Which, B12 Chemtool or Seafoam as an engine flush?

[lipadj46]

Which B12 chemtool do you use as a solvent flush, this one?

B-12 CHEMTOOL CARBURETOR FUEL INJECTOR AND FUEL SYSTEM CLEANER

Also how does this compare to using Seafoam? I just want to finish cleaning things up a but after some engine work and I have some bulk oil in there now that I will be dumping in 1000 miles or so.

 

[Hethaerto]

This is the best engine flush I've ever used.

I ran the engine @ 2k RPM for 30 minutes, then changed the oil. Did a nice job.

Amsoil Engine Flush

 

[DieselTech]

Did you open the engine afterward?

 

[HTSS_TR]

B-12 Chemtool Oil System Cleaner part# 4015. This is used in engine crankcase.

 

[Hethaerto]

Originally Posted By: DieselTech
Did you open the engine afterward?



Uh oh, you want me to provide "proof" to you, too?

No proof, other than the engine shot from 2k RPM to 3.5K RPM (and climbing) after ten minutes meaning that some serious sludge had been freed from some important places throughout the engine. At least, that's what I figured was happening.

I had to readjust the throttle to get it back down to 2K RPM, and let it run for another 20 minutes.

 

[lipadj46]

Originally Posted By: HTSS_TR
B-12 Chemtool Oil System Cleaner part# 4015. This is used in engine crankcase.


Great thx. I did not see that one on the shelves around here.

 

[ionbeam22]

A few years ago the Berryman company removed the instructions for doing an engine flush (in the crankcase) with B12 chemtool. Probably because while effective it could be too harsh and disruptive of lubrication.

So for a very short term flush I would go with Seafoam, and about an hours worth of driving time, and then change the oil.

Otherwise dump in some MMO/Rislone about 500 miles or so before you plan to change the oil

 

[FastSUV]

Originally Posted By: ionbeam22
A few years ago the Berryman company removed the instructions for doing an engine flush (in the crankcase) with B12 chemtool. Probably because while effective it could be too harsh and disruptive of lubrication.

So for a very short term flush I would go with Seafoam, and about an hours worth of driving time, and then change the oil.

Otherwise dump in some MMO/Rislone about 500 miles or so before you plan to change the oil


I agree 100%

I use Rislone (& now MMO) in the crank case...I am considering 1/3 can of seafoam at the end of an OCI but I just would not want to run harsh solvents in the crank case...I have always said that GUNK Motor Flush & B12 are both a terrible thing to use in the crankcase so I use the more "long term" additives like those mentioned above instead..SeaFoam is my "go to" for carbon cleaning but I am just barely comfortable enough to think of trying some in the crankcase as a quick flush.

 

[postjeeprcr]

Originally Posted By: Hethaerto
Originally Posted By: DieselTech
Did you open the engine afterward?



Uh oh, you want me to provide "proof" to you, too?

No proof, other than the engine shot from 2k RPM to 3.5K RPM (and climbing) after ten minutes meaning that some serious sludge had been freed from some important places throughout the engine. At least, that's what I figured was happening.

I had to readjust the throttle to get it back down to 2K RPM, and let it run for another 20 minutes.



That is interesting the rpms went up, what kind of vehicle was this? Did you notice a difference to you, in how the vehicle ran after you put the new oil in after doing the flush?

 

[Hethaerto]

Originally Posted By: postjeeprcr
Originally Posted By: Hethaerto
Originally Posted By: DieselTech
Did you open the engine afterward?



Uh oh, you want me to provide "proof" to you, too?

No proof, other than the engine shot from 2k RPM to 3.5K RPM (and climbing) after ten minutes meaning that some serious sludge had been freed from some important places throughout the engine. At least, that's what I figured was happening.

I had to readjust the throttle to get it back down to 2K RPM, and let it run for another 20 minutes.



That is interesting the rpms went up, what kind of vehicle was this? Did you notice a difference to you, in how the vehicle ran after you put the new oil in after doing the flush?


2002 Volvo XC70. Yes, the engine felt like it had more torque, I guess. Still idled roughly, though, and ran slowly, until I installed the CerMet.

 

[SL8R]

Originally Posted By: Hethaerto
Originally Posted By: postjeeprcr
Originally Posted By: Hethaerto
Originally Posted By: DieselTech
Did you open the engine afterward?



Uh oh, you want me to provide "proof" to you, too?

No proof, other than the engine shot from 2k RPM to 3.5K RPM (and climbing) after ten minutes meaning that some serious sludge had been freed from some important places throughout the engine. At least, that's what I figured was happening.

I had to readjust the throttle to get it back down to 2K RPM, and let it run for another 20 minutes.



That is interesting the rpms went up, what kind of vehicle was this? Did you notice a difference to you, in how the vehicle ran after you put the new oil in after doing the flush?


2002 Volvo XC70. Yes, the engine felt like it had more torque, I guess. Still idled roughly, though, and ran slowly, until I installed the CerMet.


Hethaerto, have you had a look at the list of Technical Notes and Service Bulletins for your XC70? This one appears to exactly correspond to your issues (worn valves):

TNN21-21-2005-08-15 Title: Engine may have a rough idle, DTC ECM misfire codes, rough running or lack of power.
The Customer may have a complaint of a rough idle, rough running, lack of power or the MIL on.
• Read out DTC's
• Check compression and do a leak down test with the engine cold.
• Check valve clearance on the cylinders with low compression.
• Remove the cylinder head and check the condition of the valve face.
• If the valve face is worn, replace ALL the intake valves, even if some look okay.
• Use ONLY intake valves with P/N 30637059.

Further links to TNN lists here:

http://v70r.com/home/defgh1/MiscVolvo/index73.pdf

http://forums.swedespeed.com/zerothread?id=72251

FYI, removing the magnets from the filter on your Trooper (as you mentioned in another post) sounds like a disaster waiting to happen. Assuming that they were actually effective in trapping a large amount of ferrous material, their removal would suddenly release all of that into the filter and the portion that made it past the filter would then be free to scour the rest of your engine.

Cheers,

Jeff

 

[JohnBrowning]

B12 still has instruction on how to dump it into the crank case. They reduced to it to 1/2 a pint but I think that is not really as effective. I always use an entire pint and that is what I recommend to this day. I use B12 around the garage for all kinds of things and I keep a few cans of the spray around for cleaning rifles both blued and stainless and never had a problem. I think I first used B12 in 1991. So I have been using it a while and it was my Grandfather that told me about the stuff. I was trying to clean some valves that had a ton of carbon on them.

 

[JohnBrowning]

Seafoam is really weak it is mostly IP which is fine if you are trying to clean an engine run mostly on Ester Based oils but not for anything else.

 

[Hethaerto]

Jeff,

Thanks for the info and links.

I think you're right that a sudden release of whatever ferrous material the magnets have captured would be a bad idea. Thanks for pointing that out.