After Overheating a few times, should spark plugs

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After overheating a few times, should my spark plugs be changed?

Here's the story.

This past July, I was driving my Stratus up to my brother's cabin, and its 17km from the Main Highway, no cell service.

I noticed some weird noises while on the highway, but all the gauges were fine. Thought it was just wind noise. Continued on.

A few minutes later, I was navigating the mountain road, and I notice my Temperature gauge light is on! And the Gauge is at Max!. I quickly turn the heat on full blast, but there isn't any. Engine smells alright, so I think maybe a bad connection at the sending unit due to the tough mountain road.

A few minutes later, the car shuts down. Can't crank it over. The computer has shut down the car to prevent damage. No cell service either. I pop the rad cap, nothing in there. Kept looking for leaks, there wasn't any. But i'm out of coolant now.

I let the car cool down, and thankfully someone comes by, and pulls over to help. He has a bunch of water bottles in the back of his truck, and offers them to me. I add them in, pop the cap on and get to the cabin.

After looking around, I discovered it as a bad water pump.

Problem now is, when I have to go home a few days, its 17km out to the highway, but we do have a phone to call a tow truck to my ferry (which is 180km away)

I call up a bunch of auto parts store, no one carries the water pump in stock around there.

On the way back, I filled up my car with water, filled up a bunch of water jugs with water, and I call BCAA to set up a tow at the Highway Entrance. Unfortunately the water pump is leaking like crazy now, and about 1/2 way it reaches max on the temp gauge. I top it with water, it cools a bit, but then reaches max again, but not shutting down. I make it back to the highway, and let it cool down, and top up the water.

I get towed back to the ferry, and by that time I make it back to my side of the water, my car is completely cool. I've refilled the jugs on the ferry, and decide to drive home. Its about 10km. After 3 km, the water pump blows and takes my timing belt off a few teeth.

Thankfully, there was no valve damage, so I did timing belt, water pump, head gasket, valve stem gaskets, a valve grind, etc.

Car runs beautiful and has run great since August when I got it patched up.

Problem now is my mileage. It hasn't been as good as it has been. I used to average 28-32MPG in the city, now its 22-25MPG. Highway, I used to get 34-40MPG, now I haven't even been able to hit 30, but haven't really done a long highway trip.

I have NGK Gpower Platnium's in there. Could overheating the car past the Hot Mark on the gauge with no Water cause any damage to the spark plugs? I've thought about temporary changing the to the stock champion coppers to see if the mileage goes back up.

Do you think this is a good idea?

My mileage is closer to New Yorker Territory with the 3.3 V6 Auto. This is a 2.0 I4 with a 5 speed.

If the mileage is close, I should just drive my New Yorker Fifth Avenue more. Its more comfortable, quiet, and has a lot more legroom.
 
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With that much overheating, anything is possible.

Putting in a new, cheap set of plugs couldn't hurt anything.
 
Waste of time IMO. Nope the plugs can handle the heat better than anything else. Cam Timing might be off a tooth. I would do another OC - the rings are gummed up to death at this point. Maybe some light oil for a day of vigorous driving to clean things up - then a change.
 
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I pop the rad cap, nothing in there. Kept looking for leaks, there wasn't any. But i'm out of coolant now.


What were you going to have done if there was coolant in there?
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
With that much overheating, anything is possible.

Putting in a new, cheap set of plugs couldn't hurt anything.


I can get em for $3 each today at the local parts store, or I can order them from our Champion Supplier @ work and wait a week, for $1.60 each. I'll probably do that, since the car runs fine. No point in rushing into it. It only takes a few more bucks out of my wallet every week or two for the mileage lost.

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Waste of time IMO. Nope the plugs can handle the heat better than anything else. Cam Timing might be off a tooth. I would do another OC - the rings are gummed up to death at this point. Maybe some light oil for a day of vigorous driving to clean things up - then a change.


