If I could find a product that used an ester carrier, with enough boron to boost a 5 quart sump by 150ppm, moly by 200ppm, and zinc by 150ppm, in a 16oz can for under $7.50, I'd use it.
Lubro-Moly Anti-friction additives
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Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
If I could find a product that used an ester carrier, with enough boron to boost a 5 quart sump by 150ppm, moly by 200ppm, and zinc by 150ppm, in a 16oz can for under $7.50, I'd use it.
BG MOA is pretty close - a little lighter on the Boron than you would like, but lots of Calcium.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post903883
If I could find a product that used an ester carrier, with enough boron to boost a 5 quart sump by 150ppm, moly by 200ppm, and zinc by 150ppm, in a 16oz can for under $7.50, I'd use it.
BG MOA is pretty close - a little lighter on the Boron than you would like, but lots of Calcium.
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...true#Post903883
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Looks good but not much of a Moly boost.
I want a lot more boron than that. Calcium isn't as important, as the oils I use all have a lot of it.
This Sunday or early next week, I'm giving it a shot, weather permitting. I'm getting lazy, and moving the Aerostar into the garage takes another 10 minutes. LOL
Happy New Year guys!
Frank D
Happy New Year guys!
Frank D
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I want a lot more boron than that. Calcium isn't as important, as the oils I use all have a lot of it.
I understand.
While you may hate to mix products - a 50/50 mix of Lubro-Moly Mos2 and MotorSilk would give you a very high moly and Boron boost.
Mos2 has some boron in its package, but you could add the right amount of MotorSilk to get the the Boron levels you are seeking.
The ZDDP ( I assume this is what you want, not just Zinc) is easy, just start with an HDEO oil base, or if you really want to get crazy, add some RL Break-in additive.
Now with all three together, Mos3, Motorsilk, and RL Break In, you could have a true Frankenbrew !!
I want a lot more boron than that. Calcium isn't as important, as the oils I use all have a lot of it.
I understand.
While you may hate to mix products - a 50/50 mix of Lubro-Moly Mos2 and MotorSilk would give you a very high moly and Boron boost.
Mos2 has some boron in its package, but you could add the right amount of MotorSilk to get the the Boron levels you are seeking.
The ZDDP ( I assume this is what you want, not just Zinc) is easy, just start with an HDEO oil base, or if you really want to get crazy, add some RL Break-in additive.
Now with all three together, Mos3, Motorsilk, and RL Break In, you could have a true Frankenbrew !!
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I have about 1.5k left before next OCI on my 1.8T with GC + 15% MMO. Has anyone added Moly to oil with MMO in it?
I am going to put RTS next time, and now you guys made me think about adding Moly because for 2-3k my thermostat was sticky and engine ran relatively cold (oil T not in 190 range). So it must have caused some wear on the engine , I guess?
Would I see any benefits running Moly/MotorSilk (50:50) in my current GC/MMO mixture for 2k before OCI?
I am going to put RTS next time, and now you guys made me think about adding Moly because for 2-3k my thermostat was sticky and engine ran relatively cold (oil T not in 190 range). So it must have caused some wear on the engine , I guess?
Would I see any benefits running Moly/MotorSilk (50:50) in my current GC/MMO mixture for 2k before OCI?
Originally Posted By: Nik
I have about 1.5k left before next OCI on my 1.8T with GC + 15% MMO. Has anyone added Moly to oil with MMO in it?
I am going to put RTS next time, and now you guys made me think about adding Moly because for 2-3k my thermostat was sticky and engine ran relatively cold (oil T not in 190 range). So it must have caused some wear on the engine , I guess?
Would I see any benefits running Moly/MotorSilk (50:50) in my current GC/MMO mixture for 2k before OCI?
I asked Rich Kelley over at MMO about using Moly with MMO and he said it would be fine.
I have about 1.5k left before next OCI on my 1.8T with GC + 15% MMO. Has anyone added Moly to oil with MMO in it?
I am going to put RTS next time, and now you guys made me think about adding Moly because for 2-3k my thermostat was sticky and engine ran relatively cold (oil T not in 190 range). So it must have caused some wear on the engine , I guess?
Would I see any benefits running Moly/MotorSilk (50:50) in my current GC/MMO mixture for 2k before OCI?
I asked Rich Kelley over at MMO about using Moly with MMO and he said it would be fine.
Good lord, such a long thread about such a simple product???
Just go to advanced auto parts, and buy a can for ~$6 and pour it in. 50ml/quart, and so one 300ml can will treat a standard 5qt fill.
If it does anything positive for you, you'll notice it pretty quick; because this product is not snake oil like ARX. The main effect in my experience is somewhat better cold starting.
Unlike adding functional amounts of MMO or Lucas Oil stabilizer, Lubromoly MoS2 will not change the bulk properties of the oil. E.g it won't make it thicker/thinner or stickier.
The colloidal MoS2 stays dispersed, and gradually gets plated onto any points of high friction over time, just like it is supposed to.
A simple product, and not one meriting so much discussion.
