WHAT IS MAXIMUM OIL TEMP

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Those IIIG oil tests allow a 149.5% increase in viscosity , and as long as there are no stuck rings, excessive cam wear, and less than about 5 qts of oil usage, the oil is deemed OK.
I would like to see them test at 10 hours at 150C, and give results. They would be more realistic and meaningful.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Laminar Lou:
Very nice pictures. Very stealth, I like it.
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THANKS
When the hood is down it looks pretty much like any other old vette. The only thing that would give a clue is the tires but since not one person in a thousand knows what came on the car they don't suspect anything.
Lot of kids with the late model GT Mudstains want to run it.
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quote:

Originally posted by Clyde65:
Well I Googled my question. Apparently it's a belt driven centrifugal compressor.

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Well you are close to being right. I ran one of those blowers like you show in your post 4 years ago on a built 350. But when i built the 406 the air demand was more than this little blower cold muster. The P1 will flow 1200 CFM and is only good for a Maximum of about 775HP so with a 150 shot of Nitrous I was still less than 1000HP. The D1-R that I installed flows 2000CFM and with the custom built Turbonetics intercooler it will go 1200HP then add the Nitrous on top of that and now you are making some serious power. That is why the heat problem with the oil. I'm building a fire in her. To the person that didn't take the time to read my post and thought that I should buy a oil cooler the present oil cooler measures 16x22 inches. I don't have room for a larger one. The problem with these cars is lack of air flow through the front. I built a custom grill and put it in place of the solid front that comes from the factory.At a steady speed the oil don't overheat it is the wide open acceleration that heats it up.
 
You're not the first person I've seen on message boards with cooling issues on built up Vettes. I mean, the grille opening is 1/8th the size of the one in my Toyota Corolla! Doesn't it get most of the airflow from underneath via an airdam? 200mph flat out and under 300 degree oil temps I'd say is not bad. You could step up to Redline oil which will handle 300 degree oil temps like regular oil will handle 180 degree temps.
 
Do you think venting the engine compartment would help to get more air flowing thru it?

via hoodvents or raising the rear of your hood "drifter-style"?

At the same time you could add a vent/intake for you air filter and seal it off from the rest of the engine compartment.

Thermal coatings like www.swaintech.com or www.techline.com offer?
I'm pretty sure HPC and Jet-Hot use Techline products.
 
The engine was built by Samsel Racing in Marion,Indiana.
I already have the jethot coating on the inside and outside of the headers. In addition to the coating the headers are wrapped with thermo-tech header wrap. I have gills in the side of the front fenders to allow the air out but i think I need more air in. I built a small grill in the front and that helped a lot.
Running at high speeds is not much of a heat problem as running it through the gears and then stopping and doing it again.
That is what I was doing when it got hot was 5 runs from 0 to 200+ on each run. Steady running at high speed is not as much of a problem
I feel much better since so many have said that my M1 would be ok. Would Amsoil take the heat better than my M1
 
Black Bart, for an all out engine like yours under such short intervals, Red Line Racing 40wt/50wt or equivalent for the active part of the season, M1 EP or equivalent to put it to bed.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Drew99GT:
So, have you ever taken that rocket to a drag strip??? How long from 0 - 200 mph
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With the tires that I use on it all the time it run the quarter in 8.95/159mph.
Traction is a big problem.
This is a full weight car in street trim. If I was to put slicks on it and remove the air conditioning and power windows lighten it up it would do much better but I have no plans to do that.
This is just a fun to drive street car not a race car. When I was younger I drove a sprint car for about 8 years. Ran a lot of half mile dirt tracks and their is nothing like throwing it into a power slide at 130 MPh with another car only inches away right beside you. REAL ADRENALIN RUSH. I have had my turn at real competitive racing. Now I'm down to just cruising with a quick street car.
I'm a little bit afraid of the 40w50 oil since some of the oil filters allow oil to bypass I blocked the by pass and all the oil must go through the filter. A filter failure would result in destroying the engine but with a high pressure pump and heavy oil would I risk bursting the filter.
 
What kind of tranny does it have? That's one of the fastest street cars I've ever seen! I bet that thing does 0 to 200 faster than my Corolla does 0 to 60. seriously!
 
