New AC compressor, what else should I replace?

[exranger06]

The AC compressor on my Explorer is dying. Specifically, the compressor clutch is dying. When you turn on the AC, the clutch just slips and makes a burning smell. For now, I disconnected the wire on the compressor to prevent it from engaging. But it's still making noise whenever the engine is running. (compressor is starting to seize??

)

So, I know I need a new compressor. I already bought a brand new unit. I also got new hoses because I suspect my old ones are leaking.

Is there anything else I need to replace?? Drier? Accumulator? Orifice tube? I only want to do this job once.

A fast response would be much appreciated. I need to order any more parts by tomorrow morning.

 

[2oldtommy]

Is the clutch dying because the compressor has seized, or is the clutch dead? I think you need more diagnostic work before you spend a lot of money on a compressor. If the compressor has truly seized, then you may have a lot of c"ap in the system that needs to be cleaned out before a rebuilt compressor is installed,FWIW- Oldtommy

 

[artificialist]

The condenser must be replaced because modern condensers are impossible to flush. However, you must use your flush kit to blow out the stuff from the evaporator.

I think your truck uses an accumulator and orifice tube. Replace both, brand name doesn't matter. In fact, the steel accumulators in Fords often rust through while the aluminum accumulators found in other cars stay together.

Check the condition of the serpentine belt, and when the belt is off, check all of the accessories on the belt drive and replace whatever is failing. At your vehicle's age, the idler and tensioner are probably about to fail if the have not already.

Finally, when you have the system back together, don't charge it yourself. Go to an auto repair shop, have the system vacuumed down for at least 1 hour, and then have the mechanic weigh and charge the refrigerant.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: artificialist
The condenser must be replaced because modern condensers are impossible to flush. However, you must use your flush kit to blow out the stuff from the evaporator.

I think your truck uses an accumulator and orifice tube. Replace both, brand name doesn't matter. In fact, the steel accumulators in Fords often rust through while the aluminum accumulators found in other cars stay together.

Check the condition of the serpentine belt, and when the belt is off, check all of the accessories on the belt drive and replace whatever is failing. At your vehicle's age, the idler and tensioner are probably about to fail if the have not already.

Finally, when you have the system back together, don't charge it yourself. Go to an auto repair shop, have the system vacuumed down for at least 1 hour, and then have the mechanic weigh and charge the refrigerant.
X2

 

[Familyguy]

Before you guys send this poor guy off to replace his condenser, I think cooler heads should prevail and he should get it checked out. It could simply be a bad compressor clutch.

That said, if the compressor hasn't grenaded, the usual routine is to replace the receiver/drier whenever you expose the A/C system to the atmosphere. You can leave everything else alone (again, assuming it's just a bad clutch and the compressor hasn't given up the ghost).

Best,

 

[exranger06]

This just got expensive. Is there an easy way to determine that the clutch failed and the compressor is not seizing? If it is the clutch, I don't have to replace the condenser, correct? I may just have to sweat this summer....

 

[mechanicx]

If you unhook a line at orifice tube that should give you a good indication if a lot of compressor debris got discharged out of the compressor or not. It entirely possible that the compressor did not throw debris.

 

[punisher]

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Before you guys send this poor guy off to replace his condenser, I think cooler heads should prevail and he should get it checked out. It could simply be a bad compressor clutch.

X2

If you have a 4.0 I seem to remember the compressor is mounted up top so it is easy to get to (I think 3.0s were a PITA). Can you turn the clutch (the thin front part) by hand? Can you get a 5/16 /8mm socket on it and turn it? Does it turn smoothly? If it turns smoothly, you might only need a clutch/coil/pully assembly for it which is a fairly easy job. If the pully bearing is bad, you can rip the snout off the compressor when it finally locks, as well as destroy the input shaft on an otherwise good compressor.

If the compressor is locked up, then you will need to replace the compressor, orifice tube, o-rings and accumulater/drier at the minimum. As mentioned above, you will find out how much garbage is in the lines/condenser when you pull the orifice tube out and examine it. I can't remember on those if the orifice is accessible or if it is integrated into the liquid line. If you don't have too much aluminum powder and teflon shavings in the orifice tube, you can likely get by without worrying about a condenser core. If it is packed full of garbage, then you might need to budget for a condenser.

Usually an FX-15 will make noise(knocking/rattling)before it locks. The longer it makes noise, the more garbage it puts in your AC system. If it was a catostrophic compressor failure, then you might not have any garbage at all in the system.

Never ever use a rebuilt FX-15 compressor in those. New only.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
Before you guys send this poor guy off to replace his condenser, I think cooler heads should prevail and he should get it checked out. It could simply be a bad compressor clutch.


His clutch is fine. He says it's ok untill he turns the AC on then the belt slips and the compressor will not turn. It's locked up and there is no cheap fix if he expects to get any life out of the replacement if he does not get all the contamination out of the system. The only way to get the contamination out is to replace everything before the Orifice tube.

