brand, without her knowledge, she asked me what I did to it and why it sounded more clanky. lol

I have no doubt that oil would very well surprise you. With UOA support I think you could extend the OCI's quite a ways too, maybe even the advertised 15k. Though like I said, do UOA's along the way to make sure.

The book says that 10w30 is acceptable in 0f or above and 5w30 of course is also acceptable. I like the 10w30 version as it has a bit better additive package over the 5w flavor and is a tad thicker and probably more shear resistant as well. She drives her suv with all four of our kids all around town and tons of short trips and this oil has kept the inside very clean.

Also, when I buy an oil special for this truck, even though hers is a RWD truck, I choose the filter for the 4wd version as it fits the same, the only difference is you get the big long huge filter for 4wd whereas you get a tiny one for Rwd. Since the oil filter comes packed in with oil specials, there's no cost difference. I'd check to see if yours can do this as well as it could help keep things really clean for an extended oil change interval.

If not this I'd vote MaxLife synthetic blend. If not that and you want conventional I'd definitely go with either Pennzoil yellow bottle or Mobil Clean 5000, as both are known to clean sludge out well.

Hope this helps bud.
 
Quote:
I don't really have any known problems with the engine itself other than some ticking here and there but not sure of the actual location of the ticking.

that is most likely the injectors themselves, they can get loud at that age.that is a TBI engine and they all tick a little.
oil spec for my 91 is 5/30.filter is AC PF52(the long one) you should be ok w/HM oil.
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey


I have no doubt that oil would very well surprise you. With UOA support I think you could extend the OCI's quite a ways too, maybe even the advertised 15k. Though like I said, do UOA's along the way to make sure.



I'm curious about the advice for Used Oil Analysis. This is a 21 yr old Chevy with 205K and sludge. A UOA costs about the same as an oil change right? Would the OP be well served to keep up the short OCIs with an HM oil and forgo the analysis? What would an analysis do for him? Seems like PYB and a decent filter and reasonable OCIs would be cost effective.

Please forgive my ignorance about UOAs.
 
Rotella T6 5w-40 is good for cleaning. Pennzoil Platinum is good for cleaning too. Pennzoil Platinum is currently on sale at O'Reilly's for $4.29 a quart.
 
use a good filter and stay with a good dino of your choice don't put all kinds of things into your crankcase use 10w30 anything with a sm or sn rating hm is the way to go in the summer..
having 5w20 syn and mmo is going to lite use 5w30 in the cold winter and 5w30 or 10w30 in the hot summer
 
If this was my engine I would use Lubro Moly Motor Flush with the schedule:

Dino 5-10W30 for 900 miles then add 2oz Lubro Moly Motor Flush and drive as usual for 100 miles, change oil and filter

Repeat the short OCI of 1k miles, add 3oz Motor Flush on second OCI at 900 miles, add 4oz Motor Flush on third, fourth and fifth OCI at 900 miles.

Summary, add Motor Flush and drive 100 miles before oil change. After the full can of Motor Flush had been use in 5 OCI's, your engine will be as clean as it can be. Then you can start using synthetic with 6-7k miles the first few OCI's, and extend OCI's to 8-10k miles after that.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=AORLM2037_0058582450
 
WOW! All good responses in no time! Alrighty here we go:

I have changed the PCV valve fairly recently although if someone has the change interval on those that would be great.

Hearing a lot of good stuff on M1 HM and PYB. I am leaning towards the last post about the Lubro Moly Flush by HTSS_TR though.


Now by Dino, im assuming PYB is a dino so id use that along with what type of filter should i use? i hear fram is a no no and im currently using a K&N although i think a Pur Classic would suffice for this type of schedule due to the low cost. also ive been reading that the lubro moly is supposed to be added and let idle for 10 minutes then drain oil. Is it ok to drive around with it for 100 miles?
 
I haven't read the instructions for Lubro Moly Motor Flush, so I can't speak for that. If it doesn't recommend driving, I WOULD NOT...but otherwise if you buy a cheap dino oil(dont waste it on PYB get something like Formula Shell which is a cheaper but respected oil) and follow HTSS_TR recommendations you may come out ahead...but his is really relying on adding a SMALL amount of the motor flush and driving only 100 miles before changing(not enough time to thin out the oil too fast or risk the additive harming the engine in theory etc)...

Otherwise, your option for a slower cleaning could be using a HM oil and adding MMO to the engine oil for the last 500-1000 miles for 2 or 3 normal OCI(3k miles) and see how clean you get.

