Oil recommendation for 2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES

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Hello,

I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Galant ES 3.0 that has 115k miles on it. It uses very little oil, but does have some sludge build up in the engine (at least when I look through the oil cap reservoir). I acquired this vehicle used about four years ago and have done my best to do OCI from 3000 to 5000 miles.

Lately, through the winter, I was experiencing some cold start issues. Engine knocking (Idaho Winter) I had been using SuperTech 5w30, with a SuperTech filter. After much studying on different sites including this I decided to change oil and filters.

Recently I purchased a PureOne filter and am looking at either Pennzoil HM 10W30 or Castrol 10W30.

Any recommendation would be very appreciated.
 
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Good place to start

Bill
 
Just to give a little more information. I drive this car to and from several appointments. Lots of stop and go. I am not sure if I should switch back to a 5W30 or go with the 10W30. The weather hits the high 80's and 90's.

Does any one have some recommendations?
 
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syn would be a good way to, it would clean out some of that sludge as well as be better during those cold starts, if price is a factor use a syn blend, i prefer wix oil filters and eithe mobil 7500 syn blend ( use in my dakota) or castrol syntec full syn (which i use in the wifes volvo also with a wix filter) this is only my preference and others may disagree with me but wix (and other versions of it such as napa gold)makes a very high quality filter at a good price, as for the oil mobil 7500 is a very good oil and a ton of manufactures use as there factory oil (such as honda) and castrol syntec is what a lot of the factory euro cars use as factory oil (such as Volkswagen) both oils a filter are easy to find and are sold at a reasonable price. jmho
 
Motor oils I recommend are Pennzoil, Quakerstate, Supertech, Castrol, Havoline, Chevron, Mobil 1, Valvoline. Oil filters I recommend are Purolator Classic and PureOne, Wix, Napa Gold, Mobil 1, K&N, AC Delco (classic) Supertech (classic), Proline, Mopar, and Motorcraft.
 
Due to the sludge, I might suggest a Pennzoil oil. And due to the cold start issue, I might suggest trying a synthetic. I also wouldn't recommend a 10W-30 during the winter. So my recommendation would be Pennzoil Platinum (or even Ultra if you want to shell out the money) and a good filter like WIX, NAPA Gold (same as WIX), PureONE, K&N, Mobil 1, etc. You might need to do some shorter OCIs while the Pennzoil is cleaning out some of the sludge. You'll have to check your oil and see how dirty it's getting along the way to determine when to dump it.
 
I don't see the love-affair w/ synthetics. I'm about to go from Mobil 1 0W-40 to Formula Shell 10W-30 in my 2000 Landcruiser b/c I'm not infatuated w/ long OCIs...once you spend $60+ on an oil change at $8/qt. you'll grow tired of the synthetic obsession too. I doubt the dino. oil had anything to do w/ your sludge, as opposed to neglected changes. Just b/c Pennzoil's advert. claims to clean 40% of sludge doesn't equate to results IMO. Just marketing hype (40%?!?! Really?!?!).

I use Purolator PureOne filters...the relief valve PSI is more similar to OEM filters than Wix.
 
Originally Posted By: splacek
once you spend $60+ on an oil change at $8/qt. you'll grow tired of the synthetic obsession too.

But you certainly don't have to pay that much for synthetic! At Walmart 5 quarts of Quaker State full synthetic is $18, Pennzoil Platinum is $20.50, and Mobil 1 is $23.50. Similarly, the various auto chains (e.g. Advance Auto Parts) run oil change specials where you get 5 quarts of a name brand synthetic (e.g. Valvoline SynPower) and a very good filter (e.g. Purolator PureONE) for under $30. As such, no one has to spend $8/quart and $60 on a synthetic oil change.

Originally Posted By: splacek
I doubt the dino. oil had anything to do w/ your sludge

My recommendation on a synthetic wasn't because of the sludge, but rather because of the cold start issue(s). I'm not saying it's caused by dino, but rather to try a synthetic and see if it helps. It might, it might not. But I think many will agree it's worth a try, and a logical one at that.

Originally Posted By: splacek
Just b/c Pennzoil's advert. claims to clean 40% of sludge doesn't equate to results

You are correct, it doesn't. Is Pennzoil significantly better than others at cleaning sludge? I don't know. But the many UOAs and proven good results shouldn't be ignored.

I stand behind my recommendation (which I admit is my opion): Pennzoil Platinum (or Ultra) and a good filter. See how it works, and adjust from there.
 
Everything you say is true...I can't disagree w/ your opinion. I'm just offering mine. My LC takes 7.2 qts., which means I have to buy 8 - the deals typically cover 5, so I have to buy 2 5 qt. jugs, or some solo qts., which, oftentimes, cancels out the deal.

I miss the days of the $12 oil chage in my 4-banger '94 Camry!
 
Originally Posted By: splacek
My LC takes 7.2 qts., which means I have to buy 8 - the deals typically cover 5, so I have to buy 2 5 qt. jugs, or some solo qts., which, oftentimes, cancels out the deal.


Yeah, needing that many quarts certainly makes the deals less of a "good fit" and raises your costs. I'm fortunate in that my Nissan takes exactly 5 quarts and our VUE takes 4.5. So the 5-quart jugs and the 5-quart specials with filter work out great for me. That and running 6,000 miles OCIs, my costs to run name brand synthetics is pretty low. Hence my preference.
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I'm with Barlowc. If our impala didn't have a gasket issue I'd be running a synthetic in it due to it being a pita to jack it up here in the park we live in.
 
hey Galantboy if you have buildup in your engine, I would stay away from the PureOne filter. They are more on the restrictive side and if that buildup starts coming off it might increase the restriction even further. Combined with the thick HM oil would make the flow situation less than ideal IMO. As for oils I would try one with good solvency and dispersency. Not sure what that oil is at the moment, but it's certainly worth investigation. I'd try some MMO, a standard WIX or equivalent and the new GF5 pennzoil to hopefully clean it up.
 
Originally Posted By: ItsuMitsubishi
As for oils I would try one with good solvency and dispersency. Not sure what that oil is at the moment, but it's certainly worth investigation. I'd try some MMO, a standard WIX or equivalent and the new GF5 pennzoil to hopefully clean it up.



I will probably pick up the Penzoil as you reccomend. But, what exactly is MMO. Is that the same as Auto RX?
 
I am using Amsoil 0W-30 in my Galant 2.4 GDI - it has done over 151,000 miles.

OCI has been every 3 months, as I have been doing very short journeys.
 
I've got the same car and engine. I'm running Maxlife 5w30 without a problem. 185k miles and runs like a champ.
 
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