2007 Toyota Tundra 5.7 - Oil recommendations?

[07_Tundra]

I just bought this truck. I can't change the oil myself due to health, so I've been researching on here. (thanks for the info so far!) The OM calls for a 5000 mile OCI, and gives you a choice of 0w20 or 5w20 for the same temp range. I live in VA, so fairly hot in the summer (90's) and about 20's for the coldest in the winter, with a few exeptions of course, so the 5w20 will work just fine.

I drive mostly rural, and around a small town and almost no highway, and I generally baby it. I'm going to stay with the 5k OCI, so probably stick with dino. Remember, this is an all aluminum engine. (fast as h*#L too!)

I only have about 2 choices, and this truck takes 7.5 quarts per change. You even have to drop the skid plate to change the oil!
1st choice is a shop that will use Honda 5w20 oil, and a Toyota filter, and will charge $50. I've read that the Honda 5w20 is good oil, but who makes it? (been using it in my Honda van for 70k miles, hope it's good)
2nd choice. Another shop will let me bring my own, and will charge $20 to do the work. I've narrowed that down to 5w20 PYB or QS at Walmart with a Pure 1 or Toyota filter. (it uses a canister filter. What were they thinking!) By the time I add everything up, not even including my gas running to 2 different places for oil and filter, it is only about 5-6 dollars more expensive at the shop with the Honda oil.
So, since I need this truck to last "forever" is any of these oils preferable for a 5k OCI on this engine? And again, who makes the Honda 5w20? Thanks for any help!

 

[tig1]

I believe XM makes Honda oil. I know Honda uses M1 5-30 in their turbo.

 

[tig1]

07 tundra,
I saw this.

http://wiki.answers.com/Q/Who_makes_honda_motor_oil

 

[07_Tundra]

Yeah, I saw that too, but I've found too many things on wiki that is wrong, and most likely different grade oils may be made by different manufacturers. I was hoping someone knew for sure, because I have searched the UOA section and there is really not any info for my truck.

 

[The Critic]

If you are going to change it every 5,000 miles, it probably won't make a difference what you use.

Also, I hate to rain on your parade but a '07 Tundra is the last truck I would buy if I wanted to keep it forever. It has numerous small issues (since it's a first year build) and this problem is also a ticking time bomb:

http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/04/26/tundra-sequoia-air-injection-induction-pump/

 

[kd5byb]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
is also a ticking time bomb:

http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/04/26/tundra-sequoia-air-injection-induction-pump/


I just spent an hour reading this entire thread and it makes me want to throw up.

I bought a Toyota to AVOID these kinds of issues. If this happens to mine, it will be my last.

thanks,
ben

 

[07_Tundra]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
If you are going to change it every 5,000 miles, it probably won't make a difference what you use.

Also, I hate to rain on your parade but a '07 Tundra is the last truck I would buy if I wanted to keep it forever. It has numerous small issues (since it's a first year build) and this problem is also a ticking time bomb:

http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/04/26/tundra-sequoia-air-injection-induction-pump/


Yeah I know. ALL trucks have small problems, that's why we trade 'em! I can find known problems for any vehicle made. As for the AIP problem, I already knew about it, as I'm a member of a couple of Tundra forums. Your right, it could be a major expense if something would happen to the system. However, it appears that it is almost always water in the pumps when someone has a problem. I never take my truck off road, so I "hope" I won't have the problem. If I do, I'll just fix it, because as of right now, this truck has no equal in the 1/2 ton market for cab size, (I have the Crewmax) and power is better than just about anyone, while getting over 16 mpg just messing around.

 

[07_Tundra]

Originally Posted By: kd5byb
Originally Posted By: The Critic
is also a ticking time bomb:

http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/04/26/tundra-sequoia-air-injection-induction-pump/


I just spent an hour reading this entire thread and it makes me want to throw up.

I bought a Toyota to AVOID these kinds of issues. If this happens to mine, it will be my last.

thanks,
ben


I felt the same way when I first started reading about it, but then I figured that there was no reason to worry about it unless it happens, because I can't do anything to stop it. (except not go off roading) All of the full size trucks have known problems, some of them quite expensive, so I just look at the big picture, and get what suits me best at the time. I traded a 2004 GMC Sierra SLT, loaded with every available option, and at less than 60,000 miles, was nothing but constant problems. In less than 1000 miles, I had to do well over $1000 dollars in repairs. You will always have good and bad with any brand.

But back to my original question: Does anyone know for sure who makes the Honda 5w20 oil?

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: 07_Tundra
I felt the same way when I first started reading about it, but then I figured that there was no reason to worry about it unless it happens, because I can't do anything to stop it. (except not go off roading) All of the full size trucks have known problems, some of them quite expensive, so I just look at the big picture, and get what suits me best at the time. I traded a 2004 GMC Sierra SLT, loaded with every available option, and at less than 60,000 miles, was nothing but constant problems. In less than 1000 miles, I had to do well over $1000 dollars in repairs. You will always have good and bad with any brand.

But back to my original question: Does anyone know for sure who makes the Honda 5w20 oil?

Others have far less expensive problems.

Anyway, Honda 5w-20 is made by exxonmobil. But remember, just because a product is made by the same company does not mean it is the same formulation.

 

[07_Tundra]

GM, Ford, and Dodge all have problems that are just as, or almost as expensive. ie, transmissions, ABS distribution boxes etc. Like I said, they all have problems that could cost a lot to repair.

Thanks. I know the formula could be different, I was just hoping someone had first hand knowledge. Guess thats hard to come by, when they could change the formula for Honda, etc at anytime.

 

[07_Tundra]

Oh, just as an fyi, Toyota STILL has not changed the design of the AIP system as of the 2010 model, and they just gloss over the problem.
They are eventually going to have to admit to a design flaw, and agree to fix at no charge. That is IF they learn to admit they make mistakes like everybody else!

 

[3Toyotas]

They are ( from what i've read anyway ) currently in the redesign process of the AIP system. They have realized it's an issue, and are addressing it.

Not only that, but the AIP now falls under the powertrain warranty which is 5/60,000.

2 07 Tundra's here and 1- 08, and not an issue with it.

 

[3Toyotas]

I've been running Amsoil Full synthetic in my tundra since new, experimenting with all different weights ie; 0w20, 5w30, 0w30, and now it's going to HDD 5w30 next change.
This doesn't really answer your question much, and you may not appreciate it but i prefer the heavier weight 5w30 oil. The engine is MUCH quieter on it, without any hiway mpg loss. City there's a slight loss, but not bad.

Keep in mind, this is synthetic so your results could be different. Plus if you have NO intentions of doing extended intervals, synthetic would be a waste of money. If i was running dino, i would probably run Valvoline 5w20 or a like. QS, PYB, or Honda oil would probably do you just fine as well.

 

[Summerwind]

Either PYB or QS 5w20 should serve you well IMHO