Missing Transmission Dipstick

[gunia]

I noticed in my 2003 Honda CRV that the transmission dipstick was missing. The car has 76,000 miles and was last serviced at 65,000 for the 60k serive that included the ATF drain/refill. My concern is that the oil has been exposed to moisture and other contaminants over the 8 months and 11,000 miles. Honda doesn't recommend a ATF flush, but how else can I be sure that most of the contaminants have been removed?

Also, if I do flush the system...would it be ok to replace the honda ATF with Valvoline Maxlife or with it hurt the trans? I've always been told that honda ATs and sensitive to the fluid.

 

[hate2work]

I believe that Honda recommends a series of drain and refills rather than a flush.

 

[gunia]

I just had it at a honda dealership and asked to drain/refill the ATF three times. They only did it once and said to drain it again in 6 months. I don't see how this helps. Another mechanic shop recommended to flush the systems with 12 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife (http://www.valvoline.com/products/consum...ission-fluid/37). He has been flushing honda and acura tranmissions without a problem. I'm considering this but wanted to be sure that it was safe.

 

[Sayjac]

If you are concerned do a DIY complete trans fluid exchange similar to the youtube here.

Changes I might make to his method is to use the trans fluid of your choice all the way, instead of the DexIII/Mercon first.

Then I would use the trans fluid return line (from rad), instead of the supply line and some clear plastic tubing into a jug or drain pan.

As for the fluid, I've always used Honda Z-1 with success. I've also seen where many here like Amsoil in a Honda. Don't know much about Maxlife, but I suppose if you don't want to use Z-1, it should be ok with complete exchange.

 

[gunia]

I have a dumb question...what is the difference between DIY fluid exchange and a trans flush? Does a trans flush force the fluid through the system faster than the DIY exchange? Just want to understand why a flush could be bad to a transmission.

 

[Sayjac]

Actually the term "flush" does imply a forced process, rather than the passive method of a trans fluid exchange. IMO, I would NOT do a trans "flush", though the terms as are many times used interchangeably.

There is a thread here somewhere regarding using the term trans flush incorrectly to describe an exchange.

 

[VicL]

Honda has released official service bulletins that specifically recommend against power flushes. Their technique is what hate2work wrote, just a series of drain & fills. Apparently power flushes have been known to damage seals.

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: gunia
I just had it at a honda dealership and asked to drain/refill the ATF three times. They only did it once and said to drain it again in 6 months. I don't see how this helps. Another mechanic shop recommended to flush the systems with 12 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife (http://www.valvoline.com/products/consum...ission-fluid/37). He has been flushing honda and acura tranmissions without a problem. I'm considering this but wanted to be sure that it was safe.


Doing a single drain and refill will get around 20-40% fresh fluid in the tranny, depending on how much it holds and how much gets drained each time. By doing back to back to back drain and refills it ends up getting closer to 80-90% new fluid in the tranny. That's the way Honda wants it done, not sure why. BTW, you need to drive the car a bit ( maybe 5 or 10 miles ) between drains to mix it well. I have no idea why your Honda shop told you to come back in 6 months.

It is possible to do a complete flush on a Honda tranny, you just need to know what you're doing. If you feel confident in this shop you mentioned, then it would prolly be safe to have him do it.

 

[Sayjac]

That drain refill series is one technique, the one mentioned in the OM, but not the only safe/effective technique. The coolant line trans fluid exchange has been done successfully by several members. It's safe to say that the drain/refill series technique is recommended because it involves the bare minimum of mechanical ability, knowledge and tools. It also sells (wastes) more Z-1 (or other) than the coolant line exchange where you run the fluid until it runs light red.

If the cooler lines are easily accessable, which on a Honda they generally are, the exchange is a good alternative. Again, I'd likely make the changes I mentioned above, using the return line and your fluid of choice off right off the bat.

Whichever method you choose, I agree that you should avoid any type of 'power flush' method. Good Luck.

 

[gunia]

Do you think its worth it to send a sample of ATF to Blackstone labs for analysis? If so what tests should I ask to perform.

 

[Sayjac]

I guess my question would be, what do you hope to gain? If it came back looking good would you just leave the current in there, or just do one drain and refill? If it's shifting well/ok, then that might be an option.

I assume they would do a standard UOA, as posted in the UOA section.

For me, in that case I'd just save the UOA money and do Z-1 a drain and refill to freshen the add pack and move on with a new dipstick. JMO

Otherwise, just use one of the procedures listed previously in the thread.