ok so i have no power does anyone know if an 1800 watt gas generator will run a kitcken refridgerator??
Will An 1800 Watt Gas Generator Run Refridgerator
- Thread starter crazyoildude
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Look at the data tag on the 'fridge. My guess is that you'll see it draws 3 amps or so, which translates to about 360 watts, which you'd think would make it fine. The rub is that it has a lot higher starting load than the normal running load, and if the genny can't deliver a surge of current for that 1/2 second it takes to start the fridge then it might not work.
My SWAG is that it will work just fine. The only way to know for sure is to try it. Oh, and the newer the fridge, the better. They've really cut back on how much juice it takes to run refrigerators in the past 5-10 years.
My SWAG is that it will work just fine. The only way to know for sure is to try it. Oh, and the newer the fridge, the better. They've really cut back on how much juice it takes to run refrigerators in the past 5-10 years.
Yes it will. Coffee maker needs 1500 refridgerator takes 900-1000 depending on age.
I agree with 440, maybe a little more than 3 amps, but in that range. I added my stuff up and my furnace, fridge, freezer and pump only totaled 4000 watts.
Yes, 1800 watts is ~ 17 amps. My fridge is on a shared circuit and it along with the 700 watt microwave don't trip the 15 amp breaker.
I called GE several years ago and they said 3000 watts. You have starting spike plus the defrost heater might suck a lot.
update...... freezer workes with the generator now i have to try the two refridgerators
thanks for the post everyone..
thanks for the post everyone..
Originally Posted By: oilslick44
I called GE several years ago and they said 3000 watts. You have starting spike plus the defrost heater might suck a lot.
They must be talking about a 220 V fridge....
I called GE several years ago and they said 3000 watts. You have starting spike plus the defrost heater might suck a lot.
They must be talking about a 220 V fridge....
If it's a standard/ not inverter gen the flywheel will keep it going while the fridge compressor motor gets up to speed. My fridge only sucks 300-350 watts per "kill-a-watt" meter.
Is this a theroetical question or are the lights really out now?
Is this a theroetical question or are the lights really out now?
MolaKule
Staff member
I too thought the generator/inverter combo was a great technological piece until I ran it.
The Honda 3.5kW generator/inverter couses noise to all communication devices (poor EMI/RFI electrical filtering) and has poor surge capabilities. I subsequently sold it to my sister-In-Law and she put in her trailer since it is so quiet. In my view, the quietness is the only virtue.
I now have a 6.5kW Chonda-powered Genset.
I too would stick with the pure gas generator type of generator.
The Honda 3.5kW generator/inverter couses noise to all communication devices (poor EMI/RFI electrical filtering) and has poor surge capabilities. I subsequently sold it to my sister-In-Law and she put in her trailer since it is so quiet. In my view, the quietness is the only virtue.
I now have a 6.5kW Chonda-powered Genset.
I too would stick with the pure gas generator type of generator.
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What I'm curious to know is how well one of these 2000 W generator/inverters can run a gas furnace. It'd be really nice to have one of these wired up for backup to heat the building during an outage in a winter storm. Anyone done this?
My furnace runs fine on my Coleman Powermate 6250. I have heard of many furnaces that wouldn't run on a generator including one with the same Coleman/Bryant combination I have. There is a lot of speculation about why. I think it is because the furnace must have a good 3 wire connection to the generator. To meet code, you need a fool proof way to avoid back feeding to the incoming power line. No problem if you use a 3 wire pig tail to the furnace and an extension cord.
Furnaces don't draw much. I added it up and my furnace, fridge, freezer, and pump would only draw 4000 watts all running at the same time. I have my generator wired to an interlock and can use any circuit in the house. Note, any, not all at once.
Furnaces don't draw much. I added it up and my furnace, fridge, freezer, and pump would only draw 4000 watts all running at the same time. I have my generator wired to an interlock and can use any circuit in the house. Note, any, not all at once.
MolaKule
Staff member
Quote:
What I'm curious to know is how well one of these 2000 W generator/inverters can run a gas furnace.
