10W30 or SAE 30

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Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
Sorry gfh77665, I was not trying to make a Federal case out of it,


It's "COOL" .... LOL!
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Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
"Straight 30 when possible ..."

I disagree, strongly. You folks in the southern third of the U.S. need to take into account most of the people on this forum live in a much cooler climate and recommendations need to reflect that. Few people here mow for 4+ hours at a time in 100+F heat.


This is true. We have little knowledge of mowing when it's cool/cold (aside from mowing in January), flogging an engine (whatever THAT is), storing away our equipment (unless storage is "until next Saturday"), and I've never even seen a snowblower.
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Originally Posted By: bigmike
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
"Straight 30 when possible ..."

I disagree, strongly. You folks in the southern third of the U.S. need to take into account most of the people on this forum live in a much cooler climate and recommendations need to reflect that. Few people here mow for 4+ hours at a time in 100+F heat.


This is true. We have little knowledge of mowing when it's cool/cold (aside from mowing in January), flogging an engine (whatever THAT is), storing away our equipment (unless storage is "until next Saturday"), and I've never even seen a snowblower.
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your not missing anything mike.
 
Originally Posted By: Spazdog
mark pruett said:
I had some concerns about using 10W30 in my splash lubricated B&S motors and my Chinese OHV Honda clone. After all, it doesn't have a real oil pump. (I don't know know what kind of lubrication the Clone has. I am startled at how durable it has proven itself I really expected it to die after a year or so of service)


Here's how my thinking went:

"So if it's splash lubricated, lower viscosity probably won't be a problem- it'll splash easier. About all I have to worry about is the right operating viscosity and oil burning/volatility. I figure a synthetic will minimize those two."
I wouldn't be averse to running 5w-30 if it was a good synthetic, although I'm not so sure that the lower viscosity would make much difference at my normal mower start temps (70-100 F).
 
A mower isn't like a vehicle...I mean the lower the temperature grass slows down and eventually becomes dormant. Sooo I HIGHLY doubt someone is going to mow the lawn at 10? 20? 30 degrees. WHAT is there is to mow?

Here in Hawaii 60F grass growth slows down in the winter ... I would think more so in colder temperature.
 
I doubt anyone is cutting grass when the temps fall into the 30s or less. I normally cut grass every four days from May to mid September. Thereafter, maybe one or two cuts every ten days or so and that's it for the season. Then the snow thrower comes out.
 
"I HIGHLY doubt someone is going to mow the lawn at 10? 20? 30 degrees. WHAT is there is to mow?"

You don't mow at those temps ... but you may use the tractor for hauling wood, hauling away fall leaves and other yard debris. Fall = cool temps.

I often use a push mower with a bagger to bag leaves during fall clean-up and it is often below freezing on fall mornings when I begin work.

Then there are generators and water pumps that you might have to start cold, the wood splitter is often used in the spring and the fall when the bugs are sleeping and not much of a nuisance.

And I didn't even have to mention snow blowers.
 
I use my 2544 all year long. I actually use it a lot in the winter and fall because there isnt much else to do so i ride my boy around the trails with it. I also haul fire wood for me and the neighbor. It surely dont get used nearly as much in the winter but i use it when the temps are in the 20s and above. Someone did a study where they measured head temps with different oils and the outcome was that the temp was decreased when using xw30, 30, or 5w40 instead of 15w40. Maybe you can dig that up somewhere. Im thinking it may even have been a guy on here that did the experiment. I have settled on 5w40 which i feel like splits the difference between good cold start viscosity and good high temp protection.
 
MI Roger, how much is that stuff?

I think any true PAO/Ester synthetic oil could pass for both a straight weight and a comparable multi viscosity oil ... they simply aren't labeled as such.
 
Bror,

I saw the stuff at my local John Deere dealer for $6.00 per quart. The similar marketed Amsoil ASE list price is $7.45 plus shipping....much cheaper I imagine under their different buying plans.

I have a request in to them (Exmark) for the oil specifications and will follow up IF they oblige.
 
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
MI Roger, how much is that stuff?


No idea, I ran across the web site by accident. I did check to see if there was anyone in my local area that sold it. Closest place to me is a huge commercial lawn & garden equipment dealer 20 miles away. I figure if they carry this oil it must be at least OK and not total junk.
 
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Ok, I'm running a Briggs sprint 40 that says "30", a small chinese OHV genset that says 10w30, I run the Jeep 6 on semisynth 10w40 and the marine v8 on Delvac MX 15w40.
Thinking of running the genset and mower on the 10w40 semisynth in Sweden, 10-25 degrees C.
What do you think? I run quite short oci on all equipment.
 
With a 100 CST of 10.97 and a severely hydrotreated paraffinic base oil, why bother at the price point. Rotella T5 10W30 is ~$11.50/gal. Though the blue color might go nicely with blue grease.
 
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