Oops. 25k miles on oil on Mazda RX-8.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Anies
Originally Posted By: HK_Ace
Oh no, I hope she was at least using a good synthetic. Check the dipstick and oil-filler cap for varnish. You may use an oil that does a good job of cleaning the engine- one of the Pennzoils- like the Ultra. This would be a very interesting UOA to Blackstone...I'd do that too.


You never want to use a synthetic with a rotary engine from Mazda. It actually has to burn oil so it can lubricate the Apex seals in the engine. Synthetic is more resistance to burn off and there for causes a very high failure rate in their motors. Conventional or Mazda's specifically engineered blend can be used.


IIRC, Mazda itself backed away from the "no syn" directive a good number of years ago. I doubt that they'd be selling this if they hadn't. Note the language on the can (FULL synthetic for the Renesis (rotary) engine).
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
How about this stuff?
2uo6iw4.jpg
 
Lol AJ you're going to regret that. Because all someone has to do is take a picture of his wife/girlfriend, in my case, my mom (Single and happy for it right now =P) after telling them to do it for $20 lol. I'm honest so I'm just telling you that.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Audi Junkie
I'll PayPal $20 to the next member to post a pic of a woman checking her oil at a gas station.


Nick will be Pm'ing you his Paypal account name for that $20 AJ!
crackmeup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Nick R
But here you go anyway

cr072k10woman_checking_oil.jpg




PS This was a google pic.


impossible. thats photoshopped.
 
I like the way she's lifting her pinky finger while checking the oil, sort of like she's taking a sip from a cup of tea or something
grin2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: jeepman
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
If you pop your hood for a level check at a fillup: 1) the oil has not drained back completely, 2) the dipstick reading will be "suspect" due to wipe and re-insert, 3) you may be off to work or a function where you dont want your clothes at risk of becoming "soiled". I check my oil Saturday morning after the car sat all night and I dont have to wipe and re-insert. Gives a good solid reading with cold oil and cold engine that's completely drained back. (Caution: The Cold check method does not work with flakey new Subaru dipsticks - they require a wipe and slow re-insert)


The above listed expert opinion brought to you by someone who blows an engine every three months and blames the motor oil. - AG: A bit of an exaggeration, but since I've been a forum regular and develped a new "oil strategy", Ive had no problems with MY toyota engine (after avoiding ILSAC GF-4).

1.) If the oil is hot, it drains back to the pan pretty quickly so I doubt the reading is that far off. AG: True on the drainback time, but there is more involved in getting a good reading than drainback to full sump volume.

2.) If wiping a tenth of an ounce off the dipstick due to re-insert causes the car to be low on oil, then it was way low before I pulled the stick. AG: Who postulated this silliness?

3.) Fill your car up when it hit's a quarter of a tank, and then you will be doing it at a time of your choosing, not when you are late to a dinner party dressed in a tuxedo. AG: This comment is illogical

I'm a little old school so I like the pop the hood at fillup method as well; can spot check everything in the time it takes to fill the tank. AG: My first real Job; Pump Jockey ca. 1974.

But the trip-odometer method sounds just as good. Anything would be an improvement in this situation.


Simply put, the major issue with hot or cold checks with the wipe and reinsert method is: You pull oil up the dip tube and its hard to get a clean read. Oil siphoned and clinging to the tube >above sump level< may give a false high read. Newer Subarus must be wiped and reinseted due to: the Dip tube being submerged under oil and oil level gets pumped up the tube and is retained above the stick twist giving a false HIGH reading. Ive only been thinking about dip reading after getting thi scar and having difficulties with repeatability on sequential readings. OTW I would not have given thi s subject any though.
 
I like to check cold, and leave some room for expansion when hot. Somewhere in the middle of the d/s is good. I'm pretty sure 1/2q is the optimal amount to add, considering the pitb factor to do the act, plus storing fractions of quart.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Simply put, the major issue with hot or cold checks with the wipe and reinsert method is: You pull oil up the dip tube and its hard to get a clean read. Oil siphoned and clinging to the tube >above sump level< may give a false high read. Newer Subarus must be wiped and reinseted due to: the Dip tube being submerged under oil and oil level gets pumped up the tube and is retained above the stick twist giving a false HIGH reading. Ive only been thinking about dip reading after getting thi scar and having difficulties with repeatability on sequential readings. OTW I would not have given thi s subject any though.
The solution might be to get the oil up to operating temperature, stop, pull the dipstick and wait 5-10 minutes for the dipstick hose to drain before checking.
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: jeepman
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
If you pop your hood for a level check at a fillup: 1) the oil has not drained back completely, 2) the dipstick reading will be "suspect" due to wipe and re-insert, 3) you may be off to work or a function where you dont want your clothes at risk of becoming "soiled". I check my oil Saturday morning after the car sat all night and I dont have to wipe and re-insert. Gives a good solid reading with cold oil and cold engine that's completely drained back. (Caution: The Cold check method does not work with flakey new Subaru dipsticks - they require a wipe and slow re-insert)


The above listed expert opinion brought to you by someone who blows an engine every three months and blames the motor oil. - AG: A bit of an exaggeration, but since I've been a forum regular and develped a new "oil strategy", Ive had no problems with MY toyota engine (after avoiding ILSAC GF-4).

1.) If the oil is hot, it drains back to the pan pretty quickly so I doubt the reading is that far off. AG: True on the drainback time, but there is more involved in getting a good reading than drainback to full sump volume.

2.) If wiping a tenth of an ounce off the dipstick due to re-insert causes the car to be low on oil, then it was way low before I pulled the stick. AG: Who postulated this silliness?

3.) Fill your car up when it hit's a quarter of a tank, and then you will be doing it at a time of your choosing, not when you are late to a dinner party dressed in a tuxedo. AG: This comment is illogical

I'm a little old school so I like the pop the hood at fillup method as well; can spot check everything in the time it takes to fill the tank. AG: My first real Job; Pump Jockey ca. 1974.

But the trip-odometer method sounds just as good. Anything would be an improvement in this situation.


Simply put, the major issue with hot or cold checks with the wipe and reinsert method is: You pull oil up the dip tube and its hard to get a clean read. Oil siphoned and clinging to the tube >above sump level< may give a false high read. Newer Subarus must be wiped and reinseted due to: the Dip tube being submerged under oil and oil level gets pumped up the tube and is retained above the stick twist giving a false HIGH reading. Ive only been thinking about dip reading after getting thi scar and having difficulties with repeatability on sequential readings. OTW I would not have given thi s subject any though.


You are over-thinking this arco. Its really not as complicated as you make it sound.

-Spyder
 
Last edited:
Sorry it's taken me so long to get back to this thread. I told my sister if she brought her car over to my place I'll change the oil for her. I'll be cutting the oil filter open to show you guys as I know there is some interest there. It's a Bosch oil filter from Auto Zone btw. This should be interesting!
 
With the amount of top up its gotten, the oil shouldn't have fared too badly - at least, not as badly if no top up were used. I'm more curious to see pics on what the filter looks like after 25k on it.

-Spyder
 
Originally Posted By: rationull
Any chance a UOA is in the cards?


Unfortunately no as both she and I are short enough on cash right now that even an extra $25.00 is too much. I will definitely be opening up that filter though.

One thing I know for sure is the oil is LOADED with gas. The car was so flooded that when I did finally get it running it let out a cloud of smoke large enough to cover half a block. Not only that but even when I was cranking it over smoke was billowing out of the tailpipes. Did I mention I hate rotary engines?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top