I was thinking about trying a Synthetic 10w30 such as Synpower or Castrol in My Polaris 700 Twin atv. I was thinking it may be closer to the same chararistics of the Polaris 0w40 oil. Anybody running a oil this light in thier quads? I may just buy the Rotella T6 5w40, its a little pricey at $19.50 a gallon, but that would be enough for two changes. Iam running Castrol GTX startup 10w40 in it now, it sounds smooth. I just wonder since those motors run up tight aginst the temperature if ity would like a lighter oil. Of course Iam in Florida so it never sees any cold. Amsoil is out of the question, if I was going to pay that, Id buy the Polaris oil. Whats some input on the 10w30 compared to 0w40.
10w30 in a Polaris atv.
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stick with the rts 5w40,better oil.
I use Rotella 5w40 year round here in Canada. Seeing is you are in Florida, the 15w40 Rotella would be my pick. I don't see much point to a syn if you are in a warm climate as extended drains are not ideal in ATV's.
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Yeah, thinking for yourself is WRONG! Buy what the manufacturer says, better yet, buy THEIR overpriced inferior oil!!!
My Kodiak calls for 5w30 in the winter, and 20w40 in the summer. Common sense tells me a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic will be ideal year round in my neck of the woods with -20C winters and 30+C summers. This guy is in Florida, manual calls for 0w40.....does he really need a 0wXX in Florida?
Of course not.
Check any bike and ATV forum, Shell Rotella dino 15w40 and syn 5w40 are very polular JASO MA approved HDEO oils, and compatible with wet clutchs.
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Yeah, thinking for yourself is WRONG! Buy what the manufacturer says, better yet, buy THEIR overpriced inferior oil!!!
My Kodiak calls for 5w30 in the winter, and 20w40 in the summer. Common sense tells me a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic will be ideal year round in my neck of the woods with -20C winters and 30+C summers. This guy is in Florida, manual calls for 0w40.....does he really need a 0wXX in Florida?
Of course not.
Check any bike and ATV forum, Shell Rotella dino 15w40 and syn 5w40 are very polular JASO MA approved HDEO oils, and compatible with wet clutchs.
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Yeah, thinking for yourself is WRONG! Buy what the manufacturer says, better yet, buy THEIR overpriced inferior oil!!!
My Kodiak calls for 5w30 in the winter, and 20w40 in the summer. Common sense tells me a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic will be ideal year round in my neck of the woods with -20C winters and 30+C summers. This guy is in Florida, manual calls for 0w40.....does he really need a 0wXX in Florida?
Of course not.
Check any bike and ATV forum, Shell Rotella dino 15w40 and syn 5w40 are very polular JASO MA approved HDEO oils, and compatible with wet clutchs.
What does that have to do with running a 10W30 in Florida? The idea of asking a question on an internet forum kind of goes against the "thinking on your own" theory.
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Yeah, thinking for yourself is WRONG! Buy what the manufacturer says, better yet, buy THEIR overpriced inferior oil!!!
My Kodiak calls for 5w30 in the winter, and 20w40 in the summer. Common sense tells me a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic will be ideal year round in my neck of the woods with -20C winters and 30+C summers. This guy is in Florida, manual calls for 0w40.....does he really need a 0wXX in Florida?
Of course not.
Check any bike and ATV forum, Shell Rotella dino 15w40 and syn 5w40 are very polular JASO MA approved HDEO oils, and compatible with wet clutchs.
What does that have to do with running a 10W30 in Florida? The idea of asking a question on an internet forum kind of goes against the "thinking on your own" theory.
Originally Posted By: tmorris1
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Yeah, thinking for yourself is WRONG! Buy what the manufacturer says, better yet, buy THEIR overpriced inferior oil!!!
My Kodiak calls for 5w30 in the winter, and 20w40 in the summer. Common sense tells me a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic will be ideal year round in my neck of the woods with -20C winters and 30+C summers. This guy is in Florida, manual calls for 0w40.....does he really need a 0wXX in Florida?