Again, I would suggest avoiding the gen/inverter combo.
Let's say a blower motor in the furnace uses a 3/4 Hp motor. That's about 600 Watts rounded up. But the surge or starting power may be 1,800 watts. So a 2000 W unit would barely power it for startup.
Also, don't forget that the thermostat circuit runs off another (separate) 120 Volt circuit (120 Volt primary, 24 VAC secondry) to provide the 24Volts for the relays, but is low power.
In addition, the newer furnaces also have another motor that may power the combustion chamber, usually a 1/4 Hp or 1/2 Hp (running power) unit.
What I'm curious to know is how well one of these 2000 W generator/inverters can run a gas furnace.
Again, I would suggest avoiding the gen/inverter combo.
Let's say a blower motor in the furnace uses a 3/4 Hp motor. That's about 600 Watts rounded up. But the surge or starting power may be 1,800 watts. So a 2000 W unit would barely power it for startup.
Also, don't forget that the thermostat circuit runs off another (separate) 120 Volt circuit (120 Volt primary, 24 VAC secondry) to provide the 24Volts for the relays, but is low power.
In addition, the newer furnaces also have another motor that may power the combustion chamber, usually a 1/4 Hp or 1/2 Hp (running power) unit.
I am not going to dig it up, but once running modern furnaces don't draw that much power. The max on the name plate is likely with the blower motor running high speed for the A/C Heating usually uses a different winding for a slower speed and uses less power. Start up peaks are high but only last a minute or less.
Most thermostats run off a transformer that is part of the furnace controls. May even be code for the thermostat to be on the same circuit.
Most thermostats run off a transformer that is part of the furnace controls. May even be code for the thermostat to be on the same circuit.
My old furnace used a 1/3 hp split phase motor.... these motors have enormous starting current, 15 amps (1800 watts) or more for about 1-2 seconds.
Then it drew almost 300 watts when running
The new furnace.... an energy efficient, DC Brushless blower motor only draws 80 watts when running in "low gear" and starts very slowly, without a startup surge. Removing the W-2 wire in the thermostat locks the furnace in low gear.... I can run mine off my car inverter!!!
Since the efficiency is highest in "low heat" I left the W2 wire off all winter... that limits my heat output to 30,000 btu, but it never got behind, even on -20F nights.
Emergency heat in case of power failure is nice..... we would really not much need a refrigerator on those nights....
Actually a 10K btu Kerosene heater and the Franklin stove can do it all pretty easily.
Then it drew almost 300 watts when running
The new furnace.... an energy efficient, DC Brushless blower motor only draws 80 watts when running in "low gear" and starts very slowly, without a startup surge. Removing the W-2 wire in the thermostat locks the furnace in low gear.... I can run mine off my car inverter!!!
Since the efficiency is highest in "low heat" I left the W2 wire off all winter... that limits my heat output to 30,000 btu, but it never got behind, even on -20F nights.
Emergency heat in case of power failure is nice..... we would really not much need a refrigerator on those nights....
Actually a 10K btu Kerosene heater and the Franklin stove can do it all pretty easily.
Would it be easier to connect the shaft together or extend the freon tubing so that it turns on the gas generated compressor to cool instead?
Have the on/off driven by the refrigerator, while the fridge still plug into the wall for the rest of the control/lighting need.
Have the on/off driven by the refrigerator, while the fridge still plug into the wall for the rest of the control/lighting need.
Originally Posted By: labman
Most thermostats run off a transformer that is part of the furnace controls. May even be code for the thermostat to be on the same circuit.
The only way I figured mine can work, is the thermostat bleeds a tiny amount of current through a furnace relay coil, not enough to energize the coil, until the 'stat shorts itself turning the heat on.
Most thermostats run off a transformer that is part of the furnace controls. May even be code for the thermostat to be on the same circuit.
The only way I figured mine can work, is the thermostat bleeds a tiny amount of current through a furnace relay coil, not enough to energize the coil, until the 'stat shorts itself turning the heat on.
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