Advice On My First Bike?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Went to a Kawasaki/Suzuki dealer today. I was disappointed to find my toes can barely touch the ground on the KLR (32"inseam). 'Fraid it might be scary in a crosswind.

The GS500F felt great. I also saw and sat on a Vulcan 500 (wonder why they aren't advertised on the 'saki web site? It was good as well. The Suzuki TU250 and GZ250 felt good as well. The 250's would probably be plenty of bike for me, if it wasn't for the interstate driving.

Does the fairing on the GS help a lot in the rain?
Thanks for all your replies!
 
My GS500 is of the earlier, naked variety, so I can't comment on that directly. I have seen them up close and honestly I doubt it would help much. It'll provide a little protection for your legs, and the windshield might keep some of it off your torso, but in any real rain you're going to get wet. At most it'll help with spray from other cars when it's wet but not raining.

jeff
 
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
Went to a Kawasaki/Suzuki dealer today. I was disappointed to find my toes can barely touch the ground on the KLR (32"inseam). 'Fraid it might be scary in a crosswind.

The GS500F felt great. I also saw and sat on a Vulcan 500 (wonder why they aren't advertised on the 'saki web site? It was good as well. The Suzuki TU250 and GZ250 felt good as well. The 250's would probably be plenty of bike for me, if it wasn't for the interstate driving.

Does the fairing on the GS help a lot in the rain?
Thanks for all your replies!


I assume that was a new KLR? If so, you'd be even more challenged on anything older than an '07. They were 1.5" taller at the seat than the revised newer models. They do have ways of lowering the bike however. They use a longer shock linkage in the rear to lower the back and the fork can also be lowered. Just something to think about.

As far as cross winds go, don't sweat that. Sure, the KLR will sway a bit if hit by hard winds from the side but it will continue to track straight ahead. I've been out in some brisk breezes and other than the normal struggle with high winds, didn't feel at all compromised being on the KLR.
 
Originally Posted By: MrCritical
I also saw and sat on a Vulcan 500 (wonder why they aren't advertised on the 'saki web site?

Kawasaki stopped making the 500 for 2010. It has a carburetor and as such would not have passed the new more stringent emissions requirements. And if Kawasaki were to put a fuel injection in there, the bike would become too expensive to be sold in larger numbers, so they just killed it. Sad. But you can still find many new 2009 ones in dealer showrooms. The problem is, the 2009 is red, which is not my preferred color. If you want black, you have to find a 2008 one.

I am actually looking for a used 500 right now, too.


Quote:

The Suzuki TU250 and GZ250 felt good as well. The 250's would probably be plenty of bike for me, if it wasn't for the interstate driving.

Yup. I've been riding on a GZ250 for the past 2-3 months, and hwy driving it's just not something that this bike can do confidently. It has no pickup past 55-60 mph, and it gets blown around quite a bit because it's so light. But otherwise, it's a nice little bike to learn on, which is why I bought it as I'm new to riding. But now I am ready for something slightly more powerful.
 
I'll add to the recommendation of NOT buying a new bike as your first. Lots of reasons not to: most beginner riders drop their bike a few times during their learning years. Really hate to do that when its brand new and you're making payments. Also, if its your first, you probably really don't know yet what style bike you really enjoy best (sports, cruiser, standard, DP), and if you are "stuck" for a while it may be disappointing after a few months. When you buy brand new, there are significant extra fees that get tacked on by the dealer (freight/shipping, assembly, taxes) that you will never recoup when you trade it in or sell, so you will start off by assuming a fairly hefty financial loss on your bike.

If you are determined to buy new, pick a model that you KNOW you will enjoy. That's the kicker..... if you haven't been riding, it's really hard to know.

Vic
 
+1 on a used bike. I woould add that a 3-4 year old bike with under 10,000 miles would require no major repairs. You can get real bargains on 10 year old bikes but a major repair will easily negate the low price.

