Likely cause of slow leak

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Jul 28, 2010
Messages
2,269
Location
NL, Canada
My two front tires have lately begun to slowly leak and need air every few days. Both are fairly new Goodyear Nordic on steel rims. Wondering if the culprit is more likely to be leaky valves or pin hole(s), and the easiest way to determine which it is. Both are suspect at this point. With a lot of construction and very rough gravel being driven over lately (near an exit I take home, and on the main route from work), a small puncture from a stone may be possible, as the leaks only developed after that construction started - though it could be coincidence.

Any thoughts appreciated.

-Spyder
 
Check the valves, tighten the pins, it's odd that two tires have a problem. I'd also have a look at the seal between the tire and the rim. You might have to remove the wheels and test them for leaks in a tub of water. If they are fairly new bring them back to the store you got them from. My guy fixes flats and checks for leaks etc., for free as long as he sold me the tires.
 
These are covered under a similar warranty - the catch is they came with the car, and the warranty is non-transferable.

-Spyder
 
Probably leaking around the bead. If the rim isn't properly cleaned before the tire is mounted, this is the end result.
 
If the rims are steel, you could have some rust developing in the bead area preventing a good seal between the tire and rim. Only solution is to demount the tires, remove the rust, prime and paint. Agree that best way to diagnose is to take the wheels off, put them in your bathtub and look for bubbles.
 
Is the weather on "The Rock" getting colder as the days go by ? That will make the pressure decrease.

Mix up a strong batch of soapy dishwashing detergent and slather the mixture onto the tire/wheel assy and let it sit ... the bubbles will show where the leaks are if there are any.
 
+1

I would still check the valves. Tighten the valve and soapy water or even some spit on the tip of your finger and wipe across the top of the stem with out the cap will bubble. Wiggle the stem back and forth with the soapy water on it too and check around the base. Any idea how old they are?
 
Just get a spray bottle at any hardware store, fill it with like two good squeezes of Dawn and the rest with water. Take the tire off, fill it to the max psi on the sidewall, spray it off with water from a hose, and spray the bejeezus out of the tire with the spray bottle. Spray the tread, sidewalls, around the bead, and valve stem, and look for bubbles to start rolling out.
 
Sometimes valve stems develop a leak at the very bottom. Right through a crack the rubber body. I have had great success repairing such a leak by putting some rubber glu with a medical syringe through the main hole (not through the crack which is hard to see). Just did't want to have my tire removed/mounted for no reason.
 
Originally Posted By: Prelude
Sometimes valve stems develop a leak at the very bottom. Right through a crack the rubber body. I have had great success repairing such a leak by putting some rubber glu with a medical syringe through the main hole (not through the crack which is hard to see). Just did't want to have my tire removed/mounted for no reason.


I know, right? Who would want an actual, safe, new valve stem in their wheel assembly at a cost of $12 to $15 or even done for free at most shops? Instead, let's put our own personal and the safety of others at risk.
 
I have a problem that is a complication on these two tires and potentially the source on one. They came with the car and this is the first winter I put them on for; when they were put on, the shop that did it brought me to show, before they put them on, that a good piece of the bead had been stripped at some point before I bought the car (and its tires) by the machine the shops use to remove it from the rim. I agreed with the mechanic that they were lucky to get it sealed this time, but that the next time it comes off its recycle material.

With the instability introduced by using tires with significant wear differences on the same axle, both will need to be replaced when the one with the damaged bead is. To avoid having this issue resurface again, I'll be moving to dedicated summer alloy rims and using my steelies for dedicated winter use so that once the tire goes on the rim, it'll remain on it for the life of the tire.

I suppose the only good news here is that they were included with the car, which was bought for $1,500 under market value. They're also a cheaper tire (a full set can be had for $200 on the sale they often are on for). My back two tires were bought separately and, due to wear, will be used for this winter only.

I'm just trying to get this one coming winter season out of the set, and come spring they'll go to the tire recycle shop and I'll resurface the rims and rust proof them (with POR-15) over the summer in preparation for new winter tires for next year.

Meantime, since discovering the leaks, I've been checking tpsi every couple days and adding air as necessary with the compressor I keep in the trunk. Its a PITA, but the rainbow at the end is that worst case I only have to do this for this winter, then they'll be replaced and I shouldn't have to deal with a stripped bead again, plus the replacements will be warrantied and the rims they go on will be resurfaced and properly rust proofed.

I'd hoped to see a few more seasons out of the front winters than I will, but given their cost and that I got them with the car, its not impacting me like it would be if I'd bought them out of pocket myself and was faced with the same issue I am now. If anything I'm taking something out of the experience to ensure that when I do put down my own hard earned money for some better winter rubber, the problem that developed with one of these, due to seasonal swapping and the half assed way a lot of shops do it, won't be again.

