Which oil(s) show the worst UAO's?

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Also what oils have been empirically proven to cause any kind of engine problems. I'm interested in oils that are allowing extra wear within the proper OCI. I just put Supertech diesel oil in my Honda Magna as it appears the diesel oils are actually superior to the car oils as far as wear protection goes. Is this correct? Thanks for any help.
 
Your honda Magna? Isn't that a motorcycle, it should be cause I have one. I don't think you would want to put auto/diesel oil in a motorcycle. With the wet clutch they do not like all the anti-friction additives in auto oils, tends to make the clutch slip.
 
There are numerous people using diesel oil in their motorcycles. There are no friction modifiers in the diesel oil and much of auto oil so the clutches work fine. Try going to the MOOT forum. It's Magna Owner's of Texas, probably the largest Magna forum. The favorite diesel oil in motorcycles has been the Shell Rotella. Do a Google and you may change your mind.
 
I did do a little research, I should have did it before I posted though. I see people are using regular oil for there bikes. What is the deal with the motorcycle specific oil then? I just always ran hondas 10w-40. well you learn something new every day.
 
Originally Posted By: firefighter
What is the deal with the motorcycle specific oil then?


Simply put - a way for Honda and their dealerships to make more money off of you. Many on here (myself included) have been using HDEO's for a while now. Shell's Rotella blends are now certified for JASO-MA (motorcycle cert. just like Honda oil) although it's been successfully used in bikes (with wet clutches) for many years before the certification.

Plus, with the requirements needed for the diesel certifications, you can be assured that you're putting one tough oil in your machine that will not be as affected by RPM's and a shared sump - as compared to a regular oil.

HDEO = Heavy Duty Engine Oil. They are also rated (SM now) for gasoline engines as well, so no worries there.

For me, 3 bux a qt. vs dealership prices - Rotella T 15w40 works fine for me. I've tried many others and keep coming back to it - might as well stay with it. BTW, Delvac and Delo are great HEDO's also - as well as the CI-4 version of SuperTech 15w40.

Back to your original question, Sunrah has tested many oils under extreme conditions. Hopefully he will chime in and give you more input on this one.


Rob
 
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Lots of good info on the boards so stick around as there's lots of threads with some interesting stuff.

Lots of folks think of diesel oil in the same way as diesel fuel which you wouldn't want to put in a gasoline engine...But with the oil it is entirely different...While you can call them diesel oils, most folks around here prefer to refer to them as HDEO's (heavy duty engine oil) because they are also gasoline engine certified, so HDEO is the preferred term because they can be used across the board.
I've used mostly Rotella 15W40 for nearly 19,000 miles in my Bandit 1250...I've also used Delvac with good results..Here's a fellow that's used nothing but Rotella 15W40 for 100,000 miles in his air cooled bandit 1200 and he's on the original engine, clutch, original everything...He hit 100,000 miles on it last year so he probably has quite a bit more on it by now....
http://www.twtex.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43581
 
Warner,
to "cause" engine issues?

wow that is a question that cant really be answered.
why?
because it depends on the owner.
an oil could work just fine in the same motor but the owners "use" of it could cause an issue.

i think if you pulled out an old paper can of pennzoil 10w30 with the parifin base stock and ran it and never let the motor get hot it would sludge up like it did in our '66 F100. had to use a putty knife to cut the sludge off the insides when we tore it down.

there are quite a few oils i do not like because of how fast they break down. but that does not imply they will cause catostrophic failure in the short term.

even the worst HDEO ive tested is better than any 10w40 or 10w30 that ive also tested.

consider just where a lot of the HDEO goes into:
$100,000 - $300,000 JD combinds and tractors (other brands as
well) run at max throttle from before dawn to after dusk. when you eat, thank HDEO.
how many thousands of 18wheelers criss-crossing the country to bring that food and goods to stores? all in $200,000+ rigs. run as many hours as their log books will let them. each day.

the USA functions as a whole because of HDEOs. when your dinner is trusted to HDEO, why not your bike?
 
Thanks for the info. My goal had been to find if there is anyone ever was able to prove that using a particular oil caused damage to their engine. There's so many people claiming this and that I wanted to confirm that nobody has proof or even very good evidence that using a particular oil caused damage to their engine.
 
