Hi, what is the general opinion on replacing the two belts and friction disc on snowblowers? I have a 7 year old 9hp Tecumseh 29" Craftsman. This season has been esp. hard on it with the amount of snowfall. I would like to treat it to some maintenance this spring to ensure it will perform as it has been next winter. Thanks
Crafstman snowblower maintenance items
- Thread starter Jeepster_nut
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I don't know about the disc but I would change the belts. Last year I had a six year old belt that looked just fine. shred itself while blowing one of thos big snows we had in PA. It was a real pain trying to change it in the cold, not to mention trying to find one that fit at the hardware store as everybody seemed to be breaking belts.
This winter has been esp hard on snowblowers. I have a shear pin setup on my drive axle and I have snapped 3 shear bolts so far. I tend to run it in a higher gear than I should because I hate going so slow!
If you do nothing else write down the length of the belts you use somewhere (sharpie inside the belt guard is good) as the numbers wear off and the parts store guy will compare your stretched out belt to one on the shelf, often getting it too long by an inch.
I'd keep some belts (even your old ones) and shear pins around as the trip to the hardware store can be VERY aggravating if you have to shovel.
I'd keep some belts (even your old ones) and shear pins around as the trip to the hardware store can be VERY aggravating if you have to shovel.
If the area around the shear pin rust, then the shear pin will not shear, and you will bust up everything that the shear pin can no longer protect. The way to avoid this it to take that part of the machine apart before you put it away each year, enough to lube it with some water resitant grease, like a lithium that you would use for a boat trailer bearing.
The auger has zerks near each shear pin that I grease. The drive axle on the other hand baffles me as to why they used a shear pin setup through the drive sprocket and main axle. Other setups I have looked at in parts schematics dont use this setup.
So..... what I did was drill the hole in the sprocket and main axle one size bigger, and used a larger shear bolt. I think they design these machines to break so you have to bring it in for repair. I truly do lol
So..... what I did was drill the hole in the sprocket and main axle one size bigger, and used a larger shear bolt. I think they design these machines to break so you have to bring it in for repair. I truly do lol
Originally Posted By: Jeepster_nut
Hi, what is the general opinion on replacing the two belts and friction disc on snowblowers?
If they show signs of wear, sure. If not I don't see the point. The chance of a belt breaking out of the blue w/out an external cause is rare. Generally a tension issue is the cause. Friction wheels either work or they don't. As long as it's got a nice flat circumference and the rubber isn't all torn and lumpy, you're good to go.
Joel
Hi, what is the general opinion on replacing the two belts and friction disc on snowblowers?
If they show signs of wear, sure. If not I don't see the point. The chance of a belt breaking out of the blue w/out an external cause is rare. Generally a tension issue is the cause. Friction wheels either work or they don't. As long as it's got a nice flat circumference and the rubber isn't all torn and lumpy, you're good to go.
Joel
Originally Posted By: Jeepster_nut
The auger has zerks near each shear pin that I grease. The drive axle on the other hand baffles me as to why they used a shear pin setup through the drive sprocket and main axle. Other setups I have looked at in parts schematics dont use this setup.
Would this be to give one wheel drive (differential action) and two wheel drive?? Most blowers have this option...pin in the axle, one-wheel drive; pin through the wheel and axle, two wheel drive.
The auger has zerks near each shear pin that I grease. The drive axle on the other hand baffles me as to why they used a shear pin setup through the drive sprocket and main axle. Other setups I have looked at in parts schematics dont use this setup.
Would this be to give one wheel drive (differential action) and two wheel drive?? Most blowers have this option...pin in the axle, one-wheel drive; pin through the wheel and axle, two wheel drive.
