ARX & Aluminum Engines

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Originally Posted By: Trajan
I'm waiting for the next oil change to do the ARX run. If I remember to, I'll take a pic of the filter to see what the MMO left in it.


You'll probably end up with a clean engine. The MMO will get you off to a good start, and the A-Rx will probably deliver the knock out blow! JMO
 
From what a lot of guys have told me who used MMO with A-Rx they found it worked best in the rinse phase. If I were to do it I would add the MMO in the rinse phase.
 
According to the MMO people MMO is harmless to all seal materials in modern engines, so I don't think there'd be any problems. Many guys have mentioned doing exactly what I've mentioned here to get a better clean up and attack varnish. They've also mentioned using Neutra in place of MMO during the A-rX rinse.
 
I'm planning on a long clean/rinse cycle with the Pennzoil 5w-40 Euro that sprintman was telling me about.
 
Originally Posted By: ADFD1
From what a lot of guys have told me who used MMO with A-Rx they found it worked best in the rinse phase. If I were to do it I would add the MMO in the rinse phase.


I have a few friends whom I sold some arx to who are adding MMO in the Rinse Phase, one guy did a Clean and Rinse with arx, followed by another Clean Phase, on his 2nd Rinse Phase he added 25% of his oil volume with MMO and he reported back that his oil on the 2nd Rinse Phase came out darker than the 1st Rinse Phase that did not have MMO in there. I asked him if MMO made any of his seals leak, and he said NO.
 
Originally Posted By: sprintman
I was taught in the military 'one thing at a time'. I follow that to the letter.


The nice thing about this board is that everyone does there own thing, and if something works, it just works.

I did arx for 24,000 miles and then saw results with another product added to the arx mix and by itself, many people now are trying different oil additives or just no oil additives at all.
 
Originally Posted By: BoiseRob
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
The problem with Nutra 131 is that is not recomend on the label to ad to engine oil number one. Number 2 it is a Hazmat item where Auto-Rx is not a hazmat item and does not need Hazmat shipping.3 Theiris no documentation that N131 which I used to use actual does anything when added to oil.

Now LC20 has nice documentation from Terry that is on their site but not anything like Auto-Rx I do not know of any oil additive as well documented with photo's as Auto-Rx.


JB,

If you read the TDS you will see that it can be used in an engine mixed with the oil...

Rob


TD-131 Neutra Fuel Stabilizer

EQUIPMENT PURGE
Neutra Fuel Stabilizer can be used as a flushing fluid
to purge and remove equipment of
varnish and carbon deposits that may have built up over time.
Gas and Diesel Engines, Fluid Powered Transmissions, Differentials
Use one ounce to every quart of engine oil. Run the engine for 500 miles or for 4 to 12 hours
prior to change out.


You can see for your self at...

http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/131.pdf


I found it very interesting that Neutra has a Pour Point of almost -60 degrees. It also seems that Neutra when used in an engine does some of the same things as MMO, it will be interesting to hear back from panthermike who said he was going to run Neutra in his oil 1000 miles before his OCI.
 
I have done, as may guess, taken cars with gunked up engines and cleaned them up. It takes work and most people want an instant solution, something a bit risky in this kind of work. I used solvents and MMO until I found ARX. I gotta tell 'ya that ARX is the way to go if you have a bit of an investment in that car.

Here is one major thing that makes ARX my choice. It's not having to guess how much solvent to use and putting your hand on the filter to see if it still gets warm and wondering what other places that solvent is going or where it settles after a shut down and wondering if it can lubricate that lifter or cam face until the oil shows up because your engine cleaning solution is not exactly engine oil. No, what I like about ARX is that you can completely screw up the dose, leave it in too long, forget about it, lose access to the car for a long period of time while the driver does not come back, and you WILL NOT DAMAGE THE
ENGINE.

