Odd ?- PureOne vs. Purolator Classic & 5w20

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First, are the PureOnes' considered to be a more "restrictive" filter vs. the regular "Classic"? I'm currently using RP 5w20 in my Mazda6 (V6) and was curious if it may be "better" to use one filter over the other? Especially if one is better for flow purposes. I'd hate to think that a more restrictive may cause extra start up wear. Just want to keep this guy runnin' as long as possible! BTW: I do 5000mi OCIs'.
 
I believe the Pureones are more restrictive than the Classics
(from reading on BITOG). For a 5K OCI I think the Classics are fine.
 
Choose your filter based on how much you're going to get out of it on a $0.0x/mile basis. You're not doing your engine any favors by using a top tier filter over shorter mileage. Outside of that it comes down to niche engine characteristics or flukes on whether one filter works better than another.
 
I don't think it's known the P1 is more restrictive. It has a better media and more surface area. If you are using 5W20 that makes it less likely to bypass. Add to that if you are changing the filter regualarly it is less likely to be restrictive. Since a filter's efficiency improves with use, I'd take a different argument and say the P1 gives more advantages for short intervals. The P1 is not really marketed as a longer life filter anyway although it can probably go fairly long.
 
Your answers will generally depend on what the poster believes to be true. Graphs and data from Purolator has been posted here numerous times by SuperBusa showing the excellent flow characteristics to the P1, and high P1 flow restriction to be a myth.

The skeptics say how can that be true? Better efficiency, ie. 99.9%, must make the P1 more restrictive. The data from Purolator must be somehow skewed to show favorable flow.

Me, I'm satisfied with that the flow of the P1 is fine. I use the P1 with confidence, even on my Honda 3.0L Accord that's still under warranty.

If you are not comfortable with the P1, use the Classic or some other filter of your choice.

IMO, the P1 is a great bang for the buck filter, and it's flow characteristics will not harm your engine at start up.
 
I've used both types on engines with accurate oil pressure gauges- never noticed any hint that the P1 is more restrictive. If anything, it might flow a tick better. More surface area can offset a finer pore size. Both are good filters.
 
The way I understand it is with more media and uniform pleats the pressure is equalized and allows less restriction.
 
Until one gets tot he point that 99% of 5-15 micron particles are being captured first pass I do not think it matters really. No one has proved to my satisfaction that using say an AMsoil Ea filter will prolong engine life over using SuperTech filter in real world use. So with that being said even less has been ofered for others like Pur0ne and K&N and M1 etc...............

Lab tests and real world results are two different things. So if I was really concerned I would look into remote bypass filtration other wise do not worry about it. Look how many people get 300,000 or more with Jiffy Lube service???????I am preety sure they are not using premium filters.

Money spent on OEM paper air filters and pre,ium oils will do more in the long run then premium oil filters.Keep the engine clean with an oil that doesnot leave a boat load of deposits behind and keep the air coming into the engine clean and what is their for the oil filter to do? Not much.

As far as I know no one has gotten drasticly longer life out any engine design over and over again duy to filtration higher then OEM calls for. We have Toyota's,Audi's,Honda's with 500,000 miles on them with no extra ordinary filtration being needed.

Lab results and theory all make sense that bette filtration should drasticly increase life span but their are so many variables that lab results do not take into accountinthe real world.

So if you want to run a Purone do it but do not worry about it!Likewise if you decide to run a Walmat Special then do so not enough real world data points to make the lab results or theory true or false.
 
Right. Pick through all River Rats data, which may or may not mean much, and it looks like the Classic does the same job as the P1 for half the price. Tough to find hard data to stop you from using cheapies such as the ST or Total Grips.

The only real thing for sure about Fram is that it is more expensive than the cheapies. Does its inferior looking construction hurt?
 
Originally Posted By: labman

The only real thing for sure about Fram is that it is more expensive than the cheapies. Does its inferior looking construction hurt?

It's poorly designed anti drain back valve caused cold start noises for years on my Fords. When I switched back to Motorcraft oil filters my cold start noises disappeared. And at WalMart the Motorcraft oil filters are less expensive than the "orange can" from Fram for me.

Whimsey
 
What I read, is a now pedestrian least common denominator assertion/opinion(s). Will using an el cheapo pos oil filter grenade your engine? Probably not. Will using the cheapest spec rated oil, cause your engine to fail? No. Does that mean everyone should make purchase decisions based on that thinking? Hardly.

