Oil Recommendation - 2002 Lexus RX 300

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Wife's car is a 2002 Lexus RX 300 (1MZ-FE), an AWD included at the end of Toyo's sludge years. Has 102,000 miles, and what appears to be either a very slight rear main seal leak (doesn't drip yet) or a slight leak higher up on the engine dripping down. 40% highway, 60% city driving - short drives (1-3 miles) in town.

I've been using 5W-30 dino. per specs., first Castrol GTX and now MC5000 with either PureOne filter or Denso OEM. I'm not particularly loyal to any dino. brands though. (I use M10W-40 in my 2000 Land Cruiser).

Tried to find info. re: high mileage oil, thinking of moving to semi-synthetic? My impression is that the HM oil may help the seals, which are apparently slightly leaking, and the semi-synth. will help w/ the engine operating temps, as this engine seems to run hot (not on the temp. gauge though)...which in turn breaks down oil creating sludge. Don't want to use a heavy oil in an engine prone to sludge though.

What do you think? HM or not? Semi or not? Any help or ideas is appreciated.
 
I'd run Pennzoil Ultra Full Synthetic in there to clean things up first for 5-6k mile OCI's. If the leak doesn't stop after cleaning everything up, you can try MaxLife which is Semi-Synthetic.

You can also give Auto-RX a try and see if it works. It has not worked for many and has worked for some. Depends on how lucky you feel.

Maybe replacing the seal if the above doesn't help is the best route depending on how long you intend to keep the car for.
 
I have a 2001 RX 300 that had a rear main leak at 60K....I had just bought the car!....I chose to have it fixed since I was planning to keep the car for a long time. Had it done at a Toyota dealer for about $700..it is all labor.

I used to run Super 76 a synthetic blend but are now using PP...

I now have over 90K...running well
 
I would run a HDEO like Rotella 15w40 with a 20% MMO mix for the summer. That with help clean things up in that engine. My folks 2001 RX300 looked nasty through the fill hole and I am willing to bet there was some sludge as well. I am running this current oil in there as we speak.

The previous oil was 5w30 with 1 quart of MMO substituted. The oil was very black and there were some nice deposits in the filter.
 
I've read on the lexus forums that Auto-RX can help w/ the RMS leak in certain situations. $700 isn't so bad for replacement, I've read of far worse.

Thanks for the advice - this gives me some info. re: what other people may do, or are actually doing.

MMO strikes fear in my heart. Is it just regular 30W oil? I was leaning towards MaxLife...Pennzoil Ultra Full Synth. has cleaning additives, correct? I was afraid I might see Niagra Falls if I went to a full synth. MC5000 is around 10.6 at operating temps. I could compare full synth. to that I suppose.

HDEO 15W-40 is an idea, again, with the asterisk by the MMO (I don't know what it does exactly?)...Menard's here has Shell Rotella 10W-30, which would allow me to stay within grade. That might be a good idea in order to clean things up a bit.

sw99 - the fill-hole is poorly designed...I'm not sure exactly how oil even passes into the engine...it looks like it seeps in by accident! There is a textured baffle that has hardened granite attached to it. I don't know if people replace it, clean it or just leave it.
 
How's about Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 after the current O'Reilly's/Valvoline Engine Guarantee Program $25 rebate?

You'll be hard pressed to find a better deal anywhere.

Cheers!
 
why does everyone recommend PP/PU for cleaning? is it because they're the only ones who advertise that it can clean? MANY oils have detergents of the level of platinum, if not more..............
 
Originally Posted By: calvinnnnnnnnn
why does everyone recommend PP/PU for cleaning? is it because they're the only ones who advertise that it can clean? MANY oils have detergents of the level of platinum, if not more..............



Good point.
 
I was not aware of Auto-RX at the time otherwise I would have given it a try...my leak was large so I am glad I had it replaced.
Good Luck....the lexus forum is a wealth of info just like BITOG!
 
Phoenix - what Pure One do you use? I recently used PL10241 - but the Denso is larger than that. Do you have the no. of an oversized that works?
 
I have the 1MZFE motor in my 2003 Sienna.

When you look down the oil fill hole....you are looking at the top side of a baffel.....normal for some hard deposits to be there.

I have had my front and rear valve covers off to change the valve cover gaskets and spark plugs.
Front is easy.....rear.....need to remove the cowl between the windshield and hood, and remove the upper intake manifold first.


For 2003, they changed the baffel in the rear valve cover to improve oil drainage back down.....to reduce builup that can restrict or block airflow to the PCV valve.

They also went to a different PCV valve....a metal one that screws into the rear valve cover.

If the flow through the PCV valve is restricted or completely blocked.....you will have a sludge issue in short order.

The PCV valve is located in the rear valve cover.....passenger side.
Hard to see....here is a picture, taken with the plastic cover removed from the top of the motor (if you have that).
For a reference point, you can see the "radiator" cap......I drew an arrow in this picture that points the the metal PCV valve......your 2002 will most likely be nylon/plastic, but in the same location


I also, just for fun, compared my oil filter that is called for on my '96 Ford Windstar to the one for my 2003 Sienna.
I found it to be IDENTICAL, except that it is longer.....and there is plenty of room to fit.

WIX 51516 in place of 51348
Purolator Pure 1 PL20195 in place of PL10241
FRAM XG3600 in place of XG3614

You can look both filters up on the WIXfilters website and they give you all the information......the 51516 gives slightly better filteration numbers than the 51348

This picture shows the 2 different size filters side by side.


I have the WIX on there right now.....the white filter is what was on there when I got the vehicle.

For oil......it is overkill but it kept things SUPER clean in my Windstar......I am running Redline 5W-30.

I replaced the coolant using TOYOTA RED long life.
I plan to use Redline D4 for transmission and power steering fluid.

Timing belt is a every 90K mile job....I chose to have it done at the dealer.....more work than what I want to tackle in the driveway when it is my only vehicle.

I like the RX-300.....I think that it is the best looking SUV on the market.
I also like how the 1MZFE motor runs.
 
Originally Posted By: splacek
Norm - you'd recommend SynPower over MaxLife then I take it?


splacek: MaxLife Syn is a very fine oil and the rebate also applies, AFAIK (or, "As Far As I Can Determine"). I seriously doubt that you will EVER find it at the O'Reilly's sale price of $14.99 per gallon, though.

SynPower over regular MaxLife? Sure, unless you are developing any MAJOR oil seal leaks, which is probably unlikely with a Lexus.

Your O/P indicated slight leaks, though. I've used a 50% MaxLife & 50% SynPower blend in my '91 420SEL for the last 10K miles (I had picked up a 12 QT case of 20W-50 MaxLife @ $0.99/QT after rebate and a couple sixpacks of 20W-50 SynPower at the same price, after rebate) and am using a 6.66K OCI going from 180 to 200K (3 X 6.66 = 20K) and have been very happy with both consumption (about a quart total added between changes) and with my gas mileage: 21 mpg and 20.3 mpg on the last two full tanks of mid-grade on a mostly highway basis. This way exceeds my expectations on a full size sedan old enough to vote!

I picked up the 5W-30 for the SC400 which doesn't show any leaks (knock wood!) and doesn't seem to use any oil at all.

Cheers!
 
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