I don't think cam timing is off. I sure made sure that the gears were lined up, even going so far as to taking a picture with my camera. Computer would detect a tooth off, that's one of the codes it threw when I checked it when I blew the pump.

When the water pump blew, it had Valvoline Maxlife 5w30. I ran it for 2 days after the repair so all the contaminants from the repair would get caught in the oil filter. I then added brand new Valvoline Maxlife 5w30. Now as of last month, it has Pennzoil Platinum 5w30, and it seems to be quieter and smoother.

I bet the rings have some gunk from the high heat they sustained. Maxlife is a stout oil, and I applaud how clean the engine was when I pulled it apart to do the repair:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...688#Post1549688

Will probably try Pennzoil Ultra if we get it here, or some amsoil SSO to continue cleaning.

Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
You can pull a corner plug and see if its blued on the GND or sponged the center insulator.
Will try that, but when I pulled the plugs when I got home, they looked pretty normal to me. It could have changed since then.

Originally Posted By: cchase

What were you going to have done if there was coolant in there?


Check for air locks and pass it off as a bad sending unit.
 
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I would give it a tune up with new air filter and clean the throttle body (completely by removing it and cleaning). Check wires & cap and see what happens. If that doesn't do it get a "block tester" from NAPA for about $50. It is possible you have a fractured head gasket and combustion gasses are passing one way into your engine coolant and building pressure into the system to be ultimately "burped out" by the radiator cap. One symptom for this will be the engine temperature fluctuating while driving. As pressure builds in the cooling system the engine will get hot than after a "burp" it will cool back down. But if you only have an "idiot light " guage you won't be able to see temperature fluctuations.
 
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Originally Posted By: PT1
I would give it a tune up with new air filter and clean the throttle body (completely by removing it and cleaning). Check wires & cap and see what happens. If that doesn't do it get a "block tester" from NAPA for about $50. It is possible you have a fractured head gasket and combustion gasses are passing one way into your engine coolant and building pressure into the system to be ultimately "burped out" by the radiator cap. One symptom for this will be the engine temperature fluctuating while driving. As pressure builds in the cooling system the engine will get hot than after a "burp" it will cool back down. But if you only have an "idiot light " guage you won't be able to see temperature fluctuations.



I surfaced the head, installed a new head gasket when I did the repair in august (as per my post above, please re-read). This car now has no problems with cooling. I did a new radiator cap, new thermostat at the same time, and yes this car has a temp gauge as well as an idiot light.

The question i'm asking in this thread, is can repeatedly high heat damage spark plugs? I've got new NGK blue plug wires installed, and the air filter is new. Just not getting the mileage it used to.
 
If the car runs as well as you say, then it isn't the plugs. How is the oil consumption? Sometimes a severe overheat will make the piston rings lose tension, so you lose some compression and get more blowby, and efficiency hurts. But that's usually accompanied by a decrease in gas mileage.

If you just saw a drop in efficiency, my gut feeling is that you got the cam timing off by a tooth, probably retarded, and the result is lower efficiency at cruising speeds. If it really takes off and runs better than ever at *high* RPM, then that's a dead giveaway.

Its also possible you took out the knock sensor and its always running with minimum spark advance, or you damaged a computer temperature sensor and its never thinking the engine is fully warmed up.
 
+1. I agree. You should run a compression test. The only other thing I can think of is check your fuel pressure regulator for fuel leaking.
 
Originally Posted By: 440Magnum
If the car runs as well as you say, then it isn't the plugs. How is the oil consumption? Sometimes a severe overheat will make the piston rings lose tension, so you lose some compression and get more blowby, and efficiency hurts. But that's usually accompanied by a decrease in gas mileage.

If you just saw a drop in efficiency, my gut feeling is that you got the cam timing off by a tooth, probably retarded, and the result is lower efficiency at cruising speeds. If it really takes off and runs better than ever at *high* RPM, then that's a dead giveaway.

