"No Smoke" additives - Bardahl, etc

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Bars, Bardahl, Rislone, even Lucas

Yes? No? even "Motor Honey" a few different products on the shelf claim to stop start-up smoke. what is the deal?

Please educate me. Thank you
 
Originally Posted By: gfh77665
A "last gasp" product for beaters. Won't hurt them, might help some. Nothing to lose at that point.


How do they "Work?"

its designed to put off a "Valve job" right. i wonder what type of "smoke" it refers to.

mine began having "smoke at startup" for about 5 minutes, grey in color, afteri put in a lot of fel injector cleaner, i also changed the oil with no additives. put a LOT of fuel injector cleaner down carburetor fuel hole, though. its "grey" smoke

i can take a vid of it. its not white smoke its grey. Rich mixture maybe ? nothing to worry about ?
 
no oil additive is going to help valves unless you mean valve stem seals. Thicker oil can help worn bearings and maybe rings. I'm sure the smoke they refer to is from rings.

oil smoke is blue.
 
Originally Posted By: SuperFast

How do they "Work?"


Quite often exactly the opposite of the way they're supposed to.

They work by thickening the oil. Intuition always says that thick oil should be harder to push past the rings, right?

Problem is, the oil doesn't "push" past rings at all. Oil gets sprayed on the cylinder wall when the piston is up, then when the piston comes down the oil-control ring scrapes excess oil off and flicks it back into the sump. When rings get worn, they can't scrape as well and more oil stays stuck to the cylinder wall, and oil consumption goes up. Thickening the oil that gets sprayed on the cylinder *may* in some cases just mean the the oil control ring rides up and over a thicker layer of oil, leaving MORE of it to burn. Doesn't always work that way, but sometimes it does.
 
its valve stem seals leaking oil in the cylinder over night after you shut if off.
keep running maxlife and it will go away maybe. or just step up to 10/40
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
Originally Posted By: SuperFast

How do they "Work?"


Quite often exactly the opposite of the way they're supposed to.

They work by thickening the oil. Intuition always says that thick oil should be harder to push past the rings, right?

Problem is, the oil doesn't "push" past rings at all. Oil gets sprayed on the cylinder wall when the piston is up, then when the piston comes down the oil-control ring scrapes excess oil off and flicks it back into the sump. When rings get worn, they can't scrape as well and more oil stays stuck to the cylinder wall, and oil consumption goes up. Thickening the oil that gets sprayed on the cylinder *may* in some cases just mean the the oil control ring rides up and over a thicker layer of oil, leaving MORE of it to burn. Doesn't always work that way, but sometimes it does.


Someone posted this before and Shell did a study a few years back and showed where oil burning/consumption was reduced by using thinner oils. Goes along with what you stated above.
 
+1

I am with Electrolover - just pick a good HM oil and run it. All the additives you asked about in this thread work by increasing the viscosity to try and prevent leakage past the valve stem seals so you don't get puddled oil on start-up. Puddled oil in the cylinders will cause blue smoke on start up (in fact, burning oil causes blue smoke period...)

But IIRC, Superfast, you've got about 10% MMO in the gas on this car, you're pouring cleaner down the carb and in the fuel tank, you've got MMO and something else in the oil, have I left anything else out?

I think the reason that you're getting grey smoke on start up is that you're not really running the car on gasoline and you're not really lubricating the car with oil...you've got some strange mix of stuff both in the tank and in the oil pan...what you're seeing is the combustion byproducts of this mix...so it won't look like regular gasoline byproducts (gasoline is close to iso-octane...8 carbons in the chain...who knows what other long carbon chain organic molecules are combining with oxygen on start-up with this car...and what color smoke they make...)

Check the rest of the filters (fuel, air) and change them too if need be...Then drive it until the tank is nearly empty, then fill it with straight gasoline - change the oil, put in a good HM with a new filter.

Don't try and fix everything on this car at once with chemicals and additives...or you're going to continue to see all kinds of odd side effects of what you're adding to its working fluids...stick with the recommended dose of one treatment at a time and give that one treatment time to work.

One or two ibuprofen will relieve a headache...20 or 30 will destroy your liver and kill you!

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
FWIW, before I had my short block Ford rebuilt in 2009, it smoked badly enough that someone reported it. I tried CD2 or Restore at each 2,000 OCI with Valvoline 10W30 dino.

Plus, I installed a proper 190 degree thermostat, driving it HARD whenever possible, having made sure the radiator and cooling system were in good shape.

The smoke and consumption were vastly reduced. Of course, the internals were plenty covered in sludge, but this approach bought me about three years of reliable use.

For the record, the original owner basically didn't drive it enough and the rings on one or two pistons were especially worn.
 
Originally Posted By: ag_ghost
FWIW, before I had my short block Ford rebuilt in 2009, it smoked badly enough that someone reported it. I tried CD2 or Restore at each 2,000 OCI with Valvoline 10W30 dino.

Plus, I installed a proper 190 degree thermostat, driving it HARD whenever possible, having made sure the radiator and cooling system were in good shape.

The smoke and consumption were vastly reduced. Of course, the internals were plenty covered in sludge, but this approach bought me about three years of reliable use.

For the record, the original owner basically didn't drive it enough and the rings on one or two pistons were especially worn.


the bolded part is what i suspect on mine. Wait until i post my "fill hole." Its NASTY with crud!!!


the bolded part is what i suspect on mine. Wait until i post my "fill hole." Its NASTY with crud!!!

I will try the 100% gasoiline, change Fuel Filter, andHM 10W-40 approach. Should work wonders
smile.gif


maybe ill post the fill hole today.
 
Note to ag_ghost:

oil control rings, etc. seldom becomes worn (unless you unintentionally ingest a lot of dusty grits, etc., extended runs w/o air filter, etc.), but stuck in the process of carboning up.

Ditto with compression rings, etc.

Q.
 
I can't disagree with your clarification. It'll be 24 months next June since I worked with my engine builder to tear the motor down, so it's become somewhat of a blur. The tops of the pistons were quite "carboned up". Photobucket links available if anyone cares.
 
I wonder what the viscosity is on that stuff. Wonder what it does to sludge monsters.
I picked up a bottle once in the store and that is one thick viscous stuff. Turned it over and waited for the bubble to work up, then turned the bottle upright and watched it again. They probably thought I was having issues, like why doesn't this lava lamp light up.
 
Originally Posted By: Errtt
I wonder what the viscosity is on that stuff. Wonder what it does to sludge monsters.
I picked up a bottle once in the store and that is one thick viscous stuff. Turned it over and waited for the bubble to work up, then turned the bottle upright and watched it again. They probably thought I was having issues, like why doesn't this lava lamp light up.


One of it is 80-weight. didnt even know they HAD 80 weight spec.

ive resisted every urge i have to dump a bottle or ahalf a bottle in my car. i think its getting down into "one or two" cylinders only, based on the wy it "smokes for 5 minutes then doesnt anymore" in the morning.

seems to be oil smoke, its not gas. and it doesnt do it uless it sat for awhiilel, like a few hours then i get a literal "puff" and it wafts away.
can ithurt my car? just asking its ANNOYING to live w that smoke, just wondering
 
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