Hose clamps that won't leak in cold weather

[brianl703]

Are those constant-tension hose clamps any good?

My Crown Vic starts leaking from both ends of the upper radiator hose whenever it gets cold (15-20 degrees) overnight. The constant-tension hose clamps with the spring on the worm drive bolt are supposed to be the solution to the problem.

Yes, I've tried tightening the hose clamps that are on it now. Doesn't help. NAPA has the constant tension clamps, and they also have T-bolt clamps.

Which would you use to solve this problem?

(There is a distinct possibility that the hose clamps on it now are garbage, because one of them started stripping out and I wasn't cranking on it very hard..)

 

[cchase]

Be careful with the screw-type constant-tension hose clamps. Apparently you can over-tighten them. I found out when mine broke apart on the upper radiator hose a week after I put it on and happened to notice that the temperature was at 3/4 and climbing as I was about to pull in the driveway.

I would always use the t-bolt if you're concerned about it coming apart, I think it's a more robust design.

 

[eljefino]

Yes they are better, they're factory on my saturns. Mine have a leaf spring type deal that goes about halfway around, under the band part. Your design sounds good too, I wonder if they slip enough on sticky rubber to expand and contract properly.

There are a lot of aftermarket junk clamps out there too. People chuck those factory spring ones for screw ones thinking they're better/tighter. They are tighter until the rubber in the hose deforms... then looser.

 

[mechtech2]

Spring clamps work well, if they are the right size - constant tension.
Screw clamps work well, if the hose and nipple is good.
I'd yank the hose and make sure the surfaces are clean and true [round]. Replace the hose if it is aged.
Anybody's clamp should work if the pieces are OK, in other words.

 

[nthach]

I like German Gema or American made Ideal clamps here. Kragen used to carry Gema constant tension clamps.

Gates also has a weird type of clamp that heat-shrinks over the hose and nipple and it acts almost like a crimp.

 

[The Critic]

I've never understood why some auto enthusiasts or technicians were so enthusiastic towards those worm type clamps. They either get looser over time or the installer would overtighten one and cause a split in the hose.

The spring type constant-tension clamps (usually factory) are far superior to any worm-type clamp IMO.

 

[labman]

In the past I have had very good luck with the worm drive clamps. East to instal, seal good, and easy to remove. They can be a problem with the higher expansion with heat with aluminum fittings.

 

[mechanicx]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
I've never understood why some auto enthusiasts or technicians were so enthusiastic towards those worm type clamps. They either get looser over time or the installer would overtighten one and cause a split in the hose.

The spring type constant-tension clamps (usually factory) are far superior to any worm-type clamp IMO.


I like the spring clamps too, but sometimes it is very hard to get access with hose clamp pliers whereas you can get a socket onto the worm screw clamps. Also the spring clamps are harder to find to buy. Sometimes replacement hoses are thicker than the originals and you have to replace the spring clamps with something else and all you find is worm clamps.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: brianl703
Are those constant-tension hose clamps any good?

My Crown Vic starts leaking from both ends of the upper radiator hose whenever it gets cold (15-20 degrees) overnight. The constant-tension hose clamps with the spring on the worm drive bolt are supposed to be the solution to the problem.

Yes, I've tried tightening the hose clamps that are on it now. Doesn't help. NAPA has the constant tension clamps, and they also have T-bolt clamps.

Which would you use to solve this problem?

(There is a distinct possibility that the hose clamps on it now are garbage, because one of them started stripping out and I wasn't cranking on it very hard..)


If you can't resolve the issue by changing clamps try this. Apply a coat of Permetex gasket shellac or similar [the kind with the brush in the bottle] inside the hose, going from the end of the hose in about an inch or so. Then use a screw type hose clamp. Although I'm not a fan of doing it, it has helped a few times over the years with hoses leaking at clamps. Just thought I'd toss that out there.

 

[mechtech2]

Worm clamps are MUCH wider than spring types. This is an advantage in some ways, concerning spreading the load.
Plus, they can be put on as a replacement without hose/coolant removal.

 

[brianl703]

I went to NAPA and got the constant-torque hose clamps. For $6 each I sure hope these work better. They do look like they're worth $6-wider, looks much more heavy-duty.

http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail.aspx?R=BK_7051507_0254113330

I'll be installing these without removing the hose. What I thought was a spring is actually 5 washers. I guess they act like a spring.

 

[defektes]

I replaced all of my hose clamps with made in USA ideal screw clamps. I read online that the constant tension clamps get weaker with age.

 

[oilboy123]

Goodyear has Smart clamps that I liked. Can't find them in Washington, and don't know how to get a hold of them?

 

[Gary Allan]

The junk my NAPA carries is ..well, junk. I can't seem to find higher quality aviation grade SS clamps anywhere. The NAPA stuff oxidizes and corrodes quite quickly. At least what MY NAPA carries. I live with lots of tightening as a PM item.

 

[JimPghPA]

I have found that the rubber of the hose directly below the clamp spreads out just a little over time. When I put a new hose on a car I retighten the clamp (spiral worm type) just a little, about a month after the initial instillation, and again about six months after initial instillation. Then it is good for years. It takes that many months for the rubber below the clamp to spread out. When I have taken this into account and tightened the clamps at proper time intervals, I have had no problems.

 

[oilboy123]

I just don't know how the shops get by doing a job when they can't re-tighten the hose clamps? I did some work in a shop many years ago.

Never saw the vehicles come back. But that doesn't mean everything was A OK? Everything I do now I re-tighten at least once.

 

[eljefino]

Originally Posted By: Gary Allan
The junk my NAPA carries is ..well, junk. I can't seem to find higher quality aviation grade SS clamps anywhere. The NAPA stuff oxidizes and corrodes quite quickly. At least what MY NAPA carries. I live with lots of tightening as a PM item.


I would try a marine store. The clamps will survive a shipwreck.

 

[Gary Allan]

I got spoiled at my old job. Everything we did was with the expensive stuff. SS everything. It's the only thing that survived. Now I deal with consumer grade stuff and can't get the endurance/performance out of it.

 

[mechtech2]

If the hose and substrate are OK, any clamp that is not broken will seal it just fine for years and years.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: brianl703

That is the one which cuts the hose as you tighten the clamp. I hate that design. Also it never stays true circular and puts uneven pressure on the hose.

- Vikas