Here is why I make this claim. And please do not duplicate what I did. Idiot's do not need company. I put a bottle in my neighbor's wife's car. Their mechanic put a bottle in and the Husband put a bottle in. We all independently loaded this car with ARX. We purchased the car to fix it up and the Wife got the car to drive around. Well, she moved back to her Mother's house a thousand miles away to take care of her Father with cancer. She was there for 10 months and put almost a 500/700 miles a month running errands and going to the Doctor and stuff like that. Before she returned she went to a quick-lube, did an oil change and the car arrived back home to go through a few more oil changes. I think ARX did a great job and did not trash the motor along the way. This happened 3 years ago and she kept the car. It's still doing fine.

We can all argue until we are blue in the face about exactly how much gunk a product will pull out but the argument ends when you talk about protecting your expensive engine. ARX can go into those tiny places very gently, and do its job, and a very good one at that. I have seen nothing that cleans rings and ring groves, lifters and internal timing chains. Sometimes cleaning out an engine and recovering a car to sell is like grand theft auto.
 
Originally Posted By: Paleomonster
I have done, as may guess, taken cars with gunked up engines and cleaned them up. It takes work and most people want an instant solution, something a bit risky in this kind of work. I used solvents and MMO until I found ARX. I gotta tell 'ya that ARX is the way to go if you have a bit of an investment in that car.

Here is one major thing that makes ARX my choice. It's not having to guess how much solvent to use and putting your hand on the filter to see if it still gets warm and wondering what other places that solvent is going or where it settles after a shut down and wondering if it can lubricate that lifter or cam face until the oil shows up because your engine cleaning solution is not exactly engine oil. No, what I like about ARX is that you can completely screw up the dose, leave it in too long, forget about it, lose access to the car for a long period of time while the driver does not come back, and you WILL NOT DAMAGE THE
ENGINE.

Here is why I make this claim. And please do not duplicate what I did. Idiot's do not need company. I put a bottle in my neighbor's wife's car. Their mechanic put a bottle in and the Husband put a bottle in. We all independently loaded this car with ARX. We purchased the car to fix it up and the Wife got the car to drive around. Well, she moved back to her Mother's house a thousand miles away to take care of her Father with cancer. She was there for 10 months and put almost a 500/700 miles a month running errands and going to the Doctor and stuff like that. Before she returned she went to a quick-lube, did an oil change and the car arrived back home to go through a few more oil changes. I think ARX did a great job and did not trash the motor along the way. This happened 3 years ago and she kept the car. It's still doing fine.

We can all argue until we are blue in the face about exactly how much gunk a product will pull out but the argument ends when you talk about protecting your expensive engine. ARX can go into those tiny places very gently, and do its job, and a very good one at that. I have seen nothing that cleans rings and ring groves, lifters and internal timing chains. Sometimes cleaning out an engine and recovering a car to sell is like grand theft auto.



Paleomonster, I enjoyed reading your post, it sounded like someone I know on here who used to post ALL of the time about auto-rx.

So, who am I thinking about at this moment, any guesses.
 
Originally Posted By: c3po
Originally Posted By: Paleomonster
I have done, as may guess, taken cars with gunked up engines and cleaned them up. It takes work and most people want an instant solution, something a bit risky in this kind of work. I used solvents and MMO until I found ARX. I gotta tell 'ya that ARX is the way to go if you have a bit of an investment in that car.

Here is one major thing that makes ARX my choice. It's not having to guess how much solvent to use and putting your hand on the filter to see if it still gets warm and wondering what other places that solvent is going or where it settles after a shut down and wondering if it can lubricate that lifter or cam face until the oil shows up because your engine cleaning solution is not exactly engine oil. No, what I like about ARX is that you can completely screw up the dose, leave it in too long, forget about it, lose access to the car for a long period of time while the driver does not come back, and you WILL NOT DAMAGE THE
ENGINE.

Here is why I make this claim. And please do not duplicate what I did. Idiot's do not need company. I put a bottle in my neighbor's wife's car. Their mechanic put a bottle in and the Husband put a bottle in. We all independently loaded this car with ARX. We purchased the car to fix it up and the Wife got the car to drive around. Well, she moved back to her Mother's house a thousand miles away to take care of her Father with cancer. She was there for 10 months and put almost a 500/700 miles a month running errands and going to the Doctor and stuff like that. Before she returned she went to a quick-lube, did an oil change and the car arrived back home to go through a few more oil changes. I think ARX did a great job and did not trash the motor along the way. This happened 3 years ago and she kept the car. It's still doing fine.