Just go to advanced auto parts, and buy a can for ~$6 and pour it in. 50ml/quart, and so one 300ml can will treat a standard 5qt fill.
If it does anything positive for you, you'll notice it pretty quick; because this product is not snake oil like ARX. The main effect in my experience is somewhat better cold starting.
Unlike adding functional amounts of MMO or Lucas Oil stabilizer, Lubromoly MoS2 will not change the bulk properties of the oil. E.g it won't make it thicker/thinner or stickier.
The colloidal MoS2 stays dispersed, and gradually gets plated onto any points of high friction over time, just like it is supposed to.
A simple product, and not one meriting so much discussion.
Good to know. As far as discussion, as with any additive they are sometimes questioned, or attacked. Then there are members who are truly interested in getting information. One such question that keeps popping up with MoS2 is its effect on yellow metals. All my reading has led me to believe it could be a problem in a diesel engine, but the product is fine in a gas engine.
Discussion and asking questions is how people learn here. Thanks for sharing your information on this product! Weather permitting I try it Sunday or Monday.
Happy New Year!
Discussion and asking questions is how people learn here. Thanks for sharing your information on this product! Weather permitting I try it Sunday or Monday.
Happy New Year!
Originally Posted By: ionbeam22
If it does anything positive for you, you'll notice it pretty quick; because this product is not snake oil like ARX.
Nice ignorant troll-ish comment. Just another person who has never used the product, talking trash about it.
If it does anything positive for you, you'll notice it pretty quick; because this product is not snake oil like ARX.
Nice ignorant troll-ish comment. Just another person who has never used the product, talking trash about it.
Originally Posted By: ionbeam22
A simple product, and not one meriting so much discussion.
And why not??? isnt that what this site is all about???
A simple product, and not one meriting so much discussion.
And why not??? isnt that what this site is all about???
Originally Posted By: c3po
Originally Posted By: Nik
I have about 1.5k left before next OCI on my 1.8T with GC + 15% MMO. Has anyone added Moly to oil with MMO in it?
I am going to put RTS next time, and now you guys made me think about adding Moly because for 2-3k my thermostat was sticky and engine ran relatively cold (oil T not in 190 range). So it must have caused some wear on the engine , I guess?
Would I see any benefits running Moly/MotorSilk (50:50) in my current GC/MMO mixture for 2k before OCI?
I asked Rich Kelley over at MMO about using Moly with MMO and he said it would be fine.
I use it with MMO, it works quite well. My oil looks like poop though
I did notice my PureOne filter got (plugged?) up after about 100 miles due to the oil light staying on for about 5 seconds after startup (never has happened with a PureOne (and I tested the ADBV twice before installation)
Originally Posted By: Nik
I have about 1.5k left before next OCI on my 1.8T with GC + 15% MMO. Has anyone added Moly to oil with MMO in it?
I am going to put RTS next time, and now you guys made me think about adding Moly because for 2-3k my thermostat was sticky and engine ran relatively cold (oil T not in 190 range). So it must have caused some wear on the engine , I guess?
Would I see any benefits running Moly/MotorSilk (50:50) in my current GC/MMO mixture for 2k before OCI?
I asked Rich Kelley over at MMO about using Moly with MMO and he said it would be fine.
I use it with MMO, it works quite well. My oil looks like poop though
I did notice my PureOne filter got (plugged?) up after about 100 miles due to the oil light staying on for about 5 seconds after startup (never has happened with a PureOne (and I tested the ADBV twice before installation)
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Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
I stopped at NAPA and bought 3 cans of the stuff since it was only $4.29 each. When I got home, I popped the oil cap off and poured a full can of it into the sump of my car (while running), and I was extremely surprised that my engine immediately seemed quieter, even before the entire can was poured in
I went ahead and put in a can of this stuff tonite after I read a VOA on Amsoil 0W-20 which I am using in my Mercury Marauder and I found out it only has 2.2 Moly. I took the car on a 40 mile drive and noticed that the oil pressure was slightly higher and the engine seemed quieter. I also noticed that the acceleration felt different, kind of like the engine was not working as hard. I have this steep hill on this country road on the way to Interstate 70 that I usually go about 60 m.p.h. Going up the same hill tonite I was doing about 65 m.p.h. I am going to have to watch my speed, becuase when I thought I was doing 50 m.p.h. I was actually doing 60 m.p.h. and this was past that steep hill.
After I was home for an hour I checked my dipstick and the oil level was a tad above the full mark, there was no difference in oil color, maybe its becuase I have over 3000 miles on this OCI or maybe I need to check the oil again in a few days.
I also got a PM from a member today who told me he picked up almost 2 m.p.g. by going from Pennzoil Platinum to Schaeffer's 7000 Series Oil, from what I read in the Virgin UOA Section was that Pennzoil Platinum has a Moly reading of 53 and Schaeffer's 7000 has a Moly reading of about 200 Moly or so.
I will see how the car starts tommorow morning, its getting down in the teens tonite, its already starting fine with the Amsoil 0W-20 and MMO in there now.
I gassed up the car tonite so I will see what happens with my mileage readings, I spent $4.80 for this bottle of Lubr-Moly and I can definetly feel that its working.
