Auto-RX in 3.0L Camry

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After reading this forum for a while and looking for sludge removal additives. I decided to stop on Auto-RX.
I recently bought 1999 Camry with V6 3.0L engine. It had a manual tranny and good price, only 2 owners and engine bay is very clean with new fluids,wires, hoses and so on. So I couldn't resist.
Right after I bought it, oil was changed to synthetic M1 5w-30 and M1 filter.
First thing I noticed after couple days, was a white smoke puffs, at morning start ups.
I blamed it on faulty O2 sensors.
Both sensors where changed out, car started feeling better.
Next thing happened --I got misfire code, Steering wheel was vibrating a little, which was blamed on old engine mounts( as I know a week point in those models), even 1 of them looked new.
Finally I thought about spark plugs,even with brand new looking wires, decided to check them out. And most of them had a deposits on them, and some had a lot of it. 3 back plugs had little oil in shafts, and spots of burned oil.
So I changed them, even it's pain in the butt to reach back ones. I put in NGK Iridium plugs, which considered as oem. Before it had Bosh platinum which is not listed as oem.
Car started to feel much better, vibration is much much less than it was.
Then other day I was going to check the oil level, and my dipstick was dry
confused2.gif
I checked car for leaks again, checked drive way. No sings of leaks. So I was confused a lot. Did a researched, and found out that it is most likely to be sludge. And that 3.0L Toyota of that model is known for getting sludge even it was maintained right.
Next disappointment was after my round tip for about 900 miles. My oil light came on. I pulled over to gas station right away and added a quoter of oil. Light turned off. So the car ate oil. It passed more than 3000 miles after a change, but I was going to keep synthetic till 5k, which I did. But during another 2k miles I added about 3 quarts of oil. Because oil light was blinking due oil level tilt when I was breaking on hills or breaking from fast speed.
Couple days ago I finally got my 3 bottles of Auto-RX.
Drained oil ( was about 3 quarts left, not sure but not 5 def.)
So I put in cheap Dino oil Super Tech 5w-30 and 15oz of ARX.
Then I found out that instructions have been changed and now are custom for each user.
I contacted ARX guys, and Gary answered really quick even in the middle of night.
Thats what got from him:
Thank you for the additional information.

I recommend:

Add another bottle of Auto-Rx now
Change filter @ 500 miles after 2nd bottle added - add oil as needed
Change filter @ 1000miles (1500+) add oil as needed
Change filter @ 1000 miles (2500+) add oil as needed
Change filter @ 1000 miles (3500+) add oil as needed
Change filter @ 1000 miles (4500+) add oil as needed
Change oil and filter @ 1000 miles (5500+) DO NOT ADD AUTO-RX
Change filter @ 1000 miles
Run oil and filter to 3000 total miles
Change oil and filter
Add last bottle of Auto-Rx
Drive 3000 miles
Change oil and filter
Drive 3000 miles
Return to your normal oil and time/mileage oil change interval.

This will give you the best result in a reasonable time frame. Otherwise, it can take well over a year (or more).

If you have any additional questions, just hit the reply button.

Regards,
Gary

So I heated up engine and ARX, so it will be more runny and added the rest what was in second bottle (9 oz.)
And first thing I mentioned after 300 miles using ARX-- I can finally measure my oil level ( Before I tried my Fathers dip stick from Mini Cooper S, with same results, but it was longer and it had a peace of black goo sticked to it, which proved that I got sludge.)
Second thing, I mentioned today when added ARX that filler cap is cleaner. Oil screen looked same to me, same dirty. I hate that stupid screen, It takes forever to fill oil and you can't look inside.
 
Also went today to Autozone and got 5 different filters for experiment. Will try to cut open each one and take picture. Right now I have Super Tech wich will be changed out in 200 miles. Also I got 2 Frams 3x, 1 Fram 6X, Bosh, STP,Ac-Delco. Other 3 will get with oil deal, when you buy oil and get 1 free. Planning on putting 10w-40 Super Tech(already have a jug) when it will be warmer, and then Penzoil, and probably will add Penzoil Syntec for the first phase (since it's 5k miles) when needed.
After that planning to use Lubro Moly Oil http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/e_1390.html
Which was recommended to by some guy who just came here from Europe to work for local company. He is very good Mechanic, who used to work on cars for half of his life, firs on German cars, then last 10 years used to work as tech at Mitsubishi Dealership, later becoming Manager of Tech department.
He said it's a best oil he ever used in his practice, and I believe him. Also planning to use some of their additives.
And some ARX in tranny and PS before flush.
 
Well, It is just going to take some time, ARx works for some others it doesn't. All I can say is stay with the instructions, run MMO in it later and do 3-5K oil changes considering the oil you choose. Pennzoil claims to be the "clean up" oil you can run various grades of that or you can really pack some punch and run an OCI of RedLine 5w30, which is an ester based oil that is very attracted to the metals of your engine and thus will help with cleaning and it is an all out great oil...a little pricey though (it is basically what ARx is ester oil). I would just use MMO in your oil from here on out with the conventional oil of your choice.
 
