Kreen

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I just ordered some Kreen from Kano Labs.
Any idea what the best way to use this?
As a pre OC flush only or 1k with 16oz in the crankcase?
16oz for a full OCI?
The car i will use it on is a neglected Toyota 3.0,its not sludged badly yet but looking ugly.
 
Kroil is the best penetrating oil I have ever used. Many MANY shops use it for stubborn and rusted parts.

I would put Kreen in the same category, although I have no experience.

Kano Labs seems to know their stuff.

Keep us informed as to how it goes.
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I've used this on three engines so far. My purpose was to pre-clean before running ARX. It did its job. Even the dipsticks came clean. Even on a Toyota Slugger.

This is an aggressive solvent type cleaner. Though they don't suggest 20 minute run times I don't think I'd run it over 1000 miles. When I drained the pint fortified Kreen Oil it was clearly solvent impregnated. Be careful on how you use it.

Kano is an excellent company offering exceptional products. Of the Fortune 500 companies 497 use Kano products.

I use Aero-Kroil to clean all of my guns and if you need a bolt to be removed, there is nothing better. This is powerful stuff. JB80, PB Blaster and the like, they can't even compare. At least in my experience. I use their Dry Moly for my guns as well. If you want something to work when it's wet and very cold...use their Moly.

As for Kreen, I think it's a great product. Yet, I recognize it's a solvent based formula. As such, exercise caution in it's application. If you want it clean...use it. Then, embark on a more intense and longer lasting program. Like ARX or RVS. ARX is a great low level cleaner. I'm using it right now in two of my vehicles. RVS has remedial properties. I've read the technical data on both. They work.

To my thinking, start with an aggressive cleaning agent (provided your engine isn't a known slugger) like Kreen. I'd say 500-1000 miles. Then go to a more subtle approach like MMO or ARX. If you don't get the results you need work your way to RVS. MMO is more agressive than ARX yet, I don't believe, as extensive. ARX can help with many other vehicle afflictions like main seal leaks. This is not an MMO trait.

If you need remediation, once you complete your cleaning mve on to RVS. I think I'll have one vehicle that needs it.

It's all a matter of how aggressive you want to get. I'd also suggest as better filtration system once you've done all of this work. Go to the bypass filter section on this site to learn more. Maybe you can find a more certain course for your needs.
 
I will flush with kreen and run MMO.I have tried ARX when it was the BITOG flavour of the year(many bottles on many cars) as was not impressed in the least.I am tempted to claim snake oil but that's just my opinion and my $$ that went out the window.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
I will flush with kreen and run MMO.I have tried ARX when it was the BITOG flavour of the year(many bottles on many cars) as was not impressed in the least.I am tempted to claim snake oil but that's just my opinion and my $$ that went out the window.


I will be interested in your results with Kreen since my Dad has a 1979 Pontiac Bonneville with 200,000 miles that is really gunked up, amazingly it just keeps going.
 
Originally Posted By: Tharder
I've used this on three engines so far. My purpose was to pre-clean before running ARX. It did its job. Even the dipsticks came clean. Even on a Toyota Slugger.



Why would you pre-clean before using something that was designed to clean an engine? I'd pick a cleaner and use it, if it doesn't work then try something else. JMO
 
Maybe it has something to do with CA environmental laws,the stuff looks potent on the sheet.

I talked to them yesterday and asked them what they recommend,they claim it can be ran for a full 3k OCI using about 16oz in a 5 qt pan.
To be honest that scares me a little,those really potent solvents running in the oil that long,or will the solvents burn off with a flash point of 75f? Will this pint knock the oil of grade?
 
I ran it for about 300 miles. All of the cars ran smoother and appeared to like the addition. When I drained the oil it was clearly affected by Kreen. It smelled like solvent and it also thinned the oil.

That's not all together bad if you're trying to clean out the engine. I'm sure if we could run something water thin and through the engine (without losing lubrication) that would be ideal. The thinner the product the more "cleaning" ability it would have. Also a thinner product would easily drain everything it picks up to the pan. So, when you drain it, it all comes out.

As for "pre-cleaning" I was uncomfortable running it for 3k miles. I knew it was a solvent and also know that Kano makes excellent products that are thoroughly researched. I would trust them before ANY of the 20 minute engine rinses.

There have been many resports of ARX taking significantly longer to be effective in the cleaning process. If you want as much dirt out as possible prior to your ARX treatment (or MMO) I think Kreen is an excellent option.