You mean like sludging and Plaque?


That's probably the Key thing between one oil and another, for some reason motorcycles do not seem to have sludging issues, cars tend to be more supseptible to it.
 
You may find you are giving up a LOT of power by not running the thinnest real synthetic you can get away with instead of conventional HDEO - this in a H-o-H cooled engine ... V-twin A/C cruisers are another issue altogether.
 
actually at the speed GTX turns into water, i would put it into the "bad" group.

what utterly fails me is how Castrol can have such a fantastic product in Syntec 0w30 and a complete waste of money in GTX 20w50 and 10w40. not to mention that their Motorcycle Specific really should be reserved for lawnmowers that are not new.
 
Originally Posted By: sunruh
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what utterly fails me is how Castrol can have such a fantastic product in Syntec 0w30 and a complete waste of money in GTX 20w50 and 10w40. not to mention that their Motorcycle Specific really should be reserved for lawnmowers that are not new.


+1

Castol products for MC are a mess. This 4t stuff is junk IMO - clay filtered Group 1 base stocks. Its what you will find for four dollars for a china mart. Says on the bottle "not for sale in Canada." Beleive its the same garbage as the Quaker State MC oil.

4t_motorcycle375x252.jpg



The Actevo and RS are very good products. Found mostly at motorcycle shops. Actevo goes for about 6 bucks on sale. Made in Italy I think. Litre bottles. They have tottaly different products in other countries. Also have very high-end race-only MC oils. I'll stick with Rotella ...

ActEvoXTRA_375x252.jpg


http://www.castrol.com/castrol/sectiongenericarticle.do?categoryId=9021689&contentId=7040510
 
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You may find you are giving up a LOT of power by not running the thinnest real synthetic you can get away with instead of conventional HDEO - this in a H-o-H cooled engine ... V-twin A/C cruisers are another issue altogether.


Gotta be kidding, right? I mean, assuming we're at operating temperature...the "drag" from an oil in the 10-weight range isn't all that different from the "drag" from an oil in the 50-weight range. Not at operating temps.

Heck, hand-cranking an engine with cold 20-50 doesn't feel any different to me than hand-cranking an engine with cold 0w-20 in it.

There just isn't that much viscous drag at operating temps, to say you're giving up a LOT of power....I don't think so. What are you suggesting...1% difference? That's hard for me to imagine. BUT, I'm not an expert, just a tinkerer.
 
There were guys gaining a few HP on the dyno running 0 or 10 weight oils back when I was racing. They were only concerned with the engine lasting a weekend.

My engine builder swore that he saw significant cylinder scuffing in race bikes that ran M1. He liked some off brand blend that had a lot of molybdenum.

I ran golden spectro or M1, changed every 1k. I never did a UOA on it, but at every teardown everything looked like new. Teardowns were typically every 10k or so, or whenever the valves and pistons met due to a missed shift. My fleet at the time were Honda CBR600F3's

One thing I will say is that the spectro engines when pulled apart were slippery and oily. You could not hold a shim or bucket in your hand. The M1 engines were almost dry to the touch internally.

After assembling an engine I would prime the system using my drill to spin the pump befor I put the clutch basket in. There was quite a difference in the load on the drill to pump different weight oils.

The heavier oils would drag my drill down to less than half speed as the galleys pressurized.
 
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Yup....That's right Titan...To suggest that one is losing a "LOT" of power is quite an exaggeration....As CBR worm said the guys trying to gain power are using super thin oils that have very light viscosities such as a 10 weight which yields maybe 2 to 3 hp over a 10W40 and only at near peak rpm with a little quicker spinning engine....That's right, maybe 2 or 3 hp gain from a 10 weight...Yet the folks running these weights aren't concerned with the same extent of longevity that 99% of motorcycle owners are concerned with...That's a huge decrease in oil weight yielding a tiny increase in hp and potentially a huge decrease in reliability...
 
Depends how you look at it.

Long term, if the film holds up, the wear comes from friction with no metal to metal contact. The lower the coefficient of friction, the less wear, provided the film is maintained.

So, on a 0W20, compared to a 20W50 6 extra hp for a 1k bike, may mean less wear as well.
 
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