We can all argue until we are blue in the face about exactly how much gunk a product will pull out but the argument ends when you talk about protecting your expensive engine. ARX can go into those tiny places very gently, and do its job, and a very good one at that. I have seen nothing that cleans rings and ring groves, lifters and internal timing chains. Sometimes cleaning out an engine and recovering a car to sell is like grand theft auto.



Paleomonster, I enjoyed reading your post, it sounded like someone I know on here who used to post ALL of the time about auto-rx.

So, who am I thinking about at this moment, any guesses.



Put another shrimp on the barby???
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Amsoil Flush
SargeGTO Offline


Registered: 12/24/06
Posts: 802
Loc: Rio Grande Valley
Well my well loved Dodge R/T 383 Stroker daily driver turned 100,000 miles purring like a kitten. She has been AutoRX'd 3-4 times and a steady diet of top shelf synthetics with a maintenance dose of AutoRX for about the last two years or 50,000 miles ( roughly)....
I got my hands on 6 bottles of the "new" formula Amsoil Engine Flush and thought what the heck...it's the 100,000 mile change....so I drained the Shaeffers 10-30....put a couple of Super Tech filters on my dual remote oil filter mount....poured Castrol 10-30 GTX and a bottle of Amsoil engine flush.....I was surprised to say the least....after the instructions had been followed and the time at idle had passed....I popped the drain plug and I mean the stuff that came out of there was just black as tar....I didn't cut the filter open but they weighed a ton.....I now know that is one clean engine.,....My expectations was there was nothing to clean....man was I ever wrong.....good stuff for sure....for whatever its worth I'll continue my AutoRX regimen but I'll also flush that motor and all my motors once a year with the Amsoil engine flush.....sold me on that stuff .........
 
I'm not surprised, that Amsoil flush is good stuff, especially if you want to clean something up fast. For a little slower cleanup MMO works well too. There's more than one way to skin a cat.
 
Cressida Offline


Registered: 10/16/02
Posts: 227
Loc: Joplin
I've used both Neutra and Auto RX. I tried the ARX to see if it would help stop a small power steering leak that I had. I put a couple ounces in the power steering and ran it for a couple of months and then changed out the power steering fluid. The leak is worse today than it was when I started so I couldn't see any improvement after trying the ARX and I really didn't see much change in fluid color during the time I was using it or in the rinse fluid either.

I've used Neutra in my crankcase, transmission and fuel. I have a very clean (spotless) top end after 200k miles. I don't know how much Neutra gets credit (if any) as I've often used synthetic oils but I'll buy more Neutra and don't believe I'll buy any more ARX.

Should have asked for my money back on the ARX as it didn't work as advertised but I haven't so far. Bottom line is I believe Neutra will perform as well as or better than ARX and is much less expensive when purchased by the gallon or more.


It seems we have someone who believes Neutra will perform as well or better than auto-rx.
 
D-131 Neutra Fuel Stabilizer

EQUIPMENT PURGE
Neutra Fuel Stabilizer can be used as a flushing fluid to purge and remove equipment of
varnish and carbon deposits that may have built up over time.
Gas and Diesel Engines, Fluid Powered Transmissions, Differentials
Use one ounce to every quart of engine oil. Run the engine for 500 miles or for 4 to 12 hours
prior to change out.

You can see for your self at...

http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/131.pdf
 
Originally Posted By: sprintman
Would you put Lucas UCL in your oil?


I would not put Lucas UCL in my oil. Schaeffer's Neutra is different than Lucas UCL.

I got a PM from a member who told me on the back of the bottle of Neutra that it says to use 1 ounce of Neutra to 1 quart of motor oil.
 
Originally Posted By: sprintman
Funny post. Netra from Schaeffers is a fuel addittive. Under no circumstances should it be in oil. Maybe we should all put Lucas UCL in our sump oil too?


Neutra can be added to oil. As far as Lucas is concerned that stays on the shelf in the store where it belongs.
 
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