Royal Purple Oil Experience - 2005 Mustang GT

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Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: 2k05gt

conservative intervals? why is changing at 5000 miles to early? I beat this car hard, I drive it like I stole it.. 70K and 3 set of tires, One Transmission and 2 sets of drag radials

The Info I read was this...


I totally agree with something: That is a NICE CAR!

Sure, 5K with synthetic oil, even in your hard driven engine is not a "long" interval. It's not as if your engine is a true race engine. It's a street engine with mods, driven hard. 10K might be pushing it. For SURE - Next 5K UOA on RP, please do a UOA.

What happened to the tranny?


the 5R55S Auto Trans is not real strong and I lost one of the Servos and then the selonoid pack went, that caused excessive Band Wear, this all could have been due to the TCI Super Street Fighter 3500 Converter I put in may have been bad.

I have planned on doing the Oil Test next month. A friend did his a few months ago and we would like to compair results..

His was with Mobil 1
http://www.s197-mustang.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=36&d=1239665916

His sample showed high ammounts of Lead and Copper. An indication, according to Blackstone, of excess bearing wear.
 
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Originally Posted By: Pablo
Strangest thing about marketing claims. RP was actually reprimanded for MPG and HP claims. Amsoil wasn't. Interesting. I'm just saying ALL oil companies make and do "stretched" claims. Not sure why you would think RP doesn't.


1 - Amsoil does not make HP and or MPG claims so how would they get caught at it? Amsoil focuses on the extended OCI to market their product for the most part. RP used comments from third parties in their marketing about their product and were taken to task for it. I personally see no harm there but if it was wrong so be it. That is all it was however. Wasn't some big deal. RP's marketing "gimmick" was the MPG and HP gains. Neither is totally false either as it is well documented you can see HP and MPG gains with their products. They were taken to task by nit picking. It was nothing super huge and overly blatant.

2 - Where did I say RP hadn't made any bogus claims? I said not to listen to Amsoil when you want info on another product - ANY brand not RP specific. I did say I also feel they are not always honest about their own products either. Amsoil has a history of making "questionable" claims about both their products and the competition. Amsoil should spend more time telling the truth about their own products, which are very good, and less time trying to tell us all how inferior everything else is. I went out of my way to mention I think their product is good to be fair. Something so many on this site never do.

3 - Botom line is Amsoil has a history of false and misleading statements and that Moly article the guy posted is a very good example. It is the only reason I brought that up. Someone else posted it and I explained. I didn't trash their products doing it either.

Be careful throwing stones inside a glass house Pablo. You represent a very unethical company. You personally are a good guy from what I have seen but please spare me implying Amsoil is somehow a more ethical company than RP. That is truly laughable.
 
Originally Posted By: wolfc70
Many here are not a big fan of RP due to cost and it does not hold up that well under long drain conditions...you may want to move up to Redline or Amsoil's racing oils (RD20, RD30) to provide better protection under the longer stress intervals.


That is another one of these comments/myths about RP so many talk about on this site that just doesn't stand up to the sniff meter. RP will do 10K-15K OCI's in a healthy engine. Possibly longer although the company claims 12K is how long it is designed to run. It is not designed to go 25K and a year like some oil companies claim their product will but 10K+ is still an extended drain. I wouldn't run an oil, any oil, past 10K without UOA to verify it is still good even if the mfg said it was good for 25K. RP will go 10K with no sweat however in a healthy engine where it isn't degraded by other factors unrelated to normal oil wear and tear.

I have actually run RP 10K-15K and it held up fine( filter changed every 5K ). I actually had a UOA done on RP with 12K on it in a 383 MOPAR. I don't have it anymore( sorry it went with the car when I sold it )but the oil was still able to go longer and was in good shape. I have had friends do UOA's with it at 10K+ and it has always done fine. Not sure how you came to the conclusion it is not suited to longer drain intervals? No offense meant by this just disagree with your comment based on actual personal experience with extended OCI's with RP.
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI

3 - Botom line is Amsoil has a history of false and misleading statements and that Moly article the guy posted is a very good example. It is the only reason I brought that up. Someone else posted it and I explained. I didn't trash their products doing it either.

Be careful throwing stones inside a glass house Pablo. You represent a very unethical company


That "article" was not actually written by Amsoil. In YOUR opinion they are unethical, but you actually can't back up your opinion with facts. OTOH, RP made false and misleading HP and MPG statements, yet you would never claim them to be "unethical". That makes zero sense.
 
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3 - Botom line is Amsoil has a history of false and misleading statements and that Moly article the guy posted is a very good example. It is the only reason I brought that up. Someone else posted it and I explained. I didn't trash their products doing it either.


True. I think Amsoil has cleaned up their act over the last few years.
 
"4 ball wear test" always good for a laugh
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Not hating on amsoil pabs!
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It would be funny no matter what oil company used it.
 
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Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
"4 ball wear test" always good for a laugh
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Laughing at an ASTM test seems weird. Why not laugh at the bearing/one arm load test used by RP? (and several others!)
 
Originally Posted By: 2k05gt
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: 2k05gt

conservative intervals? why is changing at 5000 miles to early? I beat this car hard, I drive it like I stole it.. 70K and 3 set of tires, One Transmission and 2 sets of drag radials

The Info I read was this...


