I have a 1994 Dodge Shadow 2.2L OHC l4 5spd that has 214K miles on it. It leaks a little bit of oil about 0.1-0.3 of a qrt per 1000 miles. I am currently running Pennzoil yellow bottle 5w-30. I was wondering would switching to a 10w-30 be better for the high miles and maybe control the leaks a little better. I may try some Auto-RX and see if it will slow the leak any.
Switch from 5w-30 to 10w-30?
- Thread starter crazycrak
- Start date
- Status
switch to a high mileage 5w30 they usually have seal conditioners and are blended on the high side of the 5w30
they also have a lot of other things in them that your engine will like such as cleaning abilites
they also have a lot of other things in them that your engine will like such as cleaning abilites
Before I say anything else, that's not much of a leak.
A 10w30 is the same as 5w30 when at operating temperatures. Merely switching cold viscosity isn't likely to do much for you. Instead, try a high mileage oil and see if that helps. High mileage oils have seal conditioners.
I don't recommend Auto-RX or any cleaning solutions if you have a leak because it might be caused by old seals. Sludge sometimes forms around oil seals acting as a second sealing layer. Removing the sludge without conditioning your seals can accelerate the leak in some cases.
A 10w30 is the same as 5w30 when at operating temperatures. Merely switching cold viscosity isn't likely to do much for you. Instead, try a high mileage oil and see if that helps. High mileage oils have seal conditioners.
I don't recommend Auto-RX or any cleaning solutions if you have a leak because it might be caused by old seals. Sludge sometimes forms around oil seals acting as a second sealing layer. Removing the sludge without conditioning your seals can accelerate the leak in some cases.
Ok how is Pennzoil HM oil? I havent heard to much about it.
The leak is comming from the rear main seal. Its just barley damp around the dust sheild somtimes you can see a little drip hanging on to the bell housing.
The leak is comming from the rear main seal. Its just barley damp around the dust sheild somtimes you can see a little drip hanging on to the bell housing.
Last edited:
Possibly going to a High Mileage Oil might help control the leaks. I would recommend trying Valvoline MaxLife (either the blend or the full synthetic). I think a 10W30 would also help.
Also use a good oil filter (Pureolator PureOne, Wix or Napa Gold)Good luck!
______________________________________________________
2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 82,000
Valvoline MaxLife Syn 5W30
Pureolator PureOne filter
Also use a good oil filter (Pureolator PureOne, Wix or Napa Gold)Good luck!
______________________________________________________
2003 Ford Focus SE (2.3L) / 82,000
Valvoline MaxLife Syn 5W30
Pureolator PureOne filter
Is the engine noisy after it's warmed up to normal temp? 5w-30 will shear to borderline 5w-20 and that's too thin for worn bearings. 10w-30 shears to 5w-30 so that's a little better. 10w-40 is a good summer grade, but some Chrysler owners manuals prohibit 10w-40. If you don't have the manual for your car you probably shouldn't use it.
Many members have posted Maxlife blend slowed or stopped minor leaks. It's too expensive though.
If I were you I'd try Wallmart supertech 10w-30 high mileage oil.
Many members have posted Maxlife blend slowed or stopped minor leaks. It's too expensive though.
If I were you I'd try Wallmart supertech 10w-30 high mileage oil.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Before I say anything else, that's not much of a leak.
A 10w30 is the same as 5w30 when at operating temperatures. Merely switching cold viscosity isn't likely to do much for you. Instead, try a high mileage oil and see if that helps. High mileage oils have seal conditioners.
I don't recommend Auto-RX or any cleaning solutions if you have a leak because it might be caused by old seals. Sludge sometimes forms around oil seals acting as a second sealing layer. Removing the sludge without conditioning your seals can accelerate the leak in some cases.
+1. QS redbottle is a good high mileage oil.
Before I say anything else, that's not much of a leak.
A 10w30 is the same as 5w30 when at operating temperatures. Merely switching cold viscosity isn't likely to do much for you. Instead, try a high mileage oil and see if that helps. High mileage oils have seal conditioners.
I don't recommend Auto-RX or any cleaning solutions if you have a leak because it might be caused by old seals. Sludge sometimes forms around oil seals acting as a second sealing layer. Removing the sludge without conditioning your seals can accelerate the leak in some cases.
+1. QS redbottle is a good high mileage oil.
Originally Posted By: crazycrak
Ok how is Pennzoil HM oil? I havent heard to much about it.
The leak is comming from the rear main seal. Its just barley damp around the dust sheild somtimes you can see a little drip hanging on to the bell housing.
My '97 Dodge Dakota has a small rear main seal leak, like yours. Mine's a BIT faster than yours; it's always got a drip hanging from the bellhousing, and will often leave a spot or two on the ground when parked overnight.
I've had luck using Valvoline MaxLife oil. I've used a lot of Pennzoil products in the past (I use PP in the van), but have never tried the Pennzoil HM for some reason. The Valvoline is typically a dollar cheaper, so that's what I've been using.
If I don't use the MaxLife, the leak on my truck is worse, when I do use it, the leak is gone for the first 1000 miles or so, then slowly re-appears. I'm on a 2k mile OCI interval (due to low miles driven per year), so overall, I don't lose much oil.
I'd suggest either the Pennzoil HM or the Valvoline ML. I think you'll have some success with that, given how slow your leak is.
