Craftsman snowblower transmission problems

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Hey guys,
I have an 8hp/25 blower that I haven't used for 2 years (didn't really snow last year so didn't use it) & was fixing the carb because it would bog down while throwing snow. Anyway, point it, hasn't been used in close to 2 years. So, now that snow is near & I have time, I decided to see if I can get it going. Cleaned up carb & it started on the 2nd pull. Didn't even have to adjust the power screw as it's not popping on full speed.
But, the problem is that my trans is sorta seizing up. I sprayed it anywhere I can but it doesn't seem to be helping. It's got trax, not wheels. If you do get it moving, it'll stay in that 1 direction, but still not going great. So, you go backwards, then forwards, then it won't wanna go backwards. Try forwards again, it's stuck. I opened the bottom cover & saw the trans. but it seems to be sealed. Also, working on it seems like I have to turn it upside down.
Any ideas on what I can do to un-seize it?
It looks like this:
[img=http://img14.imagevenue.com/loc201/th_04069_100_1036_122_201lo.jpg]

[img=http://img121.imagevenue.com/loc94/th_04140_100_1047_122_94lo.jpg]
 
Go to this forum.

There are people over there familiar with that machine who might be able to help.

http://www.abbysguide.com/ope/discussions/

I'm not familiar with track drive machines but if the propulsion system is disk drive, you may have contaminated the disk with whatever you were spraying causing the friction wheel to slip. You should pull the belly pan off and clean the disk off with brake rotor cleaner or another grease remover that will leave the disk surface dry. Clean the rubber surface on the friction wheel as well. While you're in there inspect the condition of the rubber for cracks and wearing.
 
Not sure on that machine but most blowers use the friction wheel against the metel disc for the variable drive . The most common problem with this system is the rubber wears off the friction wheel and the machine won't move . It's just a simple matter of replacing that wheel with the rubber to repair the problem .

Must have been typing about the same time boraticus
 
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Usually, to service/inspect the transmission, a mechanic will tip a snow blower up on the front, (auger down, rear end up).
Not upside down.
It's called the service position IIRC.

Had my own troubles last year with trans jumping out of gear, mechanic can't find anything wrong so far???????????
 
Wow guys, thanks for the responses & help!! Much appreciated!
Yeah, I could see the round metal wheel type, which must be the disc you speak of. I got a little grease on it, but I doubt that that is the whole problem. It was seizing before I sprayed anything on it. I will clean it up & see for this rubber. If I need to sorta have it lifted from the handle to work on it, I'm sure I can make something to hold it, along with my pops to make sure it doesn't fall over & kill me.
Since I'm here, in regards to tuning it, I did as I was told to by some guys on BITOG before. But I wanted to ask, the high speed screw, it's 1.5 turns out from all the way in. If it's running good, no popping on high (but no real load), do I need to fine tune it, or not really? As long as it runs & throws snow without bogging or clogging, I'm happy!!
 
I had two of those Tecumseh L head engines and they were solid performers. The high speed screw on the bottom of the carb needs to be fine tuned for the engine to run smoothly under load. You can try the base setting of 1.5 turns out but make fine adjustments as you work with the machine. If you put a good load on the engine while working at max. rpms, it should bark a bit but not stutter. When not under load, it should run smoothly with no rpm hunting. Just make small adjustments. You'll know when you get it right.

Regarding the drive, now that you can see what makes it go, you can take steps to ensure the disk is clean and the rubber edge of the drive wheel is also free of grease and in good working condition. If those two components are good, it's a matter of adjusting the cable that engages the drive system. They can be a bit finicky and adjustments should be in small increments.
 
As boraticus said, the rubber wheel and the disk it runs on must be free of oil and grease. You said it seizes up. Do you mean the lever that controls speed and direction gets hard to move and then you can't change speed or direction easily? That rubber tired wheel has to slide freely on it's shaft to change speed and direction. Judging by how rusty the blower looks I bet that shaft needs to be greased. A thin coat of white lithium grease is what is used for this.
 
Could also be an issue with the tensioner for the drive system. Like said, you have to drain the fuel and flip it over forward on it's mouth to take the belly pan off to diagnose.

Joel
 
Had the same problem with both tracks not moving then one moving, played back and forth and would catch again then stop again.
With trac drive the drive wheel and idler wheel are plastic with a metal shaft. After time, especially if you have salt on the roads in your area the wheels freeze on the shafts.
Had to take the tracks apart and work the wheels off of the shafts. One I had to put the bolt back in the shaft and hammer( gently at first ) the shaft with a brass punch one end then the other to get movement. Cleaned the rust with emery paper and gave it a good coating of grease. When all 4 shafts are cleaned up you should be able to turn the track by hand with little effort.
Tip: If you have electric start and need to move the machine if not running use an extension cord, engage the drive lever and use the start button to move the machine.
 
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