Ford 6.0l Diesel 2003

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Cloverdale BC
Ford 6.0l Diesel. 157262 total km's
8699 km on Redline 15w40.



iron................17
chromium............ 1
nickel.............. 1
aluminum............ 4
lead................ 4
copper.............. 2
tin.................1
silver............. titanium............ silicon............. 9
boron..............36
sodium.............. 13
potassium..........1
moly...............16
phosphorous.......986
zinc..............1184
calcium...........1997
barium............. magnesium...........156
antimony........... vanadium............ fuel %vol........... soot...........3
water %vol......... vis cs 100`c....... 12.2
V40.................79.5
Oxidation............133
Nitration............10
Sul...................117
 
Additive levels are lower that I thought they'd be, and it sheared a lot more than I thought it would. Expensive oil to only run 8600km......
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Additive levels are lower that I thought they'd be, and it sheared a lot more than I thought it would. Expensive oil to only run 8600km......
+1 the adds look low.
 
Ford 6.0l Diesel. 157262 total km's
8699 km on Redline 15w40.


RL 15w40 Delvac1 5w40 CJ4 (8452km)
iron................17 18
chromium............ 1 1
nickel.............. 1 1
aluminum............ 4 1
lead................ 4 4
copper.............. 2 2
tin.................1 0
silver............. titanium............ silicon............. 9 5
boron..............36 45
sodium.............. 13 2
potassium..........1 1
moly...............16 1
phosphorous.......986 1016
zinc..............1184 1212
calcium...........1997 1524
barium............. magnesium...........156 638
antimony........... vanadium............ fuel %vol........... soot...........3 3
water %vol......... vis cs 100`c....... 12.2 10.7
V40.................79.5 67.2
Oxidation............133 14
Nitration............10 9
Sul...................117 17
 
This should be better reading for Delvac1 5w40 CJ4 (8452km)

I think I would run it longer but the shearing bugs me.

iron................ 18
chromium............ 1
nickel.............. 1
aluminum............ 1
lead................ 4
copper.............. 2
tin................. 0
silver............. titanium............< 0
silicon............. 5
boron.............. 45
sodium.............. 2
potassium.......... 1
moly............... 1
phosphorous....... 1016
zinc.............. 1212
calcium........... 1524
barium.............< 0
magnesium........... 638
antimony...........< 0
vanadium............< 2
fuel %vol...........< 0
soot........... 3
water %vol.........< 0
vis cs 100`c....... 10.7
V40................. 67.2
Oxidation............ 14
Nitration............ 9
Sul................... 17
 
There is nothing alarming, but nothing to get excited over, either.

I want to broach a related subject, but I don't mean to offend you, so please take this with a note of sincerity, and not disrespect.

For that kind of money (be it RL or Delvac 1) I would want a much longer OCI. If you can't (or won't) do that, then just run a quality dino of your choice. I have seen many dino fluids turn in numbers like that in a 6.0L; the synthetic expense isn't worth it unless you extend the OCI. It's not like extreme temps are in issue in your area.


Here is a suggestion: run a 10w-30 HDEO dino oil. Here is why I suggest that:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1128786&page=1

I posted that UOA for my neighbor's 6.0L PSD. Look at the numbers. The wear metals and viscosity are right in line with your ultra expensive RL and Delvac 1. Why spend 4x the money for the same wear and viscosity results?

Also, and I've mentioned this many times before, the HEUI systems do shear oil for sure. But only down to a certain level, and then it levels out. You ran 40 grades that sheared down to near 30 grade. The 30 grade he ran stayed in grade! I believe the HEUI systems just naturally like, and perform well with, a 30 grade. If you don't feed it to them, they will make it themselves!

I ran the same Rotella 10w-30 in my Dmax and got excellent wear, even though I pull heavy loads in the heat of summer. My sample thickened up a bit, but that is likely because of EGR and evaporation. Still, wear was excellent. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1632643&page=1

Look at your UOA and these two I posted. Did you get 4x better wear protection? No. Did you utilize it for 4x longer duration? No.

Are synethics "better"? In your case - No. It's not that your UOA is bad; in no way do I mean to infer that. It's just evident to me that your UOA is not any "better" than mine, or my neighbors, but you spent a lot more money for the same results.
 
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dnewton3, I've been here long enough know to know who is contributing their knowledge and expertise on here and you are one of those people, thanks for the input and no offense taken.