Of course not.
Check any bike and ATV forum, Shell Rotella dino 15w40 and syn 5w40 are very polular JASO MA approved HDEO oils, and compatible with wet clutchs.
What does that have to do with running a 10W30 in Florida? The idea of asking a question on an internet forum kind of goes against the "thinking on your own" theory.
I already gave my opinion on what I would use. Personally, I wouldn't run a 10w30PCMO, but I don't think it would do any harm in his Polaris if it doesn't have a wet clutch. I just don't see the point running PCMO in a bike when you can get better HDEO for the same price.
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Yeah, thinking for yourself is WRONG! Buy what the manufacturer says, better yet, buy THEIR overpriced inferior oil!!!
My Kodiak calls for 5w30 in the winter, and 20w40 in the summer. Common sense tells me a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic will be ideal year round in my neck of the woods with -20C winters and 30+C summers. This guy is in Florida, manual calls for 0w40.....does he really need a 0wXX in Florida?
Of course not.
Check any bike and ATV forum, Shell Rotella dino 15w40 and syn 5w40 are very polular JASO MA approved HDEO oils, and compatible with wet clutchs.
What does that have to do with running a 10W30 in Florida? The idea of asking a question on an internet forum kind of goes against the "thinking on your own" theory.
I already gave my opinion on what I would use. Personally, I wouldn't run a 10w30PCMO, but I don't think it would do any harm in his Polaris if it doesn't have a wet clutch. I just don't see the point running PCMO in a bike when you can get better HDEO for the same price.
Originally Posted By: dime
i've always used napa 5w30 synthetic,haven't had any issues or problems yet.
edit: i have a scrambler 500 2x4 btw
What is your reason for using that light of an oil? Probably won't wreck the engine, but I don't think it is the best choice.
i've always used napa 5w30 synthetic,haven't had any issues or problems yet.
edit: i have a scrambler 500 2x4 btw
What is your reason for using that light of an oil? Probably won't wreck the engine, but I don't think it is the best choice.
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Yeah, thinking for yourself is WRONG! Buy what the manufacturer says, better yet, buy THEIR overpriced inferior oil!!!
My Kodiak calls for 5w30 in the winter, and 20w40 in the summer. Common sense tells me a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic will be ideal year round in my neck of the woods with -20C winters and 30+C summers. This guy is in Florida, manual calls for 0w40.....does he really need a 0wXX in Florida?
Of course not.
Check any bike and ATV forum, Shell Rotella dino 15w40 and syn 5w40 are very polular JASO MA approved HDEO oils, and compatible with wet clutchs.
Relax. never said not to think for yourself. You are completely mischaracterizing the intent of my post. I don't know what it is about the HDEO crowd....but you are the second one to get all worked up over my opinion. And what did I say? I said to follow the manual as close as is possible in regard to VISCOSITY. Never said to buy the 'house brand' oil.....but even if somebody chose to, they are not buying inferior oil or getting totally ripped off....as you seem to think. I own a Polaris ATV. I will be changing my oil out soon. The manual advises you to use their 2w-50 oil. Common sense tells me I can use a 5w-50 oil as an extremely small difference in the cold start rating won't be significant. I will be using Red Line 5w-50 synthetic oil. But at the same time I'm not going to go 15w-40 or some other way of viscosity. Experimenting or using oils that are way out of manufacturers viscosity range is doing something without a valid reason. Fine, you live in the arctic you might want to adjust the oil....or say you are a goat herder in the Sahara...then yes, perhaps a heavier oil may suffice. But this is just not the case here nor is it warranted.
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Use the viscosity the manual states to use. Follow the specs.
I don't know why a few bucks here and there are a big deal when you are talking the life blood of an angine. Get the best you can afford based on solid opinions....while sticking to what the manual says.