Its also possible you took out the knock sensor and its always running with minimum spark advance, or you damaged a computer temperature sensor and its never thinking the engine is fully warmed up.


Oil consumption was pretty bad until this happened. My valve stem seals were going, and I was going through a quart every 2000miles. Now with the new stem seals, I now run synthetic and it hasn't lost a drop.

Good catch on the temp sensor. I did notice during that trip the gauge on the car never actually dropped down to cold, even after sitting overnight. It does now, but maybe the engine computer temp sensor has something wrong. I'll have to test it.


Originally Posted By: mechanicx
+1. I agree. You should run a compression test. The only other thing I can think of is check your fuel pressure regulator for fuel leaking.


Pressure regulator was replaced last year when I did the fuel pump. Its part of the fuel pump module inside the tank and I can only access it by dropping the tank.

Will try a compression test at some point in the future.
 
Originally Posted By: mechjames
Originally Posted By: cchase

What were you going to have done if there was coolant in there?


Check for air locks and pass it off as a bad sending unit.


My point was that it's extremely dangerous to remove the radiator cap on a hot engine.
 
Originally Posted By: cchase
Originally Posted By: mechjames
Originally Posted By: cchase

What were you going to have done if there was coolant in there?


Check for air locks and pass it off as a bad sending unit.


My point was that it's extremely dangerous to remove the radiator cap on a hot engine.


I didn't have much of a choice. I was stuck in the middle of NOWHERE, and I needed to find out what was wrong, so I pulled a towel over my arm and hand, and turned it one click. No pressure hiss, cause there wasn't any coolant in there. Then I just pulled the cap off.
 
Fair enough, you didn't mention the towel and check and I was picturing carnage.
thumbsup2.gif
 
yea it was one of my towels I was going to use after a shower at the cabin. Thankfully I brought two, there isn't any washing machine there. Just a 12V water pump and a generator water heater.
 
Originally Posted By: mechjames
I've got new NGK blue plug wires installed, and the air filter is new. Just not getting the mileage it used to.
I hav ehad problems with the NGK wires - they aint Packard thats for sure. Is the airbox properly sealed, all lines and hoses intact, no exhaust leajks at all, ground wire from exhaust to body, chassis, block in exact same place, PCV functioning?
 
I had an issue once with the NGK plug wires, they list the ones for my New Yorker as the caravan ones, and they didn't fit right. Not long enough and the numbered wires were in all the wrong positions. I emailed to inform them, but never heard back. I even tried another box, it was the same. Autolite pro's went on there.

Airbox is properly sealed, all hoses are intact that I can tell (will try a carb cleaner spraydown later), a little exhaust leak is coming where the catylic converter meets the engine pipe though.

Been wondering about the ground wire, trying to find a photo online to make sure I put it back in the right place after I fixed it.

PCV is new, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to check it.
 
Exhaust leak between cat and engine will throw off the o2 sensor completely - system has to have NO LEAKS AT ALL. Thats probabaly thae problem. I hate exhaust leaks! Good luck on that :)
 
The issue with NGK (tried some unsuccessfully as replacement on a "leaky" miata 1.8) is the quality of the "wire" and middle insulator dielectric. PACKARD seems to have a corner on the market for making great secondary ignition wire with high dielectric breakdown strength. Many Japanese OEM were using them for automotive as do many wirebonder machines with EFO wands (for wiring up sillicon chips in standard outline packages like QFP, QFN and the old DIPS)
 
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Exhaust leak between cat and engine will throw off the o2 sensor completely - system has to have NO LEAKS AT ALL. Thats probabaly thae problem. I hate exhaust leaks! Good luck on that :)


Yea I know. Its too bad I haven't been able to find a listing for a cat anywhere for a 1995 Dodge Stratus ES 2.0L. Walker starts them for 1996, and so do other manufacturers.

I might end up just hacking the cat off and welding a universal one on, instead of dealership.
 
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