I guess it's a matter of confidence. You must choose what you're comfortable with.

Keep in mind Kano is an industrial supplier and if they made anything that negatively affected your seals it would not be on the market. Their market share and their reputation is at stake. They don't take that lightly.

Good luck
 
Yes $50 a gallon and $17 hazardous shipping.
Still when i think what i spent on another internet only product over the last couple of years it seems dirt cheap in comparison if it works well.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
Yes $50 a gallon and $17 hazardous shipping.
Still when i think what i spent on another internet only product over the last couple of years it seems dirt cheap in comparison if it works well.

Whats the mix ratio to say 5qts?
 
They said 16oz for a 5-6 qt pan for 3k OCI and 8oz in 20 gal fuel.
1 Gal it seems will do 4 cars using it in gas and oil so the price isn't to bad at all considering.
I guess a bottle of good fuel treatment and a can of quick flush or qt of MMO would be close to the $17 per car this cost.
 
They must have recently increased the price. I bought a gallon for $45 and they sent me 4 quarts to avoid the hazardous fees. Still had shipping though.

As for the pricing, you're right, in the arena of additives Kreen is inexpensive per ounce. The finest gasoline additive, to my knowledge, is Techron and at 6-7 bucks for 12oz that makes Kreen an even better value. Is it as effective? I don't know. But it's surely worth trying.

This stuff is used in far more expensive equipment than we have.

Hope it does well for you.
 
Kreen came today,the instructions are a little different than the guy told me on the phone.
It can be used as a flush by adding a qt and running it for an hour. Normal dose is 16 oz in the oil and gas every 1k.

I am using it on 2 test mules now.
1) 99 F150 5.4 100k runs well,no sludge but has slight lash adjuster tick and chain tensioner noise at cold start,no piston slap.
Uses zero oil between OCI.6qt capacity used 16 oz

2) 95 Toyota Tercel 1.5 105k no sludge but plenty of varnish,uses approx 1qt every 1,500.Motor quiet and otherwise runs well.
3 qt capacity used 8oz.

I want to try it on these first before i put it into more expensive cars that have some varnish and sludge issues,

I am guessing this green toxic stuff must burn off fairly quickly if they say 16oz ever 1k.
It came in 4 qt cans well packed.Time will tell,i will start another thread with any updates.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Trav
Kreen came today,the instructions are a little different than the guy told me on the phone.
It can be used as a flush by adding a qt and running it for an hour. Normal dose is 16 oz in the oil and gas every 1k.

I am using it on 2 test mules now.
1) 99 F150 5.4 100k runs well,no sludge but has slight lash adjuster tick and chain tensioner noise at cold start,no piston slap.
Uses zero oil between OCI.6qt capacity used 16 oz

2) 95 Toyota Tercel 1.5 105k no sludge but plenty of varnish,uses approx 1qt every 1,500.Motor quiet and otherwise runs well.
3 qt capacity used 8oz.

I want to try it on these first before i put it into more expensive cars that have some varnish and sludge issues,

I am guessing this green toxic stuff must burn off fairly quickly if they say 16oz ever 1k.
It came in 4 qt cans well packed.Time will tell,i will start another thread with any updates.

Can you take any before pics??

does it have a strong chem smell? what's it smell/look like?
 
Meaningful pics are almost impossible with the Expedition and the Toyota without taking the cover off which is a major project especially on the Exp,the Toyota gasket is too expensive just for a look see.I can see down there with a flash light so i can see if there is any improvement on the Toyota which has heavy varnish staining,the Ford is spotless already just pristine shiny metal.

I will try to get a few from the Infiniti and Honda when i do them.

Strong pine and chemical smell (not as strong as Chemtool),it is transparent green in color.Very thin like paint thinner or alcohol,with a hint of slipperiness.

What i am looking for in these engines is a reduction in start up noise on the Ford and varnish removal and reduced oil consumption on the Toyota.
They do recommend it for a overnight piston soak which may be of interest to say Saturn and Cadillac N* owners if it works.

As a side note i did notice as i poured it into the Toyota it instantly dissolved the varnish on anything it touched,whether it continues to do that when diluted in the oil remains to be seen.

I will attempt to be as unbiased as possible and keep the butt dyno out of the equation,if it works well then money well spent if not i have no problem condemning it to the snake oil category.
 
I just thought the coin you dumped you would want some sort of scientific evidence no matter how meaningfulness you may think it is but if gaskets are pricy i see your point.
 
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