Originally Posted By: zyxelenator
Also went today to Autozone and got 5 different filters for experiment. Will try to cut open each one and take picture. Right now I have Super Tech wich will be changed out in 200 miles. Also I got 2 Frams 3x, 1 Fram 6X, Bosh, STP,Ac-Delco. Other 3 will get with oil deal, when you buy oil and get 1 free. Planning on putting 10w-40 Super Tech(already have a jug) when it will be warmer, and then Penzoil, and probably will add Penzoil Syntec for the first phase (since it's 5k miles) when needed.
After that planning to use Lubro Moly Oil http://www.liqui-moly.de/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/e_1390.html
Which was recommended to by some guy who just came here from Europe to work for local company. He is very good Mechanic, who used to work on cars for half of his life, firs on German cars, then last 10 years used to work as tech at Mitsubishi Dealership, later becoming Manager of Tech department.
He said it's a best oil he ever used in his practice, and I believe him. Also planning to use some of their additives.
And some ARX in tranny and PS before flush.


I will reserve judgement for Lubromoly Oils but you really don't need them, they have a high price tag and don't have Moly. It's kind of funny. Most lubromoly additive just floats around in the oil or gets trapped in the oil filter. I think your best bet is conventional (Pennz is great) w/MMO and shorter Oil changes.
 
Picture of oil filler before ARX, and stupid, dirty oil screen.
Quality is not best, taken on phone camera.
179391_1828751798586_1234067970_32225059_889029_n.jpg
 
A couple of thoughts - first, white smoke on start-up is usually condensation and nothing to worry about...if it's really white and not blue (oil). But O2 sensors make no difference until they, and the engine, are warmed up and the computer goes closed-loop.

You definitely have sludge - the question is do you also have damage? If the oil pressure light comes on - your pressure is way low, way too low to be providing lubrication. You can damage bearings in seconds.

You say that you added oil and the light went out...I assumed you checked the level and it was really low? It may be that the oil is not draining back into the crankcase (sludge) or it may be that the engine is really using oil...neither is good...

Any decent oil is fine for your approach, but I am not a Fram fan for filters...though I am not sure what a Fram 3x is... or a 6x...if they're the toughguard, they're OK...

Any way you can install an oil pressure gauge? You're going to damage the enngine if that pressure light keeps coming on...and a gauge willgive you a much better idea of what's going on...you might consider dropping the oil pan and simply cleaning the sludge from the pan before the sludge clogs the pick-up, then pull the valve covers off and clean the sludge from under them to make sure oil isn't getting trapped in the cylinder heads...
 
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Originally Posted By: chubbs1

I will reserve judgement for Lubromoly Oils but you really don't need them, they have a high price tag and don't have Moly. It's kind of funny. Most lubromoly additive just floats around in the oil or gets trapped in the oil filter. I think your best bet is conventional (Pennz is great) w/MMO and shorter Oil changes.

He could point it out which one has it, but he said it had German can,(different manes in USA and UK) with german name on it. But mentioned that it was Green, Purple and Silver kinds. Will search for more details on Europe forums, and E-bay. So far cheapest 5L jug 10w-60 oil ( Which he claimed aka the best) is for 40$
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
A couple of thoughts - first, white smoke on start-up is usually condensation and nothing to worry about...if it's really white and not blue (oil). But O2 sensors make no difference until they, and the engine, are warmed up and the computer goes closed-loop.

You definitely have sludge - the question is do you also have damage? If the oil pressure light comes on - your pressure is way low, way too low to be providing lubrication. You can damage bearings in seconds.

You say that you added oil and the light went out...I assumed you checked the level and it was really low? It may be that the oil is not draining back into the crankcase (sludge) or it may be that the engine is really using oil...neither is good...

Any decent oil is fine for your approach, but I am not a Fram fan for filters...though I am not sure what a Fram 3x is... or a 6x...if they're the toughguard, they're OK...

Any way you can install an oil pressure gauge? You're going to damage the enngine if that pressure light keeps coming on...and a gauge willgive you a much better idea of what's going on...you might consider dropping the oil pan and simply cleaning the sludge from the pan before the sludge clogs the pick-up, then pull the valve covers off and clean the sludge from under them to make sure oil isn't getting trapped in the cylinder heads...
I couldn't check oil because dip stick was always dry, even after oil was just filled up. Now I can check it. Gauge if it's DIY possible--will try. Now I know that It burns oil for sure,(not a lot came out during drain). Will keep checking and adding for sure when it's filter time change.
Frams 6x--Tough Guard, 3x is regular. Will go check.
 
You don't need a fancy oil like lubro-moly, that would just be a waste of money. And don't use a 60 weight oil in that car, just stick with the 30 weight oils. Follow those instructions about the arx use( as crazy as they are ) as best you can, always making sure you're not low on oil.

Good luck and keep us posted-
 
how bout PU after. and MMO


im curious to see if the arx works with that plan. seems like all the sludge will end up in the pan
 
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I've got one of those engines too, and your approach sounds good. The Auto-Rx program worked for me in that engine.
Once clean, you could do the MMO with a good dino or syn 5w30 as previously suggested .
You might want to get a dealer (OEM) PCV valve and change that now however.
 
I took PCV valve out and cleaned it out with a jet of Air Sensor cleaner, even it didn't look to dirty.Not do long ago. Will change it after first phase.
Chart says 5-30, 5-20. But how it will take temps above 100f in summer?
 
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5W-30 is all you need in your Camry. When you either get a new Camry or exotic car, then you can use the exotic oils. The only Lubro Moly oil that actually has moly in it is their 10W-40. And I agree with the poster above, DO NOT use anything that has xxW-60 on it.
 
Well, guess my filler cap is outdated. It says 10w-30. Will stick with 5-30, as I usually I put in all my cars. Maybe will try once 5-20 during clean.
 
10W-30 was probably the weight recommended when the car was new. I would imagine the owners manual said something about using 5W-30 in certain temps. For now the 5W-30 will flow a little better, which you need.
 
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