Installed oil press & oil temp gauges on Mazda3

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Originally Posted By: stranger706
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Temperature is directly related to rpm + load.

180-205F tells me that Mazda new what they were doing when they speced a 20 Weight.


You're probably right but I went ahead and disobeyed running 10w30 right now. Im anxious to see what 5w20 does to the readings. But I only have 900 miles on this oil! Not sure if I can wait.


When you change to xW20 in the future, please post the oil temperature you're observed. My guess is that 1 weight thinner oil will lower the temperature in the sump by up to 10F with similar driving patterns and ambient temperature.
 
Originally Posted By: glxpassat
What are the oil pressure specs for your engine? Mine are 2 bar or 29 psi at 2000 rpm minimum. My engine runs at a similar rpm to yours and I've often wished I had an oil temp gauge to see how hot it's getting on days like today. My hot idle today was at 20 psi. I'm currently running Pennzoil synthetic 5w50 since I have a manual tranny and let the car idle in gear in stop and go rush hour traffic.


I have no idea what the pressure specs are. 5w20 is recommended with 5w30 OK if 5w20 is not available. I've always heard that Mazda's have high oil pressure. Looks like these cars will do fine in all temps even with a thin 20 weight.
 
Nice job!

Too bad they don't make a sandwich adapter with a 10 x 1mm port so I could keep my OEM OP switch, or I'd get one.
 
The oil is not being cooled on the highway, it IS a coolant.
It is normal for highway oil temps to get hot.
Lots of power is produced by the engine for long periods.
 
I want to install an oil pressure gauge in my Accord quite badly, but unfortunately I can't find a complete DIY for an Accord for an electronic oil pressure gauge. The only thing I can find are DIY's for Civics and if the fittings are the same, I can't find them anywhere around here. I have tried. I guess it doesn't help that I don't understand fitting sizes at all. lol
 
Originally Posted By: river_rat
Nice job!

Too bad they don't make a sandwich adapter with a 10 x 1mm port so I could keep my OEM OP switch, or I'd get one.


You don't have to mess with your oem op switch. The sandwich plate adapter just screws on to your existing oil filter mount, and your oil filter mounts to the new sandwich plate, which houses the new sensors.

See a few posts up for the website. They have sandwich plate adapters for all thread sizes.
 
Originally Posted By: stranger706
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Temperature is directly related to rpm + load.

180-205F tells me that Mazda new what they were doing when they speced a 20 Weight.


You're probably right but I went ahead and disobeyed running 10w30 right now. Im anxious to see what 5w20 does to the readings. But I only have 900 miles on this oil! Not sure if I can wait.


I hope the 10w-30 is not synthetic. That would make the decision to change oil early even more difficult. I would search for oil that's supposed to flow more easily, cold. Like 0w-30 or 5w-20.
 
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Originally Posted By: brandini
I'm not sure if this applies to an 07, but beware of curtain airbags if equipped! And THANKS!


Yes this can be a problem for some models, fortunately my 3 does not have any side or curtain airbags.

Is there something wrong when a BITOGer favors oil gauges over airbags?
 
Originally Posted By: MoparDak05
I want to install an oil pressure gauge in my Accord quite badly, but unfortunately I can't find a complete DIY for an Accord for an electronic oil pressure gauge. The only thing I can find are DIY's for Civics and if the fittings are the same, I can't find them anywhere around here. I have tried. I guess it doesn't help that I don't understand fitting sizes at all. lol


http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/

They have everything you need. Scroll down the main page and on leftside click on oil filter adapters.
 
Another reason to have oil that flows easily at cold start up. When the car is started the engine races some to heat up catalytic converters. That's probably why o/p was 100psi.
 
Originally Posted By: jorton
Another reason to have oil that flows easily at cold start up. When the car is started the engine races some to heat up catalytic converters. That's probably why o/p was 100psi.


Except that the bypass system is supposed to regulate pressure, whether it's startup or not. I don't have a Mazda3, but 100psi sounds a bit high. Someone with specific experience should weigh in on whether the bypass regulator should be checked or whether that's normal for this engine.

My Porsche (in which I ran red cap M1 15W50 down to -5C on very rare occasions) ran about 5bar (about 73psi) oil pressure max in any conditions, including cold start at any RPM with 15W50. The filter bypass system was kicking in to regulate it to that, AFAIK.
 
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Originally Posted By: stranger706


http://www.glowshiftdirect.com/

They have everything you need. Scroll down the main page and on leftside click on oil filter adapters.


Thank you, sir! That seems a lot easier than tapping into the factory oil pressure switch. I'd like to run it up and mount the sending unit on the firewall, which should be pretty easy with that adapter.
 
Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
Originally Posted By: stranger706
Originally Posted By: Gene K
Temperature is directly related to rpm + load.

180-205F tells me that Mazda new what they were doing when they speced a 20 Weight.


You're probably right but I went ahead and disobeyed running 10w30 right now. Im anxious to see what 5w20 does to the readings. But I only have 900 miles on this oil! Not sure if I can wait.


When you change to xW20 in the future, please post the oil temperature you're observed. My guess is that 1 weight thinner oil will lower the temperature in the sump by up to 10F with similar driving patterns and ambient temperature.


If my experience is anything to go by, you won't see any where near a 10F drop in oil temp's, dropping one grade. I agree with the theory, but the effect is subtle.
I've observed no drop in maximum oil temp's (which I only see on the track) in dropping from a 40wt (HTHS 4.0 cP) oil to a 30wt GC (3.5 cP) to a sheared Toyota 0W-20 (est 2.4 cP).
 
Originally Posted By: stranger706
Originally Posted By: river_rat
Nice job!

Too bad they don't make a sandwich adapter with a 10 x 1mm port so I could keep my OEM OP switch, or I'd get one.


You don't have to mess with your oem op switch. The sandwich plate adapter just screws on to your existing oil filter mount, and your oil filter mounts to the new sandwich plate, which houses the new sensors.


Oh yes, duh on my part. Thanks!
 
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