I want to thank Demarpaint for turning me onto this product and chevrofreak's post had me thinking well if he added it and is getting results why don't I give it a try now instead of waiting until my next OCI.
I stopped at NAPA and bought 3 cans of the stuff since it was only $4.29 each. When I got home, I popped the oil cap off and poured a full can of it into the sump of my car (while running), and I was extremely surprised that my engine immediately seemed quieter, even before the entire can was poured in
I went ahead and put in a can of this stuff tonite after I read a VOA on Amsoil 0W-20 which I am using in my Mercury Marauder and I found out it only has 2.2 Moly. I took the car on a 40 mile drive and noticed that the oil pressure was slightly higher and the engine seemed quieter. I also noticed that the acceleration felt different, kind of like the engine was not working as hard. I have this steep hill on this country road on the way to Interstate 70 that I usually go about 60 m.p.h. Going up the same hill tonite I was doing about 65 m.p.h. I am going to have to watch my speed, becuase when I thought I was doing 50 m.p.h. I was actually doing 60 m.p.h. and this was past that steep hill.
After I was home for an hour I checked my dipstick and the oil level was a tad above the full mark, there was no difference in oil color, maybe its becuase I have over 3000 miles on this OCI or maybe I need to check the oil again in a few days.
I also got a PM from a member today who told me he picked up almost 2 m.p.g. by going from Pennzoil Platinum to Schaeffer's 7000 Series Oil, from what I read in the Virgin UOA Section was that Pennzoil Platinum has a Moly reading of 53 and Schaeffer's 7000 has a Moly reading of about 200 Moly or so.
I will see how the car starts tommorow morning, its getting down in the teens tonite, its already starting fine with the Amsoil 0W-20 and MMO in there now.
I gassed up the car tonite so I will see what happens with my mileage readings, I spent $4.80 for this bottle of Lubr-Moly and I can definetly feel that its working.
I want to thank Demarpaint for turning me onto this product and chevrofreak's post had me thinking well if he added it and is getting results why don't I give it a try now instead of waiting until my next OCI.
I was going to try it today, the Aerostar is due for an OC. Problem is the snow blower is apart in the garage, in front of the Jeep and I don't feel like moving things around. Outside is 22*F with wind blowing to 40 mph. The slinging oil might just act like an undercoat job, but I think I'll pass.
Correction 19*F with winds blowing to 50 mph. I think I'll stay inside by the fire.
I am 125 miles into having this Lubro-Moly in the engine and the oil color is still the same, no grey color on the dipstick.
If there is no color on the dipstick then what does that mean, could I have a really clean engine and the Lubro-Moly is just coating the internal parts of the engine.
If there is no color on the dipstick then what does that mean, could I have a really clean engine and the Lubro-Moly is just coating the internal parts of the engine.
Originally Posted By: c3po
I am 125 miles into having this Lubro-Moly in the engine and the oil color is still the same, no grey color on the dipstick.
If there is no color on the dipstick then what does that mean, could I have a really clean engine and the Lubro-Moly is just coating the internal parts of the engine.
Why don't you pull the valve covers to see if it's working????
I am 125 miles into having this Lubro-Moly in the engine and the oil color is still the same, no grey color on the dipstick.
If there is no color on the dipstick then what does that mean, could I have a really clean engine and the Lubro-Moly is just coating the internal parts of the engine.
Why don't you pull the valve covers to see if it's working????
Originally Posted By: BoiseRob
Originally Posted By: c3po
I am 125 miles into having this Lubro-Moly in the engine and the oil color is still the same, no grey color on the dipstick.
If there is no color on the dipstick then what does that mean, could I have a really clean engine and the Lubro-Moly is just coating the internal parts of the engine.
Why don't you pull the valve covers to see if it's working????
I can't imagine any way to discern whether it's working, since he only added it 125 miles ago.
Originally Posted By: c3po
I am 125 miles into having this Lubro-Moly in the engine and the oil color is still the same, no grey color on the dipstick.
If there is no color on the dipstick then what does that mean, could I have a really clean engine and the Lubro-Moly is just coating the internal parts of the engine.
Why don't you pull the valve covers to see if it's working????
I can't imagine any way to discern whether it's working, since he only added it 125 miles ago.
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
The oil has just shy of 3,000 on it right now (it's 5 quarts Quaker State Horse Power 5W-20, with 2 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife 5W-20 as top-off). It was pretty brown before adding this stuff, so the color difference isn't as drastic as it was in the fresh oil. It is slightly more green/gray than it was before adding it, but not by much.
This the reason I asked about the color of the oil since chevrofreak noticed a slight color change.
The oil has just shy of 3,000 on it right now (it's 5 quarts Quaker State Horse Power 5W-20, with 2 quarts of Valvoline Maxlife 5W-20 as top-off). It was pretty brown before adding this stuff, so the color difference isn't as drastic as it was in the fresh oil. It is slightly more green/gray than it was before adding it, but not by much.
This the reason I asked about the color of the oil since chevrofreak noticed a slight color change.
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