What rustproofing (DIY) is good?
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Just wondering about the oil-based products like Krown etc. Don't they attract alot of dirt and grime? When they keep re-applying over the years does the car get powerwashed first, or does the gunk just keep building up? What about inside the doors and stuff, do they stay pretty clean?
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Originally Posted By: Drew2000
Just wondering about the oil-based products like Krown etc. Don't they attract alot of dirt and grime? When they keep re-applying over the years does the car get powerwashed first, or does the gunk just keep building up? What about inside the doors and stuff, do they stay pretty clean?
They hot-wash the cars first.
And no, Krown is not sticky or greasy after it is applied. The oil "carrier" dissipates, leaving the protective coating. Only issue I've ever had is that it continues to creep out of seems through the entire year. You can see it in the picture of my Town Car.
Just wondering about the oil-based products like Krown etc. Don't they attract alot of dirt and grime? When they keep re-applying over the years does the car get powerwashed first, or does the gunk just keep building up? What about inside the doors and stuff, do they stay pretty clean?
They hot-wash the cars first.
And no, Krown is not sticky or greasy after it is applied. The oil "carrier" dissipates, leaving the protective coating. Only issue I've ever had is that it continues to creep out of seems through the entire year. You can see it in the picture of my Town Car.
I haven't seen this stuff for years; not recommened. Notice the Sailfish on the wall when he is spraying the hood. Also, no respirator is worn, must be using only compressed air to make the video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcNP4INYEMI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zcNP4INYEMI
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Just get some Eastwoods Rust Encapsulator Paint and top coat with Chasis black. Spend an afternoon with a couple qts and some aerosol cans of each and paint the floors, frame, brake lines, suspension etc then use Fluid Film in the doors, hatch, rockers and inner frames etc and call it good. no need to waste time every year srewing around re-doing it.
I told a couple of friends who are techs about the Fluid film and they spray down down the underside of their trucks but those coatings make for a filthy environment when you have to go underneath to do anything, but they dont care since they work with lifts. They are amazed at my cars after 10 years and zippo rust underneath when they do the state inspections. Oh, Eastwoods also makes a compund you can spray also for interior panels and have wands you can hook up to your compressor.
I told a couple of friends who are techs about the Fluid film and they spray down down the underside of their trucks but those coatings make for a filthy environment when you have to go underneath to do anything, but they dont care since they work with lifts. They are amazed at my cars after 10 years and zippo rust underneath when they do the state inspections. Oh, Eastwoods also makes a compund you can spray also for interior panels and have wands you can hook up to your compressor.
Do you guys know if Krown or other commercial places have the compound HEATED up before it enters the spray gun? Like if applying it in the fall or winter, it would have to go on piping hot so it creeps right?
I can't find it, but didn't someone say on here to heat the rustproof (oil or whatever your using) up in a pot before applying.
I've searched everywhere but can't find the post.
I can't find it, but didn't someone say on here to heat the rustproof (oil or whatever your using) up in a pot before applying.
I've searched everywhere but can't find the post.
Kestas
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The wool grease compounds aren't necessarily heated. The manufacturer indicates that the compound must be thinned with mineral spirits to flow through the gun. The mineral spirits flash off, leaving the rustproof compound behind.
Heating the compound may be difficult or even dangerous, depending on how resourceful the DIYer is. Antoher problem is that the heated compound would cool down in the lines and cause problems until some steady state condition is attained.
Heating the compound may be difficult or even dangerous, depending on how resourceful the DIYer is. Antoher problem is that the heated compound would cool down in the lines and cause problems until some steady state condition is attained.
Texaco Grease is what I used to use for the most part....After that I also found that water based ruberrized under coating designed mostly to deaden sound was also great at keeping rust out. Messy though and used to come in gallon cans so you had to brush it on. Very tar like for the first day or two until it completely cures.
I never did the door panels because the to be honest the Toyota stuff that they used at the factory was great on the interior of the pannels it was just the underside of the vechile that was for the most part unprotected.
