ARX & Aluminum Engines

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I am thinking if a piston soak with B-12 does not take care of panthermike's oil burning issues then this may lead me to think his engine has some kind of design flaw, I am wondering if this oil burning issue is also causing his engine to be dirty.

I am also wondering if Mobil 1 0W-40 or Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 would help clean some junk out of his piston rings on the oil side, just a thought.
 
I was thinking mechanical issues too. Not sure if he wants to be bothered with spending the time, but once PCV and leaks are ruled out, a look at the stem seals and a compression check is where I would turn next. Or if the car is considered a beater, just live with it.
 
The only other thing panthermike can do is pull off the valve cover and check his PCV baffle, at least with the valve cover off he can check the baffle out and maybe clean it.

If he has a breather hose, then that is something else he may need to check, same thing with the PCV Hose.

I am a big believer on making sure everything is free and clear in the PCV system, if not then there could always be problems, you don't know unless you check these things out.

I have a feeling that a new car is in panthermike's future.
 
M1 0W40 does bugger all cleaning. I'm still cleaning up my BMW w/RX after M1 0W40 all t's life changed every 8,000 kms (5,000 miles). 1/2 way into 2nd clean running it 10,000 kms this time.
 
Is there anyone that can make a summary out of this 'clean out the engine' adventure? Is there anything that has not been poured in the oil fill cap? Have some of these chemicals crossed each other, that is, do we have one chemical removing another and is there any lab work to be seen? Are these chemicals divided into two camps; the scrub brush (ARX), and the hammer and chisel (B12, MMO). I have experience with all these chemicals and problems of oil consumption but not everything at the same time.

I just though I'd ask. This is my first post and after looking through other threads I have no idea of what to expect in a response from long time members. This thread makes a lot of different approaches to several problems and I wonder if there is an answer without a clear question that does not change as the thread moves on.
 
Everyone has their favorite. In the end, you pays your money and you takes your chances.

ARX does what it says it does. Never have heard or seen an engine that died from using it. It does have its detractors, but they've never to my knowledge done a complete tear down both before and after using it. Though they have called for its users to do that......

MMO is has been around since time began, or so it seems. It has its detractors and champions, but again, I have yet to see an engine that died from using it. (We'll find out if mine does.)

MMO is more flexible though. And easier and cheaper to get.
 
Originally Posted By: Trajan
Everyone has their favorite. In the end, you pays your money and you takes your chances.

ARX does what it says it does. Never have heard or seen an engine that died from using it. It does have its detractors, but they've never to my knowledge done a complete tear down both before and after using it. Though they have called for its users to do that......

MMO is has been around since time began, or so it seems. It has its detractors and champions, but again, I have yet to see an engine that died from using it. (We'll find out if mine does.)

MMO is more flexible though. And easier and cheaper to get.



Good luck with your MMO treatment, please report back with your findings.
 
Originally Posted By: Paleomonster
Is there anyone that can make a summary out of this 'clean out the engine' adventure? Is there anything that has not been poured in the oil fill cap? Have some of these chemicals crossed each other, that is, do we have one chemical removing another and is there any lab work to be seen? Are these chemicals divided into two camps; the scrub brush (ARX), and the hammer and chisel (B12, MMO). I have experience with all these chemicals and problems of oil consumption but not everything at the same time.

I just though I'd ask. This is my first post and after looking through other threads I have no idea of what to expect in a response from long time members. This thread makes a lot of different approaches to several problems and I wonder if there is an answer without a clear question that does not change as the thread moves on.


Every oil additive that you use to clean up your engine will probably have some limitations, it depends on how dirty your engine is. Products like B-12, MMO, and Neutra may work faster than arx, it might be a good idea to pop your valve cover off so you can see how clean or dirty your valvetrain is, without taking a look under your valve cover it is all a guessing game.

I would suggest taking some time each day going back through old threads here in the oil additive section to educate yourself on the different oil additives and then you should have a clearer picture of what to expect from these different oil additives.
 
A mechanic/friend at a large repair shop said that stuff like engine flush solvents are good for making the shop money. They pour one of these solvents in an engine and often there is a quick result, often a failure and they can get on with an engine sway or what ever work is required. Over the last few years ARX has never caused a failure. They used it in my wife's Audi A4. The dealer wanted from $6k up and said that driving the car around the block could be the end of the engine. It was slugged up and the oil light and check engine was on. We did an ARX treatment and repeated it. It took a bit of driving and a few oil changes but there is nothing left of the original problem. I was afraid to try a solvent and ARX was just the ticket. The dealer watched the progress while telling me my warranty was at risk for not following their plan to replace the engine. When we were finished he refused to believe what we showed him. They put the camera probe back in the engine and found nothing but clean engine. ARX did exactly what it claimed to do and this is not the first Audi form me. I have since, purchased several slugged up A4's and done this treatment, detailed the car and made some good money. I was planning to use oil analysis to monitor the progress but found that borrowing a fiber optic device to be good enough for me. At times you can not see much of anything happening and at other times the progress is obvious.

Any complaints about ARX. Well the shop sez that it takes a lot of time to go through the cycles and the customer must comply.

The solvents do their work very quickly and often lead to an e failure of some degree. The solvents don't work well with the A4 because to remove the pan is like tearing up the while front end of the car, a real pain. Removing the pan is often required to clean up the oil pickup screen following a solvent.

