Lube for open ended lug nuts.

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I recently won some very nice Kics R40 Neo-Chrome titanium nitride coated lug nuts and am worried about the elements rusting the threads. I do not use anti seize or oil on my lugs but would like to prevent corrosion. How would spraying them monthly with something like Amsoil silicone spray work?


http://i33.tinypic.com/6p6s68.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
I don't think you should worry about it unless Las Vegas is starting to salt roads.



I spend a lot of time in the local mountains during the winter season.
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
The Silicone spray is a little light. Maybe try a little MP. HDMP would be on the heavy side, but would work great.



I have both, I will give MP a shot! Thanks Pabs.
 
My local Chevy dealer always used tranny fluid. Actually, it worked extremely well here in the salty winters of PA. I always follwed that practice and have never had a corrosion problem or a lug nut that lost torque.
 
If you use any lubricant I would suggest backing off the torque a little and maybe check your lug nut torque every once in awhile.

I read a study in I believe Motor Magazine? It said the clamping force that was actually happening was much more than shown on the torque wrench, so be careful. The test showed anti-sieze, oil and a few other lubes. I was shocked by that study.

The problem with lubes is the lubricant takes away the friction on the wheel to nut interface and also the friction on the threads. Which is what absolutely keeps everything from ever having a chance back off. You will probably not have a problem, but there are risk with going against what MFGs recommend.


Below is off an engineering board: Here is the full link:http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=229718&page=1

just consider, if the torque is the same for dry verses well lubricated, the clamping force will be over double. you then need to consider the ductility of the wheel material. I measured yield with only a 20% increase in bolt force for alloy

then in the other vain, if the clamping force is maintained the same, then the required torque would be less than half and would result in reduction of the friction preventing the nuts to loosen.

you could safety wire the lugs to prevent backing off if you want to lube
 
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Are you applying this while the lug nuts are on the vehicle? To the inside hole, I guess? It's not going to penetrate down all the threads. All I would worry about with monthly oil application is how much brake dust you'll attract.
 
Originally Posted By: oilboy123
If you use any lubricant I would suggest backing off the torque a little and maybe check your lug nut torque every once in awhile.

I read a study in I believe Motor Magazine? It said the clamping force that was actually happening was much more than shown on the torque wrench, so be careful. The test showed anti-sieze, oil and a few other lubes. I was shocked by that study.

The problem with lubes is the lubricant takes away the friction on the wheel to nut interface and also the friction on the threads. Which is what absolutely keeps everything from ever having a chance back off. You will probably not have a problem, but there are risk with going against what MFGs recommend.


Below is off an engineering board: Here is the full link:http://www.eng-tips.com/viewthread.cfm?qid=229718&page=1

just consider, if the torque is the same for dry verses well lubricated, the clamping force will be over double. you then need to consider the ductility of the wheel material. I measured yield with only a 20% increase in bolt force for alloy

then in the other vain, if the clamping force is maintained the same, then the required torque would be less than half and would result in reduction of the friction preventing the nuts to loosen.

you could safety wire the lugs to prevent backing off if you want to lube


There is the reason I do not use lubricants on most threads. Torque and tension are not the same thing.
 
Better to run lug nuts that totally cover the studs with a closed end and/or hub caps.

My area has 4 to 5 months of winter with lots of salt.

A friend of mine had a flat tire while out in the bush 4Xing. It took him several hours to change the tire due to corroded wheel studs on his F250. He installed aftermarket lug nuts that covered the studs shortly after this experience.

My Toyota has standard open lug nuts but, with hub caps and changing out snow tires spring and fall, corrosion doesn't seem to be a problem.
 
I really don't care to just get rid of $250 lug nuts.... Besides, I have extended ARP studs to go in, and no closed lugs fit with the studs in this application.
 
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