Yeah, thinking for yourself is WRONG! Buy what the manufacturer says, better yet, buy THEIR overpriced inferior oil!!!
My Kodiak calls for 5w30 in the winter, and 20w40 in the summer. Common sense tells me a 0w40 or 5w40 synthetic will be ideal year round in my neck of the woods with -20C winters and 30+C summers. This guy is in Florida, manual calls for 0w40.....does he really need a 0wXX in Florida?
Of course not.
Check any bike and ATV forum, Shell Rotella dino 15w40 and syn 5w40 are very polular JASO MA approved HDEO oils, and compatible with wet clutchs.
Relax. never said not to think for yourself. You are completely mischaracterizing the intent of my post. I don't know what it is about the HDEO crowd....but you are the second one to get all worked up over my opinion. And what did I say? I said to follow the manual as close as is possible in regard to VISCOSITY. Never said to buy the 'house brand' oil.....but even if somebody chose to, they are not buying inferior oil or getting totally ripped off....as you seem to think. I own a Polaris ATV. I will be changing my oil out soon. The manual advises you to use their 2w-50 oil. Common sense tells me I can use a 5w-50 oil as an extremely small difference in the cold start rating won't be significant. I will be using Red Line 5w-50 synthetic oil. But at the same time I'm not going to go 15w-40 or some other way of viscosity. Experimenting or using oils that are way out of manufacturers viscosity range is doing something without a valid reason. Fine, you live in the arctic you might want to adjust the oil....or say you are a goat herder in the Sahara...then yes, perhaps a heavier oil may suffice. But this is just not the case here nor is it warranted.
I think this thread is going down the same road my thread went regarding oil type in an ATV.
Originally Posted By: ryansride2017
I think this thread is going down the same road my thread went regarding oil type in an ATV.
Well, yes....it looks that way. But I trust by expressing my opinion the cause or blame is not placed upon me. I just get real tired of the same type of rudeness that seems to permeate this subject. Anytime I say something such as 'read the manual and stick fairly close to it'....I get treated like an idiot. Using HDEO will certainly work fine. My only suggestion is to stay within certain viscosity parameters. Just an opinion though.
I think this thread is going down the same road my thread went regarding oil type in an ATV.
Well, yes....it looks that way. But I trust by expressing my opinion the cause or blame is not placed upon me. I just get real tired of the same type of rudeness that seems to permeate this subject. Anytime I say something such as 'read the manual and stick fairly close to it'....I get treated like an idiot. Using HDEO will certainly work fine. My only suggestion is to stay within certain viscosity parameters. Just an opinion though.
If a person is looking for an engine oil, it's easy to say go buy expensive synthetic oil or manufacturers brand name oil. That's pretty much what's being said by a couple individuals.
Despite the realization that those people are entitled to their opinion, their advice isn't necessarily the best. Anyone can pay big bucks for oil and have a well lubricated engine. All that takes is money. Lots of money relatively speaking.
The objective is to get as good as, if not better lubrication at a fraction of the cost. When a person is asking for engine oil recommendations, they should be given advice that will provide them with the desired lubrication results at a reasonable cost.
HDEO will provide MORE than adequate lubrication. There is NO need for synthetics or expensive manufacturer brand name oils due to relatively short OCIs on ATV engines.
I've used HDEO in air cooled and liquid cooled ATV engines since the early 80s. Never had a problem. The two air cooled ATVs that I have since sold to people I know are still running strong with NO engine work at all. One machine is a 1984 Suzuk 185cc the other is a 1987 Suzuki LTF4WD 250.
The type/kind of oil is of far less significance than regular oil changes. A person is probably going to be more willing to do oil changes using $15.00 per gallon HDEO vs. $10.00 per quart for M/C brand name or high end synthetics.
Proponents from both groups have offered their advice. It's up to the individual to weigh the information and decide which route they choose to take.