All this assumes an engine with problems. I see people putting solvents in engines that are fine. They get back some gunky oil from the oil change and are happy that they are doing something good for their car. Then they claim to be an expert on such matters although they would not have a clue when it comes to fixing anything with their own hands.

Since ARX does not attack the very oil that carries it, why would one use a flush? I know. Because they have had their own success in making their engine oil darker and their engine survives.
 
Originally Posted By: AzFireGuy79
Sprintman- Are you implying that MOBIL 1 0w-40 left a bunch of deposits in your motor? Just curious.


+1
35.gif
 
The problem with Nutra 131 is that is not recomend on the label to ad to engine oil number one. Number 2 it is a Hazmat item where Auto-Rx is not a hazmat item and does not need Hazmat shipping.3 Theiris no documentation that N131 which I used to use actual does anything when added to oil.

Now LC20 has nice documentation from Terry that is on their site but not anything like Auto-Rx I do not know of any oil additive as well documented with photo's as Auto-Rx.
 
Originally Posted By: Paleomonster
A mechanic/friend at a large repair shop said that stuff like engine flush solvents are good for making the shop money. They pour one of these solvents in an engine and often there is a quick result, often a failure and they can get on with an engine sway or what ever work is required. Over the last few years ARX has never caused a failure. They used it in my wife's Audi A4. The dealer wanted from $6k up and said that driving the car around the block could be the end of the engine. It was slugged up and the oil light and check engine was on. We did an ARX treatment and repeated it. It took a bit of driving and a few oil changes but there is nothing left of the original problem. I was afraid to try a solvent and ARX was just the ticket. The dealer watched the progress while telling me my warranty was at risk for not following their plan to replace the engine. When we were finished he refused to believe what we showed him. They put the camera probe back in the engine and found nothing but clean engine. ARX did exactly what it claimed to do and this is not the first Audi form me. I have since, purchased several slugged up A4's and done this treatment, detailed the car and made some good money. I was planning to use oil analysis to monitor the progress but found that borrowing a fiber optic device to be good enough for me. At times you can not see much of anything happening and at other times the progress is obvious.

Any complaints about ARX. Well the shop sez that it takes a lot of time to go through the cycles and the customer must comply.

The solvents do their work very quickly and often lead to an e failure of some degree. The solvents don't work well with the A4 because to remove the pan is like tearing up the while front end of the car, a real pain. Removing the pan is often required to clean up the oil pickup screen following a solvent.

All this assumes an engine with problems. I see people putting solvents in engines that are fine. They get back some gunky oil from the oil change and are happy that they are doing something good for their car. Then they claim to be an expert on such matters although they would not have a clue when it comes to fixing anything with their own hands.

Since ARX does not attack the very oil that carries it, why would one use a flush? I know. Because they have had their own success in making their engine oil darker and their engine survives.




Interesting observations, I've also seen first hand how good a job MMO does cleaning neglected engines, some ready for the scrap heap. It also did a pretty impressive job. I guess there's more than one way to skin a cat.

Welcome to Bitog!
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Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: Trajan
Everyone has their favorite. In the end, you pays your money and you takes your chances.

ARX does what it says it does. Never have heard or seen an engine that died from using it. It does have its detractors, but they've never to my knowledge done a complete tear down both before and after using it. Though they have called for its users to do that......

MMO is has been around since time began, or so it seems. It has its detractors and champions, but again, I have yet to see an engine that died from using it. (We'll find out if mine does.)

MMO is more flexible though. And easier and cheaper to get.



Good luck with your MMO treatment, please report back with your findings.


Thanks, but..... I didn't do it for a treatment. Got home, shut it down, and the oil light came up yellow. All I had handy was a qt of MMO, so.......
 
Yes, the synthetic cleaing fallacy is just that. Spend time on 15 worldwide BMW forums as I do and there are numerous horrific pictures of BMW engines run solely on synthetic oil. Some end up as throw away engines. Mine is in 'recovery mode' and has a long way to go.
 
I'm waiting for the next oil change to do the ARX run. If I remember to, I'll take a pic of the filter to see what the MMO left in it.
 
Originally Posted By: JohnBrowning
The problem with Nutra 131 is that is not recomend on the label to ad to engine oil number one. Number 2 it is a Hazmat item where Auto-Rx is not a hazmat item and does not need Hazmat shipping.3 Theiris no documentation that N131 which I used to use actual does anything when added to oil.

Now LC20 has nice documentation from Terry that is on their site but not anything like Auto-Rx I do not know of any oil additive as well documented with photo's as Auto-Rx.


JB,

If you read the TDS you will see that it can be used in an engine mixed with the oil...

Rob


TD-131 Neutra Fuel Stabilizer

EQUIPMENT PURGE
Neutra Fuel Stabilizer can be used as a flushing fluid
to purge and remove equipment of
varnish and carbon deposits that may have built up over time.
Gas and Diesel Engines, Fluid Powered Transmissions, Differentials
Use one ounce to every quart of engine oil. Run the engine for 500 miles or for 4 to 12 hours
prior to change out.


You can see for your self at...

http://www.schaefferoil.com/datapdf/131.pdf
 
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