Coolant filter- an experiment

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That looks like a good option too. According to my local NAPA, the closest store with one of the other strainers in stock is in Salt Lake City. At that point, I'll just make the hour drive to TSC.

I wonder if those diesel filters come in 5/8" to use full-flow in the heater hoses?
 
I got it from Home Hardware (Canadian store) and it just says made in China.

Go to Tractor Supply Co. or some store similar and ask for a diesel screen filter with the hose size it has to fit.

They are common on tractors and such.

You can get the see through ones but I don't know what temperature they can withstand because they are plastic.
 
Ok. I'll be about 15 mins away from the closest Tractor Supply next Friday, so I'll go in and either pick up one of those, or the other black plastic ones posted above. I'll let you guys know how it goes.
 
That looks like an excellent option, StevieC. Let's hope somebody can come up with a common brand and part number for that type of filter.
 
I'm going to stop by the Home-Hardware on my way home today and ask the guy if he has a listing in his computer... The Home-Hardware is expanding here and I think it's because the ownership is going to change so I want to know for my own in case its no longer available anymore.

I will post here if I find out.

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Ok here is the filter# D139225 as I saw on my bill from the place I got it. It seems to be a generic filter that lots of people carry and I found this cross reference list of manufacturers that make the same sort of filter.

http://downloads.pfgaustralia.com.au/intranetwebcache/Parts/QuickRef/MC/Filter%20Referrence%20Guide%20%280808%29.pdf

So this should help you find it.

I will still check with the place to see if they know the brand of mine or it's just a China Express.

Cheers,

Steve
 
Hmmm... according to the cross reference I'm checking, a baldwin BF836 is the same as the Hastings GF2 that I'm already using.

I really like that fine metal screen in the one you cut open- I think that looks ideal for what I'm doing. I guess we have no way of knowing if my Hastings GF2 or even the Baldwin BF836 uses the same sort of filter screen unless/until we cut one open.
 
Well done and very enlightening, thanks. Very curious to see what the metal filter screen looks like after some use.
 
Originally Posted By: onion
Hmmm... according to the cross reference I'm checking, a baldwin BF836 is the same as the Hastings GF2 that I'm already using.

I really like that fine metal screen in the one you cut open- I think that looks ideal for what I'm doing. I guess we have no way of knowing if my Hastings GF2 or even the Baldwin BF836 uses the same sort of filter screen unless/until we cut one open.


That is why I sacrificed one... Please post pictures if you do the same.
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Sorry I can't get you the exact manufacturer other than it's made in China.
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I intend to get one of the plastic ones with the metal screen I posted above and put it in my heater-core line. I will keep y'all posted.

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Stevie - I agree that the plastic ones you originally posted are definitely better for a heater line install, as they can be cleaned out easily enough.
 
Originally Posted By: rslifkin
Stevie - I agree that the plastic ones you originally posted are definitely better for a heater line install, as they can be cleaned out easily enough.
And monitored like a good BITOGER would.
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Of course. I figure for the first month or so at least, it will need checking at least once a week. Once it gets cold, I'll know it's loading up when the heat starts getting weak, although by then it should be staying cleaner.
 
Originally Posted By: StevieC
Baldwin BF840 or BF836 is the real one of this knock off I'm using.

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Like I said earlier, the BF836 crosses to the same Hastings GF2 that I'm using right now. But I forgot to mention that the BF840 crosses to a Hastings GF10. Not sure what the difference is.

I suspect that the GF2/BF836 may use paper filter media, whereas the GF10/BF840 just might use that neat wire cloth like your D139225 (which, incidentally, is a good part number for Case). I'll probably cut this GF2 open before I decide on a replacement... that wire cloth is just too neat to pass up.

There are actually THREE Case dealerships here in town- I just might go there for a D139225, since that's a known quantity.
 
I think with the cooling systems flow requirements I would go with the wire-cloth instead of the paper media. Also given what the paper media seems to do when it is in contact with hot coolant over time.

Just my $0.02

Steve
 
So the Hastings GF2 has been installed in my cooling system for about 3 weeks. I had planned on leaving it for maybe a couple of months, but became bored and impatient today... decided to cut it open and have a look.

The replacement filter I bought is a Hastings GF10, which directly crosses from that neat wire-mesh that StevieC was kind enough to cut open. But upon closer inspection, I suspect that this is the same filter as the GF2... just a different sticker. The GF2 comes with some hoses and clamps; the GF10 doesn't. Otherwise I see no difference- the Hastings numbers are only on an attached sticker. There's a "made in China" and some assorted numbers here and there printed on the case- these are mostly (but not entirely) identical between the two. Time, a grinder, and a camera will eventually confirm or deny. But I'm reasonably sure that this GF10 is just another cheap paper filter... which will work for this experiment, but it's not really ideal. Next time I'll likely go for the tractor inline filter that StevieC cut open- it's readily available at any Case dealership under the same part number. Kinda expensive at around $14... but nothing's too good for my 1994 Corsica.
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I've been a bit lax in recording mileage for this experiment. Current mileage today is 179862. This filter has been in place for approximately 650 miles and 3 weeks. These metal-can filters are sturdily built. I wasn't at the shop today, so didn't bother to pressure test it... but I've no doubt that they're more than adequate for the 15psi cooling system. Maybe I'll pressure one up next time if I'm at the shop, where I'll have access to air pressure.

Before cutting it open, I tried blowing through it. Unlike the plastic Fram filter, which flowed fairly freely after being installed for two weeks, this one was pretty much clogged. But it has caught so much crud over the past three weeks that it MUST have been flowing a fair amount of coolant at least for a while.

Anyway, here's photographic documentation of my dissection of the GF2 filter. You'll notice in the first picture that the paper is hardly swelled/distorted at all. The glue and paper held together just fine- it was in no danger of coming apart:

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So I broke the filter loose from the can. Notice the brown/black sludge that poured out of the canister. This isn't a thin, watery fluid. It's close to the consistency of chocolate syrup:

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And I cut the glued ends off the filter media to spread it out. This time there was no need to scrape my utility knife along the paper to show off how much crud the filter caught. It's pretty obvious. And this is a system that has been repeatedly flushed and looked fairly clean.

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I'll run this GF10 for a few weeks and then probably replace it with a Case inline fuel filter. These paper filters aren't really ideal IMO, but I already have one (I think), and it will do the job until I get around to buying a mesh filter.
 
Thanks. I did the hassle to put an actual coolant filter on my Ranger. They don't collect much crud so my cooling system is clean. The current filter has been in place for two years, and it will be coming out soon. I will post pics of the paper.

I have a Freestar with a pressurized flow tank. This has given me an idea of modifying the line the way you did. I can check a few filters for crude, and if I find crud I can continue to run them. If the crud disappears soon or I don't find any then I can put the return line back as original.
 
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