In closing, I'd like to say this, the best oil in the world, be it manufacturer's brand name, synthetic or HDEO, will all be rendered useless if mixed with mud and water, which ATVs often see. If you've had an engine stall in deep water, change the oil a.s.a.p. Immediately if you have oil available. Having a gallon of reasonably priced quality HDEO oil on hand is a lot easier to do and more likely to happen than keeping several quarts of expensive oil on stand-by.
Despite the realization that those people are entitled to their opinion, their advice isn't necessarily the best. Anyone can pay big bucks for oil and have a well lubricated engine. All that takes is money. Lots of money relatively speaking.
The objective is to get as good as, if not better lubrication at a fraction of the cost. When a person is asking for engine oil recommendations, they should be given advice that will provide them with the desired lubrication results at a reasonable cost.
HDEO will provide MORE than adequate lubrication. There is NO need for synthetics or expensive manufacturer brand name oils due to relatively short OCIs on ATV engines.
I've used HDEO in air cooled and liquid cooled ATV engines since the early 80s. Never had a problem. The two air cooled ATVs that I have since sold to people I know are still running strong with NO engine work at all. One machine is a 1984 Suzuk 185cc the other is a 1987 Suzuki LTF4WD 250.
The type/kind of oil is of far less significance than regular oil changes. A person is probably going to be more willing to do oil changes using $15.00 per gallon HDEO vs. $10.00 per quart for M/C brand name or high end synthetics.
Proponents from both groups have offered their advice. It's up to the individual to weigh the information and decide which route they choose to take.
In closing, I'd like to say this, the best oil in the world, be it manufacturer's brand name, synthetic or HDEO, will all be rendered useless if mixed with mud and water, which ATVs often see. If you've had an engine stall in deep water, change the oil a.s.a.p. Immediately if you have oil available. Having a gallon of reasonably priced quality HDEO oil on hand is a lot easier to do and more likely to happen than keeping several quarts of expensive oil on stand-by.
If I am to be included in the 'couple people' category....I didn't say go buy EXPENSIVE synthetic oil or manufacturers BRAND name oil. And as far as 'EASY'? Well, yes....it's pretty easy for me to buy oil based on the manual and my own opinions. HDEO would work fine.....as stated by me MORE than once. The 'never had a problem' scenario however offers no proof of anything other than it worked as a satisfactory lubricant. Probably 99% of the oils out there would have no problem. From my point of view, I like Red Line oils and the quality, honesty, and integrity that they do business. I don't have an issue spending a fraction more money (when you consider the small capacity it's really silly) any big deal to get what I perceive as a highly regarded synthetic oil. Ten or fifteen bucks here and there is not an issue for most people. HDEO is not a preferred oil according to every single ATV maker out there....unless I am mistaken. Not to say that it is a poor choice...it is not. By the same token they don't say to use only synthetics either. And as stated before by me....you don't need to buy the Honda, Kawasaki, Polaris, or whatever brand oil to get great protection. What I DID say was to stick close to the manual in terms of VISCOSITY recomendations. The makers of ATV's have nothing to gain by advising a particular viscosity....it comes from the engineers I presume. Yes, Polaris seems to be the only one that makes a unique 2w-50 oil. That is rather odd and smells of higher profits. But I would say using common sense and going with a 5w-50 or perhaps even 10w-40 would not be a big variance. But 15w-xx or 30 weights would be taking a risk of premature wear based on what the designers advise.
But alas....all my opinion really. Nothing more. The point about mud and immersion is a good one and I agree 100%.
But alas....all my opinion really. Nothing more. The point about mud and immersion is a good one and I agree 100%.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: andrewg
But 15w-xx or 30 weights would be taking a risk of premature wear based on what the designers advise.
But alas....all my opinion really.
Why would a 15w40 in Florida cause premature wear over the recomended 0w40? Both are 40 weight at operating temp?
Why would a 0w be required in Florida?
But 15w-xx or 30 weights would be taking a risk of premature wear based on what the designers advise.
But alas....all my opinion really.