Compressor, lines, condensor and flush the evap. I'd recomend an inline filter on the suction side too.

Be a $1200.00 job if I did it. $300 more would get him a new evaporator instead of trying to flush the old one.

 

[Colt45ws]

I didnt read it as specifying that it was locked up at this point. Only that the clutch slips, which could just be its worn out and slipping somewhat. The heat would kill the bearing in the pulley resulting in the noise with the engine on even with the compressor disabled. I think he needs to check if its indeed locked up.
Though if he already bought it....

 

[Chris142]

He can push on the outer clutch hub with a screwdriver to see if it turns and it wont. The outer hub will be white and brown from the heat created.

 

[mechtech2]

If it is slipping, it probably is a faulty compressor.
Not absolutely, but probably.

 

[exranger06]

Originally Posted By: punisher

If you have a 4.0 I seem to remember the compressor is mounted up top so it is easy to get to

Yep right on top

Originally Posted By: punisher

Can you turn the clutch (the thin front part) by hand? Can you get a 5/16 /8mm socket on it and turn it? Does it turn smoothly?

No, I tried turning it with a screwdriver and it hardly turns at all. I put a 5/16 socket on it and tried turning it. Still no go.

Originally Posted By: punisher

Usually an FX-15 will make noise(knocking/rattling)before it locks. The longer it makes noise, the more garbage it puts in your AC system. If it was a catostrophic compressor failure, then you might not have any garbage at all in the system.

Never ever use a rebuilt FX-15 compressor in those. New only.

This is an FS-10 compressor. The new one I bought is a brand new unit, not a reman.

 

[punisher]

Originally Posted By: exranger06

This is an FS-10 compressor. The new one I bought is a brand new unit, not a reman.


My bad. I meant FS-10.

 

[exranger06]

Originally Posted By: Chris142
He can push on the outer clutch hub with a screwdriver to see if it turns and it wont. The outer hub will be white and brown from the heat created.


Yeah it won't turn, and yes the hub is brown and white.

Originally Posted By: Chris142
Be a $1200.00 job if I did it. $300 more would get him a new evaporator instead of trying to flush the old one.

No way I'm spending $1200. How much of that is labor? I'm already $260 in the hole for the compressor and hoses. The condenser, accumulator and orifice tube would be another $113 including tax. (I get insanely good discounts working at Napa.) I’ll be bringing it to my mechanic buddy to do all the work (Yes, he’s OK with me bringing my own parts) and he may give me a little break on labor too.

Right now, the game plan is to get a shorter serpentine belt and bypass the compressor, and see if my mother (she’s usually the only one who drives this truck, she’s also the one footing the bill for this repair) can live without AC. This is an old beater, basically a spare vehicle, and it’s only still around because it doesn’t really cost us anything to run it. I can’t really justify spending a ton of money on a vehicle we don’t really need.

IF it becomes really unbearable, and it doesn’t cost too much to repair (about $350-400 max) it’ll get done.

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: exranger06

No way I'm spending $1200. How much of that is labor?
$300ish is labor to R&R the compressor, dryer, tube, condensor, flush the evap. $75 to evac, oil $20 etc.

Nother $150 or so labor to R&R the evap and $150 for the new evap.

These are not even list prices. Be over $2K if we went with list but we would never sell anything.

 

[Familyguy]

Paying someone else to repair an auto A/C system is expensive, for sure. If you've got the necessary diagnostic and repair skills, it's not THAT bad to get a decent set of gauges and a good vacuum pump to properly evacuate and recharge the system once you've done the easy part (swapping out the broken bits).

I recently fixed the A/C on my folks' Jetta. Their "mechanic" told them they needed a compressor and other silliness for a total bill of $1000 (for a car that's only worth about $2500). I told them to bring the car home and I'd drive up and check it out. The real problem? A $10 coolant temperature sensor that's replaced by popping out a c-clip and unplugging a wiring harness clip and then replacing with the new part. Total repair time...90 seconds. When the switch is bad, it thinks the engine is overheating and interrupts the power to the A/C compressor clutch. Sometimes what you're REALLY paying for is experience, not just a pair of hands to replace parts.

Best,

 

[mechtech2]

Family guy - That should have thrown a code.

 

[Familyguy]

Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Family guy - That should have thrown a code.


If it was THE coolant temp sensor used by the ECU, yes, it would throw a code. But this is simply an extra temp sensor solely to disengage the A/C if the engine coolant reaches temps indicating overheating...effectively disengaging the A/C compressor clutch.

Best,

 

[mechtech2]

family guy - Most cars use a pressure switch for that purpose.
It effectively does the same thing as a temp switch, I suppose.
And either way, broken means no AC!

There are all sorts of ways to skin a cat!