I used to use the dino's 10w30 and 15w40 but my engine always ran like [censored], but there were a host of warranty related problems that may or may not have contributed to this. I started using the synthetic 5w40 more than anything and it helped the engine idle a lot better.

I haven't had the regular oil back in it since I've had some major work done, at a place that actually fixed the problems instead of giving me a band aid solution like the dealer had been doing.

I think my next oil change I will go back to the 10w30 and see what transpires.

We have a centrifuge system on a big cat, the base is 210 liters, it runs on regular oil and we have extended the OCI, by a little over 4x the recommended oil change.

I do see your point.
 
The add package is not a whole bunch lower!!! Redline usually has high add levels. I guess Redline is selling us out!!!
 
I like to run shell rotella 5w-40 synthetic in the 6.0L excursion simply for one reason. Cold starting. With the latest software flash, ford really did get it right. They hold the injector coils on while the glowplugs are preheating, this will heat the injector body to allow better oil flow, which aids in starting and cold acceleration. However 15w-40 is just too thick in my opinion to run in the cold. Even the big cats and internationals have a complete dead pedal upon startup. Synthetic virually eliminates this. So regardless of the length of the OCI, it is well worth it for other reasons.

Yes the HEUI likes to shear everything, however the factory fill 10w-30 was sheared down to a 10wt. It was a CI4 rating though, not CI4+. I am unable to source 10w-30 diesel rated oil locally.
 
The Redline cost me $11.90 Cdn per quart. The Delvac1 is $7.60 a quart.

I wasn't all that impressed with the Redline numbers, but I will say out of 8 samples it did shear the least.
 
Nearly $12cdn/qrt? Yikes!

If you feel compelled to run synthetic, perhaps give RTS a try, if you can find it in your area; it's about the least expensive option for synthetic. I know there are some quality Canadian brands as well, such as Esso, etc; check out their offerings. Even the Delvac 1 would be preferrable to the cost of RL. That is crazy expensive!

You could run dino HDEO for around $3/qrt retail pricing (or less). The average temps in your are are very mild. Lows in the low 30's for winter, highs in the 70's for summer. I don't see why 15w-40 isn't working for you??? I can't imagine why you need a synthetic. You shouldn't be getting a lot of cold romp in lower BC. In fact, given the mild temps, I really see the dino 10w-30 being well suited. I highly suspect you could get decent cold start performance out of a 10w-30 dino; I know my neighbor does, and it often gets down to around zero deg F in our area. I know you said you've tried dino, but perhaps it's time to go back to back and try it again. Perhaps your perception of how well RL performs is askew? Sometimes, we humans try to justify our purchases with rationalization, rather than objective data. I'm not trying to pick on you, but I am around lots of PSD 7.3L and 6.0L engines in my farming community; I perceieve very little gain comparing a 10w-30 dino to a 5w-40 synethic, especially in moderate temps.

Regardless, you have to satisfy yourself, and not us. If you are happy, then I'd say stick with your plan. The UOA shows your PSD to be wearing decently; it's just costing you a lot more to do so.
 
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The Delo 5w-40 would likely perform as well at wear protection as the RL. And at half the cost? That is where my money would go!
 
If I may throw in a few things:

1. If this was your first fill with Redline, metal readings may normalize with the 2. or 3. fill.

2. How much of the old oil is left in an HEUI equipped engine when changing oil, 3 or so qt.? This might explain why your V100C is 12.2. The Redline didn't shear that much, but rather it was diluted with the old, sheared, 30 weight left from the previous oil fill. Again, that should be a lesser concern after the second OC with Redline.

3. How can people on here keep on judging engine wear based on single pass UOA without even knowing the PQ-index?

4. Whether the engine sheared the Redline oil or not, what is it that makes it unable to go a little further? If the engine will shear any oil into the SAE 30 range within 5000 km, it can very well "survive" an additional 8.000 km with the sheared oil.

5. I would say you should keep on using Redline. Do an UOA at 8.000 - 10.000 km and maybe 15.000 including TBN & TAN to see how the oil really works and what the limiting factor is (or factors are). A PQ index is appreciated too. If the oil can maintain a 40 weight viscosity for >15.000 km and acidity is not a concern, then Redline might be a cost efficient solution for you.
 
Originally Posted By: Extreme-Duty
3. How can people on here keep on judging engine wear based on single pass UOA without even knowing the PQ-index?


Very good question...
 
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