No worries Black Bart. At anything above freezing, even RedLine 50 wt is thinner than M1 15w50.

code:

RedLine Racing 50 wt(15w50)

Vis @ 100°C, cSt 16.8

Vis @ 40°C, cSt 118

CCS Viscosity, Poise 34 @ -15°C

Pour Point, °C -45


code:

RedLine Racing 40 wt(15w40)

Vis @ 100°C, cSt 13.5

Vis @ 40°C, cSt 93

CCS Viscosity, Poise 33 @ -15°C

Pour Point, °C -45


code:

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 15w50

Vis @ 100°C, cSt 18

Vis @ 40°C, cSt 138

Pour Point, °C -42


 
"How hot can I run my Mobil-1"

Mobil 1 (and many other oils) can withstand 300dF basically forever and up to 350dF for a short while.

The problem is that some of your internal engine parts cannot. This is because you engine is designed to use an oil of a specific viscosity probably around 8-10 cSt. This, further, means that when the oil gets thinner than 3-odd cSt that the oil film is no longer capable of keeping metal from metal contacts.

3-odd cSt occurs at 265-280dF with xW-30 oils and 280-300dF with xW-40 oils (with good HTHS numbrs).

So, while the oil will not burn, sludge, or degrade, the same may not be true for you engine!
 
quote:

Originally posted by Black Bart:
I'm a little bit afraid of the 40w50 oil since some of the oil filters allow oil to bypass I blocked the by pass and all the oil must go through the filter. A filter failure would result in destroying the engine but with a high pressure pump and heavy oil would I risk bursting the filter.

I just spotted this. Here's a thread you might want to read:

http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=6;t=003729

I believe the general consensus is that you better have your ducks lined up in a row if you run without a filter bypass valve.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Mitch Alsup:
3-odd cSt occurs at 265-280dF with xW-30 oils and 280-300dF with xW-40 oils (with good HTHS numbrs).

Mitch, just outta curiosity, how are you coming up with those numbers? You factoring in temporary shear and/or localized temps?
 
quote:

Originally posted by LT4 Vette:
200 miles per hour !!!!
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Maybe you should enter your car in the Daytona 500
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Surely you jest. I assume you are talking about Nascar or what I refer to as WWF on four wheels.The way those guys bash and crash I don't want my vette anywhere close to them beside they are restricted to 355 CID with a restrictor to reduce the power my car has a 406 CID with a supercharger it would go pass one of those cars like a freight train going by a hobo.
The restrictor plate cars only make 550hp and that body would be about as aerodynamic as a brick.
That filter story scares the **** out of me. I have been using the PF35L and 15-50 for 6 years and the only problem is that I had to replace the rod and main bearings at 5000 miles they were down to the copper. While 5000 miles don't seem to bad this engine is driven a lot of those miles at normal speeds only occasionally run real hard. I think part of that problem was the oil pump. Most big name engine builders recommend a standard volume pump even John Lengenfelter recommends it but my engine makes much more power than the average street engine. When the bearings failed I replaced them and installed a HPHV pump. Been three years and no lose in oil pressure yet.
DREW99GT the transmission is a ZF-6 speed manual 5th and 6th are overdrives. The car at red-line in 6th would be doing 310mph but it gets too much air under it and becomes imposable to handle. Best I have ever seen is 264 and that was really about 10mph faster than what I was comfortable with it was really getting light.
427Z06 You have me rethinking my decision to block the oil bypass in the block. When I change the filter I may remove it. If the bypass in the filter opens dirty oil would be better than no oil. But on the other side of the argument is the fact that it has been running for 6 years like that with no problems other than the short bearing life. If it ain't broke don't fix it.
I just sold it this summer but I had a Kawasaki that I bored out to 1300 cc installed blower grind cams and a Ray-jay turbo and port work on the head and it made over 300 hp at the counter shaft. Stripped the bike down to less than 400lbs. Man that thing was awesome but I had to replace the wrist pins every 300 miles they were as blue as a gun barrel. Making big power does not go hand in hand with long engine life. I kinda got of topic but when I came here seeking advice about my oil some wanted to know more about the car.
You guy's have given me some things to think about. This winter I was thinking of increasing the nitrous to make more power but before I do that I think I need to get the heat under control
 
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