Ok how is Pennzoil HM oil? I havent heard to much about it.
The leak is comming from the rear main seal. Its just barley damp around the dust sheild somtimes you can see a little drip hanging on to the bell housing.
My '97 Dodge Dakota has a small rear main seal leak, like yours. Mine's a BIT faster than yours; it's always got a drip hanging from the bellhousing, and will often leave a spot or two on the ground when parked overnight.
I've had luck using Valvoline MaxLife oil. I've used a lot of Pennzoil products in the past (I use PP in the van), but have never tried the Pennzoil HM for some reason. The Valvoline is typically a dollar cheaper, so that's what I've been using.
If I don't use the MaxLife, the leak on my truck is worse, when I do use it, the leak is gone for the first 1000 miles or so, then slowly re-appears. I'm on a 2k mile OCI interval (due to low miles driven per year), so overall, I don't lose much oil.
I'd suggest either the Pennzoil HM or the Valvoline ML. I think you'll have some success with that, given how slow your leak is.
Originally Posted By: jorton
If I were you I'd try Wallmart supertech 10w-30 high mileage oil.
I may give this a try myself.
Interestingly, the Super Tech HM oil is one of the few (only?) HM oils that still retain the "Energy Conserving" mark on the API symbol. From that respect alone, I haven't given it much consideration (thinking that it didn't have the amount of "energy-sapping" additives that the name brand oils apparently do).
If I were you I'd try Wallmart supertech 10w-30 high mileage oil.
I may give this a try myself.
Interestingly, the Super Tech HM oil is one of the few (only?) HM oils that still retain the "Energy Conserving" mark on the API symbol. From that respect alone, I haven't given it much consideration (thinking that it didn't have the amount of "energy-sapping" additives that the name brand oils apparently do).
I have used Maxlife as a regular oil many times, even though my car at the time didn't need a high mileage oil, it is an outstanding oil. I would definitely try the Maxlife in whichever flavor you wish, even if you try some of the other high mileage oils don't give up without a couple Maxlife OCI's .
I have used hm pennzoil with fantastic results... I have also used valvoline hm with great results also.. Try the 5w30 hm oils they do work in a lot of cases... use 5w30 if that is what your engine calls for hm oils are blended on the high side of the spectrum ... You can actually feel the thicker oil film with the hm oils even with the same 5w30
Originally Posted By: JT1
Originally Posted By: Greggy_D
Originally Posted By: jorton
5w-30 will shear to borderline 5w-20 and that's too thin for worn bearings. 10w-30 shears to 5w-30 so that's a little better.
Really?
Nice, a 30wt that shears to a 30 wt.
HOLY [censored]!
Originally Posted By: Greggy_D
Originally Posted By: jorton
5w-30 will shear to borderline 5w-20 and that's too thin for worn bearings. 10w-30 shears to 5w-30 so that's a little better.
Really?
Nice, a 30wt that shears to a 30 wt.
HOLY [censored]!
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Originally Posted By: jorton
10w-30 shears to 5w-30 so that's a little better.
How does an oil shear its cold rating? 10w30 would either shear down to a 10w30 with a slightly lower cSt or shear down to either a 5w20 or SAE 20.
cst vis @ 100c
5w-30 = 9.1-11.3
10w-30 = 9.9-11.9
When used 10w-30 tests below 9.9, it's 5w-30.
Originally Posted By: jorton
10w-30 shears to 5w-30 so that's a little better.
How does an oil shear its cold rating? 10w30 would either shear down to a 10w30 with a slightly lower cSt or shear down to either a 5w20 or SAE 20.
cst vis @ 100c
5w-30 = 9.1-11.3
10w-30 = 9.9-11.9
When used 10w-30 tests below 9.9, it's 5w-30.
Originally Posted By: jorton
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Originally Posted By: jorton
10w-30 shears to 5w-30 so that's a little better.
How does an oil shear its cold rating? 10w30 would either shear down to a 10w30 with a slightly lower cSt or shear down to either a 5w20 or SAE 20.
cst vis @ 100c
5w-30 = 9.1-11.3
10w-30 = 9.9-11.9
When used 10w-30 tests below 9.9, it's 5w-30.
Well, not exactly because cSt vis @ 100c is testing the 30, not the 5. As long as it does not fall below the 9.1, it's still a 30.
Originally Posted By: sangyup81
Originally Posted By: jorton
10w-30 shears to 5w-30 so that's a little better.
How does an oil shear its cold rating? 10w30 would either shear down to a 10w30 with a slightly lower cSt or shear down to either a 5w20 or SAE 20.
cst vis @ 100c
5w-30 = 9.1-11.3
10w-30 = 9.9-11.9
When used 10w-30 tests below 9.9, it's 5w-30.
Well, not exactly because cSt vis @ 100c is testing the 30, not the 5. As long as it does not fall below the 9.1, it's still a 30.
I ran an OCI of SuperTech 10W30 HM in my wife's troublesome Malibu Maxx last summer. It had seeping at the rear main seal with only 60K. The ST stopped the leak. It currently has Quaker State conventional 5W30 for winter, and there's been no evidence of return seepage. The next OCI will either be whatever HM oil I find on the clearance rack, or I'll stick with the Supertech.
- Status
Similar threads