I totally agree with something: That is a NICE CAR!

Sure, 5K with synthetic oil, even in your hard driven engine is not a "long" interval. It's not as if your engine is a true race engine. It's a street engine with mods, driven hard. 10K might be pushing it. For SURE - Next 5K UOA on RP, please do a UOA.

What happened to the tranny?


the 5R55S Auto Trans is not real strong and I lost one of the Servos and then the selonoid pack went, that caused excessive Band Wear, this all could have been due to the TCI Super Street Fighter 3500 Converter I put in may have been bad.

I have planned on doing the Oil Test next month. A friend did his a few months ago and we would like to compair results..

His was with Mobil 1
http://www.s197-mustang.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=36&d=1239665916

His sample showed high ammounts of Lead and Copper. An indication, according to Blackstone, of excess bearing wear.


Except the Modular engines don't have lead OR copper in their bearings. So Blackstone is on crack. They have bi-metal bearings in them.

Originally Posted By: Clevite
Clevite BiMetal engine bearings feature a 100% lead free aluminum silicon bi-metal material; this includes 60% more silicon than leading competitor's bi-metal material for better conditioning of journal surfaces. These BiMetal bearings also offer greater wear resistance than leading competitor's bi-metal material, as well as greater seizure resistance than the leading competitor. Clevite BiMetal bearings feature 100% bored ID's for precision and surface characteristics and where appropriate - straight shell main bearings utilizing an "umbrella" groove that allows for superior oil control and improved pressure.
 
Its a ridiculous test man. Yeah both are completly hi-larious!!! I like amsoil for the most part, but enough with the 4 ball wear test. Its lame and doesnt simulate at all "real world conditions".
 
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
Its a ridiculous test man. Yeah both are completly hi-larious!!! I like amsoil for the most part, but enough with the 4 ball wear test. Its lame and doesnt simulate at all "real world conditions".


Their marketing department will only be honest enough to avoid significant negative attention. Other companies have similar ethics, so they are not the only ones. Simmer down Pabby, I think they make decent oil.
 
What is the Nulon Oil used in this test?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y

Or this Eneos Oil in this Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eDc3msmXDo

What do you know about Motul Oil? Are they Good?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL6rwuizjhA&feature=fvw

I am not sure what Tests everyone is talking about Ball test Mot matines Whatever
I learned about Royal Purple from the Speed Channel here is the episode I watched
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZxiDsL36jA&feature=related


What are all these synthetics on the market that Claim More HP, are they accurate?
Remember that I do not care about Extended Drain Oil, I want the Best Protection for my Engine under Drag Racing condidtions and well as DC Bumper to Bumper Traffic.
 
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What Oil should I use in the Differential..

I replaced the Stock Clutch pack design with the Eaton True Trac Detroit Locker. I called the Eaton Service Dept. and they said DO NOT USE Synthetic Oils I must use Dino Oil because of Shearing.. They Said that Synthetics have Poor Shearing characteristics. I Mentioned Royal Purple Gear Lube. They told me that Royal Purple is the only synth lube that had good shear stability but would only warrenty their product with pure dino lube. Any thoughts on this
 
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Seems like drag racing would not be as hard on an engine and oil as road racing. Although in drag racing you are at full throttle, the engine is excellerating and it's for a very short run and the oil shouldn't get that hot. Seems like you want a light racing oil like Mobil 1 0W-20 or 0W-30 race oil for maximum horsepower. Those Mobil 1 race oils have twice as much phosphorus so they might not be "cat friendly" and best for everyday driving. I think If I had a V8 that called for 20wt, I wouldn't hesistate to drag race with a Mobil 1 SM 0W20.
 
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Royal Purple killed my father, and raped my mother.

I see no problem with their products. Lots of drag racers and circle track guys around here use Royal Purple or Lucas. So far I have not seen either cause an engine failure. They may not be walk on water lubes, but they work for most people that use them.
 
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Originally Posted By: 2k05gt
What is the Nulon Oil used in this test?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y

Or this Eneos Oil in this Video
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2eDc3msmXDo

What do you know about Motul Oil? Are they Good?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wL6rwuizjhA&feature=fvw

I am not sure what Tests everyone is talking about Ball test Mot matines Whatever
I learned about Royal Purple from the Speed Channel here is the episode I watched
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iZxiDsL36jA&feature=related


What are all these synthetics on the market that Claim More HP, are they accurate?
Remember that I do not care about Extended Drain Oil, I want the Best Protection for my Engine under Drag Racing condidtions and well as DC Bumper to Bumper Traffic.

All claims of increased horsepower and MPG based on back-to-back dyno runs on a single car are pretty much meaningless. You need a lot of vehicles in a properly controlled trial to demonstrate a difference like that with any degree of certainty.

Dunno about Nulon.

Eneos is good, but not widely available here in the US. Probably not worth the trouble/price.

Motul is great, but it had better be -- it's REALLY expensive. I really think their 300V series (probably the 0w-20 or 5w-30) would be ideal for you if you're willing to fork over the dough: it is well suited to 5,000 mile OCIs in a clean-running engine, and is one of the stoutest oils you can buy -- it's used by professional race teams straight out of the can.
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Be careful throwing stones inside a glass house Pablo. You represent a very unethical company.

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Oh no, everybody run! The NOACK score chart will steal your children!
 
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