Kroil

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I wanted to comment on my experience with the Aero-kroil I received from Kano Labs. I was replacing my Wife's "B Pipe" on her 1992 Honda Accord 191,000 miles. It was the original. I sprayed the lubricant and let it set for an hour. This is one amazing penetrating lube. I was able to break the nuts free on the catalytic convertor flange as well as the muffler flange with a breaker bar. In fact the nut mounted on the cat flange had a tight access, I had to use a 1/4 in rachet with a U-joint and a short piece of pipe to break it free. I highly recommend its use. I had previously used liquid wrench and PB blaster in the past. It made the install a breeze. Thanks to aero-kroil.
 
Bringing this old one back. I'm a huge believer in Kano products. Almost all of the fortune 500 companies order some Kano product and there is not ONE advertisement on this stuff.

I use it on my guns (THE best for a Benelli SB II full of mud -that is if you actually waterfowl hunt or slug hunt for deer when it's close to ZERO), I use Kroil on anything that sticks or needs loosening (like bolts or hinges). I store my guns under a coat of their spray on Moly. It IS the oil that creeps. It works better than ANYTHING I've ever tried. I've tried almost all of them...there is NO comparison. 45 years of auto work has taught me plenty. Just try to separate a pitman arm without it!!

Anyway. I used Kano Kreen as a pre-wash for my Auto-RX program and I really think it's special. 2003 Toyota that looks to be building sludge. Took 10 miles to quiet everything down. I'll run it for 3-500 miles and then start Auto-RX. I guess we'll see what a slugger does. I've no concern between the two products.

Put a pint in my son's 1987 Olds Ciera. Dead quiet. It runs better than it ever has. It aint worth a dime, but $6 bucks for Kreen?

I'm running Auto-RX in my 2001 GMC 5.7 Conversion trailering Van right now (after a short cleaning of Amsoil ATF and MMO - 350 miles - I wish I had the Kreen then). Results already look good. Minor leak in the rear main is almost gone 500 miles into the clean phase. Power is exceptional. Oil consumption is now close to nil. Oil is staying stable despite a minor leak in the rear main. Wait! the leak is gone. Never was ANY smoke out of the tailpipe. Pressure at hot idle is down to 22psi. 2,500 rpms - 55-60psi But, I'm certain it will improve with cleaning. Running a PureOne filter to be changed at 1300 miles. I'm going to run the Auto-RX twice on Super-Tech 10w-40 Dino. Per instructions. Rinsing with RTS 5w-40 (have it on the shelf).

After this process it will be Schaeffer oils for everything. I'm cleaning the Transmission too. Schaeffers after the clean phase. Engine oil, trans oil, Diff oil and in my F150 Yamaha outboard too. It was a big order.

I'm moving from Rotella T-6 5w-40 and Amsoil Syn. trans/gear oil to ALL Sheaffer's. Too many good things about their additives and add packages to ignore. I like the Moly/Penetro combination. When you're pulling something heavy it matters.

Here is my order through our sponsor;

#132 - one case (24 pts) - Moly EP Oil treatment - from Lawn mowers, to pressure washers, to 4 stroke Outboards, to vehicle engines.
#274 - one case (30 tubes) - Moly EP Synthetic plus grease.
#131C - one case (24 bottles) - Soy Ultra Gasoline Fuel additive look at the Lube Control LP60. They're more than similar. It's better than Techron. That's tough to believe.
#204sat - one case (12 qts) - All Trans Supreme - fantastic!
#293 75w-90 - one case (12qts) - Supreme Synthetic Plus Gear Lube
#706 - one case (6 1-Gal) - Supreme 700 Syn Plus 2 cycle (gifts - I'll keep some for my Stihl saws and trimmers).
#9000 5w-40 - THREE 5 gal pails - HDEO Synthetic oil - might be the best, OVERALL, oil on the planet.

These guys are good...really good!

T
 
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