I never did the door panels because the to be honest the Toyota stuff that they used at the factory was great on the interior of the pannels it was just the underside of the vechile that was for the most part unprotected.
I use rustoleum rubberized undercoating. $3.94 a spray can at Walmart. Easy to use and is very durable. No gun needed. 8-10 cans will do a car the size of a 4 Runner. I haven't had a rust through in any car in over 20 years. But the underside gets rusty here in salt land. So I just spray it once good when the vehicle is new and that is all.
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Problem with the rubber stuff is it can rust underneath, but the coating still looks in tact.
This is what is happening on mine from the dealer applied stuff when it was new 16 yrs ago. Plus in the wheel well, I started peeling off that rubber/plastic coating and it's rusting right through.
This is what is happening on mine from the dealer applied stuff when it was new 16 yrs ago. Plus in the wheel well, I started peeling off that rubber/plastic coating and it's rusting right through.
I really like the dealer or professionaly applied type rustproofing. It's like truck bed liner coating. The only thing that I don't like is the lousey job being done by the person spraying the stuff on. They always miss the wheel well lip in the rear plus they do a poor job on the rocker panels. The product is what I like but, the installers need to do a better job!
Originally Posted By: Char Baby
I really like the dealer or professionaly applied type rustproofing. It's like truck bed liner coating. The only thing that I don't like is the lousey job being done by the person spraying the stuff on. They always miss the wheel well lip in the rear plus they do a poor job on the rocker panels. The product is what I like but, the installers need to do a better job!
I used to install that stuff for car dealerships mostly. It was actually a tar product, we always used a product produced by Quaker State. In cold weather I had to mix diesel in or it could not be pumped through the gun. I never shot a rocker panel, the product was to be applied inside of the body seams and wheel wells. On some models the wheel wells are pointless since I was spraying tar onto a plastic liner. To apply the product to a wheel lip you would have to do that by hand which is very messy and time consuming, its also not a very professional finish. The wheel lips where never applied unless a specific request was made. That happened once in all the years I worked there. Since it was a tar product it also stayed exactly where it was applied it would not migrate at all. Krown and Fluid Film will migrate and spread across the metal to cover every inch of the car. The only down side to Krown of Fluid Film is it needs to be re-applied every year for maximum protection.
The textured black in the upper right of this pic of Stevies is the product I applied from the looks of it. His entire santa fe is painted silver, bottom included, the black is the undercoat product that is applied after paint. Allot of auto manufacturers are undercoating the cars like this before they leave the factory but the dealerships are still trying to sell it to you in a protection kit even though its already on the car whether you pay for the kit or not. I did not buy the protection package on my car but it is still undercoated just the same.
For those in the U.S. that cannot obtain Krown, Fluid Film has a kit so you can undercoat your own car for less then $100 and it includes the gun to apply it. Actually they give you enough product for 2 normal sized sedans easily.
Fluid Film Kit #2
I also want to add that the undercoating applied by the auto manufacturers appears to be a bit different. For 1 its harder then the tar product would be once full cured and the texture is different. An easy test is to take any kind of petroleum solvent to it, if it comes off easily then its a petroleum based product. Gas, diesel, laquer thinner all worked for removing the undercoating I applied. Thinner obviously worked better then gas or diesel, acetone or xylene better still but you don't want to rub acetone on a new car so laquer thinner was the harshest I ever used.
I really like the dealer or professionaly applied type rustproofing. It's like truck bed liner coating. The only thing that I don't like is the lousey job being done by the person spraying the stuff on. They always miss the wheel well lip in the rear plus they do a poor job on the rocker panels. The product is what I like but, the installers need to do a better job!