-Spyder
 
Spyder,

In all likelihood, the damage was done when the tires were remounted, not when they were dismounted.

When tires are mounted - about 60% of the way through mounting the last bead - the bead has to go over the rim flange and is trapped against the rim flange, just before it slips over that edge. If the guy mounting the tires doesn't get enough mounting lube on the tire and the rim (yes, the rim, too!), then the toe of the bead could be torn. Everyone seems to blame this on the dismounting process, but there is no point in the dismounting process where the bead is subjected to such a condition.
 
Thanks for pointing this one out because now, when I buy my dedicated tire and rim combo, I'm going to make sure I'm present when the tires are mounted onto the rim; if the shop gives me any grief about that, then no sale - I'll go elsewhere where I can observe it to make sure its done properly and they're put on undamaged.

Then they'll stay on the rims they're mounted on until its time to have them replaced. Light summer alloy rims I'm getting for Christmas, I just have to choose which ones and decide whether to stick with the 14" that are standard for this model, or plus size and move up to a 15".

My winters, if they make it to Spring, will come off and go to the recyclers so that I can clean the steelies up properly, and rustproof and paint; then same for the new winters: no sale unless I can observe them being installed onto the dedicated rims to ensure they go on undamaged.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Thanks for pointing this one out because now, when I buy my dedicated tire and rim combo, I'm going to make sure I'm present when the tires are mounted onto the rim; if the shop gives me any grief about that, then no sale - I'll go elsewhere where I can observe it to make sure its done properly and they're put on undamaged..........


Honestly, unless you are right on top of the machine, you will not see it happen. Plus you have to know what to look for and it happens pretty quickly. If you are that close, you'll be in the way! I don't think this is a good idea.
 
Originally Posted By: HWEaton
Originally Posted By: Prelude
Sometimes valve stems develop a leak at the very bottom. Right through a crack the rubber body. I have had great success repairing such a leak by putting some rubber glu with a medical syringe through the main hole (not through the crack which is hard to see). Just did't want to have my tire removed/mounted for no reason.


I know, right? Who would want an actual, safe, new valve stem in their wheel assembly at a cost of $12 to $15 or even done for free at most shops? Instead, let's put our own personal and the safety of others at risk.
+1-you don't have to take a tire completely off to replace a valve stem-just has to have the bead broken down right by the stem, no rebalance necessary!
 
Originally Posted By: CapriRacer
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
Thanks for pointing this one out because now, when I buy my dedicated tire and rim combo, I'm going to make sure I'm present when the tires are mounted onto the rim; if the shop gives me any grief about that, then no sale - I'll go elsewhere where I can observe it to make sure its done properly and they're put on undamaged..........


Honestly, unless you are right on top of the machine, you will not see it happen. Plus you have to know what to look for and it happens pretty quickly. If you are that close, you'll be in the way! I don't think this is a good idea.


So there's a significant chance the new tires will be have the bead stripped when I have them installed, and I have no way of ensuring the bead is damaged when they're put on? Or am I missing something (I hope I am)?

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
Originally Posted By: HWEaton
Originally Posted By: Prelude
Sometimes valve stems develop a leak at the very bottom. Right through a crack the rubber body. I have had great success repairing such a leak by putting some rubber glu with a medical syringe through the main hole (not through the crack which is hard to see). Just did't want to have my tire removed/mounted for no reason.


I know, right? Who would want an actual, safe, new valve stem in their wheel assembly at a cost of $12 to $15 or even done for free at most shops? Instead, let's put our own personal and the safety of others at risk.
+1-you don't have to take a tire completely off to replace a valve stem-just has to have the bead broken down right by the stem, no rebalance necessary!


In that case I'll bring the car in to the shop that put the tires on and see what they can do. I don't mind any cost for valve replacement, or whatever. I'm just not ready right now to replace the set (or even a pair) because of the bead damage to one of the tires.

If they can get through the winter I'll be satisfied. There's still plenty of good tread left for this season, but by Spring they'll be close enough to the wear mark that they can go to the recyclers with no loss.

Even though they have good traction (in the wet stuff, snow and ice is rated well but I have yet to test it myself), Goodyear's lower priced offerings don't seem to hold up long (this is based strictly on the tread wear I've observed since the tires were bought).

I've heard good things about their higher end offerings, but as those are out of my price range, this will be my last set of Goodyears (unless another car I buy happens to come with a set, like this one did).

Hopefully they make it through the winter and I don't have to start shopping around now.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: Spyder7
So there's a significant chance the new tires will be have the bead stripped when I have them installed, and I have no way of ensuring the bead is damaged when they're put on? Or am I missing something (I hope I am)?

-Spyder


Yup. You missed the part about this being a rare occurence.
 
valve stem core can have dirt in it.
Remove the core and replace first.
If core looks good...
Then replace valve stem and clean the bead of the rim.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top