The OP asked about flow characteristics of the P1 vs Classic, out of a concern about start up flow. Best available information says it's not an issue.

As for the, use anything it doesn't matter, assumption, I'll continue to buy/use the best constructed, efficient filter(s) I can find for the least money.
 
I have to completely agree. The P1 is not believed to be restrictive and might even be less restrictive than others. The highest efficency, best contruction at the best price is what matters to me. And that means P1.

Another thing is just because a filter is 94% efficient @ 20 microns, doesn't mean it catches much below that. Purolator stated the P1 is 97.5% eficient at 11 microns and 50% efficient at 5 microns. Less efficient filters most likely trap little below 15 microns.
 
Quote:
No one has proved to my satisfaction that using say an AMsoil Ea filter will prolong engine life over using SuperTech filter in real world use. So with that being said even less has been ofered for others like Pur0ne and K&N and M1 etc...............


I don't think any filter or oil will lengthen any service life of your engine. They may remain more functional at what they do over longer mileage spans. The EaO is somewhat unique in that it's designed to go 1 year/25k.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan

I don't think any filter or oil will lengthen any service life of your engine. They may remain more functional at what they do over longer mileage spans. The EaO is somewhat unique in that it's designed to go 1 year/25k.


I think the type of oil used contributes a bigger factor in how long an engine lasts then the oil filter contributes. If any decent filter is used it should do a good enough job of keeping harmful debris from entering the bearings, etc.

Of course the biggest factor is maintenance level. Obviously, if someone does regular oil/filter changes and uses decent products, the engine is going to last a lot longer than if not maintained well (long over due OCIs) and ultra cheap oil and filters are used.
 
Yes, it sensibly assumes a given maintenance level over a given period of time at a given service level. All things being somewhat normal and practical.

I mean, if a 70's through 80's Porsche wanted to pit for an oil change mid race (maybe 3), I'd say that it would experience no more wear or deposits than those using synthetics later on in the evolution of oils. The evolution to synthetics allowed less side effects over longer duration. It still worked out to the length of suitability in service.
 
I contend that filters do nothing to lengthen the life of a piece of equipment. They DO lengthen the service life of the lubricant! It's a subtle but important distinction. Think of it this way; which one is a necessity, and which is a luxury?

Can you run an engine with no filter, but good oil? Sure. Your engine could last some reasonable amount of time with no filter at all, but run on a decent oil. (Think of all the small engines that have no filter at all, including marine engines too). Only after the oil gets saturated to some point of condemnation would it start to degrade, and become overwhelmed by contamination, and the result would be engine damage.

Now, consider the opposite situation. How about putting on a premium filter, but running with no oil? Damage is immediate.

Filters directly affect the lifespan of oil, and oil affects the lifespan of the equipment. But filters have an INDIRRECT affect on the lifecycle of equipment.

If you change oil often enough, it's likely you'd never need a fitler. You would be removing the contaminants via oil exchange. Filtration only prolongs the life of the lubricant's useful lifecycle.

That being said, a premium filter can be made to achieve a few things, but I still believe Gary's filtration triangle theroy is fairly sound. Size, lifespan, and efficiency are inter-related; hold one characteristic constant, and the two others become inversely proportional (or nearly so). You can certainly argue that efficiency is affected by the percent of saturation (more efficient as it ages), but overall, we're debating the mundane and nearly silly.

I look at filters the same way I look at oil. If you want long service, you have to pay for upper end products. "Normal" OCIs can easily be handled by dino oil and traditional average filters. Extended OCIs call for synthetics and/or premium filtration. If you match up your products, you'll get good ROI. If you mis-match, then you're wasting money somewhere.
 
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Any quality media with a high percent of those skinny and smooth synthetic fibers in the paper's blend can provide superior flow with even better filtration than some other cheaper media--all quantities and thicknesses being equal.

An exaggerated (and poor) sketch:
blend.jpg
 
IMO....If using a quality Dino oil in an engine free of Sludge, a quality, well constructed, oil Filter can be left on the engine for a couple of normal routine oil changes. If the media on the quality filter is good at filtering oil then it will become more restrictive as time goes on by trapping more particles and contaminants in its fibers.

IMO....changing a great quality oil filter on a clean engine every time the oil is changed is unnecessary and a waste of resources and money.
 
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