I used to install that stuff for car dealerships mostly. It was actually a tar product, we always used a product produced by Quaker State. In cold weather I had to mix diesel in or it could not be pumped through the gun. I never shot a rocker panel, the product was to be applied inside of the body seams and wheel wells. On some models the wheel wells are pointless since I was spraying tar onto a plastic liner. To apply the product to a wheel lip you would have to do that by hand which is very messy and time consuming, its also not a very professional finish. The wheel lips where never applied unless a specific request was made. That happened once in all the years I worked there. Since it was a tar product it also stayed exactly where it was applied it would not migrate at all. Krown and Fluid Film will migrate and spread across the metal to cover every inch of the car. The only down side to Krown of Fluid Film is it needs to be re-applied every year for maximum protection.
The textured black in the upper right of this pic of Stevies is the product I applied from the looks of it. His entire santa fe is painted silver, bottom included, the black is the undercoat product that is applied after paint. Allot of auto manufacturers are undercoating the cars like this before they leave the factory but the dealerships are still trying to sell it to you in a protection kit even though its already on the car whether you pay for the kit or not. I did not buy the protection package on my car but it is still undercoated just the same.
For those in the U.S. that cannot obtain Krown, Fluid Film has a kit so you can undercoat your own car for less then $100 and it includes the gun to apply it. Actually they give you enough product for 2 normal sized sedans easily.
Fluid Film Kit #2
I also want to add that the undercoating applied by the auto manufacturers appears to be a bit different. For 1 its harder then the tar product would be once full cured and the texture is different. An easy test is to take any kind of petroleum solvent to it, if it comes off easily then its a petroleum based product. Gas, diesel, laquer thinner all worked for removing the undercoating I applied. Thinner obviously worked better then gas or diesel, acetone or xylene better still but you don't want to rub acetone on a new car so laquer thinner was the harshest I ever used.
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Guys, for car's boot anti rust application, would WD40 good enough from curing the rust from spreading? my cars showing some sign of rust after driven for 16 years...
Might as well spray kerosene on the underside of your car as spray WD-40. Also would more than likely wash off with the first rain. Not knowing whats available in your part of the world a mixture of grease, motor oil, and paint thinner, thinned to a consistany to spray thru a pump up garden sprayer should be a big help to you. Other than that I'd use a google search to find out what is available in your part of the world.
I wouldn't spray WD-40. It's 50% stoddard solvent and will strip the film from your car and leave it bare to rust in short time. My experiment worked last night. I took 1L of SuperTech 5W30 and combined 75% of 1 cartridge of Marine MP Grease, and heated it in a tea kettle bought at Walmart. I put it on a low heat setting and heated it up slowly for about 20-30 min, until it started slowly bubbling. It was REALLY hot. It sprays really fast out the undercoating gun when it's this hot, because it's like water consistency.
It was the only way I could get the grease to mix with the oil. Some of it didn't melt, maybe if I use a grease with a lower melting point.
I can certainly see areas where the grease shot out the gun with the oil, it stuck to the metal like a glob, but creeped then settled.
It was the only way I could get the grease to mix with the oil. Some of it didn't melt, maybe if I use a grease with a lower melting point.
I can certainly see areas where the grease shot out the gun with the oil, it stuck to the metal like a glob, but creeped then settled.
Originally Posted By: happyguy007
Guys, for car's boot anti rust application, would WD40 good enough from curing the rust from spreading? my cars showing some sign of rust after driven for 16 years...
Inside the boot or underneath? Obiviously we are not going to use the same product on the inside as we would underneath the car. As mentioned WD40 is not a good corrosion preventative, its only 25% oil, 75% is VOC that will evaporate. If you are talking inside the boot I would sand, primer and then paint. External I would use a product containing a non dropping oil. In a pinch you could use engine oil or gear oil.
Guys, for car's boot anti rust application, would WD40 good enough from curing the rust from spreading? my cars showing some sign of rust after driven for 16 years...
Inside the boot or underneath? Obiviously we are not going to use the same product on the inside as we would underneath the car. As mentioned WD40 is not a good corrosion preventative, its only 25% oil, 75% is VOC that will evaporate. If you are talking inside the boot I would sand, primer and then paint. External I would use a product containing a non dropping oil. In a pinch you could use engine oil or gear oil.
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