KLR, Suzuki and Honda are all fine bikes. Take a long test ride and the decision will be easy.
 
I would suggest you at least look at a Triumph Bonneville. Guaranty you will be able to get your feet on the ground. Easy enough to ride and of size that makes it one to be considered as a first bike. It wont cause you any wet underwear with its power but it will run over a hundred. And it is not bad as a weekend tourer. It still is amazing to me that bikes that will run an twelve second quarter mile are considered entry level bikes. I remember when the CB750 was considered a man's bike and the KZ1000 was a nightmare monster. But then it isn't the 1970's anymore.
 
While the KLR is very good at what it is, it is NOT an interstate cruiser. Yes, it can be done, but it isn't anyone's first choice.

Have you looked at the Kawasaki Versys? That might work for you. I highly recommend the Suzuki V-Strom 650, but it might need lowering links due to the height. The V-Strom is great on both paved and unpaved roads--I have one.

Among cruisers, the Kawasaki Vulcan line, and all the other similar bikes are great. But, they aren't off-pavement bikes.

The TU-250 is a great little bike, but it is little and no highway cruiser.

What position would you like to ride in? I like the feet-underneath position of the V-Strom. Sport bike riders like the feet-behind. Cruiser riders like the rocking chair position with the feet in front. The position makes a big difference.

I agree about buying a used bike, or several sequentially, until you find the bike that puts the biggest smile on your face.
 
I was in the bike biz for many years. Most people were sorry that their first bike was too small and regretted buying a little bike but many were stuck with it due to finances. How old are you? What is your physical size? Will you be taking a passenger with you? How many miles a year will you ride? What is your price range? When you narrow it down a little more,Google some road tests and take whatever the seller says with a grain of salt. I personally would not consider anything smaller than a 650. Imagine yourself on the highway,perhaps with a passenger,bucking a headwind while going uphill surrounded by traffic running 85 mph to keep from being flattened by an 18 wheeler on some small underpowered beginner bike. Remember,little does not mean SAFER! When I want to ride something "little" around town I take my Triumph 900 Scrambler and I have to wring it out a little to keep up with high speed traffic. Do you know how to ride? Have you taken a course?
 
Kaw.Versys 650,Suzuki 650 twin (either model),Yamaha FZ,Triumph Bonneville or Harley Sportster would all be cool choices. If you like cruisers the Kaw.900 seems like a great value...
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: hal2626
I was in the bike biz for many years. Most people were sorry that their first bike was too small and regretted buying a little bike but many were stuck with it due to finances.

Which is exactly why SMALL USED is so recommended for beginners. They are cheap, and shouldn't put a person into HOCK just to learn how to ride. About 4 years ago I bought a Kaw 125cc eliminator for about $1300, then got a Honda 600cc Shadow later on for just $3000.

If you're new, you don't want to practice dropping your bike when its brand new. Period. Learn to ride first, then get the bigger bike.

Vic
 
Get a 3-4 year old bike with less than 10k on the odometer.

I know of guys that are getting up to 100k miles on the SV650 with just regular maintenance and I would imagine that most modern watercooled twins are capable of similar longevity.
 
My best advice would be to find a bike for about $3,000. Most bikes built in the late 90's and 2000,s will be as reliable as they need to be. You can ride for a few years, and probably sell it for what you paid. Buy something that isn't going to ruin your month if something happens like a parking lot fall.
 
Originally Posted By: hal2626
I was in the bike biz for many years. Most people were sorry that their first bike was too small and regretted buying a little bike but many were stuck with it due to finances... I personally would not consider anything smaller than a 650. Imagine yourself on the highway,perhaps with a passenger,bucking a headwind while going uphill surrounded by traffic running 85 mph to keep from being flattened by an 18 wheeler on some small underpowered beginner bike...


How many years ago was this?

