Just found some in my building.I used it in a 89' f-150 .the truck leaked after a while.Not saying it caused it.Wondering if I should use it in lawn moers,or supplement my bar and hain oil with it or just give it away.Don't think I'll use it in my beater F-150 I have now.Am' I wrong not to want to use it?I did a search here there are some conflicting ideas concrning it.Thanks
Lucas Oil Stabilizer
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I like using LOS, but only the synthetic version.
Most BITOGers believe LOS is the epitome of "snake oil" simply because they cannot see precisely what's in it from a VOA.
It's an oil thickener plus a tackifier. I'm not fond of the thickening, but I do like the tackifier which helps it cling to engine surfaces and stay on top of the motor. I like how my vehicles run with it.
Most BITOGers believe LOS is the epitome of "snake oil" simply because they cannot see precisely what's in it from a VOA.
It's an oil thickener plus a tackifier. I'm not fond of the thickening, but I do like the tackifier which helps it cling to engine surfaces and stay on top of the motor. I like how my vehicles run with it.
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well, I had a very ****** experience with Lucastransmission additive in my MT; the stuff is freaking THICK and in cold weather it won't even shift into 2nd gear. I drained that turd out, and put ATF 3 (thinner than 75w90) and it works like a charm in the winter.
Anyways, that was my 1st and last experience with Lucas products. (BTW, Anyone in the Portland area want a free almost full bottle of Lucas transmission additive?)
Anyways, that was my 1st and last experience with Lucas products. (BTW, Anyone in the Portland area want a free almost full bottle of Lucas transmission additive?)
Does your oil need to be stabilized? Tell me, what is stabilized oil?
Forget about the Lucas stuff. There is no way any of us can home-brew better oil than the oil company chemists can formulate for any specific price point. If you want better oil, buy better oil. Don't waste your money trying to do it yourself.
Forget about the Lucas stuff. There is no way any of us can home-brew better oil than the oil company chemists can formulate for any specific price point. If you want better oil, buy better oil. Don't waste your money trying to do it yourself.
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There is no way any of us can home-brew better oil than the oil company chemists can formulate for any specific price point. If you want better oil, buy better oil. Don't waste your money trying to do it yourself.
Ken, your thinking makes sense if you get pick your own oil; sometimes, I change my own oil; when I don't I go to a place (usually Firestone) to have it changed and have little say in what goes inside--i.e., my car usually gets Kendall (Conoco) oil, which is excellent stuff, but a tad bit weak with zinc and additives.
Furthermore, even the modern grade of oil is off for older cars. 5w30 is commonly used nowadays, and that is only marginally acceptabe at best (the car's user manual specifically advises against going that thin in the summer). So, if I were to change my oil in the summer, I'd ask them to not top if off and be a quart short, and I'll add a quart of hi additive 15w40 plus some moly and STP or some such. So, I brew my own additive amendment to add for a couple bucks. Easy, cheap, and no dirty hands, and no mess spilling oil on my driveway.
There is no way any of us can home-brew better oil than the oil company chemists can formulate for any specific price point. If you want better oil, buy better oil. Don't waste your money trying to do it yourself.
Ken, your thinking makes sense if you get pick your own oil; sometimes, I change my own oil; when I don't I go to a place (usually Firestone) to have it changed and have little say in what goes inside--i.e., my car usually gets Kendall (Conoco) oil, which is excellent stuff, but a tad bit weak with zinc and additives.
Furthermore, even the modern grade of oil is off for older cars. 5w30 is commonly used nowadays, and that is only marginally acceptabe at best (the car's user manual specifically advises against going that thin in the summer). So, if I were to change my oil in the summer, I'd ask them to not top if off and be a quart short, and I'll add a quart of hi additive 15w40 plus some moly and STP or some such. So, I brew my own additive amendment to add for a couple bucks. Easy, cheap, and no dirty hands, and no mess spilling oil on my driveway.
I never realized my oil was unstable!
Lucas may not get so much flack over this product if they'd change the name for it, to something like "Lucas Oil Snot", because that's what it is. I like it (the product, that is).
Lucas Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer has a viscosity of 110 cSt @ 100 C. Thicker than the thickest gear oils, even ones used on OPEN gears!!
The MSDS says it's "residual oil". That's what the Navy used to burn in warships before they switched to distillate, but it has to be preheated to flow. The used to pay a few pennies a gallon for it "#6 Bunker Residual Fuel".
I've said before: I would only use that stuff if I had a noisy bad rod bearing and was far from home or a competent repair facility, and just to get there in one piece. Otherwise, you're doing your engine a disfavor.
Charlie
The MSDS says it's "residual oil". That's what the Navy used to burn in warships before they switched to distillate, but it has to be preheated to flow. The used to pay a few pennies a gallon for it "#6 Bunker Residual Fuel".
I've said before: I would only use that stuff if I had a noisy bad rod bearing and was far from home or a competent repair facility, and just to get there in one piece. Otherwise, you're doing your engine a disfavor.
Charlie
It is what it is, It's a combination of thick base oils and tackifier additives. It's ment for older worn engines which would benefit from a more persistant and thicker oil film.
It's not supposed to be used straight, and the synthetic oil stabilizer is a different formulation made with thinner base stocks.
The raw viscosity of the LOS is not so important, since its going to be diluted to a 20% fill when used according to the directions.
Transmission additives in general are a questionable concept, and doubly so for any Chrysler transmission which should use ATF+4 only.
For myself, the only oil addive I use for a complete fill is Lubro Moly MoS2 anti-friction, which I think improves cold start performance in the winter time, while not changing the bulk properties of my engine oil (Valvoline Synthetic 5-30).
It's not supposed to be used straight, and the synthetic oil stabilizer is a different formulation made with thinner base stocks.
The raw viscosity of the LOS is not so important, since its going to be diluted to a 20% fill when used according to the directions.
Transmission additives in general are a questionable concept, and doubly so for any Chrysler transmission which should use ATF+4 only.
For myself, the only oil addive I use for a complete fill is Lubro Moly MoS2 anti-friction, which I think improves cold start performance in the winter time, while not changing the bulk properties of my engine oil (Valvoline Synthetic 5-30).
My ford has 247K .Runs real good.I use YB 10W-30.When I purchased the thing back in March AAP had that with filter on sale.After 1500 miles since oil change the oil has moved about 1/4 inch on dipstick .Not to bad.Been real happy with my $1100 purchase.So I have considered using the Lucas .But as I remember from other F-150 it started to leak.I'm not blaming Lucas ,but not sure if it helped any either.Think I may use it as a bar and chain oil supplement.Or if any you guys wanna pay shipping it's yours.Also it's probly about 6-7 years old.Thanks for input.
If you have an engine that burns oil, Lucas is good stuff. If your engine is in good working order, I would stay away from it. You either love it or hate it.
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Agreed,Boss.
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