The shear bolt is designed as the weakest point in the drive system. The purpose is to make an easy repair if you catch a rock or stone. ( Yes,it is a b*t*h if it happens at 10F). If you replace the shear bolts with oversized ones, then the auger drive gear may strip. Take your choice. FWIW--Oldtommy
Originally Posted By: deeter16317
Originally Posted By: Jeepster_nut
The auger has zerks near each shear pin that I grease. The drive axle on the other hand baffles me as to why they used a shear pin setup through the drive sprocket and main axle. Other setups I have looked at in parts schematics dont use this setup.
Would this be to give one wheel drive (differential action) and two wheel drive?? Most blowers have this option...pin in the axle, one-wheel drive; pin through the wheel and axle, two wheel drive.
I have the bolt you are talking about, its on the outside wheel which it does control the one wheel/two wheel drive option. This bolt I was referring to is on the axle under the service pan underneath.
Originally Posted By: Jeepster_nut
The auger has zerks near each shear pin that I grease. The drive axle on the other hand baffles me as to why they used a shear pin setup through the drive sprocket and main axle. Other setups I have looked at in parts schematics dont use this setup.
Would this be to give one wheel drive (differential action) and two wheel drive?? Most blowers have this option...pin in the axle, one-wheel drive; pin through the wheel and axle, two wheel drive.
I have the bolt you are talking about, its on the outside wheel which it does control the one wheel/two wheel drive option. This bolt I was referring to is on the axle under the service pan underneath.
Originally Posted By: 2oldtommy
The shear bolt is designed as the weakest point in the drive system. The purpose is to make an easy repair if you catch a rock or stone. ( Yes,it is a b*t*h if it happens at 10F). If you replace the shear bolts with oversized ones, then the auger drive gear may strip. Take your choice. FWIW--Oldtommy
I understand, the auger has the factory shear bolts through them. I am talking about a shear bolt that is in the driveline under the service pan. It goes through the drive sprocket and through the axle.
The shear bolt is designed as the weakest point in the drive system. The purpose is to make an easy repair if you catch a rock or stone. ( Yes,it is a b*t*h if it happens at 10F). If you replace the shear bolts with oversized ones, then the auger drive gear may strip. Take your choice. FWIW--Oldtommy
I understand, the auger has the factory shear bolts through them. I am talking about a shear bolt that is in the driveline under the service pan. It goes through the drive sprocket and through the axle.
My Snowblower is the same as yours (Noma design.) FWIW, Mine is 17 years old and on the original belts and disc. I may change the belts this summer as preventative maintenance but they haven't given me any trouble yet.
What does Noma design mean? I have since inpected the belts and I am going to just keep a set on hand and wait till they actually need replacing as previously suggested.
Noma originally designed and produced the snowblower I own for Craftsman and many other store brands.
Noma was purchased by Murray who continued to supply Craftsman with snowblowers.
Murray was purchased by Briggs & Stratton. At some point Craftsman switched to a different supplier. I guess I would have to see a picture of your snowblower to know for sure if it is a Noma/Murray or a newer (MTD?) supplier.
Briggs & Stratton still sells the old Noma 2 stage 8-11 horse snowblower today under the Snapper brand. I saw one in a store this fall.
Anyway the Noma design seems to be decent and they are the same no matter what color they are painted. Mine is painted black and is branded "Spirit". I don't know what store sold "Spirit", I bought mine used in 1997.
Noma was purchased by Murray who continued to supply Craftsman with snowblowers.
Murray was purchased by Briggs & Stratton. At some point Craftsman switched to a different supplier. I guess I would have to see a picture of your snowblower to know for sure if it is a Noma/Murray or a newer (MTD?) supplier.
Briggs & Stratton still sells the old Noma 2 stage 8-11 horse snowblower today under the Snapper brand. I saw one in a store this fall.
Anyway the Noma design seems to be decent and they are the same no matter what color they are painted. Mine is painted black and is branded "Spirit". I don't know what store sold "Spirit", I bought mine used in 1997.
my snowblower 10 horsepower Tecumseh engine starts then starts to flood itself when engaged and chokes itself out . What could do this?
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