The original ZX600A Ninja was as quick as the inline 6 cylinder Honda CBX and had a higher top speed. That was 25 years ago. Current 600s are way more powerful and have more than ample power for two up riding uphill into a headwind. For that matter, so does an EX500.
(in fact, in 1987 when the EX500 was introduced one magazine comapared it to the original CB750K in size and speed)
My GSF400 Bandit never had any problems at freeway speed. Granted you are at 7000rpm at an indicated 70 mph, but you still have another 7000 rpm to go before you reach redline.

I personally know a guy that rode his EL250 Eliminator from Dallas area to Nebraska and came back with his girlfriend.I don't envy that trip on that small of a motorcycle. but his bike had plenty to do the distance at freeway speed. (two up one way)

Now if you are talking about bikes like the CB250 Nighthawk, 250 Virago GZ250, or Shadow VLX, I'll agree with you. (Don't know why the Shadow 500 could effortlessly cruise on the freeway but Honda had to screw up the 600cc version with a 4 speed)
 
Last edited:
You are right..600cc is enough. I did not realize that he was considering a four cylinder machine. I personally prefer a bike that will EASILY maintain 80 mph,two up. When I was a broke kid I rode a Honda 160 20K in one year because it was all I could afford and I did not know any better anyway!
 
Last edited:
I passed the safety course last weekend, got my license this week.

There are such good deals on the new bikes I'm interested in, it's hard to justify a late model used. Both Suzuki GS500f and Kawasaki Vulcan 500 under $4000 OTD (without taxes) brand new. I did see 2 '09 Ninja 250's with less than 1k miles for under $3400. Some say you can ride that bike on the interstate, no prob, others say no.

Anyway, I should be able to purchase within a week. I also like the Suzuki S40 Boulevard. Any truth to what I read that you have to take the engine off to adjust the valves properly?

Which brings me to my last question. Some people say adjust the valves like clockwork as recommended, others say they never have. Some dealers include it in their first or second recommended maintenances and some don't. On some of the bikes it looks like something I could to myself with the manual, others like the Ninja, no way.

PS-I'm 52, 5'11, 199lbs. In pretty good shape except for a serious back surgery 5 years ago. I hope to ride daily weather permitting (Louisiana) and make a handful of trips over 500 miles a year (leisurely). Thanks for all the advice.
 
Last edited:
Congrats on completing the MSF course.

You have obviously spotted the economic positives of buying used...... and probably don't even realize all of the savings. For a new bike, the asking price is not the purchase price, 'cause after negotiating the asking price then they tack on dealer charges (freight & delivery, assembly), taxes, and misc charges for title transfers. They'll also put heavy pressure on you to buy extended warranty packages and gap coverage for your insurance. They'll convince you to go ahead and add some accessories at purchase so you can ride out with everything you want, and add it to the loan. You will get hit up with so many extra charges that the final price can easily go up another 25% - 50% of what you thought you were going to pay.

But to your question. DEPENDING ON THE BIKE, you will get a lot of different opinions on how necessary valve adjustments are. I've had service technicians give me different advice on this topic, with a lot of them actually recommending that you don't really have to follow the scheduled maintenance chart. It really seems (IMO) to be model specific, so it would be easier for you to pick a specific bike and ask about it. I've had a couple different Suzukis but none of them were cruisers, maybe someone else will chime in on the S40 Boulevard. I can say that I suspect what you heard is wrong, but if you check enough internet sources I'm sure you will find a DIY on it.

Vic
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

Finklejag
My local dealer is back to 2019 inventory levels
Replies
15
Views
2K
stu72762
K
Searching for a classic/vintage bike. Help me pick one
2 3 4
Replies
68
Views
5K
SR5
1
Bought my first bike tonight!
2
Replies
37
Views
3K
14Accent
Graham Piccinini
2003 Lexus GS300
2
Replies
39
Views
3K
Graham Piccinini
JHZR2
Bikes for comfortable recreational riding?
2 3
Replies
50
Views
6K
MRC01
Back
Top