Either way...post after pics!
grin.gif
 
Originally Posted By: ltslimjim
I haven't read the instructions for Lubro Moly Motor Flush, so I can't speak for that. If it doesn't recommend driving, I WOULD NOT...but otherwise if you buy a cheap dino oil(dont waste it on PYB get something like Formula Shell which is a cheaper but respected oil) and follow HTSS_TR recommendations you may come out ahead...but his is really relying on adding a SMALL amount of the motor flush and driving only 100 miles before changing(not enough time to thin out the oil too fast or risk the additive harming the engine in theory etc)...

Otherwise, your option for a slower cleaning could be using a HM oil and adding MMO to the engine oil for the last 500-1000 miles for 2 or 3 normal OCI(3k miles) and see how clean you get.

Either way...post after pics!
grin.gif



And with the formula shell i should go with the standard 5/10-30W right? also im trying to get this thing clean rather quickly so i think the motor flush way is the way to go. hopefully they stock formula shell at wally world by me. dont see why they wouldnt i suppose..

And i will definetely be posting after pics! after every oil change ill be pulling the driver side cover off to see how it looks under there and then at the end of the schedule ill pull off both and see how it looks in there
smile.gif
 
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Friend has the same engine is his s10 and abuses it pretty good. Ran up to 20k OCI all highway in less than a year with Castrol GTX HM. Told me about the chunks coming out of the oil pan and i told him his OCI was too long. It has in excess of 400k on it i believe almost 500k. These engines are tough, you can't go wrong with any high mileage oil esp synthetics like M1 or Maxlife with any reasonable OCI they last forever
 
Originally Posted By: shpankey
My wife's 2001 GMC Jimmy SLE 4.3l engine I believe is the same one. I have her owner's manual and the Haynes book and it shows it's for Chevy S-10 & GMC Sonoma pick ups '94 thru '04 so that's not yours exactly but I'm thinking they are probably similar. I've ran quite a few otc synthetics in this truck of late as it's a pretty noisy truck and I can tell you unequivocally that Castrol Edge 10w30 has been a definite standout in smoothness and especially quietness for that thing. To the point when I took it out one day for another name brand, without her knowledge, she asked me what I did to it and why it sounded more clanky. lol

I have no doubt that oil would very well surprise you. With UOA support I think you could extend the OCI's quite a ways too, maybe even the advertised 15k. Though like I said, do UOA's along the way to make sure.

The book says that 10w30 is acceptable in 0f or above and 5w30 of course is also acceptable. I like the 10w30 version as it has a bit better additive package over the 5w flavor and is a tad thicker and probably more shear resistant as well. She drives her suv with all four of our kids all around town and tons of short trips and this oil has kept the inside very clean.

Also, when I buy an oil special for this truck, even though hers is a RWD truck, I choose the filter for the 4wd version as it fits the same, the only difference is you get the big long huge filter for 4wd whereas you get a tiny one for Rwd. Since the oil filter comes packed in with oil specials, there's no cost difference. I'd check to see if yours can do this as well as it could help keep things really clean for an extended oil change interval.

If not this I'd vote MaxLife synthetic blend. If not that and you want conventional I'd definitely go with either Pennzoil yellow bottle or Mobil Clean 5000, as both are known to clean sludge out well.

Hope this helps bud.


if i had sludge the last thing i would do is an extended drain
 
Originally Posted By: Covert24
And with the formula shell i should go with the standard 5/10-30W right? also im trying to get this thing clean rather quickly so i think the motor flush way is the way to go. hopefully they stock formula shell at wally world by me. dont see why they wouldnt i suppose..

And i will definetely be posting after pics! after every oil change ill be pulling the driver side cover off to see how it looks under there and then at the end of the schedule ill pull off both and see how it looks in there
smile.gif



You are correct on the oil grade selection, whatever your engine calls for. Unless you are subbing out 1 QT for MMO, there is no need to use 10w-30 this early in the year(if you ever use it at all that is).

If you want, go into whichever napa locally carries LubroMoly to see if they even have the flush additive. Check online and just check various stores around you. Read on the can about how to use their Motor Flush product in person. Otherwise, just drive it 1,000-1,500 on oil only and afterward use the full can of motor flush at once/idle for 15 minutes to full temp, and, having everything else already set up, immediately pull the oil pan plug(have oil filler cap/dipstick removed)...while that guy drains, remove your oil filter and all in all I'd say let the vehicle drain for a good 2 hours max. If some of the motor flush remains you are okay. Especially doing only 1k miles or so on trace amounts. I also like LubeGard products, but wouldn't recommend them for the price compared to LubroMoly.

I've never used their motor flush(LubroMoly), though...FWIW.
 
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IMO, one of the 3 I would choose is:
M1 HM
Val Max Life
Rotella t5 10w30
Any of the above 3 without any extra additives would do a good job for you.
Does this engine have roller lifters? If not I wouldn't use any of the sm or sn oils.

edit: I beleive it is a roller cam
 
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