Why would a 15w40 in Florida cause premature wear over the recomended 0w40? Both are 40 weight at operating temp?
Why would a 0w be required in Florida?
Newest update, I am going with castrol Syntec 5w40 with the Advance oil special and using the cross-over and using a car filter(same one for a Honda car) on both Polaris. I also bought a bunch of Castrol GTX startup 10w40, that I am going to try. I just like to be a Rebel. I am not paying those insane prices for Polaris filters and oil, that I feel are not superior. I bought a couple jugs of Shell 5w40 T6 too, I am going to try out, so far no problems, both sound Great. I overheated the 700, Polaris puts their radiators too low, and it didnt knock.
You got to keep the radiator clean which can be a chore on some machines. Their placement seems to be perfect for collecting mud but very difficult to get it out even with a pressure washer. Some mud bakes onto the rad and can be very difficult to remove afterward.
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
But 15w-xx or 30 weights would be taking a risk of premature wear based on what the designers advise.
But alas....all my opinion really.
Why would a 15w40 in Florida cause premature wear over the recomended 0w40? Both are 40 weight at operating temp?
Why would a 0w be required in Florida?
Not all wear occurs at operating temperatures. One big advantage of of a 0w-xx is it's ability to flow quickly at startup....even in Florida. I'm sure the manufacturers have that in mind or they simply wouldn't have recomended it. If startup flow didn't matter then why even use a multi weight at all in the southern U.S.? Common sense.
Originally Posted By: andrewg
But 15w-xx or 30 weights would be taking a risk of premature wear based on what the designers advise.
But alas....all my opinion really.
Why would a 15w40 in Florida cause premature wear over the recomended 0w40? Both are 40 weight at operating temp?
Why would a 0w be required in Florida?
Not all wear occurs at operating temperatures. One big advantage of of a 0w-xx is it's ability to flow quickly at startup....even in Florida. I'm sure the manufacturers have that in mind or they simply wouldn't have recomended it. If startup flow didn't matter then why even use a multi weight at all in the southern U.S.? Common sense.
Originally Posted By: andrewg
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
But 15w-xx or 30 weights would be taking a risk of premature wear based on what the designers advise.
But alas....all my opinion really.
Why would a 15w40 in Florida cause premature wear over the recomended 0w40? Both are 40 weight at operating temp?
Why would a 0w be required in Florida?
Not all wear occurs at operating temperatures. One big advantage of of a 0w-xx is it's ability to flow quickly at startup....even in Florida. I'm sure the manufacturers have that in mind or they simply wouldn't have recomended it. If startup flow didn't matter then why even use a multi weight at all in the southern U.S.? Common sense.
A 0w40 oil here in -20C Canadian winter will be thicker then a 15w40 oil in +30C Florida at start up. That's my problem with the "one oil fits everyone" theory, it doesn't make sense. Ambient temp plays a part even in liquid cooled engines, and can negate the ultra low winter rating of a 0wxx, or increase/lower the operating temp viscosity requirement.
Originally Posted By: Hitzy
Originally Posted By: andrewg
But 15w-xx or 30 weights would be taking a risk of premature wear based on what the designers advise.
But alas....all my opinion really.
Why would a 15w40 in Florida cause premature wear over the recomended 0w40? Both are 40 weight at operating temp?
Why would a 0w be required in Florida?
Not all wear occurs at operating temperatures. One big advantage of of a 0w-xx is it's ability to flow quickly at startup....even in Florida. I'm sure the manufacturers have that in mind or they simply wouldn't have recomended it. If startup flow didn't matter then why even use a multi weight at all in the southern U.S.? Common sense.
A 0w40 oil here in -20C Canadian winter will be thicker then a 15w40 oil in +30C Florida at start up. That's my problem with the "one oil fits everyone" theory, it doesn't make sense. Ambient temp plays a part even in liquid cooled engines, and can negate the ultra low winter rating of a 0wxx, or increase/lower the operating temp viscosity requirement.
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